1970 VA Longbed Project

[VA72C10]

When I was leaving, Jason was finishing up welding the rockers and a small patch needed between the new rockers and the PO's cab corners to perfect those. Also was going to cut out a few small rust areas and weld in patches. He got the last main support piece welded in on the passenger side from where we replaced the rear corner of the floor.

Decided to use a weld in driver's side cab support like we did on the passenger side since the slip on (tri-plus) doesn't fit as close as we'd like and wouldn't match up to the other side....gotta order that now and sell the slip on to someone else willing to go that route....

[0331grunt]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

....gotta order that now and sell the slip on to someone else willing to go that route....

What's the biggest problem with this? I haven't started on any of the patch panels yet, but might be interested in it.

Wish I could make progress like you are. Guess it helps to have a shop and someone to help you!! Looking good, tho. Glad you got the problem worked out.

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by 0331grunt

What's the biggest problem with this? I haven't started on any of the patch panels yet, but might be interested in it.

Wish I could make progress like you are. Guess it helps to have a shop and someone to help you!! Looking good, tho. Glad you got the problem worked out.

the slip on panel leaves a gap to allow for water to drain. The panel fits fine but since I did a replacement, not slip on, on the passenger side, it looked too different. I have slip on supports for both sides. If you want them, pm me.

[0331grunt]

pm sent..

[brian69longbed]

hey man your making the rest of us look bad with all this progress ha ha

[VA72C10]

I'll take some pictures of the cab process tomorrow and hopefully have a few more things accomplished. Waiting on some parts right now to get this thing on the ground and rolling

[Twisted78SS]

Looking very good.. I just started on my 72 short wide frame. Reading through the thread has helped answer a few of the questions I was concerned with. So moving the U bolts around a bit solved the notch interference issues?

Thanks,

Drew

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by Twisted78SS

Looking very good.. I just started on my 72 short wide frame. Reading through the thread has helped answer a few of the questions I was concerned with. So moving the U bolts around a bit solved the notch interference issues?

Thanks,

Drew

Some of them, but not all...I am going to move the trailing arm mounts (space them out 1 1- 1/4") or the entire trailing arm crossmember to get the rear centered back in the rear wheel well...have to test fit the bed to do this so it will be a few days....I want the rear wheels centered instead of forward as happens when you lower a truck over 4-5"

[PBFAB.COM]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Some of them, but not all...I am going to move the trailing arm mounts (space them out 1 1- 1/4") or the entire trailing arm crossmember to get the rear centered back in the rear wheel well...have to test fit the bed to do this so it will be a few days....I want the rear wheels centered instead of forward as happens when you lower a truck over 4-5"

I have some input for finding the center-line without having to install/remove the bed.

Just take a measurement from a bed mounting hole to the center of the rear inner wheel tub... transfer this measurement to the chassis using the corresponding bed mount's hole. You will have some room to adjust the bed fore and aft... but not more than 3/8" or so.

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by porterbuilt

I have some input for finding the center-line without having to install/remove the bed.

Just take a measurement from a bed mounting hole to the center of the rear inner wheel tub... transfer this measurement to the chassis using the corresponding bed mount's hole. You will have some room to adjust the bed fore and aft... but not more than 3/8" or so.

Thanks, I've been pulling measurements to make sure my air tank compressors, etc will clear crossmembers and the wheel tubs, etc...but didn't think about doing that in this instance...guess that's why you get paid the big bucks

[VA72C10]

Got a question for those following along.....I am thinking of another mod with all the smoothing I am doing (door handles, stake pocket, one piece windows, gas cap, antenna, wiper cowl, emblems, trim, marker lights, firewall, tailgate handle,....

I also had jason fill the gap between the rocker and cab corner so that seam is smoothed...


Do you think I should cut off the pinch weld on the rockers? We'd end up reinforcing the cab corners and would weld the inner and outers together and add metal where needed to make a smooth transition on the bottom. Just thinking that it might add to the custom/smooth look of the truck.

thoughts???

Here's a truck that shows the pinch weld (below the door) and then a quick paint job where I shaved it



Shaved pinch weld

[Twisted78SS]

I like the look, any idea of how much time or trouble it will take you to get that affect?

I am interested in how your doing your tank and compressor mounting as well, I had better go back over the thread if you covered it already. I have 2 3gal. tanks and two compressors. Not sure if I need 2 of each, or maybe split them between my two projects. - thoughts?

[0331grunt]

I think it's one of those "Might as well..." moments! I say it looks good.

[gcburdic]

[VA72C10]

Originally Posted by Twisted78SS

I like the look, any idea of how much time or trouble it will take you to get that affect?

I am interested in how your doing your tank and compressor mounting as well, I had better go back over the thread if you covered it already. I have 2 3gal. tanks and two compressors. Not sure if I need 2 of each, or maybe split them between my two projects. - thoughts?

Gonna take a couple hours...it will be under 100 total labor...probably closer to 60 or so if I do the final grinding.

I am mounting one 5 gallon tank behind where the gas tank mounts (I have the room since it's a longbed) finished the mounts last night. Ended up flipping the tank from the way I first had it to have the bungs for the air lines facing up to avoid water issues. I will be mounting both compressors at the very rear of the frame, one on each side, close enough to run the leader hoses directly into the tank to save on fittings and possible locations of leaks.

On your project, I'd do both. One comp and one 3 gallon would lead to the compressor constantly being on.....and waiting for it to fill if you were playing with buttons on the street or at a show....
If I was running two and not running the frame mounted battery box like I am, I would place the tanks behind the cab on the flat part of the framerails and then mount the compressors behind them directly plumbed in. I have seen others do this and it fits well there and looks nice from underneath as well.

Originally Posted by 0331grunt

I think it's one of those "Might as well..." moments! I say it looks good.

One of many so far on this build

Originally Posted by gcburdic

So does almost everyone else I put up a poll and the vote so far is 15 to 2 for doing it.... I had already made my mind up in actuality...just wanted to make sure I wasn't crazy to do it

[VA72C10]

Went over for an hour or so this evening. Got the trailing arms unbolted, centered them in the notches, and measured the bed. BINGO. Exactly centering the rear in the notches will EXACTLY center the wheels in the rear wheelwells.

It's going to take a while to drill out the rivets in the trailing arm brackets, but it will be worth it. Looks like 1 1/2" spacer with the brackets flipped will work perfect as well as bring the angle back closer to factory. I cut some 2X4 to 6" to end up putting behind the brackets and mocking up once I get all the rivets drilled out and get the brackets mocked up. That will tell me for sure if the 1 1/2" will work. If so, I'll order some blocks.

[Hart_Rod]

Originally Posted by VA72C10

Went over for an hour or so this evening. Got the trailing arms unbolted, centered them in the notches, and measured the bed. BINGO. Exactly centering the rear in the notches will EXACTLY center the wheels in the rear wheelwells.

It's going to take a while to drill out the rivets in the trailing arm brackets, but it will be worth it. Looks like 1 1/2" spacer with the brackets flipped will work perfect as well as bring the angle back closer to factory. I cut some 2X4 to 6" to end up putting behind the brackets and mocking up once I get all the rivets drilled out and get the brackets mocked up. That will tell me for sure if the 1 1/2" will work. If so, I'll order some blocks.

Go to Lowes and buy yourself a $20 air chisel. You'll save yourself a lot of time AND drill bits.

R/

[0331grunt]

That is looking good! Keep it up!

[VA72C10]

The cab is completely stripped....I just realized looking in this picture that I still have to take out the brake pedal because I'm doing a frame mounted one w/ booster now. The e-brake is gone and the gas pedal is a lokar one with the eliminator style bracket so the line will be hidden and not in the firewall.

[VA72C10]

Got the trailing arm crossmember painted up. Will be drilling the holes once the motor and tranny are mounted so I can make sure the alignment is perfect.

[VA72C10]

Mocked up the lower bag brackets I bought from Jlaird. Going to wait to bolt them the rest of the way up until the bags are mounted to the crossmember and the lower arms are installed....then I can use a template to see where to drill the lower holes for the bags.

[VA72C10]

Went ahead and started cleaning the tranny today. Scraped off the majority of the gunk, wiped it down, then sprayed it with easy off and left it on a shelf with a pan underneath to catch everything

[VA72C10]

Got new motor mounts from Mike when I picked up the rear. Found out after some confusion on my end that the mounts I had were V6 mounts. Went ahead and checked these to make sure they fit. Now I will clean them up and grind them smooth because I will be painting them body color.

[VA72C10]

Did a little grinding on the cab as well tonight. Got a lot more to do but it's looking good.

Rockers getting done


Cleaning up the latch area getting ready to shave it for the bear claw latches in the door. The stud for the latch will go here now.


Here is a patch Jason did. Found some weak metal around the driver's footwell area so we cut it out. He made a patch because we didn't need that whole patch that's sold. Needs a little more grinding by me but almost there and looks good in person.

[VA72C10]

Here's the rollers I got...off a newer chevy...not much to look at now...but they were 20 for 4 and will make good rims for paint to roll it around.



Amazing how much room. Easily cleared the caliper on the 12" rotors...