1949 Chevy 3600 into a daily driver

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Luther Grimace

What did you do about the steering to prevent bumpsteer? Is that something that Sid take care of with the steering arms?

Yes, Sid modifies the steering arm to take care of bump steer.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by 1-ton of fun

i was about to box mine, and thought about just drilling holes in the bottom of the frame that line up with the ones on the top. then i can use really long carriage bolts and the nut will be just under the frame, easy to access.

That is a good point. 7" carriage bolts would do it I bet.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Coach,

Another question as I consider if I'll end up using the original straight axle vs. IFS.

How tight/loose is your steering?

I ask because on my truck you have to sort of steer left and right (constant correction)to stay straight! I assume the new kingpins, tie rods, corrected steering arms tighten things up a bunch, BUT did you do anything with the steering box? Will you? Is a power steering conversion in your future?

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Coach,

Another question as I consider if I'll end up using the original straight axle vs. IFS.

How tight/loose is your steering?

I ask because on my truck you have to sort of steer left and right (constant correction)to stay straight! I assume the new kingpins, tie rods, corrected steering arms tighten things up a bunch, BUT did you do anything with the steering box? Will you? Is a power steering conversion in your future?

I plan on tightening up the adjustment, but there is not an abundance of slack at this point.

From the steering box to the hubs everything is brand new. All new ball joints on the drag link, on the steering arms and new bearings in the hub. Better than new by far!!

Power steering? Maybe.......a big maybe. I wanna put some miles on it first before I make the decision.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Ok so with new bits you're NOT doing the "active steering" I'm having to do on my old beast?
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[Coach529]

I really have no idea how it steers yet.......thing has not been past the end of my 50' driveway yet!!

[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Ok so with new bits you're NOT doing the "active steering" I'm having to do on my old beast?
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Dan,
I just did the same conversion on the Burb and had "super sloppy, think I need a new steering box" feeling went completely away. The new design tie rods, modified arms, tapered bearings take all of the slop out ( assuming your box isn't shot or in need of adjustment) and it drives like a new truck, especially after getting the new wheels and tires on yesterday.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Thanks. You know what? After Coach replied as he did I realized I was mixing up his suspension build with yours. I came back just now to ask YOU how your Burb was "slop-wise"?

I've got very little concern about ride comfort of the straight axle if the bump steer issue has been addressed, and with Posie's OR the Teflon (or whatever it is) between the leafs. But I admit to hating the loosey-goosey steering I have/had on my old '57.

Do you plan on adding power steering? I ask because it would be easier to drive and also update the steering box. Something I figured probably HAD to be done to totally eliminate slop.

I'm VERY glad to hear yours is tight as is. It's another hash mark on the score card in favor of the original suspension!
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[H.I.]

Dan - I also did a 3" dropped axle from Sid using the new steering arms and new kingpins, tie rods, etc. I will attest to the huge improvement as Fisher said. However, I think it still need to adjust my steering box. There is one position that it seems to get loose. I've got another original steering box and column but I rather not have to pull mine out if I can avoid it. I've read the owners manual and it seems simply enough to adjust but just one of those I've never gotten to it deals.

But I could not believe how much better my truck drove after the dropped axle and steering component replacement.
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[NEWFISHER]

I was worried about excessive muscle to turn the new 215/75/15 radials and am very surprised. i don't think they changed the effort at all. You must run a drag link ( pitman to left steer arm) length measurement longer than 12 1/4 inches when you set up Sid's system. I had originally shortened it up, installed eveything, aligned it and was kind of dissapointed in the effort it took to steer it. I had bought different shims, re-evaluated the install and called Sid. He walked me through the entire install over the phone when he was on the road to a show and had time to talk. After about an hour, he says " did you shorted your drag link"? After playing with the link a couple times and hitting the swwet spot, it steers like a million bucks. I am a big fan of Sid and his COMPLETE system

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

I am a big fan of Sid and his COMPLETE system

For sure.....the guy is awesome!!

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

I was worried about excessive muscle to turn the new 215/75/15 radials and am very surprised. i don't think they changed the effort at all. You must run a drag link ( pitman to left steer arm) length measurement longer than 12 1/4 inches when you set up Sid's system. I had originally shortened it up, installed eveything, aligned it and was kind of dissapointed in the effort it took to steer it. I had bought different shims, re-evaluated the install and called Sid. He walked me through the entire install over the phone when he was on the road to a show and had time to talk. After about an hour, he says " did you shorted your drag link"? After playing with the link a couple times and hitting the swwet spot, it steers like a million bucks. I am a big fan of Sid and his COMPLETE system

To be honest, I'm not sure I understand everything you said. BUT, what I DID understand is that everyone is happy with Sid and his system. I also understand that with his assistance I will be able to get the original suspension and steering to operate probably better than new.

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

Dan,
I just did the same conversion on the Burb and had "super sloppy, think I need a new steering box" feeling went completely away. The new design tie rods, modified arms, tapered bearings take all of the slop out ( assuming your box isn't shot or in need of adjustment) and it drives like a new truck, especially after getting the new wheels and tires on yesterday.

How big of difference between the old pie crusts to the current tire?

[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by Coach529

How big of difference between the old pie crusts to the current tire?

A very solid feel I believe from a modern radial sidewall. Smoother all around until you get up to speed and a pesky right front wheel with too much run out comes into play. 3 times, 2 shops to balence and going to be 1 more call to Wheelsmiths wheels about anouther promlem...grrrrr

Hows your project comming? we need some of those cool pics and updates!

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

A very solid feel I believe from a modern radial sidewall. Smoother all around until you get up to speed and a pesky right front wheel with too much run out comes into play. 3 times, 2 shops to balence and going to be 1 more call to Wheelsmiths wheels about anouther promlem...grrrrr

Hows your project comming? we need some of those cool pics and updates!

How much run out on the bad wheel?

[Coach529]

Sorry....updates have been slow. There has been very little progress lately, and nothing worth photographing!!

Floor pans are repair. The rust was not horrible so I just used some galv 18 gauge I had left over from some other projects. After I figure out the new hole in the floor for the dual master cylinder, I will peal and seal the floor and install the mat Newfisher sent me........

The headliner was shot and removed last summer. The left over insulation and glue has been now removed after a messy hour ordeal with a wire wheel on a 4-1/2" grinder. Now ready to install peal and seal and eventually figure out something for a headliner.

My residual pressure valves showed up yesterday......so I may start on the brakes this weekend. Maybe........

[NEWFISHER]

Originally Posted by Coach529

How much run out on the bad wheel?

Enough that 2 different shops trying 3 times to balence have given me a reciept that warns me " can not balence right front wheel due to excessive runout".

Glad to hear the mat made it and you are still at it. Are you running new brake lines aand then reinstalling the bed? I'm waitining for "Henry with his pants on " shot
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[Coach529]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

Enough that 2 different shops trying 3 times to balence have given me a reciept that warns me " can not balence right front wheel due to excessive runout".

Glad to hear the mat made it and you are still at it. Are you running new brake lines aand then reinstalling the bed? I'm waitining for "Henry with his pants on " shot
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That sucks.

Yes the mat made it. Thanks a bunch!!

Yea new brake lines. Then clean, degrease and paint frame. Figure out bed mounts and install the bed.

Then interior, lights and Drive!!!!

[mechanixman]

I'm a little late to the party, but for others that haven't boxed their frame yet, why not weld washers inside the frame?
The only problem I can come up with, is that you can't fit a lock washer in between the washer and the frame, but to fix that, you could just weld a lock nut on instead.

Originally Posted by Coach529

Not proud of the some of the welds.....but they are strong. Hopefully they will never see the light of day again!!

Is there any reason the piece you made to notch the frame sticks out past the boxing plate?

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

I'm a little late to the party, but for others that haven't boxed their frame yet, why not weld washers inside the frame?
The only problem I can come up with, is that you can't fit a lock washer in between the washer and the frame, but to fix that, you could just weld a lock nut on instead.



Is there any reason the piece you made to notch the frame sticks out past the boxing plate?

I do not understand what you are trying to explain with the washers.

Notch is made out of 4" wide flat strap. I saw no need to trim it down any.

The extra width will come in handy when I mount some bump stops.

[Midgets50]

just read your whole build thread and your doing a great job on henry. I think what he is asking btw is that why not using a lock nut instead of welding a normal nut and then using a lockwasher when you use the bolt. i dont think this applies to you. i think he is just asking in general because he has not boxed his frame yet. but thats just the way i took it

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by mechanixman

...Is there any reason the piece you made to notch the frame sticks out past the boxing plate?

Not to mention he could make the weld down hand instead of an out of position weld. No one will ever see it unless he ever turns it into a show truck.
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[mechanixman]

Originally Posted by Coach529

I do not understand what you are trying to explain with the washers.

Well instead of making access panels, so you can hold a washer/nut combo inside the frame while you thread the bolt from the outside, weld the nut to the inside of the frame. (Kind of like using a tap.) That way, all you need to worry about is threading the bolt on.

[SCHRUMGMC]

Do you Sand-Blast the Frame

[Coach529]

Originally Posted by SCHRUMGMC

Do you Sand-Blast the Frame

No there is very little loose rust. A little wire wheeling, clean and degrease with pressure washer. Then hit it KBS rust blast and then KBS paint.

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/frame-coater-kit.html