S10 Swap how to

[oossuuu754]

Let's see if we can get this ball rolling again. We need about $1900 to get the $5000 goal. Please share this and lets help out Chris. He is making some progress but is still facing a long recovery battle. Please donate here: http://gofundme.com/c49h5mjx8

[oossuuu754]

Updated from Chris' Wife. We still need about $2k to hit the $5k goal

By Jennifer Klapp — Aug 27, 2015 10:45am


So naturally things have changed since the beginning of the week. He is no longer having the skin flap done until they can get this infection in and around his lungs resolved. So tomorrow Chris will be having surgery to have the fluid that developed on the outside of his lungs removed. Then in a couple of weeks once infection is not a worry they will do the skin flap on his elbow.

Every day he is becoming more aware of everything around him. Yesterday I got to tell him about what has happened since he has been in the hospital. How there was a time when we didn't know if he was going to make it through the night. It was a little hard and I don't know how much he understood. Probably more than I believe he understood.

Thank you for all the support and prayers that you all have been sending our direction.

[tlorber]

Does anyone here have a detail or pictures of what you you did for the parking brake? Did you use the S10 bracket, or adapt something else?

Thanks.

[fredscarryall]

I think it would be nice to see Chris's recovery in his own thread on the 1947 to 1965 message board. Or if he has a sense of humor put him in projects and builds.because right now he is a project pushing toward that perfect build. His life.I think if you titled it chris's recovery from a shop fire. More people would be aware of what has happened and what is needed. Start out with pics of the fire. Maybe some pics of him when is ready. Or just updated info on his recovery .That way we can see how is doing withou having to go to the entire s10 conversion thread.i don't know him but he seem like a good guy. I would check this thread everyday and it would remind me to pray for him every day, looks like the last date you had for an update was .the end of august How has he been doing. Speaking from experience he needs to tell him self it wont always be like this .it will get better.I kept telling myself that after having a heart transplant and learning how to walk and talk. Then getting into a head on collision with suburban. I got hit so hard in knocked me out. I was blind for three day and they did not think I would see again. After that I had to learn how to walk a second time. Proved them wrong



QUOTE=oossuuu754;7293630]Updated from Chris' Wife. We still need about $2k to hit the $5k goal

By Jennifer Klapp — Aug 27, 2015 10:45am


So naturally things have changed since the beginning of the week. He is no longer having the skin flap done until they can get this infection in and around his lungs resolved. So tomorrow Chris will be having surgery to have the fluid that developed on the outside of his lungs removed. Then in a couple of weeks once infection is not a worry they will do the skin flap on his elbow.

Every day he is becoming more aware of everything around him. Yesterday I got to tell him about what has happened since he has been in the hospital. How there was a time when we didn't know if he was going to make it through the night. It was a little hard and I don't know how much he understood. Probably more than I believe he understood.

Thank you for all the support and prayers that you all have been sending our direction.

[/QUOTE]

[wibas]

This a great post full of information. I'm doing a similar swap on a 1952 GMC. I have redone some things after I thought they were done. I have relocated the S10 steering column but now I think the brake pedal is too high and too far away from floor board. I looking for some advice on how to solve this.

[Sim6]

Look at post #45. That should help some. Using the s10 pedal Assy. It does sit a little high.

Originally Posted by wibas

This a great post full of information. I'm doing a similar swap on a 1952 GMC. I have redone some things after I thought they were done. I have relocated the S10 steering column but now I think the brake pedal is too high and too far away from floor board. I looking for some advice on how to solve this.

[wibas]

Hey Sim6 that's a good looking truck you are building. You and I are in about the same stage except I'm 3 years in and about half done. With my pedal setup I can slid my foot off the gas pedal and actually be behind the brake pedal. That does not seem safe??????????????????????

[Sim6]

Thanks wibas! I think that depends if you can drive it like that comfortably and safely. The original brake pedal was high I believe compared to the gas pedal. It should be relatively easy to fab something lower.
Jeff

[steve aleve]

I have a question that hopefully someone will be able to help out with. I have a 54 3100 sitting on an S10 frame. it has the stock disc brake setup up front and a blazer axle with the disc brakes in the back. Originally I was going to put a frame mounted hydroboost below the floor so I can keep the firewall clear. I have yet to mount the hydroboost or run my brake lines. My question is, what does it take to convert the stock disc setup to manual brakes? I know I would be losing a benefit that comes with the s10 swap but I just wanted to inquire so that I know my options. I don't know enough about brakes to even know if this question makes sense. Thanks in advance!!

[Oldchevypickup]

Steve - All you need is a non power master cylinder. I have powered 4 wheel disk brakes on my 55 first series. Stops great. Why do you want to go non powered?

[steve aleve]

Originally Posted by Oldchevypickup

Steve - All you need is a non power master cylinder. I have powered 4 wheel disk brakes on my 55 first series. Stops great. Why do you want to go non powered?

Well, to be truthful, I would rather have power brakes but looking at creating a custom mount for the hydroboost on the s10 frame, and all the fab work involved in the pedal, linkage etc. is daunting and it has frozen my project for a few months now. I figured if I went manual I could mount the cab and get the truck running. Then worry about converting back to power later.

[wibas]

I believe if you check around there are master cylinders made to work with disc brakes that are pedal mount and made to be mounted under the floor. I would do about anything to keep my disc brakes.

[rtinniste]

On average following skymangs directions how far back does a sbc get pushed back roughly? I'm just trying to figure out if i can get away with s10 v8 swap motor mounts from jags that run. One less thing to fab so i don't mind spending 50 bucks for mounts if they will work.

Mounts I'm talking about
http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Par...onvsnMnts.html

[wibas]

rtinniste it does not take much to fab motor mounting pads. I had the cab placed on the chassis than bolted some 1/4" or thicker flat plate to the to the original motor mount bolts in the frame. I used 2 1/2" x 1/4" wall square tubing with holes drilled to match motor mounts. I moved the engine around and trimmed the square tubing for height until I liked it. Make sure you know what your steering shaft and exhaust need for room. Sounds kind of involved but all it requires is basic fab skills. I ended with the motor set about 3/4" to the passenger side and about 1/2" clearance between valve cover and firewall. Than fab trans tunnel as needed. Be sure to keep the crank center line parallel to the frame rails.

[fredscarryall]

I got these from amazon for $96 trans dapt 9906. The thing I ran into when using these were easier then fabbing bracket front scratch. If you running a smallblock chevy you really need to have a short water pump, so you have enough room for a fan. You may have a problem with the fuel pump bump sticking out of the block interfering with the bracket. So you will have to put the bracket on the frame and the motor mounts on the block. The problem is that the factory motor mounts on the frame have a nut on the other side that you cant get with a wrench unless you cut a access Hole in the frame like I did on both sides. Nice part is it's not a structure bracket. Just be careful not to cut off to much or drop the nuts in the frame. Then on the drivers side mount. Two hole will have to be ovaled out on the frame to be able to fit the bolts through the bracket. Then you will only be able to go so far back because the passanger head on small block Chevys are offset and will touch the firewall and the driver side headwill be about an inch away. So you may need to do a small notch in the firewall to fit. Un fortuntally dropping a v8 into an S10 with conversion bracket gives enough clearance for everything. But dropping a V8 onto an S10 frame in a advanced design truck requires some work. And isn't just a bolt in. But you may have a few differences because the frames can very a small amount from year to year.

[fredscarryall]

Clearance with a long water pump to the radiator about 4 Inches.

[fredscarryall]

Here is what the bracket looks like bolted up. With v8 conversion S10 headers (patriot h8036) and showing you the firewall clearance.

[fredscarryall]

I used a champion ec180 70s and 80s Toyota Land Cruiser radiator off ebay for $120. It's a 2 row 1 inch core so it cools more efficient then a 4 row. Work perfect for a small block chevy. But it has 1 1/2 inlet and outlet.

[fredscarryall]

Here is what it look like in the truck. I had to Cut the cross brackets, bottom of the radiator surround and welded in a piece of angle iron. Just have to weld in a bracket the connects the frame to the bottom of the surround. The radiator has enough clearance room with the hood on.

[fredscarryall]

Another pic

[rtinniste]

Originally Posted by fredscarryall

I got these from amazon for $96 trans dapt 9906. The thing I ran into when using these were easier then fabbing bracket front scratch. If you running a smallblock chevy you really need to have a short water pump, so you have enough room for a fan. You may have a problem with the fuel pump bump sticking out of the block interfering with the bracket. So you will have to put the bracket on the frame and the motor mounts on the block. The problem is that the factory motor mounts on the frame have a nut on the other side that you cant get with a wrench unless you cut a access Hole in the frame like I did on both sides. Nice part is it's not a structure bracket. Just be careful not to cut off to much or drop the nuts in the frame. Then on the drivers side mount. Two hole will have to be ovaled out on the frame to be able to fit the bolts through the bracket. Then you will only be able to go so far back because the passanger head on small block Chevys are offset and will touch the firewall and the driver side headwill be about an inch away. So you may need to do a small notch in the firewall to fit. Unfortunately dropping a v8 into an S10 with conversion bracket gives enough clearance for everything. But dropping a V8 onto an S10 frame in a advanced design truck requires some work. And isn't just a bolt in. But you may have a few differences because the frames can very a small amount from year to year.

Dude first off thank you this was the info I was looking for.
And i agree if i can buy the mounts I'd rather do that saves time from having to fab them. Short water pump was going to go on regardless i have a spare brand new short water pump from my dads c10 build. i was planning on notching fuel pump clearance on the frame seems like everyone has to do that. And yea those motor mount bolts are a pain ask me how i know i ended up just drilling the heads off on both mounts luckily the ends all fell out of the frame.
Main thing was i wanted to make sure the motor mounts will push the motor back far enough to the firewall to clear a fan with a short water pump. So ill order up the jags that run mounts gives me 3/4" side to side adjustment which should help with snaking the steering linkage in there.

Now another question i know s10 headers will work i also read somewhere that Camaro exhaust manifolds fit? How about block huggers i can get a pair of headman blockhuggers for a decent price.

[47owner]

Great information. I plan to use the 4.3 V6 that comes with the S10, do I have to make a lot of mods besides moving it back 7"?

[fredscarryall]

I think with block hugger the outer header pipes and exhaust flange might be to fat. You can always get a painted set from jegs mock it up and if it doesn't work out, they have a good return policy. How about ram horn exhaust manifolds. I have not tried them but you can get them used dirt cheep.

[Clay54]

Originally Posted by skymangs

Now we get to the meat and potatoes of how this build works. Attached you will see my frame swap cab stands, complete with measurements and pics so they can be duplicated for your build. The following schematic is for 47-50 cabs. These were center mount cabs, you will need to weld a 6"x6" 1/4" plate on the bottom of the floor on each side to re-enforce the floor for the new cab stands.

If you have a 51-54 cab, you will need to remove 1/2" from the "above frame" portion of the rear cab stands and add a 1/2" delron spacer above the stock S10 body mount (this fits between the factory floor braces)

I bend the lower legs out at a 15deg. angle to decrease stress on the side of the frame

both these use the stock S10 body mount bushings above the cab stands.

In the above post, Chris has stated to remove 1/2" from the stand if you have a 51-54 cab and use a 1/2" delron spacer. In May, before the accident, I was talking with Chris via e-mail and he stated he was not using the delron any longer and was using an early camaro radiator mounting and gave me the link that shows the item.

ww.ebay.com/itm/70-71-72-73-74-75-76-77-78-79-80-81-Camaro-Radiator-Mount-Isolators-Cushions-NEW-/4008265526

Has anyone used these and/or what do you know about these? Thanks, Clay

[Clay54]

Well the link didn't post.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-71-72-73-...1fd12d&vxp=mtr