Attempting my first build 72 K5

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

Mike...that looks awesome. I hope you're gonna install 6-point harnesses, because that thing looks like it's screaming just sitting there cold. Great job!!

Thanks Brad. I'm thinking I might just bolt some seats to the frame and take her for spin

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by sockalaminski

Tough break on the header touching. That's why I hate headers so much. The drive train looks fantastic though. I think your quality blows mine away.

The attention to detail is a lot easier when you have something nice to start with. I couldn't even wrap my head around what you're doing. Your build is like stuff I watch on TV

[JJH Jimmy]

That engine looks sweet! Nice job!

It sucks about the headers but, I would take them off and put them in a pipe chain vise with rags around where the chain will go to prevent any marking. Then widdle down a 2x4 so it will go in the collector end and tweak them just enough to clear. It won't take much to get them to move. Don't try bending them while bolted to the engine! You could possibly warp the flange.

[sockalaminski]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Other option I was thinking is cutting about 1-2" off the end of the collector and welding a new collector piece on there to make it clear

If cutting and welding is an option, you could slit the inside about 3/4 the way through in two or three places about an inch apart and weld it bac up to put kind of a natural curve into the collector.

[tjsblazer]

I ran in the same issue when I tried to fit up both Dougs and Doug Thorleys. I ended up returning both sets to Slummit Racing (love their return policy). In the end I bought a set of Stan's. They fit great on my mock up but that was with stock shackles also. I too am running the ORD shackles, it will be interesting to see how mine fit. I bought the Stans purposely bare in case I needed to make a small tweak and then get them ceramic coated locally. I will say that overall the Stans were the highest quality but also a little more $$.
My set up is a little different that I had to move my engine 1-7/8" forward to allow for the NV4500 tranny.

You've done such an amazing job detailing out this chassis I'm not sure how you could tweak the header without disturbing the ceramic coating.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by tjsblazer

I ran in the same issue when I tried to fit up both Dougs and Doug Thorleys. I ended up returning both sets to Slummit Racing (love their return policy). In the end I bought a set of Stan's. They fit great on my mock up but that was with stock shackles also. I too am running the ORD shackles, it will be interesting to see how mine fit. I bought the Stans purposely bare in case I needed to make a small tweak and then get them ceramic coated locally. I will say that overall the Stans were the highest quality but also a little more $$.
My set up is a little different that I had to move my engine 1-7/8" forward to allow for the NV4500 tranny.

You've done such an amazing job detailing out this chassis I'm not sure how you could tweak the header without disturbing the ceramic coating.

I talked to Doug Thorely this morning and we went through the pictures I sent over. He thinks it's the aftermarket Shackle being to thick but I told him even with the sock shackle the nut on the bolt will still interfere.. He's going to send the pics off to the engineers (or lack there of) lol and see what they come back with. I asked him " why wouldn't;t they just have the end of the collector tube bent a 1/4" inwards" he laughed and said that would require logic.

The guy I was talking with suggested I put in a temporarily spacer and mount the rest of the exhaust system to force the header tube to bend inwards to give it the clearance I need.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Ran into another problem, but this is 100% my fault and nobody else to blame but myself.

When I ordered the engine, I inaccurately measured the distance between the engine block to the end of the water pump. I ordered my engine to come with a long style pump and I needed a short style.. The Water pump pully and the crankcase pully need to be replaced, too.. I'm sure making a habit out of pissing $$$$ away.

I do have my old pullys and I was thinking of maybe just having those anodized locally but that would probably cost more than new aluminum spectre's like the one's on there now.

I also noticed the Crankcase pully on my old engine is a 4 groove (2+2 style) Do I need a 4 groove pully to run AC or can I use a 3 Groove?

[DeadheadNM]

Mike PM sent - looks like I was mistaken and it's an extra groove on the WP pulley rather than the crank for AIR system. Does this pic help?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Mike PM sent - looks like I was mistaken and it's an extra groove on the WP pulley rather than the crank for AIR system. Does this pic help?

Thanks, Pete. This is helpful, but I'm curious to where the AC Compressor pulley bolts too and what brackets are used

[DeadheadNM]

This thread has pics that may help as regards the AC brackets: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=326242

Can supplement with pics from my Blazer later in week when I return

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks, Pete look forward to those pics of your blazer.

[0311Chevy8152]

Just enjoyed scrolling through your build. I just started breaking down my 72 k10 today. I have a thread started if you want to check it out. Any advice you could give for someone just starting would be greatly appreciated. I grew up in San Jose until I joined the Marines in 98. I live just above Sacramento now. Your blazer is looking great. Glad to see a one man crew can tackle a project like this.

[sockalaminski]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Thanks, Pete. This is helpful, but I'm curious to where the AC Compressor pulley bolts too and what brackets are used

You don't have the brackets for the A/C?

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by 0311Chevy8152

Just enjoyed scrolling through your build. I just started breaking down my 72 k10 today. I have a thread started if you want to check it out. Any advice you could give for someone just starting would be greatly appreciated. I grew up in San Jose until I joined the Marines in 98. I live just above Sacramento now. Your blazer is looking great. Glad to see a one man crew can tackle a project like this.

Wow, another grunt on the boards, what weapon did you carry in the squad. I carried the grenade launcher, maybe m-45, been awhile. Good luck on your build, i ve been watching

[0311Chevy8152]

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Wow, another grunt on the boards, what weapon did you carry in the squad. I carried the grenade launcher, maybe m-45, been awhile. Good luck on your build, i ve been watching

I went in 0311 and in boot camp they offered me Yankee white security forces 8152 so I spent my time in DC and surrounding areas. But I am a grunt at heart. I think I'm going to be ok taking the truck apart, it's the putting back together I'm worried about.

[jaros44sr]

Originally Posted by 0311Chevy8152

I went in 0311 and in boot camp they offered me Yankee white security forces 8152 so I spent my time in DC and surrounding areas. But I am a grunt at heart. I think I'm going to be ok taking the truck apart, it's the putting back together I'm worried about.

We ll help with any problems getting it back together. Great duty, stateside!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by JJH Jimmy

That engine looks sweet! Nice job!

It sucks about the headers but, I would take them off and put them in a pipe chain vise with rags around where the chain will go to prevent any marking. Then widdle down a 2x4 so it will go in the collector end and tweak them just enough to clear. It won't take much to get them to move. Don't try bending them while bolted to the engine! You could possibly warp the flange.

Sounds like viable option and I think that might best way to go, but I don't have one and I called everyone I know and nobody has a pipe chain vise. I might be able to rent one.

The flanges on the Doug Thorley headers are really thick..It might work with them bolted to the engine. I'll give it try using very little force to see if it might budge just enough.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by 0311Chevy8152

Just enjoyed scrolling through your build. I just started breaking down my 72 k10 today. I have a thread started if you want to check it out. Any advice you could give for someone just starting would be greatly appreciated. I grew up in San Jose until I joined the Marines in 98. I live just above Sacramento now. Your blazer is looking great. Glad to see a one man crew can tackle a project like this.

Nice K10! Body looks solid. I like the look of the black painted grille insert. Thought about doing that to mine.

Since you are just starting the tear down, my first bit of advice

1. Take lots of pictures
2. Bag and tag every piece of hardware with correct name of the bolt and part it goes too. What the service manual refers to it as. When I bagged an tagged some bolts and wrote down descriptions to what I thought the part was instead of the correct part/description it will be confusing 6 months from now

Good luck on your build. I'll be following along

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by sockalaminski

You don't have the brackets for the A/C?

I have the brackets. for the AC. Pete's picture with the A.I.R Belt is what's got me confused.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Some forward progress made. After going back in forth with figuring my best options with the header, I decided that cutting it 1 1/2" off the end was the best solution.

I took it to classic muffler in South San Jose. This guy Andy is super cool. I brought my header in and showed him what I needed done and within 5 minutes he handed it back to and didn't even charge me.

[DeadheadNM]

Glad that's worked out - you'll be cruising soon enough!

[IronCanine]

You can't beat a fix like that. Well done.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

My engine does not look like it's lined up correctly to me.. If anyone could chime in that would know, please do before I decide to remove the engine and remount it again.

The first picture is the passenger side mount. I measure from the front of the engine mount to the side of the frame rail and it is 2 3/4"



The second picture is the same side but from the rear of the mount and it measures at 3"



The third and fourth picture is the driver side. The front of the engine mount measured at 2 1/2" and the rear of the mount measured at 2 3/4"

[sockalaminski]

Overly anal much? That's within 1/8" of being dead center. It should be fine, but if you can't stand it, loosen the mount bolts and stick a crowbar between the mount and crossmember on the driver side and pry up slightly. You only need to move an 1/8". Tighten it up and your good to go.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by sockalaminski

Overly anal much? That's within 1/8" of being dead center. It should be fine, but if you can't stand it, loosen the mount bolts and stick a crowbar between the mount and crossmember on the driver side and pry up slightly. You only need to move an 1/8". Tighten it up and your good to go.

I was hoping you would say that. I'm not touching it if it's fine. I'd say I'm more overly cautious because I don't know what I'm doing

The reason I even brought it up is because the engineers at Doug Thorley said the reason my header might not be fitting correctly is they noticed I had a new crate engine and that it could be miss-aligned.