1952 Chevy Vette Farm Truck Build

[FarmerSid]

A few of the C4 rack.

[FarmerSid]

I had a few more ot the rack when I modified it but they turned out like crap and can't see anything. I suck at taking pictures. Hope this gives you all an idea.

[FarmerSid]

Went and took a few more so you can see the pins that had to be removed. These are after I rotated the rack.

[FarmerSid]

Who should I get in contact with to change the thread title? I'd like to change it to "1952 Chevy LSX Corvette C4 Farm Truck Build"

[Nut Case]

FarmerSid Thanks for the clocking data. My head is bowed and bloody, I did know about the "home made" rotisserie. I saw one on Bams site that he used two engine stands which is my plan once I launched. Great work and great pic's. Thanks NC

[T bone]

Hi Sid,
We're you able to change the thread name? I haven't found the new one if so..
Any new progress?

I have been pouring over the drawing / images you posted of the IFS and translating to my project. Could you remind me of the material dimensions you used for the cross member. It looks like 2x4 tubing (what thickness). Also, what is that lower control arm mount made of?? Was that solid then drilled and tapped or some sort of tube stock?

One more question... What is the outer measurement of the Dana 44 bat wing? I'm using the 33 in the rear and not seeing the same fit you have.
Thanks for blazing the trail and the inspiration.

[FarmerSid]

Been a bit guy's. Had a great vacation at the lake. Never long enough. I haven't found out to contact to get the thread name changed yet.

The cross member is 2X4 3/16". The LCA mount was made out of solid bar stock. It is 1 1/8" diam. drilled and tapped for 16 mm bolts. I made new steel bushings for the 16 mm bolt.

The D44 batwing is 37 3/8" C to C at the mounting points.

What measurements are you getting T bone?

[not2oldchevy]

Angle mill your ex manifolds 10 thousands and they will work perfect.

[48 GMC BURB]

Sid
Looking good ! Shannon has been working on mine while I am out of the country..Why did you shorten the rack ? and what size wheels are you going to use ?

[FarmerSid]

Originally Posted by 48 GMC BURB

Sid
Looking good ! Shannon has been working on mine while I am out of the country..Why did you shorten the rack ? and what size wheels are you going to use ?

I didn't shorten the rack. Just rotated it so that the fittings are facing forwards instead of straight up. I plan on running 18" wheels.

[FarmerSid]

Originally Posted by not2oldchevy

Angle mill your ex manifolds 10 thousands and they will work perfect.

Never thought of that but I think I'd have to take more than 10 thou off in order to bring the flanges 1" closer to the block.

[not2oldchevy]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Never thought of that but I think I'd have to take more than 10 thou off in order to bring the flanges 1" closer to the block.

Took 10 off mine on angle and they cleared frame perfect.

[FarmerSid]

Not much being done due to lack of time. I did get a complete wiring harness for my L33 5.3. Think I'm gonna leave it for now and concentrate on the cab. I already redid the trans tunnel but have to redo the firewall. Mega hours into it but that was done when I was first learning to do sheet metal work. I already widened the recess but have to make it wider for the valve covers.

One question I do have is in regards to smoothing the door openings in the cab. Specifically where the drip rail is spot welded to the door opening. Should I finish it by welding, seam sealer or body filler?

[FarmerSid]

Here's one of the firewall and the mods I need to do.

[Advanced Design]

Sid, I will certainly defer to experienced body guys on your question about the drip rail. Guessing most are finished with body filler. Seems welding the grinding would be tough to make it better than it is now.

You need the clearance on the firewall for the transmission?

[FarmerSid]

I need the clearance for the valve covers. The drivers side is OK but the passenger side is about 1/4" or less from the fire wall. The recess can be lowered a bit too.Gotta find someone that is good with a bead roller to give me a hand. Nsane hotrods has some awesome firewall kits but the exchange rate is in the tank along with shipping.

[Advanced Design]

Ok thanks, I need to verify my clearance too before getting mine finalized. Iceburgh clearanced his. Alaska gasser used old valve covers inset in the firewall for clearance that looked really good.

I've been noticing the exchange rate and shipping is expensive for our Canadian members. Wonder if Welder series has anything for firewall?

[FarmerSid]

Didn't see anything at Welder series. I have a bead roller but have to figure out what dies to use to. Would like to make the inset rounded as opposed to square. More stockish looking.

[65sub]

Hi FarmerSid. First thank you for the tutorial on the corvette rack, I'll be doing that to mine later. Second a suggestion for the firewall recess. Instead of widening the edges, cut out the entire recess. Cut it in half top to bottom and add a 2" strip in the center. Trim the hole in the firewall to fit the wider recess. Weld it all back together. It will look factory just a bit wider

[99 to Life]

gotta luv the subtleties in the modification. I second 65sub.

[oldman3]

X3, great ideal...Jim

[lower50's]

Good luck on the fire wall.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by 65sub

Hi FarmerSid. First thank you for the tutorial on the corvette rack, I'll be doing that to mine later. Second a suggestion for the firewall recess. Instead of widening the edges, cut out the entire recess. Cut it in half top to bottom and add a 2" strip in the center. Trim the hole in the firewall to fit the wider recess. Weld it all back together. It will look factory just a bit wider

Simply brilliant idea!

[FarmerSid]

Hey all! Bit of an update but not much. It's something though. That's what I did to the fire wall already 64Sub. Great minds think a like. Just not stuck on the look now. I wondering now if I may have to raise the engine and move it back a bit so I have clearance between the rad and fan. I have about 3" now. Not sure if I should put a fan in front of the rad or not. That would enable me to have the engine as low as possible. The steering rack sits higher on the front cross member than the MII setups. Right now, the rack is pretty much centered between the balancer and block. Is there a rad that fits in the stock rad frame but positions it farther ahead?

I did get a complete, and I mean complete, wiring harness, PCM, gas pedal, TAC module, brake switch and both fuse panels from a 04 GMC that had a 5.3. From head light to tail light.

If anybody wants to chime in and offer suggestions on modifying the harness, please do.

[FarmerSid]

Put the 2010 Camaro manifolds in the mill and angle milled them. Thanks to a clever mind here that gave me the idea. The engine is not currently in the frame for a test fit but my measurements show that they will pull in 1/2" closer to the block. I took off 3 degrees for those that may have to do the same. May have to take a bit more off but worried about taking too much off. What do you think?