57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[FAKKY]

Hey joedoh - thx for keeping with me.

I pretty much get your explanation - in theory if I was wiring two new relays (I forgot that PCM wire is ground)... although I'd have to draw it out and go over it 4-5 times ......

What Im not sure is if the FAN #1 and Fan#2 relays in the BP harness are effectively in parallel or whatever. eg Already wired like this. (pic atatched)

I think I would need to remove front and back covers to try and work out how they are tied together or not.

As I will be using #1 FAN for main radiator fan (temperature control) .........

[joedoh]

sorry, i missed that. reading back, fan 1 is for low speed? and fan 2 is for high speed? you can only use that on fans that have a separate low speed and high speed wire (three wires total). if your fan has two wires (power and ground), you can use either fan 1 or fan 2 output from pcm and the fan will run full speed. if you have a fan with 3 wires and two speeds, you will need two relays, which it sounds like you have in the harness? the 12v supply should be in parallel

older BMWs had big giant fan resistors on a 2 wire fan, so that a fan 1 signal went through the resistor, and fan 2 signal bypassed it, making a 2 wire fan a 2 speed fan, but the resistors predictably went bad all the time from the super high current being resisted, 12v at 30 watts us 3600 watts, cutting down the speed took about a 1/4 of that, so the resistor was in the area of 900watts! the resistors on the shelf at radio shack are 1/4 and 1/2 watt, so a fan resistor was huge and packed in sand to dissipate the heat of resistance (thats where the energy goes, 900w turned into heat and 2700 watts goes on to the fan)

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

sorry, i missed that. reading back, fan 1 is for low speed? and fan 2 is for high speed? you can only use that on fans that have a separate low speed and high speed wire (three wires total). if your fan has two wires (power and ground), you can use either fan 1 or fan 2 output from pcm and the fan will run full speed. if you have a fan with 3 wires and two speeds, you will need two relays, which it sounds like you have in the harness? the 12v supply should be in parallel

older BMWs had big giant fan resistors on a 2 wire fan, so that a fan 1 signal went through the resistor, and fan 2 signal bypassed it, making a 2 wire fan a 2 speed fan, but the resistors predictably went bad all the time from the super high current being resisted, 12v at 30 watts us 3600 watts, cutting down the speed took about a 1/4 of that, so the resistor was in the area of 900watts! the resistors on the shelf at radio shack are 1/4 and 1/2 watt, so a fan resistor was huge and packed in sand to dissipate the heat of resistance (thats where the energy goes, 900w turned into heat and 2700 watts goes on to the fan)

Hey Joe.
Yeah I have only a single speed main FAN for radiator/cooling and a single speed condensor fan. Didnt really need to but this DIY fuse block.

The BP fuse block relay DIY has two relays and just says FAN#1 and FAN#2 - doesnt have details about how those relays are configured. So my plan (originally) was to try and do the following

* AC on a dedicated circuit outside of PCM. Single standalone relay
* FAN#1 would be PCM controlled and tied to my single speed main radiator fan.

If I tried to use two relays for the AC/condensor fan (to split like you mentioned ) ... I'd like to use FAN#2 relay .... as otherwise its just sitting there unused. But hard to know how they set it up without tearing it all apart which I will probably do.

All they say is
"Two Fan Relays, an A/C Compressor Relay, and an Ignition Relay"

https://www.bp-automotive.com/produc...i-24x-engines/

<update>

I jumped on the webiste chat room and the guy said ...

"They are parallel. They are not in series."

So I guess that means I could use it ........ except ground would only activate when fan temp reached whatever point I set in PCM ?

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Hey Joe.
Yeah I have only a single speed main FAN for radiator/cooling and a single speed condensor fan. Didnt really need to but this DIY fuse block.

The BP fuse block relay DIY has two relays and just says FAN#1 and FAN#2 - doesnt have details about how those relays are configured. So my plan (originally) was to try and do the following

* AC on a dedicated circuit outside of PCM. Single standalone relay
* FAN#1 would be PCM controlled and tied to my single speed main radiator fan.

If I tried to use two relays for the AC/condensor fan (to split like you mentioned ) ... I'd like to use FAN#2 relay .... as otherwise its just sitting there unused. But hard to know how they set it up without tearing it all apart which I will probably do.

All they say is
"Two Fan Relays, an A/C Compressor Relay, and an Ignition Relay"

https://www.bp-automotive.com/produc...i-24x-engines/

<update>

I jumped on the webiste chat room and the guy said ...

"They are parallel. They are not in series."

So I guess that means I could use it ........ except ground would only activate when fan temp reached whatever point I set in PCM ?

your explanations are finally getting through to me haha.

i will say people think fans need to come on more than they should, on my last e fan I used a set point of 200 degrees, because my thermostat was 190 and a set point below that would have just cycled the fan and thermostat mercilessly. so i wouldnt really worry about a higher set point myself.

[FAKKY]

Well .... Im not great at explaining things I do understand ..... so not surprised I'm confusing you and whoever else is reading.

So if this is just a regular relay (#fan2 -- just grounded by PCM control) - how would I integrate that into the AC circuit.

I drew a diagram based on what you mentioned before. Not sure if its right.

[joedoh]

i was thinking something like this





using two relays isolates the clutch and fan operation, and using 87a from the existing fan relay allows the fan to work in isolation from each discrete "on" signal.

dont make fun of my pink paper, its 1am and my daughter was making christmas cards with construction paper haha.

[FAKKY]

Thanks JoeDoh --- I will try and get my ahead around it .......
the only funny/good part is ........ me and a guy at work who works on home automation stuff were talking about it ...... and we were like --- I dont think you can do it with 2 relays ... needs 3.

So at least we got that far. Lol.

In the binary switch (-) part --- you mean ground one wire to chassis....... and split the other wire to both relays ?

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Thanks JoeDoh --- I will try and get my ahead around it .......
the only funny/good part is ........ me and a guy at work who works on home automation stuff were talking about it ...... and we were like --- I dont think you can do it with 2 relays ... needs 3.

So at least we got that far. Lol.

In the binary switch (-) part --- you mean ground one wire to chassis....... and split the other wire to both relays ?

yep, ground one wire, other to both relays.

[FAKKY]

joeDoh --- thats awesome .... looks so much simplier when someone else does it/writes it down I stepped into each one thinkin...

truck at idle - both off
AC only on (not yet 180)
AC and FAN on

Seems perfect.


The 1st relay ---- you have written high current 12v+ for both pins 87 and 85 (coil side). Obviously both from battery - but one could be a low amp wire still (pin 85/coil) and pin 87 just have the higher amp fused wire right ?

You Da Man - even with your pink paper

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

but one could be a low amp wire still (pin 85/coil) and pin 87 just have the higher amp fused wire right ?

yep! most fans will have ignition there so the fan shuts off with the key. I didnt know how they wired the fan relay in your harness so really thats just extra information. if you have a fan relay in the harness you shouldnt need to worry about anything but the output wire and it goes to 87a on your efan relay.

Originally Posted by FAKKY

You Da Man - even with your pink paper

haha. I used to have 4 different pink dress shirts for work, probably more than any other color. my wife always commented about it.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

yep! most fans will have ignition there so the fan shuts off with the key. I didnt know how they wired the fan relay in your harness so really thats just extra information. if you have a fan relay in the harness you shouldnt need to worry about anything but the output wire and it goes to 87a on your efan relay.




haha. I used to have 4 different pink dress shirts for work, probably more than any other color. my wife always commented about it.

thx man.

Heres where I got with ignition wiring and NSS. Followed a post eric had ... and some chat a while back.

[FAKKY]

Well I "ginny" rigged it one more time but through the proper circuits (relay etc) as eric had said. works like a champ.
Started first time in 'P'. Nothing in 'D' or 'R' etc.



Time to pull it all apart and loom it up and clean it up ...... get fenders on .... and finish a few things then get started on gauges and exhaust.

[FAKKY]

Wel with almost $100 in 2x cut hoeses ..... new ls radiator thermostat, 1.75=>1.5" adapter at radiator end and $20 lost coolant ... I still dont have a working leak free solution here.

Think Im probbaly going to have to pull the radiator and weld a 1.5" pipe where the 1.75" is ..... to shorten that run .... and make a 90 ...

[FAKKY]

See if this gives me more room.
Pulled the radiator off ... cut the 1.75 off and welded in 1.5.

[FAKKY]

Well we may be the slowest truck (build) in the lineup .... but with some luck and all your(s) help .... we still take a step forward .....and will get her done.

Tested with air to 40psi and soap water. Found 2 leaks ... tightened the vlamps some more .... no more leaks.

[FAKKY]

1) I currently have the Engine Harness hooked up and working. Looks like this.



12v battery is 30A fused.
Starter Solenoid goes through NSS and then to 30A relay.
Truck starts only in P=N and runs great.

But Now i need to tie in the EZ harness. I think it would go ....

1) The only power supply wire is the larger red wire labelled SOLENOID POWER -- which I would tie to the starter on the main side (opposite solenoid) for constant 12v.

2) The only other wires to make harness work would be

a)IGN SW IGN wire that would be tied to the IGN switch alongside with the engine/ls harness wire ..... or I guess just the EZ IGN wire - then join the IGN wire of the LS harness to the COIL wire of the EZ harness. Not sure it matters.

b) IGN SW ACC wire for accessories, lights ... so on.

[FAKKY]

#318 post ... you can see where the bracket and AC unit is too wide an high it actually prevented the glovebox from opening.
Fixed that today.




Might have to align just a little later ..... and I'll probably put a face plate over the top gap with a chevy emblem cutout.

[FAKKY]

AC lines done.
Pulling a vacuum now.

[joedoh]

good job! i never invested in ac tools, but should have, could've used them three times in the last year

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

good job! i never invested in ac tools, but should have, could've used them three times in the last year

Yeah I rarely use them oviously - I had them from chasing down a leak years ago on my first truck ......

Coming in useful now.

Side note/question.
How does the locking mechanism work on the hood support hinges on firewall. I bolted these up a few weeks back .... and was playing with them last night and noticed they are fully locked ... when I push down on them .... they dont move. I thought they were just spring tension. Seems not.

[FAKKY]

Wondering if anyone has taken their exhaust outside the frame and run over the rear axle at rear on outside ? Pics ?

If have 2 options because of my fuel tank on passanger side frame rail.

Run both outside of frame.
Run a 90 behind transmission and 90 again and run both down drivers side. Be tight. Might mean running a 90 again somewhere to get both pipes over the axle ..... and maybe a H bridge.

[dsraven]

I have seen them outside the frame, it depends on the room you have between the frame and tires. leave room for heat dissipation or install a heat shield so you don't cook a tire or soften a sidewall while stopped in traffic. one down each side gives you duals out the back.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I have seen them outside the frame, it depends on the room you have between the frame and tires. leave room for heat dissipation or install a heat shield so you don't cook a tire or soften a sidewall while stopped in traffic. one down each side gives you duals out the back.

Thx dsraven.
Good point on the heat shield - didnt even think about it that far back being a problem... but I'd rather be safe.

Ill upload some pics so people can see what I am working with.
I think I will try and get it run inside the frame ..... but when I was under the truck looking at space I was like - wow - sure be easier running it outside
lol.

[dsraven]

maybe if you can clear up some space on one side then go with a larger pipe to accommodate the flow. different sound out the back but that would get it done.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by dsraven

maybe if you can clear up some space on one side then go with a larger pipe to accommodate the flow. different sound out the back but that would get it done.

You mean a 2 into 1 (larger) like a y pipe ?

Something like ...

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/j...xoCb4sQAvD_BwE