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10-15-2013, 08:41 PM | #1 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
I was now ready for the first trial fit of the new firewall. After a couple of false starts, I finally had it in the right spot and clamped it at a few strategic points. Using a blue Stabilo pencil, I marked a line around the outer edge of the recontoured firewall. I'll build a z-shaped lip and offset it to match the existing lip before welding it to the firewall. I'll also replace the rotted lip along the top I had to remove. This will then be the foundation for the pinch weld that attaches the firewall permanently. I finished welding out the round patch and ground it smooth, so tomorrow I'll start on the new pinch weld lip.
I also need to make a decision on the map lights. They need to go in before I can glue the top on. Work, work, work, work, work!
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10-15-2013, 09:42 PM | #2 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Woah you aren't playing around that is an unbelievable amount of progress in that short amount of time Vic, it looks great man.
What did you coat the heater motor section of the inner cowl with? Last edited by Xeen; 10-15-2013 at 09:50 PM. |
10-15-2013, 11:32 PM | #3 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
I used Loctite rubberized undercoat out of a rattle can. For bigger areas like the wheelwells and underside of the floor, I have a special applicator gun that hooks to the air hose and pulls the undercoat from a can. Made by 3M as I recall.
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Victor 57 Chevy Wagon - California Dreamin'"Mecum'd" 9/2022 Dallas, TX Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Consigned 4/2019 Dresden, Germany Maybelline - my '57 Ford 2dr Sedan "Mecum'd" 3/2016 Location unknown Silver Streaker "Mecum'd" 4/2013 Somewhere in Texas |
10-15-2013, 10:25 PM | #4 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Saw that nibbler at the fair this year, pretty cool and works well but man they are pricy!
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10-15-2013, 11:39 PM | #5 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Bought mine at PRI a number of years ago and you're right, even at the "show special" price it was expensive. Upside is... it still works great and is very handy. Recently at the salvage yard, I was able to remove a panel around the fuel door on a Blazer using the nibbler and a Unibit. Would have never got the job done with snips.
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Victor 57 Chevy Wagon - California Dreamin'"Mecum'd" 9/2022 Dallas, TX Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Consigned 4/2019 Dresden, Germany Maybelline - my '57 Ford 2dr Sedan "Mecum'd" 3/2016 Location unknown Silver Streaker "Mecum'd" 4/2013 Somewhere in Texas |
10-16-2013, 08:01 AM | #6 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Man, looks great Vic! Can't wait for the next installment!
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10-16-2013, 10:13 AM | #7 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Looks great Vic
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10-16-2013, 08:28 PM | #8 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Thanks, Scott ...you're making great progress also. The Porterbuilt stuff is very nice quality and you've been getting the details done right too!
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Victor 57 Chevy Wagon - California Dreamin'"Mecum'd" 9/2022 Dallas, TX Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Consigned 4/2019 Dresden, Germany Maybelline - my '57 Ford 2dr Sedan "Mecum'd" 3/2016 Location unknown Silver Streaker "Mecum'd" 4/2013 Somewhere in Texas |
10-16-2013, 08:49 PM | #9 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
This morning we went to "Grandparents/Special Friends Day" for a little buddy of ours that lives down the street. We share a mutually entertaining afternoon and evening once a week with him, so we were very pleased when we got the invitation. When we returned home, there was a message on the machine that the driveshaft was finished, so I headed down to Inland to pick it up. They did a real nice job. The tubing and one yoke were trashed, so they supplied new parts and the result looks very stout.
It took a bit longer to make the curved lip for the firewall than I'd planned. Set up the shrinker and stretcher side by side since I needed to alternate between them to curve the Z shaped material. Once I had it fit up, I punched/drilled 1/8 holes and then used Clecos to mock it up. Normally I don't use rivets that much, but in this case, they're hidden and welding would be more of a pain. For final assembly, I used large flange stainless rivets to spread the clamping force over a larger area. I'm now in the process of rebuilding the rest of the pinchweld lip across the top. Should be done tomorrow. Jackie at DeTray called this afternoon to say my nickel plating was ready for pickup, so I need to work that into the schedule as well.
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10-16-2013, 08:47 PM | #10 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Great job Vic, love your attention to detail.
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10-16-2013, 08:57 PM | #11 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Thanks, Dan. Some of my forum friends gave me a hard time when I said I was going to just fix a few things on this truck and keep it a beater. Guess they knew better than I that ignoring the details is not in my DNA.
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10-16-2013, 08:49 PM | #12 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Thank you Vic, I am taking notes from your build. I will be doing a frame alignment also once I get everything installed and painted.
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10-16-2013, 09:02 PM | #13 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
"Guess they knew better than I that ignoring the details is not in my DNA."
That's exactly why I'm following your build Vic. No stone left unturned. Always amazed to see the work you do.
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10-16-2013, 10:20 PM | #14 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Looking great Vic
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10-17-2013, 12:09 AM | #15 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Ok, im up to date on the build, and im in.....nice work so far
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10-17-2013, 02:05 AM | #16 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
I really like the redesign of the pinchweld structure and what a great job you did on it, nice attention to detail Vic.
The driveshaft looks good and I bet you are happy to be done with the drivetrain part of the build. Last edited by Xeen; 10-17-2013 at 02:13 AM. |
10-17-2013, 08:30 AM | #17 | |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Quote:
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10-17-2013, 09:45 AM | #18 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Wow, I'm down for the rest of this one. You are a metal working madman Vic!
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10-17-2013, 02:09 PM | #19 | ||
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Quote:
Quote:
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10-17-2013, 06:49 PM | #20 | |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Quote:
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10-17-2013, 02:23 PM | #21 | |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Quote:
Where you grip the metal is important. The closer to the bent edge, the less "action" there is on the metal. The further away causes the metal to move more, but can result in tearing or wrinkling. Next post I'll show the results.
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10-17-2013, 02:45 PM | #22 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
When you shrink the metal, it causes the ends to bow inward toward the tool and when you stretch it, the ends move away from the tool. In the two top photos, I achieved the result by pressing down on the handle with moderate force in three places about 1/4" apart. It takes a bit of experience to judge how much force to use, how far apart to move the material and how close to the edge to place it between strokes. The good thing is, if you go a bit too far, you can shrink an overstretched section and bring it back where it needs to be.
As I worked the piece I added to the cowl, I kept test fitting it to the line I'd previously drawn. Doing a Z-shaped piece of material requires a bit more patience as you have to stretch one edge slightly and then shrink the corresponding area on the opposite edge. If you don't do them evenly, the piece will end up with some "twist" in it. Again, you can fix this by gently removing a small amount of the shrinkage or stretch from the appropriate edge. It's normal to have some small wrinkles when shrinking sheetmetal. Also, if you're stretching a fairly wide edge and are trying to do a tight curve, you may see some splits in the metal before you're done. It will only stretch so far. I carefully dolly out any wrinkles once I have the shape I want. I have individual tools because I don't like to take the time to swap out the dies, but if you're on a budget, I believe you can buy one tool and two sets of dies.
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Victor 57 Chevy Wagon - California Dreamin'"Mecum'd" 9/2022 Dallas, TX Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Consigned 4/2019 Dresden, Germany Maybelline - my '57 Ford 2dr Sedan "Mecum'd" 3/2016 Location unknown Silver Streaker "Mecum'd" 4/2013 Somewhere in Texas |
10-17-2013, 04:14 PM | #23 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Thanks Vic! that makes sense. I've never actually seen this process done or explained. I have to assume it has a handle at the top that is similar to an arbor press and pulling that does the business?
I have to get some of these tools. Super cool! |
10-17-2013, 05:31 PM | #24 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Yes ...if you scroll up a ways to the photo below the one of the driveshaft, you can see the handles a little better. They're about 5/8" diameter X 12" long solid rod. They just pivot in an arc and pushing them all the way down actuates the jaws. Like any specialized tool, cost vs. utility is a factor. Sometimes you're forced to make a piece because it isn't available in the aftermarket. I finally got weary of trying to outsource this kind of work. It's expensive and many times, you don't really get what you hoped for. Buying the tool may be a bit more expensive, but at least you have it and you can practice until the part turns out to your satisfaction. Just my $.02 worth.
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10-17-2013, 05:48 PM | #25 |
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Re: Crusty Rusty Leaky Squeaky 67 Step
Patched up a few more holes and finished the lip on the cowl today. I recently acquired a tool off eBay described as a jeweler's coin punch. Unlike a Greenlee punch that requires a hole thru the material to draw the cutter into a recess, the coin punch makes a round "coin" without the hole. I wanted to close the holes the windshield washer hose originally routed thru. I drilled them out to 1/2" using a Unibit and then lightly pressed a 1/2" round coin into the hole. When welded out, it makes a nice neat patch. For small holes, it's probably overkill. You could lay a copper backing strip behind the hole and MIG it, but that wouldn't be nearly as much fun.
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