'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[BlueJeep]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I don't seem to get shrinkage from grinding. Maybe I use less pressure. I have been taking the welds down to near-surface level with a grinding wheel, then hitting them with the flap disc, then 80 grit DA.

The key to avoiding warpage starts with the weld itself. On thin stuff I tac-tac-tac, jumping around to avoid too much heat in one area. It ends up looking like the steering column pass-through pic in my previous post before grinding. Not the prettiest to look at but it all gets ground smooth anyway.

I believe my warpage likely comes from the welding, as there was very little heat generated by my grinding technique.

I've recenty purchased the ebfabman videos, and tried to use what I saw there. That was, tacks all around about 1" or so apart, then tac, tac, tac...but next to each other not jumping around. I'll try more of the jumping around, is that what you did when creating the tahoe? I'm assuming that since you didn't mention it, you don't hammer and dolly the welds during or after.

[woodwright]

I do it the same way. I tack it all around about an inch apart, and then fill in the rest with little tacks alternating around. When I shortened my long bed down to a shortbed it warped the hell out of it.

[Frizzle Fry]

I only hammer/dolly as needed, which is rare. Yes this is the same thing I did on the Tahoe.

Woodwright, I'm assuming you switched to this method after getting poor results? And have you seen an improvement?

[woodwright]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

I only hammer/dolly as needed, which is rare. Yes this is the same thing I did on the Tahoe.

Woodwright, I'm assuming you switched to this method after getting poor results? And have you seen an improvement?

This is the way I have always done it. I wonder if my welding skills or my welders might be part of it. My mig is a small flux-core lincoln with a wire speed knob and 4 settings instead of an amperage knob. On one setting it doesn't have enough penetration, but on the next setting it blows through. My tig is a squarewave 175 thats about 12 years old. It doesn't have alot of hours, but I think it might need adjusted. I probably could practice more too.

The worst place it happened was when I welded up my side marker lights. It actually buckled the panel in a few spots.

[ERASER5]

Flux Core may be the problem. SMAW will give you better results. With the proper choice of wire, the welds will be easier to grind.

[38chevyhotrod]

Frizzle, what thickness of wire do you use for the sheet metal. And what thickness do you use on the frame work. Maybe that makes the difference.

[Frizzle Fry]

It does make a difference. And with flux core you can only go down to .030. I use .023 on sheet and .035 to .045 on plate.

[Jvsapp]

so back to the build.... any updates from your paper cutouts?

[Frizzle Fry]

I've made the plates but first I need to patch up the inner fender while I have access. I made a single piece with a compound curve and stretched flange to fit the front side of the shock tower/fender area. It worked out really nicely. Pics to come.

[Frizzle Fry]

Still needs some clean-up/finishing work on some of the welds (need a new die grinder...) But here's how it sits now.

From this:


To this:

[6772owner]

That is just amazing work FF, cant wait to see the engine sitting in the 'rails again.

[38chevyhotrod]

This is way to nice, damn this looks good.

[VA72C10]

Very nice work as usual...the best thing is you've taken the time to engineer it so that it is functional, safe, performs well, and still looks like it could have been a factory concept engine.

[BTCHN 1963]

Boy between you and Allen's classics who needs TV! Beautiful work as always!

[OLDIRON69]

Originally Posted by va72c10

very nice work as usual...the best thing is you've taken the time to engineer it so that it is functional, safe, performs well, and still looks like it could have been a factory concept engine.

x2!

[hgs_notes]

In that 2nd pic there was a bolt head that is now covered over. Is there other access for it or does it matter?

Looks very nice, the welds blended in like it was stamped out plate.

[Frizzle Fry]

Thanks everyone

That bolt is for the upper control arm and is accessible from the other side.

I've been getting some added motivation to get this thing done by watching f20c swap vids on youtube. Check out the revs on this one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9ZnIjgK3tA

YouTube- F20C 240Z

[6772owner]

That is just silly cool, cant wait to hear it fire up in your ride!

[my67chevytruck]

great progress Mike!

[ERASER5]

Ya just gota love a 240Z! The F20C look right at home there.

[dammitmitchell]

that's damnned sexy.. yers is gonna be way cooler

[Sven]

Just signed up so I could post and subscribe! What a simply wicked project you have on your hands ... and so well executed.

I know how much work it is, I have a 1972 Celica I'm transplanting a complete suspension and drivetrain into from a Mazda Miata with plans to turbo the motor &/or replace it with something a little more exciting later, like a SR20DET or a F20C.

I think mine will be easier than yours because the Miata suspension, steering rack, diff, and engine all attach to a front cross member and a rear sub frame which should be comparatively less hassle to chop/fab on the car body so they can bolt up. Plus I'm starting with a somewhat larger car, so I shouldn't have as much sheet metal grafting to do. I'm sure there'll be other challenges I haven't thought of though.

I will have a similar (albeit, not as extreme) challenge to you in that the track of the Miata is 5" wider than the Celica, but I think I can lose that with some fender widening (&/or flares) and wheel offsets. I'm going to try and avoid replacing the front and rear inner fenders with tubs, but I intend the final ride height to be pretty dang low and run some big meats, so I might not be able to get away with it. I want to stick with the OEM Mazda suspension and steering geometry as much as I can, at least at first, because I'm sure they're better at suspension design than I am.

My basic plan is to project the wheel hub center lines and a front to back center line on the car which will provide me with 'cross hairs' front and rear. If I do the same on the cross member and subframe I should be able to line them up fore and aft and side to side so the wheel placement matches the fenders.

Then I am just left with working out the height of the sub frame and cross member. When I get the sub frame and cross member located I will temporarily fix it so I can get a sense for the ride height and what I need to hang the sub frame and cross member where it needs to be. Make sense?

Keep it up, mate!

-Steve

[Jvsapp]

aww bandwidth exceed again and i didn't get an update on the 11th guess i'll just have to wait till the end of the month.

[Frizzle Fry]

Thanks for the post Steve. I love those 1st gen Celicas! I want to see one with widened fenders as opposed to the common flares you see on them.

Your project is plenty ambitious and will be an awesome combo when done. I will have IRS envy Please feel free to post a link to your build thread if you have one. I'm sure I'm not the only one here who would be interested.

As for the PB bandwitdh; try this (scroll through the thumbs on the left): http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...910Large-1.jpg

[Sven]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Thanks for the post Steve. I love those 1st gen Celicas! I want to see one with widened fenders as opposed to the common flares you see on them.

Your project is plenty ambitious and will be an awesome combo when done. I will have IRS envy Please feel free to post a link to your build thread if you have one. I'm sure I'm not the only one here who would be interested.

Well, in that case ... dig the sig!

Mah Projek

Envy? Come on, man, you're sticking a F20C into a Sunbeam Minx ... I think it'll be me that's going to be green ...

It'd be easy to glue on some fiberglass flares ... I want to have a go, when the time comes, at widening them the hard way by slitting the fenders and welding in some fillets. Nothing crazy, mind, I'd like it to be pretty subtle about it but someone who knew Gen 1 Celicas would know ... One of the nice parts about the Celica is the fenders bolt on and are pretty much a single skin where the fillets would go so I *might* be able to get them into an English wheel and make a really nice job of smoothing the modifications.

All pretty ambitious stuff and I'm not doing any of that until I've proven to myself I can get the suspension to work and the motor, trans and rear end in. The car cost me $500 (you'll see why from my thread), I paid about $750 for the motor and trans and the Miata suspension/rear end bits were free so I'm into it nothing I can't recoup if I make a cats ass out of it.

Now I need to stop procrastinating and get my arse to do some work ...

-Steve