Project' 69 c10 aka sin.

[oldblue1968chevy]

prolly a mike lol tape would get you in a ballpark, hopefully i'll be working/drivin the ol 53 sometime soon your inspiring

[threeonthetree]

haha with my limp and all
gal darnit
everytime i put pics up i get a new page........

i dont have a mic at the house just a tape.
but im sure its a 230...

2.85 is a 230
and 2.5** is a 235?

[292farmer]

tape for rough idea for now if i remember 3.57in is a 235 and 3.875in is a 230. a tape measure should give u a good rough estimate to which of those bores u have.

[threeonthetree]

alright. i got my old man to measure them...
he says its
3.75

so that would be closer to the 230 with a bore of 3.875.

Anybody viewing this page for the first time. go back a page and look at the motor...

things i need to figure out

How to Remove the Valves

How to clean up the pistons, valve, chambers and ports

How to install the Rocker Arm Studs.

any help is appreciated.

[292farmer]

for cleaning it up id soak it in carb cleaner, maybe brakleen? im not sure if brakleen is good for internal motor parts but i know it cleaned my steel rims of gunk real fast!!
to remove the valves u need a spring compressor compress the spring and remove the valve spring cap key, release compressor, slowly and remove valve spring and cap. if the valves don't slide out after that lightly tap them with a rubber hammer or something soft faced from the top so u don't bend them.
while at it might as well check the heads for any warpage, and find out if the valves have hardened seats its recommended that u use valves with hardened seats with modern fuel. i don't now how to tell if its hardened or not so im afraid someone else will have to chime in.

[threeonthetree]

alright
how do i check for any warpage?
if they are do i have to get them decked?

and i dought it has hardened seats. i don't think my truck even has hardened seats.

would it be worth getting a valve job on this head and taking it to the machine shop.


if i deck the head does the block also need to be decked?

[oldblue1968chevy]

So is it your car or your lil bros (think thats correct) car? I think they have an alt. tinkering forum you can make a whole NOTHER build thread What're the plans for this thing anyways? Any HUGE ones besides gettin er on the road?

[292farmer]

u need a straight edge tool and lay it diagonal end to end like making an x across the head. and down the middle the length of the head on the gasket side. my manual says to use a flat feeler gauge under the straight edge between it and the head, and that if it exceeds .003" in a span of 6 inches or .006" over total length then needs to be surfaced/decked. u don't have to do head and block at same time unless both need it i believe, just make sure u use good quality gaskets.
unless someones put in hardened seats they probably don't, its not as far as i know a huge deal but i'm told they don't collect heat as much, so theirs less chance of the seats warping and hitting the pistons, or not sealing properly.
if it needs to be decked maybe worth it do do valve job at same time, but that depends on your budget and condition of valves. so not my say, i'm just trying to help u out.

[threeonthetree]

edit : old blue.. its my brothers car i guess...lol ive done most/all of the work tho...
not really at the moment no Big plans
just get the damn thing road worthy
and see where it goes from there
pretty much a budget build right now.

i know where i could post it but id rather just leave it how it is you guys seem interested enough.
haha

gives you a break from the pick em' ups

[threeonthetree]

Originally Posted by 292farmer

u need a straight edge tool and lay it diagonal end to end like making an x across the head. and down the middle the length of the head on the gasket side. my manual says to use a flat feeler gauge under the straight edge between it and the head, and that if it exceeds .003" in a span of 6 inches or .006" over total length then needs to be surfaced/decked. u don't have to do head and block at same time unless both need it i believe, just make sure u use good quality gaskets.
unless someones put in hardened seats they probably don't, its not as far as i know a huge deal but i'm told they don't collect heat as much, so theirs less chance of the seats warping and hitting the pistons, or not sealing properly.
if it needs to be decked maybe worth it do do valve job at same time, but that depends on your budget and condition of valves. so not my say, i'm just trying to help u out.

yeah i know where your coming from
my old man and i have been discussing it.
should be able to check to see if it is warped have nice straight edges and a feeler.

thanks for all the help 292!

[threeonthetree]

So do I Also need the machine shop to press my rocket arm studs in or can I do it. Cause they are far out. One fell out and was leaking antifreeze.

292farmer do u have a thread?
Rebuilt a inline?

Why do u like sixes so much?

[threeonthetree]

Oldblue what's wrong with your 53?

[292farmer]

yeah my threads at
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=376520
haven't rebuilt a 6 yet but i've rebuilt a couple willys inline 4's just missing 2 cylinders ;p and a couple v8's, i'm no expert yet though.
i love sixes because their simple and i like stuff that is different, i don't want to be another v8. and in high school me and my friend had a c10 with a hopped up 250 I6 home made headers(from some v8 headers we cut up), and intake had 2 2bbl carbs off 305v8s and i believe a comp cam, and 4 the th400 we bought a 2000rpm stall, that truck was fast for a 6 and we were the fastest truck at HS and in the top 5 fastest cars at HS, that truck kinda got me hooked on sixes.

[threeonthetree]

It's not bad to be different
I like sixes too.
I've got these 2(230,250) and my cousin has 2 amc sixes. A 77,79.
There cool motors. And last and last.
Sounds like that truck was a mean six. I'd like to see it.

So the head doesn't seem to be warped.

Cleaning it up now.

[threeonthetree]

4 bbl adapter plates?

[292farmer]

i'll see if i can dig up some pics, it was a 1981 c10, since it was owned and built by me and my buddy we both drove it, unfortunately he took it with him to Arizona so i havent seen it in like 2 yrs.
are you talking 1bbl to 4 bbl adapter plates?

[threeonthetree]

Got the valves to move good with out removing them.
so i think im just gonna reinstall the head. I'm guessing it will run fine.

pics got a nice gasket set with everything for the top end. Even the gasket that goes between the manifold and intake... c10 will be quieter.

here they are


gaskets..


cleaned up the short block what the pistons look like.


close up


Bore looks clean on all pistons


Cleaned up the head.


Close up on the valves that where being sticky

reinstalling the head soon!

[292farmer]

is that pieces of metal or crud at edges of pistons along wall? if its metal, or even crud u might want to get rid of it so it dont plug the spark plugs or scratch the walls, i pour a little motor oil on top of piston about a 1/4 inch on all of them(maybe more oil depends bore wear and if oil goes past piston) then, rotate crank up to TDC for each piston and grab the crud with a magnet(for metal) and a pick or small flat head screwdriver. i use oil so they don't scratch the wall as they go up, i figure the oil helps slide it up with minimal wear on the cylinder walls. just my .02

[oldblue1968chevy]

yeah need to clean that off lol cant be good! i cant wait to hear how she drives!

[threeonthetree]

idk who you guys think i am.
some dumb teenager.....
but yeah where cleaning up the pistons as best we can. its not metal, just bad gas or something deposited. stuff is not hard like metal its soft just looks like it is hard and grainy.
not metal. idk how metal would get on top of the pistons.
i already planned on using 2 stroke oil on the walls of the bores and maybe a little on the top of the pistons before we reinstall the head.
thanks for the tip about putting oil on the pistons to keep wear and scratches down.

this work was done early today i had some energy go back and look at the pistons before they were a lot worse
i'm not planning on must slapping the head on there without proper clean up....
i know what metal or any debris will do to the walls.
Plus im leaving some of the clean up to my brother he should be here tomorrow. i've been getting the dirtiest working on this car... considering im on crutches doesnt make much sense..but that is how it always is.


but hopefully i can drive it a little.

im leaving for florida on friday.. so it may not be done till i get back... bummer i know

[culp7]

Originally Posted by threeonthetree

idk who you guys think i am.
some dumb teenager.....

man you ain't a dumb teenager at all!

you know a hell of a lot more than me lol
and lookin good, can't wait till you get her runnin

[threeonthetree]

ThankS man
i bet you got more brains than me tho
cant wait either.. ill have a video of the first start up
I know the motor looks rough but this was just a rough clean up before we do i final. i used up all the carb cleaner on the head.
pics to come before assembly.
Well here are some more pics of the car.
the rear end suspension is much like the c10's.
and this car has a x frame.





someone was trying to tell me this car could have a posi rearend. how would i know.?

Edit.
does anyone know where i can get a oil pan>? this one is rusty....

[292farmer]

sorry if that came off wrong, was just trying to help out i've of made mistakes before, and always wished someone had said something. lol course thats me...
i believe i remember a board member said if u jack the rear up and turn one wheel, if its posi both wheels will rotate same direction, if open both wheels will turn different directions. (im trying to find the thread again)

[threeonthetree]

No problem man.
Dont worry.

I know
Clean clean clean

[threeonthetree]

I'm sorry for getting upset.
Your just trying to help.

And thanks for all your advice and help