1986 Chevy C10 SWB Step Side

[aotte1]

Another cleaned frame photo before painting. After painting plan to do an axle flip, along with new springs with a little more arch to make total drop of about 3". As part of spring chance will likely remove overload leaf. Plan to do the flip, making parts myself. Want it to be as strong as original for 1/4 mile trips.

Les

[aotte1]

Just for information, the previous photo shows the rear of 51.5" 3 leaf springs. below is a photo of 56" 5 leaf springs from another 86' short bed. The 56" spring has about 2" more of arch vs the 51.5". A lot of people call the 51.5 a 52 inch spring, my measurement center to center bolt looks like 51.5".

Les

[aotte1]

Photo of full spring, on a very clean frame.

Les

[aotte1]

Installing new rear leaf springs that lower the truck. I purchased them from Western Suspension. Removed the original springs. Their were some bolts that were difficult to remove. The U-bolts nuts were very hard to remove, I remove two of them, using a very long pipe on a breaker bar. For the other two I used a cut off wheel to remove them. The rear spring eye bolts were easy to remove. However, the front spring eye bolts were frozen to the inner sleeve in the spring eye. They then could not be driven out once the nut was removed. Therefor, used the cutting wheel again to cut the front eye of the spring free from the front bolt. I should have taken some measurement of the frame height with the original springs to compare to the new ones. With the new springs installed their is 3.5" of clearance between the axle and bottom of the overload rubber cushion. This will be less once the bed is installed. Below are a few photos.

Les

[aotte1]

A few more photos with the new leaf springs. Still need to install new front bolts, along with new U-bolts. Yes, you may see some temporary wood blocks in the pics too, to make the old U-bolts work, till I get new ones.

Will be checking on pinion angle to see if and how much it needs to be adjusted, with shims, before it is all finished. Also, may install overloads from old springs as an height adjustment if needed. And used a marine grease to prevent spring eye bolts from rusting to inner sleeve in the future. It is really sticky and does not wash away.

Les

[aotte1]

The above photo of the old and new spring only shows the differences in the arch of the springs, the alignment as they would be installed is not shown.

Les

[Low Elco]

Coming along nicely!

[aotte1]

Thanks for the encouragement, I am at Fall Carlisle this week. Had a good day today, found a couple of nice things. Best was a left NOS stepper fender with the spare tire built in. Can not say what I payed for it, because I will get no sympathy here for a long time!! Will just say it was a lot less then the cost of a reproduction fender.

Will post photo when I get home.

Les

[rip2174]

Got's to say. after seeing multi-posts of your frame painting, I much like what pint you are using than I. Pics seem to do your frame painting really nice work.

[aotte1]

Rip,
Thanks for the complements on the frame. I like to use Rust-oleum paint, this truck is getting " black satin 7777502". This is what I like for a vehicle that sees a mild corrosive environment. For me I like the process how Rust-oleum paint addresses corrosion. Getting material to be painted really clean is super important. I spray immediately after final cleaning, have paint ready, to minimize moisture adhering to material.
Most of the frame has been spray painted, with thin coats and a wet final coat. It flows and blends really nice. Spray with a low air pressure, because it really easy to apply.

Les

[aotte1]

A few parts from Fall Carlisle,
1). found a NOS left fender that carries the spare tire. Not sure which years this fender fits, maybe, 1976 to 1980.

[aotte1]

Another photo.

[aotte1]

Some sound reducing material.

[aotte1]

Back working on bed again, putting the tailgate chain together. Used a coat hanger, some soap, to pull the rubber cover onto the chain. The soap really helps.

[aotte1]

Had some new U-bolts made for the new rear lowering springs, they were made at a big truck mechanical shop. They made them as I waited, had a hydraulic press that bent them to the size needed, from old copy. They are very heavy duty and nice. Same dia. as original.

Just a heads up to consider big truck mechanical shop, the one I used was near an Interstate HWY, that has lots of trucks on it.


Les

[aotte1]

Back on the bed, fitting the new wood floor to make sure it fits before permanent installation. This includes trying the wood and metal strips to see that it all lines up with the holes in the bed and under frame strips. Mine just fits.

L

[aotte1]

After test fitting the wood, I needed to move the outside board right side all the way outboard. Also, the bed edge was not totally straight so used a clamp to move the two flush. This was necessary to line up the clamping metal strips bolt hole with the corresponding holes in the bed. Heads-up, that I also needed the left side outside board moved all the left bed side too.

[aotte1]

Next I installed all the boards and metal strips, putting bolts in the ends of each metal strip. The metal strips are stainless steel, satin finish. I order my wood predrilled, which is ok, however, the holes are not large enough diameter to fit over the bed to frame hardware. Used a fostner bit to enlarge them. Not sure about the recessed depth of the wood for the washer { more on this later}??
Since doing this alone, I used the foam and hammer to hold bolts in place while I started the nuts.

[aotte1]

Next I installed the first bed to frame cross support going from tailgate. While doing this, some of the bolts used to attach the metal strips to the frame cross support were not lining up straight. To correct this I needed to move the left outside board all the way outboard, thereby, allowing more space to move metal strips to align with frame cross supports holes. I used the method Jeff suggested above, making slots for the bolts attached to the bed sides, this allows the board to be inserted.

Last photo shows the spacers that sat on the frame as part of the frame to bed mounting bolts. Need to determine if the washers on the surface of the bed wood need to be in direct contact with them.

I want to thank Jeff for sharing his knowledge above on how he did his bed wood which has been a BIG HELP.

Les

[Low Elco]

Coming along nicely-bed looks great!

[aotte1]

Started replacing the rebuilt front cross member/ suspension. The old one came out easy, removed the bolts and it dropped out. Then slide the rebuilt one under and lifted it into place. Also, replaced all the brake lines with stainless steel ones. A few photos of replaced front cross member/ suspension.
Les

[Jake Wade]

I just read through every page of your build thread. I appreciate you taking the time to snap photos and provide detailed information.

NICE BUILD, NICE TRUCK

[aotte1]

Jake,
Thanks for the complement, glade my build may help you. Many other builds have helped me, also think it is good to document originality where you find it.

Plan to complete the brake work soon, when I find time. Doing a lot of renovation work on our home this fall.

[RED1985]

Very nice work.

[aotte1]

Edgar thanks for the complement.

Continuing to slowly put truck back together. Hope to get more done this week. Getting the carb, fuel pump, fuel lines, and MSD 6AL ready to install.