47-55.1 Eliminate draft tube options

[dsraven]

there are quite a few builders using the S10 frame under their old coupes. maybe something like that could work.
it probably wouldn't matter what new project you take on, if it's old you likely will need some welding and panel work. lol.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by dsraven

there are quite a few builders using the S10 frame under their old coupes. maybe something like that could work.
it probably wouldn't matter what new project you take on, if it's old you likely will need some welding and panel work. lol.

I am still tormented on this decision. I could live with all the panel work if the frame joining had been done properly. It does look like crap and given the previous owners poor cutting skills with a torch, I can only imagine how messed up the frame work must be.

Before I totally walk away, I will investigate the S10 option.

[leegreen]

earlier you described the car as on the road for years until someone started in to redo it. Was it on the road and driving well with that '71 clip?
If it was a running driving intact car with updated driveline that needs the rust seen to, that is one thing. if it a pile of junk that needs frame replaced, powertrain, brakes, interior AND rust repaired it is another.

I can't see all the welds and gas axe work your describing, but redoing that body mount would not be so bad. A charitable interpretation of that picture is that it is a mock up: with hood and fenders on get the panel gaps right, weld in some junk to hold the body where you want it, take the fenders off again for access and this is the starting point for the final mount.

The best way to finish a project is to buy the right starting point.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

earlier you described the car as on the road for years until someone started in to redo it. Was it on the road and driving well with that '71 clip?
If it was a running driving intact car with updated driveline that needs the rust seen to, that is one thing. if it a pile of junk that needs frame replaced, powertrain, brakes, interior AND rust repaired it is another.

I can't see all the welds and gas axe work your describing, but redoing that body mount would not be so bad. A charitable interpretation of that picture is that it is a mock up: with hood and fenders on get the panel gaps right, weld in some junk to hold the body where you want it, take the fenders off again for access and this is the starting point for the final mount.

The best way to finish a project is to buy the right starting point.

My friend bought the car 25 years ago. He put it up on jack stands 10-15 years ago (he's not 100% sure when he did). He told me that while he was driving it, he probably only put 200-300 miles on it. He intentionally bought it to restore. He said he looked at 4 or 5 1940 models and this was the best of them......

After a lot of thought, I can live with handling most of the body panel work. It is not my forte and the amount of welding would definitely improve my skills. My friend has a boat load of all new part, including two of the body panels I'd need. He has new gauges, a new HEI distributor, a Ron Francis wiring harness, the car has a 350 c.i. V8 and new headers, he has a Vintage Air AC kit, a new radiator and newish core support (the old one was cut in half to reduce its thickness using the cutting torch), a set of Cragar mags, new steel wheels with chrome rings and caps. For all of this my friend is only asking $8,000.

My issue is that the frame joining was done strangely. The previous owner did cut them both cleanly, then weld plates on all side. He cut the Camaro frame and cut a long length of it down to a point (sort of) and then laid that long section (at least two feet) under the original frame. He cut the original frame at about the firewall. See pic below, its a real mess. If I felt more confident about the frame joint, I could be convinced to move forward. But I think to feel good about the frame I'd either need to 1) remove the body, cut the mess out and join the frame sections properly (way over my head in technical details), 2) remove the body and swap frames with an S10 as suggested earlier or 3) buy a roll frame already completed from a local hotrod shop ($$$$)



The rest of the original frame looks solid, the "Trans Am" rear diff and leaf springs look a mess too.

[leegreen]

I like that picture more. It looks like the welding is not finished, just tacked?
So the Camaro frame tapers along the bottom of original frame? That does not sound so bad. Those old frames were made of thin stuff, I'd rather see a long joint between newer more rigid front section and the old frame.

Are there any structural crossmembers under it ? original was probably a sturdy bolted in front K member, a Sturdy trans cross member and not much else.

I'd spend some time with a tape measure seeing if it was square and symmetrical. Take a long objective look at all the things needed and think about having other projects you might rather spend a couple years free time on

more pictures!

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by leegreen

more pictures!

FYI, the "new" tires have a date code of 2304!!!!

Notice the nice clean cut of the old core support. Every metal cut on this car looks like that.

[TX3100Guy]

Also the previous owner brought the entire Camaro wiring harness and fuse box over, it is a giant rats nest of wires. I cannot imagine very many wires necessary to start and run a 1971 Camaro V8 and Hydramatic transmission. If I proceed, I would cut 100% of that crap out and use the Ron Francis brand spanking news, still in the box, wiring harness.

[dsraven]

That doesn't look to bad to me. Most stuff I work on gets yanked off the frame anyway so a frame check wouldn't be too hard. I know a guy who have used the S10 under his Oldsmobile of the same vintage but if the clip looks like it's welded on strong I would drop a plumb bob from each side rear axle and from the middle of each ball joint and do some dimension checking for square etc. Then go from there. You don't get much of anything old for that kinda cash so it sounds good to me. My wife says I see potential in stuff that others don't, so......lol.

[leegreen]

does not look bad to me at all. Probably worth the 10k Canadian$ the way it sits, put the fenders on, drop some seats in and you could flip it for a profit. Make it yard drive and it may be worth double

[dsraven]

rugged cuts, for sure, but a cutting torch was possibly what he had and he had plans to use that as a template for a new part he fabbed or cut down a new part with the proper tools. who knows, but the parts can be pretty easily fixed if you want to. it loos pretty solid but then you gotta want to do the work and have the finished project.
here is some inspiration
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...8-chevy-coupe/

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by dsraven

rugged cuts, for sure, but a cutting torch was possibly what he had and he had plans to use that as a template for a new part he fabbed or cut down a new part with the proper tools. who knows, but the parts can be pretty easily fixed if you want to. it loos pretty solid but then you gotta want to do the work and have the finished project.
here is some inspiration
https://www.motortrend.com/features/...8-chevy-coupe/

Here is the competition. The question is, for another $20k can what I've pictured even come close to looking like this? While this isn't my goal, pouring money and time into a project to have it cost more and look shabbier isn't the goal either. I'm still confused.

https://www.streetsideclassics.com/v...-master-deluxe

[dsraven]

Would you build a stock looking car with a more modern front suspension and drivetrain? Not lowered, not chopped etc?

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by dsraven

Would you build a stock looking car with a more modern front suspension and drivetrain? Not lowered, not chopped etc?

Definitely not chopped but likely somewhat lower than stock height. I dislike the Gasser look and would prefer that the rear of the car sit higher than the front with larger tires in the back.

I'm pretty fussy about mechanical perfection, but less fussy about paint. I'd be happy to have the car in a clear coated patina look.

[TX3100Guy]

In fact, I'd be tempted to use my two post lift to raise the body from the frame. Take care of all the mechanical, engine, suspension, brakes, exhaust, etc. While dealing with all the body panels that need replaced separately

[dsraven]

what I would do
lift body off
do a thorough check of the frame, suspension, rear axle etc and get a list of repairs needed, parts list etc
when the body is off and sitting on your hoist you can see what you have from the underside, inside wheelwells, under floor etc, under truck etc. also i would look at that firewall because it looks like it is screwed or rivetted on. possibly it will need to be welded to the car if there is no originakl fireewall under the panel. anyway, same deal as the frame, do checks, get a list
when done go through the parts that come with the car and see what you have compared to the lists that you made
contact a welder or shop that can do what you think you can't do or don't wanna do, get some quotes
put all the prices together and see if you wanna tackle the project. like leegreen says, for the price you could probably flip it if you decide its too deep for you.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by dsraven

what I would do
lift body off
do a thorough check of the frame, suspension, rear axle etc and get a list of repairs needed, parts list etc
when the body is off and sitting on your hoist you can see what you have from the underside, inside wheelwells, under floor etc, under truck etc. also i would look at that firewall because it looks like it is screwed or rivetted on. possibly it will need to be welded to the car if there is no originakl fireewall under the panel. anyway, same deal as the frame, do checks, get a list
when done go through the parts that come with the car and see what you have compared to the lists that you made
contact a welder or shop that can do what you think you can't do or don't wanna do, get some quotes
put all the prices together and see if you wanna tackle the project. like leegreen says, for the price you could probably flip it if you decide its too deep for you.

You forgot the most important part of any car project…….getting the approval of the spousal unit for both the purchase (and subsequent expenditures) as well as the mess created by disassembling an 84 year old car. Unfortunately, I made the mistake of showing my wife the pictures and she called it a piece of $hit. She’s not wrong at least before it’s restored.

As an aside, the car has zero interior. Is it still possible to purchase door cards and upholstery panels for the rear sides? It has no headliner either.

[TX3100Guy]

Now back to the 1953 Chevy pickup. The repaired magneto (blown condenser) was shipped and will be delivered to my house tomorrow. Unfortunately, I am out of town helping my son in St. Louis who is having hernia surgery tomorrow. I won't be home until the middle of next week and can't wait to get it installed and start the final steps of completing my truck. I've been at it since April of 2022.

[dsraven]

that will be awesome to get it back in and running. then you can go get some dirt on it so you have something to clean after. lol.
post up some pics or a short video of it running if you can. been following along in the whole process so would love to hear it thunder

[dsraven]

in answer to your question about upholstery cards and their availability, i am not sure on the answer for a repop set but they are easily enough made from plastic panels or upholstery backer. any decent auto upholstery shop could fix you up with the backer or buy iy online. then some spray adhesive, thin foam and a covering material of your choice.

[dsraven]

the plastic backer used in marine seat bottoms is awesome to work with for backer. it shapes easily, is wayer proof and takes glue or staples well. it's called star board. not cheap but works great. some guys use sheet abs plastic as well. the cardboard cowl board that a lot of projects use can lose it's shape if it gets damp.

[TX3100Guy]

Originally Posted by dsraven

that will be awesome to get it back in and running. then you can go get some dirt on it so you have something to clean after. lol.
post up some pics or a short video of it running if you can. been following along in the whole process so would love to hear it thunder

Photos and videos for sure!

[TX3100Guy]

Dr. appointment today, magneto goes back in tomorrow. Here is the old picture of the tech generator that was attached to the magneto previously and a photo of the magneto fully assembled prior to removal of the tach generator section.







Now here is a photo of the magneto with a new shaft for the cam gear and oil pump. The gizmo attached to the side of the mag is the Hall Effect sensor that counts the rotation of the magnets and sends that count to my electronic tach for display of the RPM's.

This is a reduction of a good four inches or more of height of the the magneto and shaft.

[TX3100Guy]

While posting the photos above this morning, I realized that the steel ring on the new shaft is making the magneto shaft too short to fully fit in the block and engage both the cam gear and the oil pump dog. The cam gear engages, but that ring prevents the magneto from fully seating into the oil pump slot.

I have emailed Joe Hunt and will call them shortly to find a resolution. One step forward and two steps back.

[TX3100Guy]

If you've been following along, you can imagine how frustrated I am with the entire magneto situation. I have sent the magneto back to Joe Hunt and have no idea how long it will take to get them to rectify the situation so that I can get the magneto installed and the engine running again.

Tonight, I made an executive decision - no alcohol was involved - I found a GM HEI distributor on Summit and place an order for it and new plug wires. I'm going to drive out to Arlington, TX tomorrow and pick it up. I want this engine running so can I can back to re-installing the fenders and all. I've never installed an HEI distributor before, but have studied the wiring harness diagram and reviewed the instructions on the Summit site for the unit.

It seems that the HEI distributor has two wires, one to the ignition circuit and the second to the tach. So far, that doesn't seem too tough. Any input on things to watch out for would be appreciated.

[geezer#99]

Hei is big and tall.
You gonna have room for it?