Project "My Happy Mess"

[hgs_notes]

Gauge is probably bad. It should be at or below the low mark when off. Air bubbles don't effect the readings much, would read lower than normal if it did. As for break in oil, I used diesel engine oil in mine. It has more additives, comparable to the regular break in oils at a much better price.

[litew8]

I mentioned "roller setup" earlier - defined: roller components; a set.
Friction considerably less - not require break in oils, due to that fact.

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..

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wasted bandwidth

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edited: movies deleted

[Mike Bradbury]

Uh, cannot play the vid, it says it was "a duplicate video that was previously uploaded"

What about break in oil for the crank and pistons?

[litew8]

damn it

gee, I accidentally deleted vid #3 in my first vid post and now I can't
go back and edit to correct it due to the time out law and no privileges.
I'll add it back below.

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Movies better than pictures, any day.
These clips are self-explanatory.
Also, the temp. gauge didn't register. Giving it attention.

Part 3

MVC-816W.MPG - YouTube

Part 4

MVC-819W.MPG - YouTube

Part 5

MVC-820W.MPG - YouTube

Part 6

MVC-822W.MPG - YouTube

Part 7

MVC-823W.MPG - YouTube

Part 8 - The End

MVC-824W.MPG - YouTube

Supposedly there's a wire on the backside of the oil pressure gauge.
I'll need to disassemble the cluster to check and see if the needle can be adjusted.

[litew8]

Originally Posted by Mike Bradbury

What about break in oil for the crank and pistons?

Don't think they're critical. I'm sure someone will disagree.

[litew8]

Today -

Double checked transmission fluid, oil and anti-freeze levels since First Fire (which was approx. 20 minute duration). Added a little transmission fluild and anti-freeze coolant. Oil level looked right on mark. The Fixer took a valve cover off the other day to verify oil distribution - Check.

Took the instrument cluster out and removed the oil pressure gauge.
Snapped some pictures that I'll post later.

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Previously - how the transmission dipstick tube/detent cable turned out -



Took the instrument cluster out and removed the oil pressure gauge -



Oil pressure gauge comparison. Old/top, New inaccurate/bottom -
Look at the quality of the old gauge. Amazing - much better.



Haven't messed with the gauge yet. Not sure if the needle can be
moved on it's own or not. Also not sure if that wire on the bottom is
suppose to have a bend in it or not.

[litew8]

These clips didn't make the cut earlier.
The 1991 PO had Dynomax mufflers installed (with headers).


Great choice. The Pit Boss had Walker mufflers on his Mustang too.
After looking around, I think Dynomax (Walker) Hemi Super Turbo mufflers will
quite my exhaust to what I'm looking for, if we can fit them.

Loud only on demand. I've read these are a little louder than OEM, but
considering my engine is a little more than OEM (), should be a good fit for the
sound I'm looking for, at a good price.



There's also Walker Quiet Flow 3's in considreation -



Either one should quiet/tone down this :

MVC-824W.MPG - YouTube

MVC-825W.MPG - YouTube

MVC-826W.MPG - YouTube

[Mike Bradbury]

I don't know how much you want to/ or feel comfortable with "fixing" the new inaccurate gage. If it were me I would just look for a better quality one rather than risking torching my new engine because of a faulty gage. It is cheap insurance.

[litew8]

I wanted to wait and send Classic Truck an email with pictures first,
before tampering with the gauge.

I was mistaken earlier when I said I didn't have a High Volume oil pump. Guess that's what I actually ended up buying, a Melling oil pump. The extra pressure must have stretched the element, expanding it to where it wouldn't contract back to normal. I'm going to try and move the needle back down. Just got done consulting Classic Truck, they say the bend in the wire is suppose to be there (and to try and bend the wire itself to correct it). They only sell the 60psi version, which is what this is for stock pumps.

If my mod doesn't work (good enough), I should prob. look into getting an 80psi gauge like hgs_notes mentioned. We'll see what happens. If I can move the needle, it should save face and be ok. The element being expanded due to pressure - doesn't necessarily mean the gauge is busted, just stressed. If I can adjust it, it should be okay to give me a good enough reading.

[litew8]

I managed to move the needle down to L on the gauge. I didn't want to bend the wire affixed to the needle, risking messing up the proper contour/alignment of its function. I held the element firm and turned the needle. Reinstalled the cluster. We'll see how it goes. Spent prob. 1/2 hour on it. Not sure what 20/25% more volume will do to the gauge, hopefully it's finished expanding and will provide an adequate reading. We're going to install an external gauge to measure pressure for certainty, eventually. We'll test the oil pressure gauge mod. and temperature gauge tomorrow.

New oil pressure gauge, needle relocated -

[Tyz082]

you have more patience than i do man, i would have just replaced it. good luck hope your engineering works out. I agree with mike overall though just get the correct gauge, just another reason to Aint it fun!

[litew8]

Thanks tyz082. It isn't a rush, and I personally don't consider it to be busted. Since I've moved the needle (itself only) back to the L position, I've ran the engine a couple of times. The needle rests back on L when the engine is turned off - indicating it (element) hasn't expanded anymore. If it had, it'd read 5 or something on the dial. If in the future it expands, and the gauge reads something other than 0 when the engine is off, I'd consider replacing it.

Right now, on a cold start - it reads H. And then moves down to just below the 1/2 point when warmed up (normal). It has performed like this both times since I readjusted the needle.

I know nothing about oil pressure gauges like this other than they are VERY ELEMENTARY in design - I'm thinking the only difference between an 60lbs and 80lbs gauge is the curvature of the element that contracts under pressure (meaning the element is the same, just shaped differently). I'm just guessing here - that the 80lbs doesn't have any heavier duty parts in comparison and essentially, I've turned my 60lbs into an 80lbs manually.

Disclaimer: DO NOT ATTEMPT AT HOME

[hgs_notes]

The bellows in an 80# guage is probably a small percentage thicker to offer more resistance to pressure so for the same distance of movement of the needle a higher pressure is needed. If your guage will read consistantly that is all you really need.

When you get a reading that is abnormal you will have to think about whether it's the guage or sloppy bearings. I wiped a couple bearings on an engine once, still had good pressure at cold start, just slightly less than normal. Then as it warmed up the pressure was noticably lower. This was on an aftermarket guage. Frankly, the originals are not a hell of lot better than on off switches. They are not graduated or calibrated. Thats why I would suggest using a good test guage along with it just once so you have an idea of what your actual pressure is now, note it and it can be checked later if you suspect something out of wack.

It's been about a week now. Getting anything done?

[litew8]

We're still intending to connect an external gauge to get an actual reading, as mentioned before. A decrease in pressure is normal under normal operating conditions. Not much of anything else accomplished recently. Planning the second phase/course. Since painting cannot be done, we've got some time.

Edit: Temp. gauge working after replacing sending unit w/new. I think it's inaccurate though. Need more time to observe, but I think it measures too high. We've got an inferred reader to shoot it with. I've read how aftermarket sending units are inaccurate.

[Tyz082]

Forgot to say congrats on the 1st fire!!
Sounds good!! cant wait till i hear mine turn over

[litew8]

Thanks!
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The Fixer has had a cold; shop closed for a few days.
Can't afford catching something. Good to take a break.

Still contemplating exhaust, pipes and all.
I've been consulting with The Pit Boss.

[litew8]

Dynomax Muffler Demonstration - YouTube

[litew8]

Check this out, 55RamJet's video. nice!

RamJet 350 55 Bel Air Dynamax Hemi Super Turbo Mufflers

RamJet 350 55 Bel Air Dynamax Hemi Super Turbo...

^ he says Dynamax
^ wish my truck's front would jump so easily!

[litew8]

Small update: I bought some mufflers locally. Their book didn't reference the Dynomax Hemi Super Turbos so I just got the Super Turbos. They are the same ones that the PO in 1991 had installed (Super Turbo 17736's, coupled with headers though). Put them on this afternoon. We had to cut the rear hangers and move the end pipes towards the cab to fit (short a few inches). I can always buy ends to put on to extend, like previously - so that the tailpipe isn't positioned under the bed.

Product Features
- Large internal flow tubes improve exhaust flow and reduce backpressure
- Dyno proven to flow up to 700 SCFM
- Exclusive patented flow director design channels exhaust flow and eliminates turbulence
- Fiberglass matting technology to absorb unwanted interior resonance
- Mellow performance tone

They're only 2" IN/OUT and my exhaust is 2" throughout,
needless to say - I'm not expecting exceptional sound but hope to be surprised, if even a little.

[litew8]

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Magnaflow website

I'll need to upgrade to at least 2.5" exhaust eventually. Probably get an H section too.