Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

ok so once I had it all disassembled I noticed I set two pieces down out of order, so the second pic shows the correction, apologies

[68post]

I've done this same shifter cleaning, then greased it and fitted a plastic bag around it to at least help seal out the grime for as long as possible.

Thought I had a new shifter when done.

[Gregski]

so we got all our parts separated, time to start a cleaning, gentlemen if there is one thing I learned is that the solvent and toothbrush method is cute for 2012 BMW owners trying to get a dead mosquito off their exhaust pipe chrome tips, but for 40 plus year old trucks we need a 4" wire wheel on our trusty angle grinders to git our real men dirt and grime off, ha ha

not sure if you guys noticed a little slight of hand trick I performed for you: do you see how we went from 3 shims to 4?

somehow while wire wheelin the top two identical wavy shims (with the two hole punch in them) on the upper right in the second pic separated, so the question be, was Molly the Hurst assembler technician not paying attention when she grabbed two of them accidentally cause they was stuck together, or did my shifter or do some shifters need two/double shims in there, in all the minutes spent on YouTube I have yet to see a four shim setup, can anybody comment please

we mark this Color Severity Orange as I don't want to have parts left over after [ahem] fixin' something, you know how that goes

[Gregski]

and what do we git / see when we clean our old parts? that's right some good all fashion part numbers, but you already knew that

ah back when the world was a simpler time and part numbers made sense, I think these went

0073
0074
0075

so if you want to roll your own Hurst shifter for one of these transmissions these lever part numbers are your ticket

[Gregski]

started the day by re assembling the shifter, all the parts were clean and lubricated with white lithium grease, the action is superb now

FYI: I left the extra (second) wavy shim out - we'll call it a spare

[Gregski]

then I moved on to the radiator, figured I put it off long enuff

so first we cleaned it, then a little wire wheel action, then a coat of black paint and satin clear, no primer, didn't want it to have too many layers on it

last pic is after the first light coat

[Gregski]

so second coat and clear, than we flip it over and do it again, it was easier to mask it laying flat than trying to hang it, in my opinion

[Gregski]

and finally got the driver side spark plug wire routing figured out, well #5 mostly - all done using parts from about 7 Vortec engine looms, ha ha

Had to run the longest wire maybe the 32" from #5 under the block and attached to an upside down mounted Vortec wire loom bracket in make shift mode, ha ha aka the key to the entire operation

[Gregski]

... and now the Money Shot!!!

[Valarius_Starchaser]

woah.....

[Gregski]

and now a sneak peak of Greg's Exhaust 4.0 (that's right folks this will be our fourth version of the exhaust system)

sorry guys The Greg will not be running his X pipe any longer nor is he interested in the H pipe setup

those rediculously long turn down tail pipes may be cut and 2 feet of that pipe may go in front of the mufflers to move them back, to be determined

[Gregski]

EXHAUST MEMORY LANE

Version 1.0 - stock exhaust, manifolds and two into one tailpipe, or what was left of it, the grandson of the previous owner saw a hole in the stock muffler so decided to just cut it off, yes I drove the truck home about 50 miles with a straight pipe baby - pronounced "loud"

Version 2.0 - LMC Truck 2 1/4 dual exhaust system with Turbo Mufflers, very affordable and easy to install setup / upgrade, absolutely no issues with it, mates with the stock exhaust manifolds

Version 3.0 - Hooker Competition Long Tube Headers and Summits X Pipe (P.I.A. to install without welding for one dude) still 2 1/4 utilizing those same LMC Truck Turbo Mufflers

Version 4.0 - Same Hooker Headers with Flowmaster Series 40 mufflers and 2.5" pipes, yeah baby!

[daddyjeep]

Originally Posted by Gregski

... and now the Money Shot!!!

Dude, the colors are all backwards. love it.

[68Timber]

Oh wow. I didn't know you'd stepped the pipe up to 2.5". I've had that exact exhaust before on a square and it is loud.

[y5mgisi]

I bet you will end up quieting the exhaust down somehow after a while. I have had the same setup before and it was way too much for me.

[Rich84]

What He said^^^

[Gregski]

some last minute stuff before the big day tomorrow...

[Oberon67]

Well at least you got pizza.

[69heavychevy]

Say it ain't so Gregski...You were the inspiration for me going from true duals to an X-pipe lol! I love my X-pipe set up, sounds great and a lot more smoother than the dual exhaust...but I will admit it was a major PITA to install on my back laying on the driveway...

[Gregski]

my buddy Mopar Seth gave me the idea of using a Dodge 833 backup switch instead of buying a $25 connector for the GM one, which got me into thinking, what if we just swap switches, and have to buy nothing

well here they is side by side (welll top and bottom) the blade one on top is off of my 1974 Muncise SM465 the roundy round is from the 1984 New Process 833, they look same enuff fer me so I swapped them and will let you know if that works

[enaberif]

Switch should be a two wire setup with the ball (detent) acting as the switch. When the detent ball is pressed in you have electrons flowing and when its out electrons stop.

Easy way to check this is grab a multimeter and probe both prongs and press the ball in and out.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by enaberif

Switch should be a two wire setup with the ball (detent) acting as the switch. When the detent ball is pressed in you have electrons flowing and when its out electrons stop.

Easy way to check this is grab a multimeter and probe both prongs and press the ball in and out.

thanks bud, I know the switch works cause it's my old working switch, question being will the reverse lock out tab like mating with that ball in this transmission and make enuff contact to activate it, for that I need the trans in the car at the right angle in the right position with fluid and my girl sittin' beside me, ha ha

[rich weyand]

Originally Posted by 68Timber

Oh wow. I didn't know you'd stepped the pipe up to 2.5". I've had that exact exhaust before on a square and it is loud.

Huh. That's exactly what I have on mine, and it's fine with me.

[Gregski]

so my first setback is that the rear U joints are of two different sizes, my old drive shaft spider cross thingie measures 1.063 in diameter, and the new donor drive shaft cross thingie is bigger at 1.129 so it won't could fit in the U joint or yoke what ever you call the thing in the differential

what ta do? what ta do?

can we switch caps? you know the ones that hold the roller bearings, maybe the tube inside there be of the same diameter

[Gregski]

so the final piece of the puzzle showed up the overdrive transmission side cover gasket, so I sprayed one gasket adhesive on both sides of it and slapped the side cover on the transmission, than I adjusted the fingers

I went to replace the bushings and whoa realized this is a GM transmission ladies and gentlemen, so if they is going to weld in their non HURST sticks they don't need no stinking bushings, not nylon not steel, they don't use any bushings, ha ha

the nylon ones would not fit, and there weren't any in there to begin with