Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics

[Woodbutcher]

Wow, things are looking good, Orrie. The dash is great - just don't do your make up in it's reflection on your way to your favorite camping spot! I have to admit, seeing your progress makesme a little green. I have so far to go on my '56. Keep the pics coming.

[OrrieG]

Cut and polished the interior paint, looks great. A few boo boos but only one I'm going to fix, rest I can live with. I missed some pinholes in the plastic on the glove box lid so that will get fixed and repainted. Also got the HEI distributor and plug wiring in. Mufflers are on the way from of all places Amazon, they were $4 cheaper than Jegs and Summitt and came with free shipping since total was over $100.

Sunday installed the wiper motor and made sure it worked. Will need new knobs, old ones look pretty bad according to Ms. Joan. Also painted the door hinges and some other small parts.

[bajabob]

OrrieG
Your project is looking great thanks for the update to help us slowpokes along... Just went out and made a list of all the things I need to get going on and highlighted the stuff I can do without spendin any $$$$.

What size rims and tires did you go with ???

bb

nice shot of your helper....

[OrrieG]

Thanks. For now the steel 16's that are on it. In the future upgrading to 17 or 18 alloy wheels. Last fall and winter I worked on cleaning stuff, sure makes it nice now, just go to the tub, unwrap and install. Now that the cab is on the frame I have room to bring my wood stove back in for heat to take the chill off.

[bajabob]

I might have missed it but what did you paint your axles with ??? I just reread your comments about the frame paint and I am a little concerned about my axles. I painted mine with POR and they turned out great. I did not over coat them and now I am concerned that the gloss black will fade to gray ???

[OrrieG]

Rattle can Rustoleum primer, Rustoleum rattle can Semi Black (3-4 coats), then I hit it with the frame paint. I figure they will get the most wear, but are also the easiest to touch up. They did not have any rust. For now budget means the differential covers will stay black, later I want to get some fined aluminum covers.

[bajabob]

thanks....

[OrrieG]

Big Brown Truck was pulling away when I got home. I explained to the dog he was leaving stuff not stealing it.

[OrrieG]

Went to a sinus specialist today after having chronic sinus infections since March. He did a bunch of test. Only thing I am allergic to is grass. I told the wife that met I could not mow, weed eat or help outside anymore and UNDER DOCTORS ORDERS had to spend my spare time on hard surfaces like the garage. She did not buy it. He did re-stress the importance of proper respirators when working in the shop and around dust when he saw the auto stuff listed as a hobby. He told me a couple of horror stories about what the chemicals and paints can do to lungs. Got some stuff to keep the muffler install moving forward.

[kustombrad]

As a board-certified Hotrodologist, I'm writing you a prescription for a years minimum garage therapy! You could do yard work, but it would really hurt your recovery time. Stay in the garage and get well (and make sure you ALWAYS have a respirator for painting and dust mask for sanding!)

[OrrieG]

Feeling much better today, lungs are clearing out. I always use either a P100 particulate/chemical mask I got from the fire fighters, or 3M mask specifically for paint even when rattle canning or just cleaning with chemicals. I watched my grandmother and mom die of emphsema and am not going that route. Eye and hearing protection are high on my list too. I already suffer from partial hearing loss and tintitus from early racing, power tools and loud music. First thing I do when I change out of my business clothes is to put my ear plugs around my neck so there is no excuse. Full face mask when cutting, grinding, etc. is essential. I took a piece of wood in the cheek before I figured out goggles alone were not good when handling rotary tools.

[sgtusmc]

Originally Posted by kustombrad

as a board-certified hotrodologist, i'm writing you a prescription for a years minimum garage therapy! You could do yard work, but it would really hurt your recovery time. Stay in the garage and get well (and make sure you always have a respirator for painting and dust mask for sanding!)

outstanding!!!

[OrrieG]

I took the Doctors orders and am now muffled.

[Tri5Nerd]

OrrieG,

Do you have enough space for the drive shaft? It looks kinda tight. I've heard good things about those mufflers (Sound wise).

Tri5

[OrrieG]

It looks like it will work ok, with the 4wd transfer case the drive line is about 4" lower than a 2wd. Mufflers are in the same place as before, just 21" long instead of 14" I had before. I will be dropping in the drive line next before I put in the final hangers. It is also looking like I might be able to run them behind the tire or out the back. I am afraid if I just dump them down my pretty aluminum gas tank will turn black pretty fast.

[Tri5Nerd]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

It looks like it will work ok, with the 4wd transfer case the drive line is about 4" lower than a 2wd. Mufflers are in the same place as before, just 21" long instead of 14" I had before. I will be dropping in the drive line next before I put in the final hangers. It is also looking like I might be able to run them behind the tire or out the back. I am afraid if I just dump them down my pretty aluminum gas tank will turn black pretty fast.

If the driveline will hang lower then you should be OK, I have the bullets with my exhaust setup and want to run my pipes to the back but I will need to be very creative to get that to work.

Tri5

[OrrieG]

With your welding skills it will be a piece of cake for you but the narrowed frame does pose a challenge. But like they say if it was easy then everyone would be doing it.

[OrrieG]

Today was one of those when things just seem to take longer because of minor hickups. Decided to replace all the spring zerks because they would not take lube. Putting the last one in and it breaks off. Grab the easyout, it doesn't work. Grab the box of taps and bits. Everyone but the the one I need. So down to the store. Drilled tapped and we are done. Moved on the the ebrake lever install. Cable is 1/4" short of slipping in to the bracket. I know I checked length and made sure it was working. Grab the vice grips and after 20 minutes get it to pull enough to get in. Bolt it down and push the pedal, moves about 2", so it looks like some readjustment may be in order if it doesn't stretch. The release handle is too long, easy fix, cut and butt weld. That goes ok but when I am doing a trial install the plastic handle breaks off. Need to order a new one. Installed the drive line. Last saddle bolt stripped out so I need to get a replacement. I just hate not being able to finish stuff. Did get the muffler bracket support in with out a problem. Drive line has plenty of clearance. Oh, and when I was messing with the spark plug wire routing I notice one of the plugs moved. Check and all were just hand tight. That would have been interesting when I fired it. Must have been asleep that day too. But I found out friday I am allergic to milk and eggs and after only two days without them in my diet am feeling better.

[OrrieG]

In case anyone is wondering why the mufflers are offset the original plan was to run both tailpipes to the passenger side just in front of the fender. Offset would have allowed for pipe offset. But the mufflers grew from 14" length to 20" and plans may change.

[kustombrad]

With the day you were having, you'd have been better off laying in bed all day eating eggs and washing them down with some cold milk!
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[Tri5Nerd]

Look at this way, you got some work done which is somewaht better than getting nothing done, Your driveshaft looks good. From looking at the Ebrake pedal picture, where are you going to cut and weld?

Tri5

[OrrieG]

The cutting and welding was on the release rod that goes from the assembly to just below the dash, it was 4" too long. I have found a new tee handle but it is 9 bucks plus 9.50 shipping. I'm thinking for $18 I can just bend the rod, round off the end and call it good or weld something else cool on the end for a pull like a box end of a old wrench, etc. I'll rummage around in the scrap box and see what I come up with. Actually I just remembered somewhere I have a safety pin for rockets from my Army days, I think it says "Pull to Arm" or something like that, that might be interesting too

[kustombrad]

Most of those rods are 1/4" , throw some 1/4 20 threads on it and go to the hardware store and get a drawer pull. Lots of styles out there.
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[OrrieG]

That is a good idea too.

[xpickup]

OrrieG. Nice build. I like the rocket safety pin. Kinda personalizes it.