Trying to make Junky perhaps just a little bit Funky...

[DD1]

Today I worked on a few different things.

First, I double checked the brake line I moved last night and it does not seem to be damaged.

Next I removed the wheel tub on the L/S, and I was surprised to see the wheel arch is in decent shape.


Can't say the same for the outer bed panel, but it could be worse.


The wheel tub is not in bad shape either. Moved on the the exhaust, which was not going to work the way it was setup. I wanted to insert the down pipe I got into the existing muffler, so I cut it off at the weld.


Then I removed some aftermarket equipment from the muffler. It was stuffed with insulation; I think squirrels went inside the pipe.


Cut it again, because of course I did not cut enough the first time, but I got the remainder of the pipe out of the muffler (the black pipe in the pic).


My friend gave the muffler a quick coat of paint, and then I cut off the part of the tail pipe that was not straight, and mocked it up on the truck. I plan to keep it simple, pipes going straight back, mufflers under the frame (I will NOT be lowering the truck), with a 90 degree turn out before the wheels.

Unless anyone sees a reason why the muffler should not be located here, this is where I plan to leave it. Although I am open to suggestion if you have any better ideas while still keeping it simple.

[swamp rat]

The folded over part is spot welded, then seam sealed before prime

[DD1]

Real quick update today. Made a temporary vacuum line for the transmission. Only cost $5 in parts, so it's not a big deal if I have to replace it. My skills with the pipe bender is not good. I can bend the pipe okay, but I don't do well at bending it in the exact direction I want.

My friend came over and we started the engine. Checked to make sure the transmission was changing gears; it's working good.

Too hot and tired to do anything else.

[DD1]

Today in the blistering heat, with 91 degrees outside and a heat index of 105, I sit in my garage working on the cab. I really screwed up the A pillar, and have to decide how I want to go about fixing it. I'll post photos of that later. I decided to move on to the rear pillar.

Separating the rear pillar from the cab corner was interesting. It was attached with a combination of bad welds and bondo. Some welds I separated with a screwdriver, at least one, I used my hands. The pillar was replaced before, and while I may not be the best welder, my parts usually line up well. When you run your hand down the rear pillar you can feel that the replaced part is recessed from the cab at the weld joint.

I do have a question. Is there supposed to be a gap between the side of the rear pillar and the cab corner? If yes, that might explain why I had fitment issues on the other side cab corner as I left no gap.

Here is the gap I am referring to on the right side of the pic:


I cut the new piece a bit higher and tack welded it in place. My cuts still are not the best, but at least my panels are lined up to each other.

[DD1]

I have a bunch of rocker panels I bought from someone locally on this forum, however I did not really know what I was doing back then. Most or all of the rocker panels were removed from a truck, and will not work well on mine. I ordered two new panels from Classic Parts.

I am having trouble getting the cab corner to fit properly. It's a bit better but not great. First, I flexed my rear pillar back a bit. Now it sits on top of the reinforced part of the floor pan and I bolted it in. You can see in the dust mark, where it was sitting before.


Here is the problem with the cab corner; When I get everything lined up, the curved part of the piece sticks out. I am thinking of just banging it into position a bit.


If I line it up properly, then I have a problem with the back of the piece.


I can't seem to get the front of the cab corner and the back of it lined up properly.

Going back to the rocker panels. I test fitted the original rocker panel to see how well it fits. It seems to fit okay to me given that it is not complete since I cut it off the cab. I would like to know what anyone else thinks. I am not going to weld anything up until I get the new rockers and see how they fit.

[swamp rat]

I don't have any experiance doing a whole cab corner but i know some of then don't fit too well.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...it#post7354210

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...it#post7354764

[DD1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I don't have any experience doing a whole cab corner but i know some of then don't fit too well.

Thanks for the links. I see at least one person had similar problems to me. I will have to read through them more carefully. I am glad I waited before I tried to manipulate it. Reading about other people issues will help.

I am following your thread and you are kicking butt. I am hopeful for the day when I catch up to you. Right now, I will be crazy happy when I get one side of the cab done.

[mcbassin]

You aren't alone when it come to repair panel fitment. I had many of the same issues when I did my rust repair. I remember several bad fitting parts. I was able to overcome all of it. Take a few minutes and look over in my thread, for inspiration if nothing else. starting on page 29 LINK

[swamp rat]

I did some digging while i'm sitting here getting ready to go get a shoulder tune up, i went thru my saved threads and searched a little to find some relevant threads.

Cab corner comparison:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=630393

Go to page 3, he had to split his cab corner:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=411447

This guy was able to wrap the corner gfrom back to front, then shorten and reweld the flange:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ght=cab+corner
.
.
.
.
.
.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

You aren't alone when it come to repair panel fitment. I had many of the same issues when I did my rust repair. I remember several bad fitting parts. I was able to overcome all of it. Take a few minutes and look over in my thread, for inspiration if nothing else. starting on page 29 LINK

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I did some digging while i'm sitting here getting ready to go get a shoulder tune up, i went thru my saved threads and searched a little to find some relevant threads.

Cab corner comparison:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=630393

Go to page 3, he had to split his cab corner:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=411447

This guy was able to wrap the corner gfrom back to front, then shorten and reweld the flange:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ght=cab+corner
.

Thank you both for taking the time to look up some threads on this. Now I have some reading to do.

Mike, good luck with the shoulder. While I did not have a torn rotator cuff, I had some shoulder issues last year and had 3 procedures done to fix it. The first one ended with me getting a blood clot that went to my lungs. Make sure you see the best doctor in your area.

[DD1]

I am challenging myself to get the sides of the cab done by the end of September. Specifically the door pillars, kick panels, and cab corners. The rocker panels don't need to be included, but it would be a nice bonus if they were.

I am having some structural work done on my garage, which is an old barn. I need to move everything out of the garage while they are doing the work, including the truck.

I am thinking that if I can get the sides done, then I can leave the cab on the frame, test fit the doors, and maybe not remove it again until I am ready to paint it.

Here is an issue that I noticed before, but never really paid much attention to. The front end of the frame where it attaches to the bumper is damaged. I can maybe move it back into the correct position and weld it? There does not seem to be any other damage to the frame. How concerned should I be about this? Any thoughts?

Right side of frame:



Left side of frame is not so bad.

[msgross]

If the frame is straight were it connects to rad support and suspension then I would just lean that up, grind it smooth and weld any ugly parts. In the end a bumper will cover it up.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by msgross

If the frame is straight were it connects to rad support and suspension then I would just lean that up, grind it smooth and weld any ugly parts. In the end a bumper will cover it up.

Thanks. I am not worried about how it looks, more concerned with it being able to hold the bumper and provide support. When the bumper was attached, I had no idea there was an issue.

The frame seems to be straight everywhere else, including the rad support and suspension area. By "lean that up," you mean move it back into the proper position?

[swamp rat]

Shouldn't be anything to worry about, a torch and a hammer to get it back to where it should be and weld it up. Just worry about that body work for now cause we know how it seems to drag along at times.

[DD1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Shouldn't be anything to worry about, a torch and a hammer to get it back to where it should be and weld it up. Just worry about that body work for now cause we know how it seems to drag along at times.

Thanks, Mike. I'll probably work on it the way I am working on the exhaust - when I need a break from the body work, I'll mess around with it for a little while. Just wanted to make sure it's not something I need to be super-concerned about. The radiator support lines up perfectly on the frame, and it looks pretty straight so I don't think there are any frame issues other than the frame horns.

How's the shoulder coming along? Are you doing PT yet?

[swamp rat]

No PT yet, just doing some mobility movement excersizes at home.

[swamp rat]

Updates??

[NewType72]

Man those are some gnarly fitment issues but it sounds like you certainly have them backed into the corner with your determined approach, great work man and good luck on the shoulder recovery!

[DD1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Updates??

Hey, Mike. thanks for checking in. Glad to hear your shoulder is getting better. Stick with the PT and take it easy.

I don't have a lot of updates. I am having some structural work done on my garage, which is an old barn. This had required me to move everything out of the garage and put it in my basement or a storage pod we rented and stuck in the back yard.

The only real updates I have is that I cut the cab corner in half. I have not welded the halves to the cab yet, but mocking it up it seems like it just might work.

I also picked up a passenger side bedside, bed front, bed floor, wheel tubs, and splash guards from another board member at a good price. Until he takes down the pics, the parts I got can be viewed here: https://goo.gl/photos/dYEW1UKbAbsEC1B36

Finally, I stuck both mufflers on the pipes to see how they would sound. I have not clamped or welded them permanently, they are held up with bungee cords. Let's see if I can get the YouTube video to link in to this post.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68R31sYwoAo

Well the link is above. I have seen other people embed the video in the post, but I can't figure out how to do that.

-Darien

[DD1]

Originally Posted by NewType72

Man those are some gnarly fitment issues but it sounds like you certainly have them backed into the corner with your determined approach, great work man and good luck on the shoulder recovery!

Thanks, Dylan. I am doing my best not to let the misfit parts beat me!

Thanks for the wishes on the shoulder, but my shoulder is much better than last year; I'm probably at 90% if not better. Mike (Swamp Rat) is the one with the serious shoulder issues this year. His surgery was much more serious than mine.

[swamp rat]

I like the muffler sound! remember it will get louder at cruising speed, try and mount as far behind the cab as possible to minimize any drone. Hope ya get the structural work done soon!

[DD1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I like the muffler sound! remember it will get louder at cruising speed, try and mount as far behind the cab as possible to minimize any drone. Hope ya get the structural work done soon!

Thanks. It's scheduled to start on 10/3. Should take 5 days. I have to roll my frame into the driveway and wrap it in a tarp for the week. Then on 10/12 I have having a concrete floor poured into the back part of my garage, the room I call a workshop. Will try to attach a pic of my garage (from my phone).

Do you think I should move the mufflers further back?

[swamp rat]

Got any room under the bed between the trailing arms and frame to stand them on end rather than laying flat? I don't deal with trailing arms so i'd have to see in person. General rule of thumb the further back the less chance of resonance in the cab, but the mufflers are fairly quiet so maybe not an issue?

[DD1]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Got any room under the bed between the trailing arms and frame to stand them on end rather than laying flat? I don't deal with trailing arms so i'd have to see in person. General rule of thumb the further back the less chance of resonance in the cab, but the mufflers are fairly quiet so maybe not an issue?

I like your suggestion of moving them back. I have to mess with it and make sure I can get them in a good position. Even if I don't stand them on end, I think there is space to push them back. I just need to get some more straight pipe, and clamps to attach them together.

I took the truck off the dolly's yesterday so now I can check and see how it will fit; I did not want to do it with the truck elevated in case something was off. I should have some time in the evening one day this week.

[NewType72]

Should have plenty of room either way. I don't believe you're as low as my 72 so flat may work best to get them further back. Mine are about dead center on the length of the trailing arm and have a good sound without the drone (flowmaster super 40's)