Junkyard Jimmy Super Low Buck Build Thread

[hgs_notes]

The heads were a mixed bag. One was completely good, one has a crack, but repairable. The exhaust seat on the left has a crack at about the 6 o' clock position in this pic. The right exhaust port just has the start of a small one, you can't really see it. They can fix it for about $40. I brought them home so I can clean up some cast flashing in the ports first. I just ordered the rebuild kit for them ($121 with shipping), so the machine shop will have pair of the new valves for test fitting, etc. Overall, not bad for a set of $73 heads.

Too bad winter finally decided to show up. At the same time my propane bottle ran out for the garage heater. By keeping it warm out there this fall, I am able to heat the whole garage with a small electric heater until my gas line is done. It wouldn't do it last year because the cement slab was already colder than freezing.

I had one small fitting leak on the new gas line to the garage. I'll get my new manometer tomorrow so I can test and adjust the heater on natural gas. So hopefully, after tomorrow night I don't have to worry about losing heat out there again.

[VA72C10]

sounds like a good deal overall...what do you think you'll have in them when complete and ready to run?

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

sounds like a good deal overall...what do you think you'll have in them when complete and ready to run?

Not sure what the machine shop is charging for the clean and MT on them, probably around $40 or so. Then $40 to fix the cracks, then whatever comes up with making sure the guides are good, etc. $73 for the heads, $121 for parts, I'll guess about $300 to $350 for a solid set of rebuilt heads with good flow characteristics and a small combustion chamber with stainless valves and HD springs. Plus the cost of a new off brand dual plane intake manifold to fit at about $130. A new set might be had for about $620 a pair through summit. If you have the money, that's the way to go.

The heads are THE most important part for making engine power along with the cam. This should be a strong running engine. As long as I didn't mess something up.

[hgs_notes]

Spent a lot of time over the last week in the garage. Most of it was spent getting my heater converted back to gas. It took a few days extra while I waited for a manometer to get delivered for testing and adjusting. Anyway, it's working great.

The other time consuming thing was cleaning up the garage. Winter finally showed up and the wife want's her garage stall back. After parting stuff out and just piling it up, the garage was a disaster. It turned out ok, but the benches still need cleaned off so I can get the portable bench out.




Added a little more decoration. Couldn't sell it for the price I wanted, so I mounted the dash up on the wall. I'll probably add the gages and glove box door later.


There is some small progress to report though. The parts came in for the head upgrade.


And I got out the die grinder to clean up the ports a little. Nothing crazy here, I have no experience. I just did some common sense stuff like cleaning the cast flashing off in certain areas. In the intake ports, the bottom of the valve guide boss is machined, but the factory tooling left a ridge around the edge. I cleaned that up a little. I'll bring the heads back to the machine shop this week.

[71swb4x4]

Looking good!! Did you get the freezing rain today? What a mess this stuff is!

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

Looking good!! Did you get the freezing rain today? What a mess this stuff is!

Thanks. Yeah, I almost had my first fall of the year with my first step out of the house. I was not expecting it and was very lucky I didn't break my fall with the steps. Got the ice melter out right away and then it warmed enough to melt away.

The bad thing is they're predicting more sleet, freezing rain and snow and I'm supposed to drive to Nekoosa, WI then back up to Minneapolis tomorrow. Ick. It's a long enough drive in good weather.

[hgs_notes]

The machine shop is done working the heads. Turns out a full valve regrind was needed to clean the seats up so the costs went up. That's ok with me, considering the new parts and a rebuilt shortblock it's going on. Leaky valves would have been very disappointing. My wife will drop off the new parts for the assembly tomorrow on her way to work. The shop does not charge for assembling them because they would like to be sure the valves are lubed in the guides properly, springs shimmed, etc. I better get a move on buying the intake manifold. That's about all I need to finish the engine up. Do a little wiring and get the fuel hooked up and see what happens.

[hgs_notes]

Picked up my high dollar heads yesterday. Machine shop bill is right around $250. Thet did a crack repair, replaced a valve seat, honed the guides, full seat regrind, milled the gasket surface and full assembly. It was about $100 more than I had planned. The valve regrind might actually help HP a bit, because they ground out the lip around the intake valve from the factory job, which should help flow slightly and prevent detonation from the sharp edges that were around the valve seats. Might have slightly higher compression with the milling, but I think removal of some material with the valve seat grinding mill make up for some of that. I put a bid on an intake manifold but it'll be a week before that ends. If I can roll this thing into the garage during my xmas vacation, I might drive it back out!



You can just make out a spot at the 9 o'clock position where they installed a plug to remove the crack.

[VA72C10]

glad you got them back and they're good to go now. Sorry bout the unexpected expenses...that's why I haven't ever bought used heads. You scored them for a deal, but even with that it (as you mentioned) added up to nearly what a set of new ones run from ebay or summit.

[Tynee]

I'd fire your body man if he can't keep the overspray off the internals of the engine

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

glad you got them back and they're good to go now. Sorry bout the unexpected expenses...that's why I haven't ever bought used heads. You scored them for a deal, but even with that it (as you mentioned) added up to nearly what a set of new ones run from ebay or summit.

New ones would have cost another couple hundred at least. There are a few scenarios that could have happened. I could have used the set from the old engine as they were. They would work, they were cheap, that's about all the pros on that.

Or buy and use this set as is and rebuild them later. The one crack may have become a problem, it's hard to guess on those things.

I could have bought another used set for more money (lower mileage, junkyard guarentee) and maybe get lucky enough to use as is. The yards I asked quoted me about $270 to $300 a pair.

Or do like I did, but use the original hardware and save about $100.

But this engine is basically a rebuild on a budget with a few performance parts to increase the fun factor. Basic re-ring job with performance cam, upgraded heads with better valve springs and valves, performance intake and edelbrock carb. All together the engine is costing about $1000. I did it myself and I'm hoping it runs well enough that I'll be satisfied.

Originally Posted by Tynee

I'd fire your body man if he can't keep the overspray off the internals of the engine

OK, I'm fired.

[ERASER5]

What pistons are you using? Flat or dish? If dish, what -cc?

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

What pistons are you using? Flat or dish? If dish, what -cc?

They are dished and the ones that were in it. No idea how much, so I can't really estimate compression ratio.

I have the old engine I pulled out on the stand and it's a 4 bolt main 350. I'll rebuild that one later on. Depending on the condition of the block anyway. I've always wanted to build a stroker and I think that block will be a good candidate. Who knows, it may end up under these heads in this truck in a couple years. Or not.

[hgs_notes]

Wish I had more to report than the fact that I just ordered some parts, but that's all I got, plus a lot of excuses. Let's see, the weather (it really has been bad), christmas prep, work, motivation, etc...

I had tried to find a better deal on a used vortec intake, it just never worked out, so I broke down and bought the summit brand dual plane intake for the vortec today. I also ordered intake bolts, gaskets, chrome valve covers + bolts and gaskets, and a carb flange gasket. I didn't want to wait any more because I'm taking most of the rest of the year off to use up my vacation and wanted the parts here in time to work on it.

I've been thinking about using a points style distributor with an electronic upgrade because I don't like how tight the HEI cap is against the firewall. Anyone out there done this? Please comment if you have.

It would be nice to drive this out of the garage in a couple weeks.

[Putter]

Wow. I just found this thread and read every single page. Lots of work going on. Very inspiring, to say the least. Keep hacking away at it. I will keep following the progress. Getting closer to that finish line!!!

[67chevy1series]

this is a nice build glad to see progress now get that jimmy in to the garage

[NTR72GMC]

This build is one of my favorites. Just one question though, are you using anything from the original jimmy that started this thread???? J/K keep up the good work.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by Putter

Wow. I just found this thread and read every single page. Lots of work going on. Very inspiring, to say the least. Keep hacking away at it. I will keep following the progress. Getting closer to that finish line!!!

Thats a lot of reading. Glad you like it.

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

this is a nice build glad to see progress now get that jimmy in to the garage

Probably be Sunday or monday, depending on weather.

Originally Posted by NTR72GMC

This build is one of my favorites. Just one question though, are you using anything from the original jimmy that started this thread???? J/K keep up the good work.

Not really, funny isn't it? Not at all what I expected or planned. The core support, it still has the wheels and tires I originally put on the first one, the rear seat (but that all depends on which one I decide to use), the hood is on my other blazer, maybe the cowl cover. The rest was parted out and the 2nd Jimmy really became the build once I got that.

Looks like selling one of the tops is out of the question until spring. No way to get to them now with all of the snow we've had already. It's snowing now again.

[67chevy1series]

well i know how it feels to have yor project out in the elements and tarps that dont seem to work

[RCbowtie69]

nice work, keep pictures of progress coming

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

well i know how it feels to have yor project out in the elements and tarps that dont seem to work

The tarp actually did quite well, except for being frozen to the truck. We had a few freezing rain storms earlier this winter. I had to let the truck warm in the garage a bit before I could get it unstuck. You can see the tarp still on in one of the pics below.

Originally Posted by RCbowtie69

nice work, keep pictures of progress coming

Thanks, here's "sort of" progress...



Parked by my C-10. I believe this is the only time I've had 2 trucks of this body style together in the garage. Just for a few days though.

[67chevy1series]

well glad you got it in the garage

[1956cameo]

It is starting to shape up! I think you are turning that corner that is in every project where tasks seem to take forever to where they start going really fast.

[hgs_notes]

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

well glad you got it in the garage

Me too.

Originally Posted by 1956cameo

It is starting to shape up! I think you are turning that corner that is in every project where tasks seem to take forever to where they start going really fast.

I wish. Seems for every 2 steps forward I take 1 back.

Like today, Heads are installed, valve train is installed, intake installed. Unfortunately, I had to remove the headers, and the driver side one couldn't really come out because of the oil dipstick. I tried to hold it out of the way, but just as I was finishing the torque sequence, it dropped and busted the dipstick tube. I'm hoping I can get the stub out with out having to take the oil pan off, but I'm not holding my breath.



Checklist (at least what I can think of now):
prime oil pump
Distributor
carb
valve covers
headers/exhaust
spark plugs/wires
power steering pump
water pump
alternator
fan/pulleys
fuel line
radiator hoses
temp sensor
throttle
gas tank filler hose
tranny cooler lines
plug un-used holes
vacuum lines
ground straps

I'm probably forgetting something. If anyone spots something I missed, go ahead and give me a reminder.

[VA72C10]

nice work!