Project Orange Crush (57 3100)

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by lower50's

Happy Birthday

_i_i_i_i_i_i_i_i_i_
{.........................}
{--------------------}

It's a birthday cake!? lol

That "cake" and your confusion over whether it actually was one just sent some coffee flying

II Slow awesome cars love the fox body pic can't say we will be anywhere near your speed but I have a grudge match against a buddies cuda I don't plan to lose

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Oh boy page 15

Heres another picture of the stroker 1.6 roller rockers

[ptc]

Originally Posted by Valarius_Starchaser

Here's a picture for you too. I can't help but wish the Nova was put on hold for my truck though but that's how things go I suppose fathers projects take precedence over sons

Well especially since its FATHERS DAY weekend..... We get special attention at least 1 time a YEAR!!!!

Enjoy!!!

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Fair enough PTC

couple more pictures got the mouse in the nova and now we have a rat to tear into for his 67 elco we have the city on our butts so all three need to be running before the end of the month

This is another 454 with the same 781 heads no head work done stock rotating assembly only 60k on it though throwing a mild cam and some bearings at it along with a good cleaning should make some quality low end torque got it all stripped and cleaned/bagged last night WORK WORK WORK WORK

[Valarius_Starchaser]

fellas I have entered wiring HELL

This is the stock harness from a 95 1500 4wd with a 4L60E that I picked up to strip down and convert into a trans controller for my 4L80E the connectors are the same for the two units but there is a few wires that need deleted and some that need moved nothing to bad as there is plenty of diagrams available


Melting the pass through goo off the wires

AHHHHHHH

trans connector



PCM connectors

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Trans end all done and loomed

This is likely more wires then a stock truck would have had total

Jeep steering shaft to solve my steering angle issue (I need to get a new gearbox to make this work unfortunately

Dropped the cluster in

Steering column in man the inside of my truck is a hot mess

[II_Slow]

You and me both!


Mine is about 40% complete, but I went with the Guard Dawg keyless ignition system and I can't get it to play nice. I'm convinced it is defective, and their tech support is convinced I have something wired wrong. Time will tell!

I'm not at all worried about the wiring. I'm an electrical engineer so it's not an issue all for me, but I can see where completely wiring a project from scratch could be hugely intimadating to someone with very little knowledge or training on this stuff (not saying you - just generalizing). Sometimes you think you know how something works, until you try to wire it up. Stuff like how the blinker/brake lights circuit really works, how the control circuit works that cycles the A/C compressor and triggers the electric fan to run, how the wipers return to the park position, in my case how the overdrive and lock-up circuits work, etc.

My biggest issues with the wiring act more with the mechanical side of it than electrical - how to feed the circuits through the firewall, what connectors to use, where to locate the terminal blocks, etc. It's so crowded under the dash and ackward to get to. Just do everthing you can off the truck and solder all of the connections. Avoid crimped fittings anywhere you can.

[Kim57]

Looks very confusing.
I don't have the courage to do that.
Kim

[ptc]

Originally Posted by II_Slow

You and me both!

I'm not at all worried about the wiring. I'm an electrical engineer so it's not an issue all for me, but I can see where completely wiring a project from scratch could be hugely intimadating to someone with very little knowledge or training on this stuff (not saying you - just generalizing).

Good to know WE ALL got an (EE) engineer in the house now for some electrical help when needed.... !!!

Ive been doing electrical for 30+ years but there are still those times when you are trying to make one ELEC thing work with another ELEC thingy and they dont like each other....

TTYL!


Looking GOOD VAL!!!! keep it up!

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Glad you guys are so confident my head is hurting just figuring my ignition system with the neutral safety switch setup

[ptc]

Originally Posted by Valarius_Starchaser

Glad you guys are so confident my head is hurting just figuring my ignition system with the neutral safety switch setup

Since you are doing it from a pretty basic starting point you should make a line diagram of each wire by color and number them with the tape on numbers and that way you know what has been completed. at the end you'll have a complete 1-line diagram of YOUR TRUCK for any troubleshooting you may have to do in the future. (see attached example)

[Valarius_Starchaser]

More progress on the harness tonight soldered a ton of splices and crimped terminal ends on for all the HEI and ignition switch connectors as well as the starter solenoid stuff.

Really not far from firing this thing up need radiator mounted and filled and some exhaust hung I did see that my intake has a large hole in the front china wall where I didn't get enough gasket maker DOH so tear that off again set base timing and give her hell for break in how many gallons you think this thirst girl will need to run for 30 minutes at 2000RPM?

Also what weight oil is really recommended looking at a lot of guys saying the most expensive SAE30 you can find and some say the cheapest not sure what to do on this because it all gets thrown out after first break in anyhow

what do you all think I should run for an inline BAT+ to fuse block Main Fuse I have some 45s laying around from the Nova but I don't know if that is large enough to run the PCM,DRAC and all the lights with a prospected heater and stereo in the future nay thoughts? 80A?

Sorry no real picture worthy progress gentlemen just a wall of text

[lower50's]

Oh I hate when Electrical thingy's don't like each other!!
5 Gallons? lol
I go with cheap oil 5W30 when I put my motors back together. But what ever you are comfortable using.
I have a 100A circuit breaker on my Jeep never had a prob I would go with 80A.

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by lower50's

5 Gallons? lol

To much? not enough? I really just plain don't know only V8 car/truck this hopped up I've driven is the Nova and thats a small block so no comparison I'm sure

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Man oh man gentlemen I am on a downhill run with this motor I installed the pistons upside down fixed that and had to reseal my intake again (which I did tonight) went to find TDC to set my distributor in and I'm having a hard time being confident with how I put the timing chain in I feel like I put it in 180 degrees off not thinking its a tooth off or anything just backwards as in both timing marks pointing upward

Anyone have a way to confirm if it was set up correct without taking the whole front cover off? My thought is this

The intake valve will only open once (at TDC) or near it anyhow correct? so if the intake valve begins to open and the piston at that point is near TDC and then shortly begins to fall as the intake valve hits full open is that TDC and my timing chain installed correctly?

If nobody can say a definitive way to know without removing the cover I suppose I will do that but really don't want to....

This motor will be the death of me before long with how much I have done wrong on it I must have really been sleep deprived when building it because the stoker went off without a hitch and broke in fine...

[lower50's]

Honestly even tho it's a BB at 2000 rpm it is still basically idle (no load) I would think it will burn less than a gallon but I would have 5 gallons or so to make sure it does not suck air. I believe the dots should be pointing at each other. The intake valve should start to open at or a few deg before TDC and should be closed just before BDC. Good luck with the timing

[ptc]

Gallon of gas should be good....

Take the cover off and check it.... not worth ramming valves into pistons!

and use the Kendall Liquid Titanium oils, they have the MOST ZDDP zinc in them than any other oil and you can get it for like $3-5 a qt....



GT-1 High Performance with Liquid Titanium is formulated to provide excellent wear protection, to minimize the formation of sludge and varnish, and to resist viscosity and thermal breakdown, even in severe service. It also protects against rust and bearing corrosion, and is highly resistant to foaming. All viscosity grades are fortified with our exclusive Liquid Titanium additive technology for extra protection against engine wear. The Liquid Titanium additive enhancement provides increased engine protection by forming a strongly bonded titanium shield on the surface of critical engine parts, which reduces friction and wear and helps extend engine life. GT-1 High Performance with Liquid Titanium, SAE 20W-50, also contains a boosted level of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) additive to provide additional wear protection and enhanced oxidation resistance for use in the most demanding applications. It is particularly recommended for use in turbocharged engines and in high-performance engines with flat-tappet camshafts, especially during the critical break-in period

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by ptc

Take the cover off and check it.... not worth ramming valves into pistons!
[/I]

I called a local engine builder he said if I put both marks pointed to the top it wouldn't matter and it would still fire and line up correctly the reason that people get them pointed at each other is to make damn sure they are lined up and not a tooth off he said with such a high lift cam when the engines actually running I could end up smashing valves into the piston even though it all cleared when spun by hand if it were on tooth off

Just looking to see if there's a definitive these are the things you look at and where they should be when the motor is at TDC or if we think I should just take the cover off and visually inspect....

I think I will just take the cover off

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Now thats the kind of stuff I was looking for ptc so does it not require any ZDDP additive or should I dump in a few ozs? Any numbers by 3rd parties to back up the actual ZDDP content?
look whats sitting on my desk now

Finding for the straight 50W it has slightly less ZDDP content than the 20w50 at 980ppm but then it has 100ppm of the titanium that is supposed to form a wear barrier and 890ppm of phosphorus not sure if that will work well I see guys say 1200ppm of ZDDP which would be zinc and phosphorus together so I'm good right?



Also having issues finding a timing tab locally due to having the 7 inch damper summit has them but not finding anything and don't care to pay for shipping on that looks like its time to order those rear rims up

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Took off the front cover and was rewarded with this sight now I can sleep well at night...



Should have trusted my past self to have not botched it up but at the same time future me would have been upset if I had and past self was being incompetent that all make sense?



electrical progress consists of adding a HEI fuse to the fuse panel with the correct Delphi pins that I got from work working at a dealership has a few perks. I'm interested to understand exactly how thie ignition system on this truck works the back of my ignition switch says it has an ACC and START location but only has a single click as if it went into my ACC position am I needing a push button to start or am I missing something any info will I need a different switch or a push button? Also can this switch even be safely operated with a 12V system... I feel like the response to many if not all of these questions will be "youtube"

Also got some more done on the elcamino big block project cam bearings in and mains gauged and torqued no time to breathe in my day lately and I love it!

[Valarius_Starchaser]

continued on with wiring hell today got all of the trans harness done "yippee" as well as most of the ignition system except the alternator not really even sure how to do it will need to find a diagram for it somewhere and the gauges not sure what exactly to do with the rear of the 57 gauge cluster's oil pressure gauge was hoping to use it but not so sure now

Also got the trans and motor all bolted up the started bolts that I go are to long "who ever heard of that?" I couldn't find any that were laying around that fit any suggestions? I've heard never not to use the knurled bolts on a starter but now I'm thinking I may need to

Got the accessories all bolted up as well as the trans output seal now all thats left on that is to get the cooler lines sorted out

We are getting close to break in time here fellas!

will have some pictures tomorrow fellas

[Kim57]

Sounds like good progress.
Kim

[II_Slow]

The accessory position may be CCW one click from the Off position.
Acc-Off-Ign-Start was the standard on older vehicles.

[Valarius_Starchaser]

II slow it appears to only have two positions for the key to turn and stop in an off and ACC on the back it has Off-ACC-Ign1/Ign2-Start not sure if I have the Ign and Starts all correct or how it would engage them...

funny how thats the hard part for me and burning the chip and getting a dip switch sorted was the easy part seems backwards to me

My burned chip can be seen inside the housing

slot on the PCM for it

All secured down

Dip switch set to my tire size

And the DRAC Module that calculates Vehicle speed and if I had an electronic speedo would control that as well

[II_Slow]

What key switch are you using?
Do you have a picture of the backside (lugs)?

More than likely, one of the two IGN positions will be hot in start position, and the other off in start position. The distributor/ignition needs power on during the starter engagement - all other stuff needs to be off for full current to the starter).