Slick Copper's Build Thread

[treveiger]

I took my 465 in to get it rebuilt this summer expecting it to be at least in the $500 range and after he took the top off he said it just needed a reseal which cost around 150 dollars. Have them look it over it might not be to bad.
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[slick copper]

Hopefully. It may just need a reseal and a new torque converter. Probably $250-$300. But who knows. Figured I may just do the full workup while it's out so no worries.

[treveiger]

Ya that what I figured too, if you check Craigslist you might find a rebuilt one for cheap also. Have you thought of rebuilding it yourself?
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[slick copper]

Originally Posted by treveiger

Ya that what I figured too, if you check Craigslist you might find a rebuilt one for cheap also. Have you thought of rebuilding it yourself?
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I've looked around, but mine has the longer 9" tailshaft, so harder to find. Then you never know about people. "sure it's rebuilt, good as new" then 5miles down the road KERPLUNK! But definately not ready to attempt it myself, even with a good book. Plus I don't have the space or garage to do it in yet. The wife's already been on me about cleaning greasy parts in the bath tub!

[treveiger]

Ya i was afraid with mine thats why I took it in. I hear ya, I got in trouble for getting oil in the floor drain in the shop, but it was trans fluid from my fathers truck not my motor lol.
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[RCbowtie69]

Looking great,you've come along way with this build,nice truck.Keep on truckin'

[slick copper]

Originally Posted by RCbowtie69

Looking great,you've come along way with this build,nice truck.Keep on truckin'

Thanks! Yep, still got a long way to go too, but that's the fun in it I guess.

[71Sleeper]

Whats going on with the tranny? Any updates??????

[slick copper]

Well still trying to get the money together. Got the doghouse of my other 67 sold, so that's giving me a little over half of it. In the meantime I have some other things to work on on it.
Chevelle springs for the rear to drop my rear about 3" (thanks Shawn!)
Whiteface gauge kit and new lense (thanks Jonathan!) Got to get a few more things together to finish those though, haven't started on them yet.
original stainless door trim, needs polished and installed
AnD need to get some parts and things off of the other truck and start selling what I don't need.
Thanks for checking in on me buddy! I'll be sure to post pics of anything I do!

[71Sleeper]

Good to hear that you are still focused. I was just wondering. I am in the process of building up parts and spending money I really don't need to spend right now, but a got an addiction and can't stop. Don't tell the wife or I might be sleeping in the dog house for awhile.

[slick copper]

I might be right there with ya when the credit card bill comes in!

[slick copper]

Well got some progress today! Got my springs and shocks swapped out today. Dropped Copper's rear end 5"!! Now gonna have to raise it back up a little, or drop the front 2" so it's at least level. Here's progress pics for you

[slick copper]

Also pulled my gauge cluster so I can start on redoing my gauges. Wanting to put my Sunpro tach inside the cluster in the factory spot. Need to figure out how to do that (Jonathan feel free to point me in the right direction there! ). Would I need a new printed circuit? I'm thinking yes so the Sunpro tach will fit. I also tried just for giggles shooting "chrome" paint on my old bezel. That was a waste of money! Going to take it back! I'll buy me a new bezel off Ebay (around $56) unless you guys know of somewhere on here to get it cheaper. Here's what it looks like for now......going to be white face when I'm done with blue LED's, orange needle paint, Sunpro tach inside, and a new bezel! !

[VA72C10]

Looks good! I vote drop the front 2" more

[slick copper]

Yeah I do love the way the rear is sitting now! Now I gotta figure out how hard it is to remove, cut, and reinstall the front springs. Is there a thread for that?

[71Sleeper]

yes drop the front 2".

[oldblue1968chevy]

my vote is waiton the coil cutting, drive it with the jeep springs chevelle springs awhile. I liked the look of my jeep springs, but didnt like the ride or hauling abilities.

My vote is stock height, or something like 2" rear drop block/cut coil or 1-2" rear drop stock height

And my opinion on the gauge cluster is repaint the needles etc etc and save for factory tach dash or run a column mounted tach

Only disadvantage to the repro bezels is that you dont get the grey finish around the gauges-you get chrome, I like the 67 68 guage grey cluster

[oldblue1968chevy]

Tell us how much the bed goes down when you stand in the back (if yer a big fella this isnt a fat joke lol)

[slick copper]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

my vote is waiton the coil cutting, drive it with the jeep springs chevelle springs awhile. I liked the look of my jeep springs, but didnt like the ride or hauling abilities.

My vote is stock height, or something like 2" rear drop block/cut coil or 1-2" rear drop stock height

And my opinion on the gauge cluster is repaint the needles etc etc and save for factory tach dash or run a column mounted tach

Only disadvantage to the repro bezels is that you dont get the grey finish around the gauges-you get chrome, I like the 67 68 guage grey cluster

Well to each they're own, but I like the chrome. Wow that rhymes doesn't it! I may still try seeing what putting the coilover shocks back in see what that does for it.
And having a straight six the factory tach won't work (to my knowledge). Why I'm going this route. Should still give me a very nice close to factory looking gauge setup with white faces.
Besides I'm not huge on the everything stock or factory. I love the way these trucks were made and will definately keep some original look and feel to it. But will update, clean-up, and change somethings.

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

Tell us how much the bed goes down when you stand in the back (if yer a big fella this isnt a fat joke lol)

Oh yeah it goes down quite a bit! I'm pretty hefty too! So I may do something different, but like I said might just see what those coilovers do with the chevelle springs.

[Pop's C-10]

Pulling tha front springs is not hard. you could use a pickle fork to seperate tha ball joint , use a coil spring compreser to collapse tha spring..cut one full round off with a cutting disc or resipricating saw. you can get tha pickle fork & compreser for autozone as loaner tools..

[slick copper]

Thanks Pop's C-10! I may do that.
So I guess I would compress the spring, then pop one of the ball joints, then remove and cut?

[71Sleeper]

That would probably be the safest way or use two jacks like I do. One jack on the frame of the truck and one under the arm. Break lose the ball joint and slowly lower the jack under the arm.

[slick copper]

You guys have talked me into it. Gotta get me a ball joint fork now! Not sure when I'll get to this, but I'll be sure to post pics when I do!

[lolife99]

Be careful with a balljoint fork.
They will cut the rubber balljoint boot very easily.

With your truck on jack stands,...unbolt the lower shock mount.
Just back off the lower balljoint nut a few threads, but leave it on.
Place a floor jack under the center of the lower control arm.
Give the SPINDLE a whack with a large hammer.
(don't hit the balljoint)
I have a big sledge hammer with the handle cut down.
It works great.
All you are trying to do is make the balljoint pop off it's taper.
Then remove the nut and lower the a-arm.
Make sure you have the truck high enough on jack stands,... that you can lower the a-arm enough to get the spring out.
The cut spring will go back in much easier.

Look up in the spring pocket.
There is a "D" shaped bracket that the upper spring must set around.
Only cut the bottom of the spring.

Remember,... 1/2 coil equals about 1" of suspension drop.

You may have to hit it several time

[oldblue1968chevy]

I did what lolife did (on new ER balljoints,worked great)

lolife-wouldnt you think new bj rubbers would be good idea anyway?