57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[FAKKY]

Finished my 6AN lines for the transmisison in/out and cooler.
I like to support ICTBILLET - good prices and customer service






Pressure TEST

Got the upper radiator hose done ....



I grabbed a 1.75->1.5 reducer for the lower radiator ..... need to join the hose.
Anyone know if Cold Mill 1.5" OD tubular steel is ok - or will it rust to quick ?
Paint internal? Get something else ?

[joedoh]

i would be afraid of galvanic corrosion, heated water in dissimilar metals ruins the weaker metal. coolant helps, it has corrosion inhibitors, but its still a problem without an anode of sacrificial metal in there.

the shape you need doesnt look a lot different than the one I use. maybe try it? might be able to get rid of the reducer too.

[FAKKY]

Thanks Joedoh - 1.5" aluminium, should be good then right - since the heads and the thermostat housing are aluminium ?

Didnt get much done today - had a family deal. Just pulled the hydroboost to cut off the pushrod and die thread it to 3/28-24 and attach adjustable linkage. Its still too long and now sort of have

a) too high a brake pedal (still)
b) less travel - borderline interference as it moves into the MC bore.

I think Im going to lengthen the rod side by shortening the actual adjustable adjustable linkage (shiny gray part) by cuttign it in half and redrilling the brake pedal pin.



If that fails .... I'll have to pull the bracket itself and reweld either the pedal offset or the bracket part for the pushrod.

[dsraven]

Dont forget a lock but too.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Dont forget a lock but too.

ds -whats that - assume you mean the locking pin mechanism ?
I was thinking if I cant reuse the stock one I'd probably just end up with a bolt and nut (nylon lock).

Once its attached it cant rotate.

[dsraven]

I mean a lock/jam nut on the threaded shaft so it cant work loose or self adjust. Haven't worked on a htdroboost in a while, but doesnt that rod turn? Not locked in that position, correct?

[FAKKY]

Gothya.
I guess technically it could rotate in the bore housing (the thread part) as its free rotating in the "cup" (ball end), even if the attachment is pinned in.

I'll add a jamb nut or some locktite.

[FAKKY]

new toy arrived today

[FAKKY]

Note to self for future.
Put the fuel tank hose and sending unit ON the tank before assembly ..... will save you having to pull it out from truck and doing it all over again.

[FAKKY]

1st thick TIG weld ..... built me a stabalizer plate for the steering column.

Started off terrbile. Ended up being ok for first go around as it heated up and I got a feel for it.





My steering column I put on some fluid film thinking I might need to touch up every 2 years. Well 6 months and it alreayd has more surface rust than what I want. Is there a good can of clear that will hold up ?

https://www.amazon.com/SprayMax-Glam...2213847&sr=8-4

thoughts ?

[FAKKY]

Pressureized the oil system on side of block with a SBC oil pump.
Jerry Rigged the sensors with a 110v to 12v DC covertor and hit 35psi. Didnt see oil come out of the 1 rocker I could see through the oil cap .... might be just pushrod position.

Checked oil and IM now about 4 quartz overfilled ....... guess Ill drain that and go again and cycle engine.
Getting ready for first start saturday if I can finish the grounds and the coolant system hookup although technically not required.

Not sure my dipstick is going to work with these headers either.

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

If that fails .... I'll have to pull the bracket itself and reweld either the pedal offset or the bracket part for the pushrod.

You should be able to come up with a shorter clevis, it would give you more adjustability and allow extra room for a jam nut.

[FAKKY]

Great minds think a like

"I think Im going to lengthen the rod side by shortening the actual adjustable adjustable linkage (shiny gray part) by cuttign it in half and redrilling the brake pedal pin."

I primed the engine for the 3rd time --- each time hitting 40psi --- but never got oil out of rockers ...... think Im going to call it ok though as its not a new engine so doubt theirs any oil galley alignmnet/feed issues ..... I've heard it can take up to 3 minutes of engine crank before oil feeds.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOUhz6nBfwc


Now to finish off the coolant hoses ....... secure teh transmisison in place with some drilled holes ..... go get some fuel .... check everything over and wire here up dodgy like to start it .......

[dsraven]

did you try turning the engine to a different spot so the lifters would be sitting differently on the cam lobes and possibly oil would then flow through? worth a try?

[FAKKY]

Yep.
Did it 3 times - each time hitting 40 psi. Rotated inbetween ..... same thought.
Not too worried now that I read more on it .... just was hoping to see it

Got the trans bolted in .....
Got the 1.5 lower coupling welded with a lip on each end for coolant ...
Got the Oil pressure sensor swapped out at back to dakota version - just because - claw wrench good here

Now just left to do 3-4 grounds and run power to the fuel tank and get fuel.
Unfortunately Im going to have to wait a bit until I get back from work ...

Ordered a heater line bend to block of the heater lines at thermostat.

slowly ....

[FAKKY]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYetNNmKjYA

[dsraven]

Cool. A little loud for the hired help? Haha
May run better with maf attached. Assume that's not hooked up?

[joedoh]

woop wooooop! way to go!

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Cool. A little loud for the hired help? Haha
May run better with maf attached. Assume that's not hooked up?

Ha ha ... yeah.
No MAF .... and just enough prime on the fuel to check for leaks .... but not powered through start.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

woop wooooop! way to go!

About time.
Now to start reassembly ...... and get the AC finished and wiring complete.

[FAKKY]

So .... came out to truck this morning with about a quart of antifreeze on the ground.
This is the issue ....





Its leaking from the top ---- even through the bolt clamp looks good. Very small drip drip. Obviously the hose in natural alignment is not perfect as it pulls away. But thought it would be fine once clamped down. Its a loose fit with hose also.

Options ?

Was thinking one of

a) Weld a larger "lip" bead right behind
b) try and find a tighter hose
c) new thermostat housing
d) A bunch of gasket maker on the neck.

[FAKKY]

Well I went with what I thouyght was the best option ..... and got a NEW 1.5" piece of tube and recut ..... for a snugger fit before clamping ......
Still coming out of the top ...... and I dont think I can clamp any harder without busting the hose ....

smh.

Need to check its not leaking through the rewelded mousing ...... but I dont see how. I did an light test in dark searching for pinholes .... and "seems" like its comming from the tubing side ... but hard to tell.

[FAKKY]

Well drained it all again ........ light checked again and couldnt see any pin holes ....
and placed the hose lower down on neck .... where its completely circular and not starting to join to housing like in #346 where its higher ..... ...... clamped it all back up and thought I had it fixed ....

But looks like still a leak about a drop every 15 seconds .....

[dsraven]

I would try a hose with less bend or longer at the top so it fits straight on the t stat housing. Also check t stat housing for leak, maybe the prob and not the hose at all. Get it all together and pressure test it at system pressure. What the rad cap says is system pressure.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I would try a hose with less bend or longer at the top so it fits straight on the t stat housing. Also check t stat housing for leak, maybe the prob and not the hose at all. Get it all together and pressure test it at system pressure. What the rad cap says is system pressure.

I took it all apart, tig welded a bigger lip on iot and ground it smooth.... between draining, drying, tig (grinding cause my tig sucks) and reassmbly 2 hours. THOUGHT I had it fixed ... but then about 10 minutes later a small leak .... Im talking about a drop every 10 minutes now.

So I gave it three more turns on the tightening screw and dried it off ...... if that doesnt work ....... think I will need a new thermostat housing and hose .....

Really stunned this has been so hard and I cant figure it out ..... Im as certain as I can be its not the thermostat ..... and coming from the hose through the clamp ....

Might have to go with a 90 of each end and a new hose to get a better angle like you said ....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-LS-Bl....c100677.m4598