Project Reno - 72 cheyenne rebuild

[swamp rat]

Nice work in the e brake cable brackets!

[DWilbur]

What is the plan to make the LSX logo. It would be cool to CNC them on mill and paint the letters.

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

What is the plan to make the LSX logo. It would be cool to CNC them on mill and paint the letters.

That is exactly the plan. Billet badges is CNC'ing from aluminum. I should have the finished badge shortly.

[rgunlock]

The custom badges are going to be a great touch! Nice job with the brake cable holders and cold air ducting.

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

Nice work in the e brake cable brackets!

Originally Posted by rgunlock

The custom badges are going to be a great touch! Nice job with the brake cable holders and cold air ducting.

Thanks guys! I can't wait to see all the little details finished up. I am also thinking about buying some pressure adhesive backed real burl wood veneer
To do the glovebox and ashtray faces. I took so much of the Cheyenne trim off this thing seems wrong to not put some back in. It would match the lighter brown interior accents as well. Any opinions on that??? I am sure a lot of guys don't like that I didn't go back stock, but I want to do this well.

[ryanroo]

Everything looks great!

for the wood, and i find this hard to say, as normally i would vote a hard no, but i think with your paint color it would look really neat inside. also, to heck with the ones that don't like modifications. i agree some folks would be better served to leave it stock, but when the mods are planned out and executed well, it only make the truck better.

i am excited to see this one outside in a full body shot. if i had to guess you might be excited to see how the rear tires look after they turn into a minor white cloud. i know i am with mine....

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by ryanroo

Everything looks great!

for the wood, and i find this hard to say, as normally i would vote a hard no, but i think with your paint color it would look really neat inside. also, to heck with the ones that don't like modifications. i agree some folks would be better served to leave it stock, but when the mods are planned out and executed well, it only make the truck better.

i am excited to see this one outside in a full body shot. if i had to guess you might be excited to see how the rear tires look after they turn into a minor white cloud. i know i am with mine....

Thanks for the support. I am definitely leaning toward doing the wood, but it will have to be exactly what i am looking for and not a compromise for me to do it.
As for the tires...

[cmabolt]

Hey Steve, the tank is made by Boyd's welding. Very nice product!

The gas door is a ford truck gas door. The advanatage to these is the vent tube is inside the filler tube. I think the year is late 80's early 90's

Chris

[ssuth9]

Originally Posted by cmabolt

Hey Steve, the tank is made by Boyd's welding. Very nice product!

The gas door is a ford truck gas door. The advantage to these is the vent tube is inside the filler tube. I think the year is late 80's early 90's

Chris

Awesome.. Thanks Chris, A Hunting I Will Go..

[cmabolt]

Well, finally nailed down a date on the exhaust parts. This week everything comes in. Ahhh yeah, finally!!

In the mean time, back to emblem painting. So I ordered some 1 shot 4007 hardener. The first time these were painted they never fully dried even after about a week.

This stuff is supposed to help it dry and also thinned the paint a bit which helped our technique. I say our, but really the little lady re-painted these again. We decided to use a needle and syringe. We pre-mixed the paint and hardener in a small plastic cup. 5 teaspoons of paint and 1/2 teaspoon of hardener. She sucked the paint into the syringe then put on the needle. Then she squirted the air out.

She slowly pushed the plunger to let paint flow and it self leveled. Worked great I think and no brush strokes.


Now just need to see how they dry.

[ryanroo]

that looks fantastic.

Have fun with the exhaust, i've been doing that same chore myself.

[ssuth9]

Wow.. Those do look fantastic.

Great Job Little Lady.

[Blown06]

The emblems look killer again, hope it cures out this time. Truck's gonna look fantastic when you get finished.

[DWilbur]

The emblems look great. Can I send mine over to get done I have the paint too.

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by DWilbur

The emblems look great. Can I send mine over to get done I have the paint too.

Sure thing! Maybe I should turn painting these things into another business. Though, the little lady might not appreciate that since she would be painting them.

I checked again this morning and they could go on the truck now. Much better cure then before. We used an old emblem to test this technique and it also works great to check the paint cure. If I really press down on the paint it will make a small fingerprint impression, but it is easily smoothed out. When we paint the billet badge pieces I will probably use a bit more hardener. I would say a full teaspoon of hardener for 5 teaspoons of paint. It doesn't take more than say 10 minutes to do one emblem so no need to extend cure time really.

Chris

[Lokin4AReason]

nice touch, that's for sure =0)

[rgunlock]

Those turned out really well Chris. I don't know anything about syringes, but did you have to buy one with an oversize needle (inner diameter) or hole in order to shove paint through it? I'm guessing that the ones I get to inject marinade into turkeys would be a little too big

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Those turned out really well Chris. I don't know anything about syringes, but did you have to buy one with an oversize needle (inner diameter) or hole in order to shove paint through it? I'm guessing that the ones I get to inject marinade into turkeys would be a little too big

Hey thanks Rick. Yeah, the turkey basting needles might be ahhh... overkill.


For those that want to try this method, here is the actual syringe we used.
The 22G is the needle opening I think and the last number 1 1/2" is the length of needle. The syringe is 3ml.


Looks like they are readily available online, but may be in large quantities.

Good luck!
Chris

[7dee2]

Those look great!

[DWilbur]

I have bought syringes on line several times. I use then as glue guns for building RC air planes. the work great.

[First c10]

Looking great! Glad your almost done.... I need help I know you want to come to the left coast!

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by First c10

Looking great! Glad your almost done.... I need help I know you want to come to the left coast!

Yup, the left coast does have a pull on me for sure. I could use some cali weather and ocean breezes right about now. The humidity here sucks.

Anyway, I may just take a break from building and just try driving for a bit. I am sure before long that the restoration itch will hit me again. I would love to do a 2 wheel drive from the 50's era.

I think I feel an itch coming on....

[DWilbur]

I was feeling the same itch 56. but I had to set that itch aside and get my 71 painted.

[First c10]

I have two 56' itches waiting to be scratched just have 2 sons in the way....

[cmabolt]

Originally Posted by First c10

I have two 56' itches waiting to be scratched just have 2 sons in the way....

You have 2, I have none... Smell what i'm cooking here????
Anyway, with all this itching going on, we may need a forum dermatologist.

How much can I expect to pay for a 56 in need of some love? Kinda deal where all the parts are on the truck, but it just needs some love. Even a lot of love...

Anyway, today is the day the rest of my exhaust parts arrive. Unfortunately, I am slammed with work. This is the way it always works. When I have no work, I have all the time in the world and no parts. When the parts arrive, i have no time to install them. Ugh. So I wait a little while longer and remember that money drives this boat.

As I check and double check the truck for missed small projects I discovered
that I never made filler plates that cover the flywheel openings on the bell housing. The area around the starter and on drivers side just below the oil filter.




I also need to incorporate an additional spring for the clutch fork into the drivers side plate. The clutch is so easy to press that I can afford to add some drag for the sake of keeping the throwout bearing off the pressure plate diaphragm. The tolerance is so tight between the throwout and diaphragm that a 1/4 inch could be the difference between great clutch action or pre-mature wear.


Cheers