"Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis

[52ratrod]

I just read though your thread and just wanted to tell you great job. I started my build and there is so many tips and tricks that im going to use like your cab and box mount.

My question for you is I have an 85 s10 frame. I'm going to do the blazer brake upgrade. Is there a hub to get without the abs hook up? Also is it possible to use the stock s10 hardlines and flex hose with frame mounts with the blazer caliper.

Thanks

[Northern 52]

Hussey:

I don't have the rad yet but would like to modify the rad mount now to set up the front end positioning. Would it be possible to get the final height of your rad mount frame (bottom of the 2 x 3 angle you added to a good top reference point). I plan to go with the same rad and fan combination as you did so it should all just slip in when I do get them.

The cab mounts are ready for final welding and I am going to add the 1/4 inch to the height as you suggested.

Your build is definitely inspiring and the nice weather we are having here lately has me in the garage daily.


Brendan

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by Northern 52

Hussey:

I don't have the rad yet but would like to modify the rad mount now to set up the front end positioning. Would it be possible to get the final height of your rad mount frame (bottom of the 2 x 3 angle you added to a good top reference point). I plan to go with the same rad and fan combination as you did so it should all just slip in when I do get them.

The cab mounts are ready for final welding and I am going to add the 1/4 inch to the height as you suggested.

Your build is definitely inspiring and the nice weather we are having here lately has me in the garage daily.


Brendan

Brendan, I took a measurement. The radiator is right at 19 in. from top to bottom. This is measured from the top to the bottom of the aluminum u-channel at the top and bottom of the radiator core. If you give yourself 19-1/4 in. to 19-3/8 in. from the top of the 2x3 angle to the underside of the top of the radiator core support you should be good.

However, I would highly recommend getting your radiator first before doing any cutting. It's not too pricey of a part from Summit and they can have it to you pretty quick. That way you know for sure you'll be right on.

Good to hear it's working out for you. I had some serious dumb luck on where my mounts landed. The bottom of the 2x3 on the front core support is just barely over the front gear box, any lower I would have been in trouble. Adding the 1/4 to the height should be just right.

[Northern 52]

Perfect. I think you are right and I will go ahead and order the rad and fan next week to be on the safe side. I'm just itching to put the fenders in place and stand back to have a look. The cab mounts are were all tacked together today so they will be test fitted in place tomorrow.

Thanks again for the help.

Brendan

[gigamanx]

my issue with the radiator, radiator support, and fenders, is that you won't know exactly where it sits until AFTER the hood is on. To get the hood gaps right, you have to be able to lower and raise the core support to get the right fitment. Take your time, its worth it in the end. I had to do mine twice because the first time I got everything tacked in and together with just the fenders and no hood. When it was time to put the hood in, I was a whole inch too low for the hood to close and have even gaps across the fenders.

[Northern 52]

Great advice on lining up the front end. Hadn't thought about the hood not sitting right. I will definitely fit it all together before building the rad lower support.

I bit the bullet and placed my order from Summit this morning. The rad and fan should be here by the end of the week.

The front mounts took a little persuading and trimming to fit the narrow part of the cab front but the cab mount locations are exactly where recommended and are ready for welding up and then permanently welded in place. The two inch location from the oval hole was a great reference point. I think the cab actually sits nicer now than it did on the wooden blocks.

Could I ask for a couple of more quick measurements? Getting a bit ahead of myself but what is the length of the bed rail tops and how far from the cab is the front of the bed? The reason I ask is that I am considering getting a blazer gas tank for behind the axle. I have a long bed that I am going to shorten to a short bed. It currently has four stake pockets on each side. I'm hoping to cut off one end next to the third pocket and still end up with the correct length short bed sides. Also, trimming the chassis frame as you did may not leave enough room for that tank.

The stock tank location may be the best route to go in the end.

Thanks again.

The help you guys have provided here is definitely making this project fun.

Brendan

[99 to Life]

the blazer tank will fit behind the axle. you'll cut about 5" off the rear of the frame if its an s10 long bed single cab. You will have to rework your rear xmember. save your extra stake pockets and sell them. people would def want them. I had to make one from scratch one time. With the rad, the front fenders should be level and that should put you in the very close ball park. but yes hood fitment is a good practice. You could also just make shims for your core support if the whole thing needs to come up.

[Northern 52]

Sorry, I neglected to mention that the donor truck was a 2000 extended cab short box. I had to shorten the frame to get the correct wheelbase. After a long search, it was the only half decent truck I could find in my area. We use way too much salt on the roads in the winter so the older ones are long gone.

[Brown Package]

Originally Posted by DeanTX

I think spinners are way cool on these trucks. I just can't afford paying half what the wheels cost for spinners. These I got for $35.00 shipped, vendor is automotivesupersaver_ inc on Ebay. The centers cost me $22.00 shipped for the four. So I have almost $60.00 in the whole thing.

I have Ridler 695s which are similar but cheaper than Boss 338. Spinners are ABS plastic and come black. I lightly scuffed them with Scotchbrite pad then painted them with aluminum spray paint. You cannot tell they were plastic. I got custom centers from Devries Signs also on Ebay. Devries has a whole list of cool 3D (kinda dome shaped) center designs in various diameters in 1/4" increments. Mine needed 1.75". They are self adhesive. He will also make custom for a little bit more. I got the Punisher in chrome on black on mine.

I had to fabricate a metal backing to make them fit. The diameter is the same as the center cap of the wheel, but you are on your own making them attach. If you are interested I will show you what I did for mine.

Do you mind if i ask what wheel (size, finish, etc) you are using? Just picked up my 49' five days ago...and i am building my info. for which way I want to go on wheels and tires. Thank you!

[Brown Package]

Originally Posted by 1952ssr

Thanks

You could possibly find a set of just spinners on ebay and drill a hole to mount in your existing center caps. Mine are plastic and mount with a special hub for the 338's through the wheels center. I know the price of the AR, that was why I went with the 338's. Here's the truck I got the spinner idea from.

Just picked up my 49' five days ago, and posted on another photo for this thread. Do you mind sharing your wheel info (size, finish, etc). Trying to pick a wheel for my truck. Thank you.

[Northern 52]

Posting 119 has the wheel and tire size on this build. They definitely look great.

I am considering Dodge Ram 20 inch rims with slightly lower profile tires and using GM to Dodge adapters.

I really like the looks of them, they have very little offset and I need spacers anyway.


By the way, my rad support is done and it turned out terrific. Without the pictures posted, it would have been quite time consuming. Now to put the front end together.

Brendan

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Northern 52

Posting 119 has the wheel and tire size on this build. They definitely look great.

I am considering Dodge Ram 20 inch rims with slightly lower profile tires and using GM to Dodge adapters.

I really like the looks of them, they have very little offset and I need spacers anyway.


By the way, my rad support is done and it turned out terrific. Without the pictures posted, it would have been quite time consuming. Now to put the front end together.

Brendan

Good to hear. For the front end...a quick trick is two of the smaller HF stands (3ton) are the perfect height to sit the front of the fenders on while you're moving things around. I think they are $20 on a good day with a 20% coupon. You can see mine under this pic.

[Brown Package]

Thank you Sir.

[Brown Package]

1952SSR would you mind sharing your wheel manufacturer, and sizes (front & rear)? Thanks!

[1952ssr]

I went with Boss 338 w/ spinners.
20X10 / 255-35-20 on the rear
18x8 / 225-40-18 up front.

Changing tire sizes in the future to 275-35-20 on rear
wheel and tires on front to 18x9.5 on 255-40-18's.
That's the combo I have on my '53 I'm building now. I like the look much better.

[Brown Package]

Originally Posted by 1952ssr

I went with Boss 338 w/ spinners.
20X10 / 255-35-20 on the rear
18x8 / 225-40-18 up front.

Changing tire sizes in the future to 275-35-20 on rear
wheel and tires on front to 18x9.5 on 255-40-18's.
That's the combo I have on my '53 I'm building now. I like the look much better.

1952SSR thanks for the info. Still gathering all my backspacing as the front had spacers (2 1/4") and the rear had spacers as well (2 1/2"). It was running 225/60/16 and 235/60/16 on old Iroc wheels (nasty looking). So those will go on Craigslist shortly, just need to sort out the series I was, but was looking at some of these photos in this build and like the set up.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

A few other little things are done too like a new fuel pump and fuel lines routed and hooked up. Power steering lines also hooked up. The engine is set but I can adjust it forward or backward a couple of inches once I get the cab on. I’m using Advance Adapters S10 conversion motor mounts.

I know there’s multiple ways to do the motor mounts but this is the solution I came up with. The S10 conversion mounts are meant to move the motor forward not back. You need to move the motor back with an S10 chassis swap.

I bought a set of S10 conversion mounts thinking I could simply swap them side to side to get the motor to move back not forward. However, the fuel pump casting of the block interferes with the motor mount adapter plates.

So, I put the S10 conversion mounts on the chassis and the rubber motor mounts on the motor. One other problem, at least on my chassis, the chassis motor mount bolt holes are not symmetrical. This is why the S10 2.8L motor mounts have slots in them and the Corvette style has holes.

On the passengers side you can install all three bolts. On the drivers side you can install the top bolt then drill the lower two on the chassis or weld the S10 conversion mounts to the chassis. I haven’t gotten my engine set yet so I’ve put off worrying about final attachment until then; though, I will probably bolt them on.

I picked up my S10 conversion mounts on eBay for $30 shipped. Otherwise, I don't think I would have experimented with them.

So in summary, S10 conversion mounts bolted to the chassis, rubber motor mounts bolted to the motor. From my measurements, this will get the motor back about 4 inches which I’m hoping is enough for radiator clearance; otherwise I will have to come up with another solution.

Quick question. Do you know or have a picture of the space between the firewall and motor. Also I am using the same engine. Did you keep the engine oil cooler connected or did you eliminate it?

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by 28TudorAZ

Quick question. Do you know or have a picture of the space between the firewall and motor. Also I am using the same engine. Did you keep the engine oil cooler connected or did you eliminate it?

I also have an SBC 350 with the TBI taken off from a 1995 C1500. Here is a pic...the distributor cable almost touches the firewall...I'd say there is 3/4 to an inch between the firewall and the valve covers

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

I also have an SBC 350 with the TBI taken off from a 1995 C1500. Here is a pic...the distributor cable almost touches the firewall...I'd say there is 3/4 to an inch between the firewall and the valve covers

Are you using the s10 swap mounts? What about the cooler for the motor oil did you eliminate it or hook it up?

[Northern 52]

On my build, I was 1/4 inch from the firewall on the passenger side. After much thought and measuring, I decided to recess the firewall 2 inches. The whole thing worked out perfect with extra valve cover clearance and the wheels now centered in the fenders. This also allowed me to move the cab mounts forward 1 inch while also gaining 1 inch of clearance behind the engine. It actually didn't take that long to do once I got rolling.

Brendan

[gigamanx]

Had to think about that for a bit. So, I followed the oil filter delete suggestion I was given when building out the engine. there is an adaptor plate that does two things 1. Allows you change the oil filter to be vertical making changes much much easier. 2. Deletes the oil cooler line.

I found my invoice for Jegs.com
599-HP-2002 K&N filter
809-3951644 Oil filter bolt
809-19299222 Oil filter adaptor

Not a good pic, but you can see the K&N filter installed. It was a super easy mod and I've been very happy with the performance.

[28TudorAZ]

Is there any difference in height for a 1952? I used these plans for mine and now I am 2nd guessing myself. I plan on trying the cab on the frame tomorrow.

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

I Drew up a set of plans for the cab mounts I came up with.





Downloadable PDFs which are a bit clearer are available at the following links:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B29...ew?usp=sharing

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Had to think about that for a bit. So, I followed the oil filter delete suggestion I was given when building out the engine. there is an adaptor plate that does two things 1. Allows you change the oil filter to be vertical making changes much much easier. 2. Deletes the oil cooler line.

I found my invoice for Jegs.com
599-HP-2002 K&N filter
809-3951644 Oil filter bolt
809-19299222 Oil filter adaptor

Not a good pic, but you can see the K&N filter installed. It was a super easy mod and I've been very happy with the performance.

Thanks. I will probably just eliminate it.

[gigamanx]

Missed your other question...I used Transdapt 9926 S10 motor mounts.



Jegs has both a kit with pads and a kit without. My pads looked fine, so I didn't bother with those. Just got the plates to mount the SBC.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969/9926/10002/-1

[Shredded Thread]

Hussey,

Do you have a part number for the 2” hub centric spacers? I have been looking all over the internet and everything I find says they are not for use with 2wd blazers. I am building a 53 and pretty much copying most of what you have done.