1987 GMC V1500 Sierra Classic LS swap/build

[mcbassin]

Congrats on the new TA and the shop floor! I know how big of a deal that is

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Congrats on the new TA and the shop floor! I know how big of a deal that is

Thank you!!

It is a huge deal to me! This is my first shop I built on my own for myself. I have built several for others.

I love that Trans Am, it is only has 2 "flaws" from being my dream car. It isn't black and it isn't a 6 speed, I do plan to swap the 6 speed in soon but the white is growing on me.

[NorCalAnthony]

Sweet score on the T/A dude! She looks like she's in really good shape. How are the mechanics?

Nice job finishing up the shop too. I wish I had a shop like that to work on my projects. Probably best I don't though because I'd wind up spending way too much filing it up with tools, projects, and parts vehicles lol. Keep up the good work dude

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by NorCalAnthony

Sweet score on the T/A dude! She looks like she's in really good shape. How are the mechanics?

Nice job finishing up the shop too. I wish I had a shop like that to work on my projects. Probably best I don't though because I'd wind up spending way too much filing it up with tools, projects, and parts vehicles lol. Keep up the good work dude

Mechanics seem great! This is the mod list the previous owner sent me:

ASA Cam 226/236 110LSA @525 / TSP hardened pushrods and LS2 chain installed at the same time. Cam install at about 100K miles

Hooker Long tube headers/Off road Y-pipe and full 3" Hooker Catback with E-Cutout

Stock trans swapped out after cam swap, this one was built by Andy Mays performance for a turbo car but was sold to me when he changed his plans. It also has a truck oil pan on it so you can drain and swap fluid easily. additional trans cooler mounted up front on the lower spoiler.

3600 TCI SSF converter

Sub frame connectors / tubular lower control arms / adjustable torque arm with tunnel mount and drive shaft safety loop

A few other small mods like throttle body bypass, oil catch can, MSD wires.

Was tuned after cam install and made about 380rwhp and around 370rwtq, a good set of heads and slightly bigger injectors should get it up to 400rwhp.

Swapped out all rotors for slotted ones, rear gears 3.73s, and has ZR1 replica 17x9.5 up front and 17x11 in the rear. Front tires are Firestone Firehawk 275/40 and rears are Nitto 315/35s

Also have an Aero force interceptor gauge mounted in the far left ac vent.

This car averages low 12's but with a better rear end and good tires you'll probably see high 11's. I squeezed out a 12 flat at test and tune once and called it a day after the next pass of 12.3 (spins a lot due to tires, got a good hook on the 12 flat). That was the last time car seen track and has only made 10-13 passes since I've modded it

-------------------------------

I have found a few things that weren't done 100% correct, also the tune isn't that great and needs to be redone.

First thing I fixed was the tune for Torque Converter lockup. It was set to lockup at like 60, but wouldn't lock up for but a few seconds.

Once I learned that a misfire code disables lockup, I fixed it only locking up for a few seconds and readjusted the speeds at which it should lock up with efi live.

Then I fixed 02 sensor and a few other things. She runs acceptable now but not to its fullest potential. It will definitely haul ass, it is the first 4th gen I have had that actually hooks and launches as well, no 2nd or 3rd gen spin, she hooks and launches.

Yeah the plan with the shop is to keep the core 24x30 space free of anything but what I am working on and put all my tools and parts under the "lean-too" additions that I made that are open from the inside. I like having a lot of room while I work to spread things out.

Hopefully I can add a loft or 2 and some shelves to store parts..

She wont fill up with projects, expensive tools too soon b/c I am getting broke!!

[NastyBuzzard]

Taking my damaged bed apart was pretty fun. I tell you though, I wish I knew that there was like 6 hidden bolts at the back of the bed where the welds were. I keep thinking I didn't cut the welds all the way away. Once I took out the tail light I saw the bolts I was missing though. Progress is progress.

I know where one good drivers side bedside is with no fuel door cover, now I need a new passenger side one too.

[NastyBuzzard]

I found a great source for roll up doors! I got a 10x10 door for $373. Problem is, I needed a 9x9 door. However, this is what happens when you go through a 3rd party.

I use to be in the business of building pole buildings/sheds, so I contacted one of our old salesman who now works for another building company who sells them off the lot.

He tells me he can get me the door I need, and I just will have to go pick it up in Augusta, about an hour and fifteen minutes from my house, and then he tells me the price and I am like wooohoo!! So far the cheapest price I could find was $680.

Anyways, apparently he told them I needed a 10x10 and I drove down there expecting to pick up a 9x9. My opening in my shop was only 9ft6in wide and 9ft2in tall, so you can see how a 10x10 would be a problem.

Oh well, already there so I picked it up.



Here it as laid out, as you can see it is definitely too wide and too tall.



After I sat down and drew it out and thought about it, I figured a way to make it work but then it would only be 8' tall. Oh well...



This sucked a little bit, metal didn't match up so I had to take down the whole left side of the front and re-do it.



Ta-Da, the entire building is now wrapped in metal and all is left is trim and filling holes.









Speaking of holes.. Now that I can shut all the doors, you can see how many I have to silicone.. (The roof ones have been fixed, I just used clear silicone and need to go over with some that isn't clear or paint.)





Now I just need to hang a few lights, order my meter base, run wiring, dig a 220' trench... List goes on.

I am hoping to get some time to actually start working on the truck soon.

[y5mgisi]

Good work!

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by y5mgisi

Good work!

Problem is I feel like I am not accomplishing anything really.. I want to finish my truck so bad.

[NastyBuzzard]

Anyone have a link for somewhat of a detailed guide on swapping in my new suburban bucket seats and console? I know that I have to bend the rear of the brackets, and I did get the angled brackets from the donor.

Also, last night I went out and took the hood, fenders, and drivers side door off. So there is some progress. I need to sand and paint the inside of the fenders and fender wheels then start routing all my wiring, splicing in the headlight harness and so on...

Felt so good to work on her.

[Rich84]

The seat swap is basically a bolt in deal..The front a back outside holes are reused. Attach the inside front bracket to the seat to locate, and bolt or weld in place.

The dimples are in the floor where to drill the holes for the console.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Rich84

The seat swap is basically a bolt in deal..The front a back outside holes are reused. Attach the inside front bracket to the seat to locate, and bolt or weld in place.

The dimples are in the floor where to drill the holes for the console.

Very nice! So I have to bend the back of the brackets to match the bench seat brackets, then just drill holes for the other holes? What are the angled brackets used for?

Good to know the dimples are there for the console, I was wondering about that.

[Rich84]

The only hole that has to be drilled is for the rear inner..You need the front inner bracket (stand) from the donor.

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Rich84

The only hole that has to be drilled is for the rear inner..You need the front inner bracket (stand) from the donor.

Just the rear inner? So two holes? I thought the bracket for the bench had 4 bolts, I am thinking the buckets have 8 total?'

I have the brackets from the donor, the somewhat A shaped pieces.

[NastyBuzzard]

Also, anyone have wiring diagrams for 89-91 suburban/k5 headlight wiring, power door wiring, and the wiring for the bed? Reason is I am splicing all this into the 2001 factory harness.

[silverbear]

Do a search for HATZIE on this site. He has all kinds of wiring diagrams listed in his signature. I was able to use what he has posted when I converted my 86 K10 to the 89 Suburban head lights.

[NastyBuzzard]

This made me so happy. It also provides me with motivation.


















As you can see here I have kind of a gap on swapping in these suburban seats.



The rear seems fine after beating it with a big hammer... Funny story though, I missed and almost went full force into my nuts. Luckily it hit my leg before contact so it was only a light hit but boy did it hurt. I felt it in my gut for an hour..

Anyways, hopefully some more progress to make today.

Now that I know where my seat will be I can focus on to where I want the column to be exactly.

[old yelr]

That's awesome!! I wish I had a building like that. Great work!

[NastyBuzzard]

First off. I hate these things. All of them but these dang black widows are everywhere near my shop for some reason. I have never seen so many in my life. I have seen over 5 in the past 2 weekends. This one I actually touched before I saw it... Then I proceeded to hammer it out of existence then burned it with fire...



Anyways. On to the updates. Tried to do some welding for the exhaust. It didn't start out good at all. I had to cut this off to re-position it to go back to my stock y pipe. Didn't end well at all.



Hopefully it can be welded back and not leak, or I will have to find a damn replacement. After all that the dang lead or tip on the welder was shot and I had no replacement, plus the flux core was a bit rusty.

I really wish both sides matched like this one.. Then it could be problem solved. Wishful thinking.



I did get the fenders cleaned and prepped to paint the under hood portions. That was some reasonable progress. I got the fender wells and the core support while I was at it.







I didn't get them perfect by any means but good enough for a daily driver. I dont want to pop the hood to show off my LSX and it be all dirty

Now I need to reassemble the front end, then do some wiring routing and splicing.

Things to do:

"Permanent" mount solution for the steering column.
Splice in all front headlights to the 01 wiring harness.
Splice in all the rear taillights to the 01 wiring harness.
Splice door wiring into the 01 wiring harness.
Weld up exhaust.
Weld mounts for seats and console.
Million other tiny things.
Drink beer and check everything 10x over.

[NastyBuzzard]

A few weekend pick ups.

Picked up this LS1 block for $100. I couldn't find any cracks or issues, cylinders have slight rust. It was used as a mock up block for an LS swap. Hoping it will be fine with a hone job. I oiled the cylinders, put it in a bag and tucked it away in the shop.







Also picked up some stuff that was owed to me but never could get time to get it... No clue what I am going to do with it yet but auto locking hubs may be a nice upgrade. Not sure what is involved. I gotta pull rotors to begin my H3 brake setup swap.

[NastyBuzzard]

Anyone have a diagram, drawing or picture of how the front core support bushings are supposed to go back in? I bought a set of polyurethane body bushings for the truck but I cant remember how the front went one.

[Chevy_mud_truck]

Not sure if this helps

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Chevy_mud_truck

Not sure if this helps

Is that the core support setup or the actual cab ones?

My poly bushing kit came with the two in the middle, is the one on the far left needed? What goes on top of the core support, what goes in the middle between core support and frame and what goes beneath the frame?

Also which way does it go? Bolt through top or bottom. I feel like an idiot for not taking a picture or remembering this.

[Chevy_mud_truck]

On my 83 all the bushing cab and core support was the same the polyurethane just replaces the rubber big washer - core support- the metal cap- bushing -frame mount-bushing-bottom cupped washer the bolt went top down nut on the bottom but I flipped bolt up when i put it back together

[NastyBuzzard]

Originally Posted by Chevy_mud_truck

On my 83 all the bushing cab and core support was the same the polyurethane just replaces the rubber big washer - core support- the metal cap- bushing frame mount-bushing-bottom cupped washer the bolt went top down not on the bottom but I flipped bolt up when i put it back together

Thank you for that. I think I have lost or misplaced the "metal cap" piece that goes under the core support. I need to find that sucker and pickup some new bolts.

I need to get the core support mounted, fender and fender wells back on so I can begin to route wiring and mount everything.

[Chevy_mud_truck]

No problem glad I could help one little tip on polyurethane body bushings had a buddy tell me to put real light coat of grease on the top bushing and the top metal cap he had to take his back apart cause it squeaked like crazy