Restomod 72 K10 "Good Memories"

[Richard]

Have been picking up a bit to make more room. Installed the front calipers and Yukon hardcore hubs. The clearance of the 18" temp wheels is a little close to the large two piston Ram caliper. 17" wheels are supposed to fit with the 14" rotor setup. Will grab one of the wheels from the shed to check fitment.

[Richard]

Hydroboost and power steering lines made and installed. Power steering cooler is plumbed. Also got the correct fittings for the oil pressure sending unit and installed/wired it. Modified a gauge for the cluster, no more oil in the cab. Will see info on that when I post about the gauge cluster. Waiting on a couple things to finish that up.

[Richard]

Slow at the shop. I took an old glove box door obtained on the forum in and transformed it into a switch panel this week. Painted yesterday and installed today. All locations have a purpose except the the three on the right, they are for future. Never know when you might need to switch something.

Left to right- right PW control, hidden radio, halo lights, compressor on/off, rear locker, front locker, heated seats L/R, hidden radio input, usb-c and usb 3 power for charging + voltage display then the 3 extra switches. I saw someone do similar to this here on the forum some time back. So I cannot take credit for the idea.

Also installed the headlights, hid ballasts and relay harness. Still need to complete wiring to switch for halo lights. Painted the hood latch and support, battery tray and corner fender to rad support braces. They are installed and out of my way. Left front tire is going flat. Reason for the lean. Even though tires will not be used, the lean bugs me and I need to put some air in the tire.

[NDM]

Originally Posted by Richard

Slow at the shop. I took an old glove box door obtained on the forum in and transformed it into a switch panel this week. Painted yesterday and installed today. All locations have a purpose except the the three on the right, they are for future. Never know when you might need to switch something.

Left to right- right PW control, hidden radio, halo lights, compressor on/off, rear locker, front locker, heated seats L/R, hidden radio input, usb-c and usb 3 power for charging + voltage display then the 3 extra switches. I saw someone do similar to this here on the forum some time back. So I cannot take credit for the idea.

Also installed the headlights, hid ballasts and relay harness. Still need to complete wiring to switch for halo lights. Painted the hood latch and support, battery tray and corner fender to rad support braces. They are installed and out of my way. Left front tire is going flat. Reason for the lean. Even though tires will not be used, the lean bugs me and I need to put some air in the tire.

Seriously... I think I am 100% copying that switch panel idea. That looks soooo good 👍

[mr.mud1]

more great work,switch panel looks like it grew there.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

more great work,switch panel looks like it grew there.

A comment from you always makes me smile

[Richard]

Originally Posted by NDM

Seriously... I think I am 100% copying that switch panel idea. That looks soooo good 👍

Thanks “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery" My original plan was just to cut door down and leave enough material to bend a flange to attach it. Then I thought it would look cool with the formed detail all around the edge. Hours of cutting, welding, grinding, bit of body work and paint. You see the result. Think it would be hard to get enough $ for this piece to make for someone. No, I am not offering. This is my one prototype

[NDM]

Originally Posted by Richard

Thanks “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery" My original plan was just to cut door down and leave enough material to bend a flange to attach it. Then I thought it would look cool with the formed detail all around the edge. Hours of cutting, welding, grinding, bit of body work and paint. You see the result. Think it would be hard to get enough $ for this piece to make for someone. No, I am not offering. This is my one prototype

As a metal shaper myself, I looked at it and said to myself "I could make that with a quick hammerform mdf buck with a raised edge". Basically picture this-
3/4 mdf with the correct radiused edge. The top of the buck would be dished so that I could form the concave in the part.

I am not trying to minimize the hours of work that you put in. I just visualized a way for me to make one from a flat sheet.

I may be geeking out on the part but seriously, it is very appealing to my eyes.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by NDM

As a metal shaper myself, I looked at it and said to myself "I could make that with a quick hammerform mdf buck with a raised edge". Basically picture this-
3/4 mdf with the correct radiused edge. The top of the buck would be dished so that I could form the concave in the part.

I am not trying to minimize the hours of work that you put in. I just visualized a way for me to make one from a flat sheet.

I may be geeking out on the part but seriously, it is very appealing to my eyes.

Sounds like you are more skilled with metal work than I. Yes, I can see using a buck or even a pull max to make the part. Awesome you could make this from flat metal!
I have never liked the under dash L bracket mounting of accessories. A glove box door matches the instrument cluster shape and obviously the glove box door. No worries about "minimizing" anything. Modifying a door was the path of least resistance for ME to get the result I wanted at this time with the resources at hand.

[57taskforce]

Love the progress Richard. That switch panel is pretty slick! I’m curious how you like the breaks when the time comes. I have contemplated that swap on mine for a while but not pulled the trigger. Mine with hydraboost and the stock front GM 60 brake setup stops the 35’s pretty decent but more is always better right? Lol

[Richard]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Love the progress Richard. That switch panel is pretty slick! I’m curious how you like the breaks when the time comes. I have contemplated that swap on mine for a while but not pulled the trigger. Mine with hydraboost and the stock front GM 60 brake setup stops the 35’s pretty decent but more is always better right? Lol

Thank you, yes I do feel like I am knocking some stuff out and progressing forward again. Switch panel turned out pretty good. The wiring is not real hard. There is just so much of it! As I always did in the past on things that could be overwhelming, one or two parts at a time while keeping an eye on what is next.
One thing that pushed me to to do the Ram 3500 14" brakes was the rotor goes on from the front. No disassembling the entire hub for the rotor. While Brembo and Wilwood brakes are cool and may work better in certain situations. Over the counter maintenance items like brakes are a requirement for me as this truck will be a driver.

[Richard]

The steering ram lines are made and installed. Something I had been putting off as the truck needed to be at full droop to determine line length. Also needed to check for binding tie rod ends used on drag link, all good. Side pic of truck is with tires back on, full droop is about 2" more.
Threw a battery in the recently installed tray. Hooked up a few wires and the motor turned over with the key! Probably a bit anticlimactic for most, but it was cool to see some results of all the work. Will start testing components now and continue with wiring.
Threw in a pic of the high pressure fittings used on the hoses.

[Richard]

Finished the instrument cluster. Originally out of a heavy truck. Why there is an air pressure gauge, will use that for my on board compressor. Had a 5k tach, I sanded the numbers off, polished and installed a new 8k decal from pjmoreland along with the 8k tach. The ammeter was replaced with a volt gauge from T-Bone. I obtained an electronic oil pressure gauge then swapped a stock face onto it to get rid of the oil feed line into the cab. Gauge reads up to 100 psi so is more compatible with the LS. Lastly I installed a check engine light. I made the amber lens and installed a decal from pjmoreland.

[Richard]

Have completed a lot of wiring. Rear truck harness is installed as well as Vaporworx fuel pump harness and pwm controller.
Started on brake lines and ordered the custom length hoses from Crown performance.
Painted the tank and skidplate. Assembled tank and it is ready for install. While probably not necessary because of the fuel module reservoir and technology. I added two additional pick-ups at rear of tank. Not apparent in pictures because it looks just like the previous, but the ZL1 fuel module has been swapped for the Vaporworx Super pump. Basically a CTS-V fuel module good for 800+hp supercharged (modded for Blazer tank by me).
I tested the sending unit with the new gauge cluster and it reads as it should.
Talking with the tuner and Carl at Vaporworx I may be at the edge of what a ZL1 pump can handle. Decided to make to make the switch now so tank does not have to be dropped again.
Next few days are more wiring, hard line for fuel and vapor to front of truck and maybe more brake line work. A few pics were attached.

[NDM]

What vehicle was that hydrocortisone from? My cammed 6.6 is not making enough vacuum so I need to get hydroboost.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by NDM

What vehicle was that hydrocortisone from? My cammed 6.6 is not making enough vacuum so I need to get hydroboost.

I am not sure. The hydroboost unit is from Vanco https://canrockcrawl.com/ it is ported for use with the steering ram.
My power steering pump is a custom built unit from Turn One https://turnonesteering.com/ IIRC on their test dyno it was 1700 psi at just over 4.5 gpm. I had read about problems using stock components with the combo I have.
Maybe contact 57taskforce (Tyler) He is this forum's moderator and has added hydroboost to his truck using stock spec components.

[Richard]

Have been able to get back to truck a bit. Also some work at the shop. Brakes lines are pretty much done. Still need to bleed and make a bracket to keep front hoses away from the coilovers. Fuel line is done. I installed a pressure gauge on the fuel rail for tuning. It has a shut off as well. Was told the mechanical gauge can act as a dampener and prevent the PWM controller from reacting as quickly for the fuel system. Added some pics to see. Getting close to a fire up at the house.

[mr.mud1]

Looking good,it's all progress.

[Richard]

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

Looking good,it's all progress.

Yes it is. Brakes are bled with the vacuum tool. Had three small drips that were easily fixed on the 16 flares I made. Not great, but first time used that flaring tool. Have a pedal now. Vacuum bleeder never seems to do the job fully. I will follow up when I can find someone to help that can work a brake pedal and is willing to help. A bit of wiring today. Stopped and did something fun. Installed trim on both front fenders. Brought a smile to my face Going to remove core support frame mounts tomorrow and modify a bit to lower it. Will make fender alignment to doors easier.

[Richard]

Fuel line is ran to front of truck and I also finished all the instrument cluster wiring in the cab.
With the tank in place it was time to tackle the last PITA thing I was avoiding. Checking clearances at the rear suspension with the newer springs and everything in place. Tore down the rear leaf packs and cycled the suspension. Traction bars are great, no binding at all and they miss the front spring hangers at full bump.
Shackles have clearance at full bump.
Tank clears! It is tight with only 1/4" clearance. Will massage the tank a bit to gain a bit more room for the notched section I will put in the skid plate. Probably tomorrow.
The measurements show 14" of wheel travel, when leaf packs are reassembled they will gain about an inch of arch. So, I ended up with the 15" of travel I was shooting for.

[Richard]

Finally back together today. The crawling and heavy stuff takes it's toll on me.
Notch in skid plate clears the diff at full bump.
I had received the custom brake hoses from Crown just 5 days after ordering. Good quality and fast for custom stuff. Installed rear hoses while access is easy. Trying something a bit different to avoid a super long brake hose at the rear diff. Everything in hand to finish the brake lines and should have everything to complete the e-brake system as well.

[Richard]

Had to take it easy for a bit. Episodes of vertigo had been coming on. Been years since I dealt with that. Working on the brake lines when I can. Front is done minus a few frame clamps, short on hardware. Line is ran to back just need to route to both rear hoses. Something to look at.

[Richard]

Bit more done. The universal parallel flow condenser is installed along with the filter/dryer housing a GM pressure switch and over/under pressure switch. I bent up the new straight aluminum lines that were ordered to get them through the rad support. A sleeve type shroud needs to be made to tie the condenser to front of radiator. It will improve air flow at low speeds. Made the mounts for the supercharger heat exchanger and installed as well. It is just a stock ZL1 piece. Was not willing to spend the $500+ the aftermarket wants. Can always change later.
Found a pressure bleeder and ordered it, arrived today. Less than $50. An amount I am willing to spend to not bother the wife for her brake pumping ability. The fitting fits the reservoir and seems to hold pressure. May give the brake bleed another try on Saturday.

[best view]

Really coming together

[Steeveedee]

I'm busy in the morning tomorrow (Wednesday 7/2) but if you need a foot for running the brake pedal I can be available after that, if need be.