Out of the Ditch = The Rebuild Begins ('72 GMC)

[GASoline71]

I had recently installed CPP 4" HD rear drop springs to replace the standard CPP 4" drop springs. While I was in there I installed the CPP rear shock relocation brackets too. Now the truck can be used as a truck again, and still have a lowered stance. The HD drop springs make a HUGE difference over the standard drop springs as far as hauling and towing capability. The new shock brackets gave me over an inch more of shock travel as well. Complete difference!

It was a gorgeous day here in the PNW this past Monday. It was my day off and I was headed over to my stepson's place to assist him with his "1970 C20 conversion to C10 project". So I stopped out by our mailbox on the backroad we live on, and snapped a couple of pics. Still no hood on the heap yet... which makes it look kinda mean when ya see it.

Pics are of the new HD springs, Shock relocation brackets... and of course the heap...

Gary

[Ol Blue K20]

Looking good, it's nice to see it out and about

[GASoline71]

I had mentioned that the rig has a bad vibration somewhere around 45-55 mph. I have yet to have the drive line balanced, but did some research on driveshaft "phasing". I had taken the 2 piece shaft apart when I put new U-joints in it. Just made it easier to handle while using a press by myself. Anyhoo... I marked the 2 halves before I separated them so I could slide them back together the same way it came apart.

I either screwed something up when putting them back together or the drivline was out of phase in the old frame and I just never noticed. The transmission yoke was off compared to the rear end yoke. So I unbolted the U-joint straps at the rear end and then separated the 2 halves again. Leaving the transmission side still bolted up by the carrier bearing. I was able to "clock" the rear half 2 splines over on the slip yoke and now all of the U-joints were in alignment with each other.

Took it for a quick test drive and the vibration is pretty much gone! I have some road feel through the steering wheel and front end. but I have to still get the rig to a professional alignment shop. I am still going to get the driveline balanced as well.

Stay tuned...

Gary

[Ol Blue K20]

Sounds like good news to me.

[swamp rat]

Well isn't that the S*I*s!

[GASoline71]

Progress has been kinda slow as we've been busier than a one legged cat burying a turd around here...

But I finally got all the old seam sealer out of the drip rail "ditch", and then wire wheeled it, and gave it a good dousing of Rust Mort. After it sat for a week I masked it off yesterday and hit it all with some self etching primer. Will do one more coat of primer before I start on the self leveling seam sealer.

I bought self leveling sealer from 3M, and an applicator gun made by Cox Industries. Got it all off of Amazon. I'll report back when I have the area sealed up. I looks like I'm gonna have to raise the rear of the truck to make the front edge of the drip rail "ditch" fairly level. The pinch weld is towards the front, and I want the sealer to stay over the seam instead of pooling at the back along the roof line.

Gary

[swamp rat]

Nice, kinda wondered myself how runny that stuff is and what to do about the down side (back of windows) to make sure it stays thick enough.

[NewBayColony]

subscribed

[LostMy65]

Your signature made me think of this:
https://youtu.be/nvy_E9X1N2g

[67C10GS]

Subbed for the story, great inspiration

[cericd]

How did those drip rail sealant products work out? Any issues applying it? I saw you mentioned possibly having to jack the back of the truck up. How's the truck looking now?