"Albert" -- 1949 AD, S10 Chassis

[52ratrod]

I just read though your thread and just wanted to tell you great job. I started my build and there is so many tips and tricks that im going to use like your cab and box mount.

My question for you is I have an 85 s10 frame. I'm going to do the blazer brake upgrade. Is there a hub to get without the abs hook up? Also is it possible to use the stock s10 hardlines and flex hose with frame mounts with the blazer caliper.

Thanks

[Northern 52]

Hussey:

I don't have the rad yet but would like to modify the rad mount now to set up the front end positioning. Would it be possible to get the final height of your rad mount frame (bottom of the 2 x 3 angle you added to a good top reference point). I plan to go with the same rad and fan combination as you did so it should all just slip in when I do get them.

The cab mounts are ready for final welding and I am going to add the 1/4 inch to the height as you suggested.

Your build is definitely inspiring and the nice weather we are having here lately has me in the garage daily.


Brendan

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by Northern 52

Hussey:

I don't have the rad yet but would like to modify the rad mount now to set up the front end positioning. Would it be possible to get the final height of your rad mount frame (bottom of the 2 x 3 angle you added to a good top reference point). I plan to go with the same rad and fan combination as you did so it should all just slip in when I do get them.

The cab mounts are ready for final welding and I am going to add the 1/4 inch to the height as you suggested.

Your build is definitely inspiring and the nice weather we are having here lately has me in the garage daily.


Brendan

Brendan, I took a measurement. The radiator is right at 19 in. from top to bottom. This is measured from the top to the bottom of the aluminum u-channel at the top and bottom of the radiator core. If you give yourself 19-1/4 in. to 19-3/8 in. from the top of the 2x3 angle to the underside of the top of the radiator core support you should be good.

However, I would highly recommend getting your radiator first before doing any cutting. It's not too pricey of a part from Summit and they can have it to you pretty quick. That way you know for sure you'll be right on.

Good to hear it's working out for you. I had some serious dumb luck on where my mounts landed. The bottom of the 2x3 on the front core support is just barely over the front gear box, any lower I would have been in trouble. Adding the 1/4 to the height should be just right.

[Northern 52]

Perfect. I think you are right and I will go ahead and order the rad and fan next week to be on the safe side. I'm just itching to put the fenders in place and stand back to have a look. The cab mounts are were all tacked together today so they will be test fitted in place tomorrow.

Thanks again for the help.

Brendan

[gigamanx]

my issue with the radiator, radiator support, and fenders, is that you won't know exactly where it sits until AFTER the hood is on. To get the hood gaps right, you have to be able to lower and raise the core support to get the right fitment. Take your time, its worth it in the end. I had to do mine twice because the first time I got everything tacked in and together with just the fenders and no hood. When it was time to put the hood in, I was a whole inch too low for the hood to close and have even gaps across the fenders.

[Northern 52]

Great advice on lining up the front end. Hadn't thought about the hood not sitting right. I will definitely fit it all together before building the rad lower support.

I bit the bullet and placed my order from Summit this morning. The rad and fan should be here by the end of the week.

The front mounts took a little persuading and trimming to fit the narrow part of the cab front but the cab mount locations are exactly where recommended and are ready for welding up and then permanently welded in place. The two inch location from the oval hole was a great reference point. I think the cab actually sits nicer now than it did on the wooden blocks.

Could I ask for a couple of more quick measurements? Getting a bit ahead of myself but what is the length of the bed rail tops and how far from the cab is the front of the bed? The reason I ask is that I am considering getting a blazer gas tank for behind the axle. I have a long bed that I am going to shorten to a short bed. It currently has four stake pockets on each side. I'm hoping to cut off one end next to the third pocket and still end up with the correct length short bed sides. Also, trimming the chassis frame as you did may not leave enough room for that tank.

The stock tank location may be the best route to go in the end.

Thanks again.

The help you guys have provided here is definitely making this project fun.

Brendan

[99 to Life]

the blazer tank will fit behind the axle. you'll cut about 5" off the rear of the frame if its an s10 long bed single cab. You will have to rework your rear xmember. save your extra stake pockets and sell them. people would def want them. I had to make one from scratch one time. With the rad, the front fenders should be level and that should put you in the very close ball park. but yes hood fitment is a good practice. You could also just make shims for your core support if the whole thing needs to come up.

[Northern 52]

Sorry, I neglected to mention that the donor truck was a 2000 extended cab short box. I had to shorten the frame to get the correct wheelbase. After a long search, it was the only half decent truck I could find in my area. We use way too much salt on the roads in the winter so the older ones are long gone.

[gigamanx]

Had to think about that for a bit. So, I followed the oil filter delete suggestion I was given when building out the engine. there is an adaptor plate that does two things 1. Allows you change the oil filter to be vertical making changes much much easier. 2. Deletes the oil cooler line.

I found my invoice for Jegs.com
599-HP-2002 K&N filter
809-3951644 Oil filter bolt
809-19299222 Oil filter adaptor

Not a good pic, but you can see the K&N filter installed. It was a super easy mod and I've been very happy with the performance.

[28TudorAZ]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Had to think about that for a bit. So, I followed the oil filter delete suggestion I was given when building out the engine. there is an adaptor plate that does two things 1. Allows you change the oil filter to be vertical making changes much much easier. 2. Deletes the oil cooler line.

I found my invoice for Jegs.com
599-HP-2002 K&N filter
809-3951644 Oil filter bolt
809-19299222 Oil filter adaptor

Not a good pic, but you can see the K&N filter installed. It was a super easy mod and I've been very happy with the performance.

Thanks. I will probably just eliminate it.

[gigamanx]

Missed your other question...I used Transdapt 9926 S10 motor mounts.



Jegs has both a kit with pads and a kit without. My pads looked fine, so I didn't bother with those. Just got the plates to mount the SBC.
https://www.jegs.com/i/Trans-Dapt/969/9926/10002/-1

[Shredded Thread]

Hussey,

Do you have a part number for the 2” hub centric spacers? I have been looking all over the internet and everything I find says they are not for use with 2wd blazers. I am building a 53 and pretty much copying most of what you have done.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by Shredded Thread

Hussey,

Do you have a part number for the 2” hub centric spacers? I have been looking all over the internet and everything I find says they are not for use with 2wd blazers. I am building a 53 and pretty much copying most of what you have done.

I bough mine on eBay and tried pulling it up but records only go back to 2017.

The seller was pe-motorwerks:

http://www.ebaystores.com/precisioneuropeanmotorwerks

I recall mention of not working on 2WD Blazers on some but not sure the reason. Possibly adding a spacer may apply more torque than designed on a 2WD blazer sealed bearing vs. the 4WD which has an axle that bolts through them. The ones I bought bolted up just fine.

[52ratrod]

Hey Hussey,

I'm going the same route you did with the blazer big brake conversion. I just have a question. About the lines. Did you use an s10 flex hose and hard lines or do you need to use the blazer hoses and modify blazer steel lines?

[joedoh]

I cant speak for hussey, buut I have done it both ways, changed hardlines and rubber lines (to the caliper) to blazer style, and used the s10 style on the blazer brakes. the banjo bolt for the caliper is the same size between blazer and s10. the s10 hardline where it joins the rubber line at the frame bracket has a different size, so its one or the other, you cant use a blazer rubber line on an s10 hardline, but the s10 rubber line will fit the blazer caliper.

[HUSSEY]

I installed new Blazer flex lines from the frame to the calipers. My hard lines were pretty crusty so I ran new hard lines from the master cylinder to the each wheel.

[52ratrod]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

I installed new Blazer flex lines from the frame to the calipers. My hard lines were pretty crusty so I ran new hard lines from the master cylinder to the each wheel.

Did you bend your own brake lines and make your connections or did you use a brake line kit?

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by 52ratrod

Did you bend your own brake lines and make your connections or did you use a brake line kit?

I bent and flared my own. You can pick up an line bender and a flaring kit without investing too much.

[52ratrod]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

I bent and flared my own. You can pick up an line bender and a flaring kit without investing too much.

So if I bought S10 flex hose and brake line kit would work? I'm just looking for as easy as possible. Thanks for the information Hussey. I'm following your build as close as possible.

[Tinbasher]

Awesome build! I have read it 3 times now and will be borrowing a few methods from you. Thanks for sharing!

[52ratrod]

Did you happen to put together a parking brake assembly? If so what lines did you use off the upgraded rear end. I cant find cables short enough for the s10 frame

[made2drag]

Love the attention to detail and custom fabrication!

[dsraven]

hey 52ratrod, you can also get park brake cables custom made. try Greenline hose if you have one nearby. there is one in Calgary. they also make brake hoses with whatever end you need.