Restoring Rusty

[Gregski]

originally I thought the Turbo 350 driveshaft I got would not slip in to the tailshaft of the overdrive 833 transmission since the shaft was keyed but the tailshaft wasn't, but than I said now Greg don' be skierd try again, so I wiggled it a bit, stared at it for a minute than I stared inside it for a minute, and then I shoved her in

turns out the area that is keyed just skips a spline instead of having a wider spline, so that had no effect on the two mating

score that as a win!

[Gregski]

dang it's passed midnight gentlemen, it's Saturday, so it's officially:

D Day!

[Gregski]

so lets get this Party started!

has anybody seen my nice black dress socks, anybody?

[Gregski]

I'm tired so I'll let the pictures do the talking

[Gregski]

I like this pic the most, it's like an assembly line

[Gregski]

put the mosquito wheel on with some Blue (medium) loctite and torqued it down to "as hard as you can, plus a quarter turn" ha ha, jk 60ft lbs

[Gregski]

Check this guy out fellas, he is so [ahem] clutch!

[Gregski]

that's it for me, good night everybody!

[Rob C]

So close!! Liking the 2.5 exhaust btw..Had it in my old truck too. I loved the sound. Let's everyone know your there

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by rich weyand

Huh. That's exactly what I have on mine, and it's fine with me.

That wasn't meant as a slam to anyone running that combo, FM sells a ton of those 40's every year I'm sure. But that was the loudest combo I've ever run by far, and even though I was in my 20's when I had it, it was was still embarrassing at times. Some people are obviously OK with it, to each his own. I don't think his wife and kids are going to like it. Especially with turn-downs.

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by 68Timber

That wasn't meant as a slam to anyone running that combo, FM sells a ton of those 40's every year I'm sure. But that was the loudest combo I've ever run by far, and even though I was in my 20's when I had it, it was was still embarrassing at times. Some people are obviously OK with it, to each his own. I don't think his wife and kids are going to like it. Especially with turn-downs.

An X or H pipe with 40 series and tail pipes straight out the back makes a lot less throbbing drone in the cab without the bends of side exit tails... just two 45 degree bends and straight out. The drone can get annoying on longer trips.

An H or X pipe will make a noticeable difference in the RPM range of your torque band and a pretty respectable jump in HP. http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/exh...for-your-ride/

You may end up wishing you opted for the 50 series. They are still pretty aggressive sounding when you get on it without as much throbbing running drone.

[hatzie]

More on how and why the H and X pipes work and what they are useful for...
If I understand this correctly now... You can get rid of some of the offensive drone without killing the aggressive tone using an X or H pipe... Maybe somewhere between the 40 & 50 series running and still have the growl when you get in it. Maybe.

http://my350z.com/forum/intake-exhau...ml#post7111390

"There's a big misconception about the intended function of the X-Pipe versus the H-Pipe.

The H-Pipe does balance out the pressures and slightly helps start the scavange effect on the next exhaust pulse. But it's most effective use when properly placed and sized is for it's tuning function. Sound waves enter the tube changing to a specific frequency that was found to be a problem. Prehaps a droaning noise at highway speeds. With the correct placement in the system and correct inside diameter, sound waves entering the tub shift to the problem frequency. When like frequencies collide, they cancel.

The power comes from opening up the exhaust. A slight add comes from the scavenge effect but ultimately the H-pipe is to counter the noise from opening up the exhaust.

The X-Pipe on the other hand is more effective in sound cancellation. By forcing the exhaust streams to collide, some sound frequencies are cancelled. (In a much larger range than the H-Pipe.) You would think the two exhaust paths colliding would cause more backpressure. In reality, the exhaust flow mass follows the path down the same side. (Bending around the inside of the X.)

The sound frequencies cross paths of the exhaust. Cancellation of like frequencies occur even though the mass of the exhaust flow hits and deflects into the same side pipe.

This is all assuming WOT condition or near full mass flow rate. At lower flow rate, the X-pipe does make the low frequency idle sound a little irratic. Something desireable in a Mustang or Corvette. But a Cadillac wouldn't care for it.

This is used as a band aid in tuning high performance vehicles to meet the legal pass-by requirements. Something that is difficult to do on a car like the Viper Roadster or Corvette.

The X-pipe idea was tried on the Viper roadster but ultimately they used the H-pipe design. If you've ever seen the OE system on a Viper Roadster, the exhaust exits the headers, enters an un-Godly hot converter that I have seen damage body panels and melt basalt packing back into a crystal solid. It runs down the side of the car into the main muffler and then to the rear axle. Then it turns to the opposite side and hits the H-pipe which is over the axle and exits out before the axle on the opposite side of the car. If it were not for the Pass-By requirements, this would be an easy design.

Designs like this and the birth of the X-pipe all stem from the need to meet the requirement. Again, the X-pipe just allows the exhaust to be opened up more while tuning out undesireable frequencies. It's ability to "add" power is a debate most drawn up by aftermarket marketing managers. Everyone loves a gadget."
--- Quoted from the above linked post by User Phreakedout at the 350Z forum

[Jeramy]

Originally Posted by Gregski

so my first setback is that the rear U joints are of two different sizes, my old drive shaft spider cross thingie measures 1.063 in diameter, and the new donor drive shaft cross thingie is bigger at 1.129 so it won't could fit in the U joint or yoke what ever you call the thing in the differential

what ta do? what ta do?

can we switch caps? you know the ones that hold the roller bearings, maybe the tube inside there be of the same diameter

precision u joint part number 449

[Gregski]

so the engine / transmission installation took 12 hours and started with us mating the New Process 833 overdrive transmission to the engine like so

no fluids, no motor oil in the engine, no transmission fluid in the transmission

[Gregski]

the hardest part of the physical install was the transmission crossmember, turns out I did not get the proper 833 crossmember but got a basic 4x4 one instead when I bought the transmission, so we ended up using my original Muncie SM465 crossmember, however to get it to work we had to move it forward about an inch and I think flip it front to back as the holes are a bit offset

so in other words the 833 transmission has the transmission bracket about 1 inch closer to the bellhousing than the Muncie its just off far enough so you can't just drill two new holes in the crossmember as it is only about 2 inches wide in the middle and the bolt heads would not fit

we also had to notch the floor sheet metal to make room for the shifter, more specifically the shifter bracket as it sits about 1 inch too far back to clear the natural opening cavity

[Gregski]

the engine getting installed...

[Gregski]

the swan neck HURST shifter stick would not work as it would hit the dash when attempting to shift into 1st or 3rd gears, we even tried mounting it backwards, same problem

so we drilled some 3/8ths holes in the base of the generic stick that came with the shifter and mounted it up for the time being, but another HURST shifter is in our near future

[Gregski]

another problem was the donor drive shaft off of the 1988 short bed 2WD truck, turns out at 56" it is about 3 inches too short, so we need another one but at least we had something to shove in the tailshaft and see for ourselves if it would work or not, that means way more to me than stretching some measuring tape and reading that

but seriously I missed it by one year? remember our generation goes up to 1987

[Gregski]

turns out the truck wanted to spin the driveshaft even when the transmission was in neutral, so we had to pull it out and plug the tailshaft hole with a spray can cap and some masking tape and raise the rear end of the truck to keep the transmission fluid from dripping out ~ ROADKILL would be proud!

the only problem we had during our 25 minute camshaft break in was that the truck overheated after about 10 minutes, guess what, we had to pull the thermostat out to complete the break in so turns out Pontiac Mike was right when originally he told me not to install the thermostat until we break the cam in

that's why we ran for 25 minutes instead of 20 (varying the RPMs between 2000 and 2500) because we stopped to let it cool off to the point where we could yank that thermostat out and top it off with water, we ran water only intsead of coolant and I am so glad we did that, otherwise we would have sweet green coolant all over the engine and the garage floor, etc

we did not bolt up the power steering pump for the cam break in, there was no need plus the new water pump has a threaded hole for that bracket where as the original did not and allowed the long bolt to pass right through, I am going to see if there is a better way to mount the power steering pump than hanging it off that one exhaust manifold bolt, that is just silly

we ran the engine wiring quickly but just ugly enuff for the break in, I hope to nicely tuck it all away so that all you see is the spark plug wires

my '74 water temp sending unit was too big and would not fit in the Vortec head so I had to mount it in the intake manifold, I wonder if the Vortec sending unit will report properly to my '74 guage

we primed the engine with a drill to get oil to all the rockers

we primed the carb with gasoline so it didn't have to suck gas from the line while grinding on the cam

there were no other major problems during break in to report

[Gregski]

and a sneak peak at the newly painted radiator core support, yes the radiator shroud will be going back on but it was too dusty/dirty to find its way back on during the break in

and the headlight wiring harness will be hidden inside the core support

[Gregski]

and that's all the updates for tonight, again it was a long day, 12 hours with only 1 hour break for some delicious burritos, thanks to Mopar Seth and Pontiac Mike for helping out, but did I really deserve this? Clearly they are not Flowmaster fans!

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by Jeramy

precision u joint part number 449

wow Jeramy you da man, thank you so much, that might could work if I can find a bit longer shaft

[Gregski]

here's my cynical take on the whole H pipe X pipe craze (for our street use people):

"How do we sell them what they already have?"

It's the cheese in the pizza crust nonsense.

They start out with single exhaust, and we gave them dual exhaust and they ate it up, now what do we sell? We need a gimick.

I give you the H pipe.

a few years later... hey man the H pipe sales are slowing down, we need a gimick

I know, lets give them the X pipe

Hmmm I woder whats the next "best" thing to simply get the dirty gases passed the passenger compartment?

oh by the way, Good Morning everybody, lol, take this with a grain of salt no need to start WWIII over it, ha ha

[rusty76]

Glad to see the puppy back in the cage. How I envy you. Grrrrr.

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by rusty76

Glad to see the puppy back in the cage. How I envy you. Grrrrr.

thanks, lots of work bro lots of work!