Slosh Tubz SEMA 2015 Build "BOOSTED BERTHA"

[67cheby]

next step figuring out where to cut and fitting the lower front door brace with the LMC Truck patch panels

[67cheby]

Next step cleaning off the inner rocker panel brace from the cab mount and fitting the inner rocker / floor patch panel also from LMC Truck

[67cheby]

I chose to leave the rear 10 inches or so of my factory rocker since it was in excellent shape and I like to save all the original metal I can ! I also like to cut a panel where it leaves my weld on a bend to keep it cleaner (in my opinion) after trimming your patch panel lay it over the original panel and mark it off to give you an exact pattern to cut out.

Those clamps are the $8 ones from Harbor Freight and I must say I cant believe I haven't had a set until now, they are Awesome !

[67cheby]

Next panel the lower side kick panel. I did have to modify this panel slightly to get it to line up like I liked, and once i get it welded in solid i will be using a step bit to align all the bolt holes exactly.

[67cheby]

That is all at the moment, more to come. I did the drivers side New Years Day and it took me 6 1/2 hours , this side has gone much faster once you figure out what your doing it goes pretty quick. The Harbor Freight clamps give you the perfect welding gap and once it is ground down you have a nice flat butt panel connection, i will post some finished pictures on Monday.
Once again thank you LMC Truck for your support !

[jlsanborn]

Nice work Mike. Making it look easy!

[67cheby]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Nice work Mike. Making it look easy!

Thanks man, its really not that bad. I have actually been really enjoying it !

[oldman3]

Nice repairs Mike...Jim

[jtp67-72]

Liken' this.....that kind of work is like meditation for me...."frustration" for some....and a good example of why you dont "HAVE TO" use entire patch just because it came that way ....it's not so much original metal as it is the original "FIT"....... and your right .....a little planning ahead and you can minimize the weld pattern that is seen........jim

[67cheby]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Nice repairs Mike...Jim

Thank you !

Originally Posted by jtp67-72

Liken' this.....that kind of work is like meditation for me...."frustration" for some....and a good example of why you dont "HAVE TO" use entire patch just because it came that way ....it's not so much original metal as it is the original "FIT"....... and your right .....a little planning ahead and you can minimize the weld pattern that is seen........jim

Exactly !

[watahyahknow]

there spotweld drill bits available for when you want to save the metal behind the rusted piece

it only cuts the top metal leaving enough fles on the bottom one to weld the new piece on

it takes a little practice to know how deep to drill but other than that there nice tools to have

talking bout tools but not related to sheetmetal ......
i seen this today :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyZEaPQinO0
its expensive but so is a gas rig and its a lot safer too you could basicly do this near a gasleak and nothing would happen unlike when using an open flame , as long as you dont damage the coil it will keep going too ans not run out of gas

[duallyjams]

Huh you made it look like a 15 min episode the slosh tubz channel.

[clemdaddy]

nice work man... you got it going on.
got a few pass-side fenders to look at. and the wing to return... lets hook up this week, if not tomorrow.

[jkeating1]

In post #327--how did you know where the factory spot welds were? I doesn't look like they were still visible on the surface.

[sduckworth13]

Metal work is looking great Mike.

[watahyahknow]

Originally Posted by jkeating1

In post #327--how did you know where the factory spot welds were? I doesn't look like they were still visible on the surface.

you can make a quick pass over the surface with the grinder or a piece of sandaper and see te dimples the spotwelds leave behind on non mediablasted steel
when the material is blasted you just see them

it might be the lighting doesnt make the dimples show up
or they whent a little thick on the primer
usually there pretty clear te see

[BigDaddyV]

Very nice progress Mike! Keep it up. I'm hopefully gonna get started on my cab soon.

[67cheby]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

there spotweld drill bits available for when you want to save the metal behind the rusted piece

it only cuts the top metal leaving enough fles on the bottom one to weld the new piece on

it takes a little practice to know how deep to drill but other than that there nice tools to have

talking bout tools but not related to sheetmetal ......
i seen this today :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MyZEaPQinO0
its expensive but so is a gas rig and its a lot safer too you could basicly do this near a gasleak and nothing would happen unlike when using an open flame , as long as you dont damage the coil it will keep going too ans not run out of gas

those are sweet !

Originally Posted by duallyjams

Huh you made it look like a 15 min episode the slosh tubz channel.

LOL...16 hours start to finish on all the floor work !

Originally Posted by clemdaddy

nice work man... you got it going on.
got a few pass-side fenders to look at. and the wing to return... lets hook up this week, if not tomorrow.

Thanks for all the help Clem !

Originally Posted by jkeating1

In post #327--how did you know where the factory spot welds were? I doesn't look like they were still visible on the surface.

run a grinder over the top and it will expose the low spots that are the spot welds !

Originally Posted by sduckworth13

Metal work is looking great Mike.

thanks man !

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

you can make a quick pass over the surface with the grinder or a piece of sandaper and see te dimples the spotwelds leave behind on non mediablasted steel
when the material is blasted you just see them

it might be the lighting doesnt make the dimples show up
or they whent a little thick on the primer
usually there pretty clear te see

Exactly !

Originally Posted by BigDaddyV

Very nice progress Mike! Keep it up. I'm hopefully gonna get started on my cab soon.

Go Big Daddy !

[67cheby]

Ok well here is the second set of pics.

Metal finished the floor welds.
Welded in the LMC Truck side kick panel bottoms
bolted the outer bottom of the LMC Truck A pillar back on and welded it in

[MaximilianKimlin]

Nice build man! I'm following you in Instagram. That sheet metal work is top notch!

[67cheby]

Next up fitting the LMC TRUCK replacement rocker panels.

First since I used the rear of the stock rocker and I wanted to get an exact fit, I cut the rocker a 1/2 inch or so long.

Then Layed the rocker over the existing rocker and marked it for an exact cut

Cut the rocker and now it is ready for final weld in

[67cheby]

Next up the front part of the High hump sent all the way from Germany from my friend Patrick Koch , Thank you Patrick !

First step drilling holes around the edge to plug weld

Marking the holes on the cab side

Grinding off the epoxy so the weld will take

Weld it in and smooth off the welds !

[67cheby]

That leaves one last step on my floor repairs the hole in the high hump needs filled.

Cut out a patch panel

Weld it in and smooth it off !

Also welded up the gas neck, a little hammer and dolly work and she should be good to go !

[67cheby]

Here are a few shots of the whole floor after I finished with all the LMC Truck patch panels !

[Elliot949]

Awesome Work Mike... are you sure you don't want to do the finish work on "Class Act"???...