Boppa's old yeller truck

[Low Elco]

Thanks, I'm hip to the advice. Cut everything loose and hooked straight to battery, noise with truck on. Put a filter in that, quiet! Ok, hooked back to fuse box with filter, noise. Ran out of time at that point. Gonna run a ground to the battery and try that next.
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[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

John, John, John. Poor, Poor John. Have you learned nothing by now? You can't give me a softball over the plate like that! Meat Stick, indeed! Thanks for the Mon. chuckle!

I knew you'd snap that up like fish bait!

[Low Elco]

Must...not...rattle...off...whole...page...of...meat...stick...jokes....

I actually considered a numbered list for a moment, but I thought that'd be overdoing it.

[Xeen]

Ok so there is feedback, this problem is usualy associated with a poor ground or using a gauge of wire that is too small.
How many grounding straps do you have connecting the cab to the frame, there should be 2 minimum.
You will run into grounding problems if you have no grounding straps, or if you didnt remove the paint or powder coat on the cab and frame where the connecter touches them.
I could spend alot of time doing a write up on this but if you want I have unlimited long distance if you want to hit me with your number, first name and a good time to call in a private message I can call you and talk to you about it.

[Low Elco]

I appreciate it. I have 4-ga welding cable sanded and dielectric greased. One core to frame, one cab to frame, one motor to frame, one motor to batt. Have regular strap cab to motor. I think that's it. I may beef that up a bit more. I've done all the way to 900w RMS triamped systems with 8 speakers, but this has been a pain. Radio Is currently grounded to frame. I'm just kinda poking at it, more worried about this vibe now. Good advice, though, I think I'm gonna run more grounds next.
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[Xeen]

I went back and read through your entire build again (3rd time) You obviously dont have a grounding strap issue.

A few tips and tricks.
Run a seperate power block just for your audio equipment and bypass all the factory truck wiring completely, when doing an audio installation clean direct power is king.
Use high strand count wire for both power and ground.
Use a noise filter.
Use a Volt Ohm meter and check all your work.
This will solve the problem.

[Bomp]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Must...not...rattle...off...whole...page...of...meat...stick...jokes....

I actually considered a numbered list for a moment, but I thought that'd be overdoing it.

Word.

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by Xeen

I went back and read through your entire build again (3rd time) You obviously dont have a grounding strap issue.

A few tips and tricks.
Run a seperate power block just for your audio equipment and bypass all the factory truck wiring completely, when doing an audio installation clean direct power is king.
Use high strand count wire for both power and ground.
Use a noise filter.
Use a Volt Ohm meter and check all your work.
This will solve the problem.

Separate power was actually my next move, based on the testing. Here's the kicker, though. Radio has to have key-on hot. Would I be nuts to run the whole shebang , head and amp, through a big relay on the hot side and then run all grounds to the amp and heavy gauge that back to the frame or battery, worst case. It's a pisser, but I guess i'm cool with completely separate power, I just need to find a way to key-on hot this thing. Yes, I could just switch it on at the HU, but if someone forgets, then the 65 year old guy is sitting at the ramp with a boat in the water and a dead truck, not good. Hmmmmm. What do you think of the latest cockamamie scheme?

[jlsanborn]

Where we at on Yeller? Been awful quiet around here.

[Xeen]

Ok so I looked at the wiring diagram on my Kenwood because I thought there might be a seperate signal in to power on option but there isnt, there is only a signal out to power on option for amplifiers. You will need a seperate relay that will hook up to the signal to power on wire from the ignition that will cut power to the dedicated power source when the ignition is off, you can pick up this relay at your local car audio installation business.

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by Xeen

There should be a signal to power on wire built into the HU harness, im checking the wiring diagram on my kenwood to confirm it can be done, I will post again to let you know.

This is a Waaaay custom deal, guy in NJ guts the stock radio and adds a digital tuner, bass boost, backlight, 3.5mm hookup, rca out, etc. Turns on cold, no fulltime hot lead. I'm thinking I'm gonna get some relays at the yard and try it, I've got a key on hot routed by the battery. Thanks for the thoughts, hope you haven't quit on yours!

[Xeen]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

This is a Waaaay custom deal, guy in NJ guts the stock radio and adds a digital tuner, bass boost, backlight, 3.5mm hookup, rca out, etc. Turns on cold, no fulltime hot lead. I'm thinking I'm gonna get some relays at the yard and try it, I've got a key on hot routed by the battery. Thanks for the thoughts, hope you haven't quit on yours!

lol I edited my post above which reflects what you are thinking about using a relay to key on hot before I saw this post.

[Low Elco]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

Where we at on Yeller? Been awful quiet around here.

Well, there's a bit 'o progress! Got the rear cleaned up and resealed and relubed. Boppa got the bolts bent and the blocks made for the drop yesterday, I got it legal and inspected for the year on Monday. Boppa got the bent wheel swapped out and balanced (with .5 oz of weight, no less!) on Sunday, so we should be good to put the nice wheels back on. You might notice we've swapped a few sets. Everyone to a man (and kid) says "looked better with the Rallys on it". Just moving a tad slow, I don't do cold. ( I can, but I'm a real candy-azz about it.) That and fall sports has started, and I'm a coach. Talk about life handing you surprises! Think Buttermaker in the Bad News Bears. So we got some things going on. I have some pics, but I got hijacked by the 10-year old. I'm rolling, I promise. Oh, yeah, found some carb cleaner and found a vacuum leak, its either the heat riser or the carb gasket, I ran out of carb cleaner. I wanna see what happens when we fix that. This thing oughta fry 'em with this 3.73 gear! Thanks for checkin' in on me, jus shakin the bush over here, boss!

[Bomp]

You could get in on this video thing while your re-doing the Yeller stuff. .....action........saw zall rrrrRrrrRRR, then tha big hammer!

[Low Elco]

The thought has crossed my mind- the 10-year old loves his videos, maybe we'll make it a project!
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[Low Elco]

Ok, so I need to update. The computer caught the DOJ virus, thank you russians, there goes $100, but the laptop works now. Ok, truck bidness. Long and short, we still have the vibration. We've literaly replaced everything but the shocks, and theyre next. Found a great DIY shock relocator thread, finally some pics so I could see what the deal is. I will get some parts this week and give that a go. Still need to fix the vac leak, stereo, heater,etc. It's a great life if ya don't weaken! Here ya go-

Our new 3.73! Maan, this thing was crusty. Note the end of the rusted up trailing arm lying on the trailer I cut off. Oy Vey! Guts looked good, though, so I wire brushed 'er and -


Voila! Nice and red. They don't make that primer anymore, shame. Good stuff.


This seemed like a prime time to swap the bent Rally out, so I put Boppa on the case. Don't he look happy?


His handiwork- The new one and tire balanced with only .5 oz. of weight, and the tire guy said it rolled nice and true. That's good, right?


Yours truly and Boppa painting the newly sealed and lubed rearend.

[Low Elco]

So, now we got a rearend. What to do?

Strip it to the frame, that's what!


We split the trailing arms and oh, what we found. we had bolted them together 14 years ago when we knew there was some problems, but wow. This is not the worst of it- big rot here.


So we got some new ones, painted them up and welded 'em up, painted and turned the new brake drums, and got new prothane bushings in the trailing arms.


Boppa complaining about some sort of elder abuse and slave labor, I wasn't really paying attention.


All ready to go, now what do we do?

[Low Elco]

SLAP LEATHER, BABY! Boppa got a set of bolts bent up at the spring shop, and I made an adjustable drop kit. What's that, you ask? You get a bunch of 1/2x2x7" long aluminum bars and bolts good for 2 1/2 inches and drill 2 .783 holes in them centered on 4.250 centers and Voila! adjustable drop! Stack more blocks on till you like it! We have about an inch in right now. Boppa came out and we stabbed that dude in.

These 2 gentlemen are about to rob this convenience store.


Whata ya think? it has a pretty good rake, but we kinda like it. I dunno, it's not really done yet.


I like the drop!


The Bad:Now, we have a good case of Chevy Lean to fix, the vibration is still there, it needs an alignment, but as you can see, we replaced everything but the shocks, and a very experienced guy said that's what he'd throw his rope at. The speedo is waaaaaay outta whack. So, I'm gonna fab up some extenders and order the shocks and the new driven speedo gear next.

The Good: The 3.73 really woke up the truck. It will fry tire from a 15 MPH roll. Seems to really pep it up at highway speed too. Can't wait to get the vacuum leak fixed, that oughta help. I'm off for 10 days over the holidays, so hopefully we'll have progress.

Also wanted to say thanks for all the help and support. I'd be a liar if I said this hasn't been frustrating, and an extreme test of my patience, but I digress. Thanks again, and thanks for playing along!

[jlsanborn]

I'm guessing you found something else you can't leave be?

Great work guys! It's going to look NICE back there and hopefully you've resolved the shimmy. I'd agree on the ralley wheels too. How bout a link to that DIY relocate thread?

[Low Elco]

Ask and ye shall recieve!

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=451200

It's a very good write-up, explains a lot.
We still have the vibration, but we're working on it!

[jlsanborn]

Looks like I was posting right in the middle of your story.

Truck looks awesome!! Bummer about the vibration but hopefully the shocks will make it disappear.

I did find this illustration the other day on driveshaft angles.

[Vic1947]

There was a good article in the January 2013 issue of Car Craft regarding driveline vibrations. Look for Jeff Smith's Ask Anything column. In it, he suggests that most builders look at the driveshaft angle from the side view only, as in the diagram posted by jlsanborn. However, most rearend cases have some pinion offset side to side that should be taken into account. In other words, look at the angles from the top. For instance, if the pinion is offset a half inch to one side, the tranny tailshaft should be offset an equal amount the other way. Careful measurements using the frame as a reference should show whether this is an issue or not.

He also mentioned in the article that driveshaft length and diameter can have an effect. He gave a formula for calculating the rpm at which a harmonic can appear, but unfortunately, I've already passed that issue on to a buddy so I don't have it in front of me. I looked on carcraft.com but they haven't posted anything from the January issue yet. It should be out in a couple of weeks, I'd think. It was a good read, but the driveshaft formula seemed like a bit of a stretch. If it boils down to that, I'd be really surprised. For me, relocating the shocks made the biggest difference.

[Low Elco]

Thanks, in all my research, that's one of the best illustrations I've seen. I started with #1, but perfectly straight is supposed to be bad, due to no rotation on the needle bearings. I shimmed to #2, no soap. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for the pics!

[Bomp]

Like the rake
I have that same little red seat cart!
That vibration thing is proving to be a real bugger. Keep at it. You'll figure it out. Got faith in ya brother.
Glad to see your back and you got things together.

[Low Elco]

Thanks Vic, I had 2 buddies call me on the same day about that CC issue. I'm running the stock track bar. We bought an ECE bar, but we're within 1/16 side/side post lowering, best I can tell. The whole driveline thing's kinda academic, we pulled the shaft and left the motor off and pulled it on a strap up to 65, still vibed. I'm literally down to shocks. EVERYTHING else has been replaced. Time to fab and see.