The 283 Rebuild Begins

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by jason65

Is the motor already broken in? If not don't forget some break in additive.

No, the motor is a virgin rebuild. What additive and brand?


Put gas in the tank Saturday, but got stuck on basic electrical again, when I went and tried to hook up the 'old school' alternator. The truck came to me with a one-wire, but that was gone when I got her back from being stolen.

All the wiring was hacked up and while getting ready to install and hook up my new NAPA voltage regulator - I happened upon a rusty bird's nest on the front side of the radiator support bulk head. Looking through the grill - down on one knee - I noticed the horn relay and a replacement voltage regulator fastened to the outside wall, adjacent to the grill.

I've never seen anybody do that before. Took the driver's side front pan (for the lack of a better word) off so I could gain access to the area and there were corroded wires running everywhere. The four-lead voltage regulator plug was jumped with two wires - splicing 2 poles to each other, twice.

Guess that was part of the one-wire conversion the previous owner did.

The voltage regulator was just hanging there - with a bunch of nasty rust everywhere. The horn relay was right next to it - and the big red wires and two small leads seemed pretty much stock. Why the guy pulled all these leads through the bulk head and mounted everything on the outside - in the weather - I have no idea.

Very odd.

Going to NAPA after work to get a small spool of heavy-duty red wire (for the battery charging lead), a new horn relay, a new condenser for the V/R, and a set of fastening hardware for the horn relay leads.

[jason65]

Just stop by a machine shop and theyll get you what you need. I forgot what I used. Todays oil doesn't have the zink in it that it used to. The additive will save your cam bearings and lifters during break in.

[4dranch]

Originally Posted by jason65

Just stop by a machine shop and theyll get you what you need. I forgot what I used. Todays oil doesn't have the zink in it that it used to. The additive will save your cam bearings and lifters during break in.

Buddy of mine uses this from CompCams.

Engine Break-In Oil Additive

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by 4dranch

Buddy of mine uses this from CompCams.

Engine Break-In Oil Additive

Outstanding. Good idea.

[jason65]

Mac, did you get your lines and gromits?

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by jason65

Mac, did you get your lines and gromits?

Lines are good - adapter I/D too long - bringing them (2) to the shop this week and machining off about 3/8" in length so tube fitting doesn’t shoulder out too soon - allowing line to still "shake" at radiator port.

Grommet set (6 pieces) due here by Wednesday. Should be a piece-of-cake.

Down to some extremely short strokes now.

Mac.

[Captainfab]

Originally Posted by MacAttack

No, the motor is a virgin rebuild. What additive and brand?

You definitely want to use an oil additive that has Zinc and DTTP for break in and there after with every oil change. If you do not your cam will possibly fail prematurely and will not be covered under warranty. Most parts stores should have it. The one I see here most is Lucas brand.

[jason65]

I'm supprised the machine shop didn't tell him that or try to sell him some. It would have covered there a$$ to.

[4dranch]

Originally Posted by jason65

I'm supprised the machine shop didn't tell him that or try to sell him some. It would have covered there a$$ to.

They must know how Mac works....
The warranty was for 100,000 miles or 1 year which ever came first..

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by 4dranch

They must know how Mac works....

Yeah, well, there is that........

[4dranch]

Originally Posted by MacAttack

Yeah, well, there is that........

Just messing with you Mac, wish I had some of your patience.

[jason65]

Be careful what you ask for. Patience comes threw trials.

[MacAttack]

Between work (hard to ignore any you can come by these days), watching the grandson and only having Saturday morning to work on ‘The Tan’, patience is just about all I’ve got left.

* Wonder if Jay Leno will want to by my truck for his museum collection when it’s finally done?

[jason65]

So your converting back to a generator and putting the mechanical voltage regulator and horn relay back to it's original possition?

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by jason65

So your converting back to a generator and putting the mechanical voltage regulator and horn relay back to it's original possition?

Nah - the relocation part is correct, but it's an externally regulated alternator.

[justcuz]

I would think most shops would slop on plenty of break in grease on the cam lobes to prevent this.
The break in additive is a good idea though.
My oil changes on a new engine are like this.
Run it for at least an hour, or a day.
Change oil and filter.
500 miles, change oil and filter
1000 miles change oil and filter
2000 miles change oil and filter
3000 miles change oil and filter.
I change the oil and filter 5 times on a new engine before the first 3000 miles. This makes sure you get all the metal out of the engine during the break in period.
Then every 3000 miles, change oil and filter.
I use a magnetic drain plug too.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by justcuz

I would think most shops would slop on plenty of break in grease on the cam lobes to prevent this. The break in additive is a good idea though.

Yeah, the engine builder has about 35 years experience - just by himself, not counting the other journeymen in his mid-sized facility (about 20,000 s/f). I'll get my shipment of break-in lube and transmission fluid from Summit tomorrow, so I should be covered.

Even if I was only turning the motor half-a-rotation during the build, pre-oiled the block religiously, making the lubricant ooze out of the pressure fitting at the rear of the block. I should be okay.

Regarding the other intervals listed - I did just about the same routine on the Chevelle's crate motor and it's still running strong after 26 months.

Mac.

[notsolo]

My 283 was rebuilt 32 years ago and I did your exact oil change routine, 2 barrell rochester has been sweet, very few problems, motor is in its 3rd truck. Your truck is looking good...Ed.

Originally Posted by justcuz

I would think most shops would slop on plenty of break in grease on the cam lobes to prevent this.
The break in additive is a good idea though.
My oil changes on a new engine are like this.
Run it for at least an hour, or a day.
Change oil and filter.
500 miles, change oil and filter
1000 miles change oil and filter
2000 miles change oil and filter
3000 miles change oil and filter.
I change the oil and filter 5 times on a new engine before the first 3000 miles. This makes sure you get all the metal out of the engine during the break in period.
Then every 3000 miles, change oil and filter.
I use a magnetic drain plug too.

[jason65]

I'm confused. You had a 1 wire generator that was hooked up to that rats nest and your hooking it all back up like it was supposed to be? I have never seen a 1 wire generator. I've seen and have a 1 wire alternator.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by jason65

I'm confused.

What is going back in my truck is a standard alternator, 63'-70' version, just like I've got on my Chevelle, not a generator.

(I think we're getting mixed up with the terminology regarding the device that's going to recharge the battery.)

The alternator is an old style 3-wire, controlled by an external voltage regulator.

Mac.

[jason65]

Alternators are internaly regulated. Generators are externaly regulated. Thats what I was taught. Both are 3 wire. I just never heard of anyone makeing a gen 1 wire.

[MacAttack]

Originally Posted by jason65

Alternators are internaly regulated. Generators are externaly regulated. Thats what I was taught. Both are 3 wire. I just never heard of anyone makeing a gen 1 wire.

Hmmmmm. Don't know enough about it - It's just the set the guy at NAPA sold me, and it's identical to the stock set-up I have on my 65' Chevelle.

[MacAttack]

Here's the diagram:

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by jason65

Alternators are internaly regulated. Generators are externaly regulated. Thats what I was taught. Both are 3 wire. I just never heard of anyone makeing a gen 1 wire.

The alternators in the 60's cars were externally regulated; is it a terminology thing? My 69 Chevelle had the regulator on the core support and it would stick and Id have to smack it hard with a screw driver handle. The dash lites would get REALLY brite for while.....but it was called an 'alternator'.

[justcuz]

Lately I have been finding the magnetic drain plugs have been made out of poor quality metal and the threads wear out and don't stay tight. On some of my stuff I have gone back to a standard drain plug (the originals I have saved) and stick a rare earth magnet on the end of the oil filter. Harbor Frieght has them on sale occasionally so I bought them. Radio Shack has them too. Now I don't worry about the fine metal particles on the end of the plug, they are stuck inside the filter!
Mac you may want to use the break in additive for the first 1000 miles, just to be sure the cam breaks in good. Newer oils have had the Zinc additive ZDDP reduced because of pollution concerns. The zinc is what helped create the protective friction coating on metal to metal parts. They used to say to use diesel oil, but now that has the ZDDP reduced in it as well. I have been experimenting with different stuff but I would guess that any other lubricant that is not subject to combustion would still have higher levels of ZDDP in it, like ATF and gear oil.
I added some Marvel Mystery oil to my old 93 Chevy truck during the last oil change. I only added about 8 ounces, so I am not sure it did any good.