72 K30 Build

[7dee2]

Our new poly mounts and bushings are here. First thing the rear spring bushings were swapped for the correct ones, way better fit. Not too excited with the washers that came with the new motor mounts though (wimpy). Pretty sure I've got the correct (beefy) old style ones in my nut, bolt & washer collection.

[7dee2]

The later K35 trans/tc cross member is going to be the cleanest and easiest to install by far. Here are some pics of prepping and installing ours it had a small chunk missing from an earlier driveline failure as well as needing some straightening.

The original 67-72 style member would have required a pedestal to fit the larger longhorn frame section. It could be done but I felt it would always be a battle to work with and not worth the extra effort.

[7dee2]

Some more pics installed.

[7dee2]

With the new motor & trans/tc mounts installed made the carb level get even better. In addition the exhaust manifolds clear now.

[Dieselwrencher]

It's looking nice! It's nice to see the manifolds clear now too!

[7dee2]

Thanks DW!

It's time to install the tc and side mount. Couldn't locate the exact right length (they are really, really short) bolts from bracket to case so we just cut off the extra to make ours, no problemo.

[7dee2]

Our rear pinion angles look close enough for me, tc 2.5 down & diff 1.5-1.75ish up, roughly 1 degree or less off the same plane. With the angles that good and we like the overall stance the rear most hangers did get bolted. Went ahead and finished mounting the sway bar to the new mounts. Sway bar looks pretty flat with the motor/trans/tc weight in place.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work! It's getting closer!

[ryanroo]

Looking good!

[swamp rat]

Real nice progress!

[7dee2]

Thanks for the kind words it’s pretty cool seeing it start to resemble a truck again!

We built a new high lift type cab lifter much more stable and just in time to fit the cab with some new body mounts. Our mockup big block fits great, plenty of room in the forward 2wd position.

[JJorgensen52]

Nice!! That truck is going to have a killer stance.

[mjensen]

Good work Brett!!! Maybe when I'm dropping my truck off (possibly) to a buddy of mine in Centerville, I'll have to stop by and check this thing out in person.

[rgunlock]

Very good progress! That looked like a LOT of work to get a 4wd roller.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

Nice!! That truck is going to have a killer stance.

Thanks Jim we're very happy with the stance! Guessing maybe a tad lower in the front compared to your 72 GMC build.

Originally Posted by mjensen

Good work Brett!!! Maybe when I'm dropping my truck off (possibly) to a buddy of mine in Centerville, I'll have to stop by and check this thing out in person.

Thanks Mike appreciate the info you sent and anytime your up this way.

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Very good progress! That looked like a LOT of work to get a 4wd roller.

Thanks! It’s what I wanted and it's a little bit different.



Well our fenders did not line up right off also found the TC was touching the cab floor with the high hump removed. Added 3 more (4 total) shims each to both front cab mounts brought the fenders inline and raised the cab enough to clear the TC.

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Well our fenders did not line up right off also found the TC was touching the cab floor with the high hump removed. Added 3 more (4 total) shims each to both front cab mounts brought the fenders inline and raised the cab enough to clear the TC.

I'm in the same spot right now on the '50 (well minus the T-case ), my tailhousing is pretty close to the floor and not so sure I'm happy about it.

[DWilbur]

How thick is your rubber bushing under the cab in front and rear. I will check mine later.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by JJorgensen52

I'm in the same spot right now on the '50 (well minus the T-case ), my tailhousing is pretty close to the floor and not so sure I'm happy about it.

I think you can be pretty close if there isn't much movement possible in the body/trans mounts. Rubber will flex more than poly and these parts are supposed to be some what stationary right?

Originally Posted by DWilbur

How thick is your rubber bushing under the cab in front and rear. I will check mine later.

Front cab mounts are 1" with 1/2" in shim material for a total of 1 1/2". Rear cab mounts are 2 5/8" with one 1/8" shim for a total 2 3/4" installed. They're black poly Energy Suspension 34107G for a 67-72 K20. In comparison I think they were the same height as the old C30 mounts except for the core support the new ones are a little bit thicker. Our new trans/tc mounts probably add a smig and the later trans/tc cross member may not be quite as deep as a K20 by a nats a**. All in all I'm thinking it's peachy!



From these angles I’ve got some déjà vu going on. Reminds me of when we mocked up our sheet metal on the donor 84 K35 Crew Cab chassis last winter (green cab). Difference is this time we got to bolt down the old RV cab (without the little hole in the back) and it’s not a limo anymore it’s probably a good 3’ shorter at least!

[7dee2]

With the cab/body on we need to fit a few things. Started by installed the tc shifter and nailed the factory position. The console also got fit for the last time prior to restore it’s the first time it was actually bolted to the floor.

[Dieselwrencher]

Great work! I've got a 72 C30 Longhorn to convert to a K30 for a board member soon. Too bad the body is nice and the owner may not want to remove it.

[7dee2]

Cool DW do you think you'll do a build thread? I'd like to see that!


Here's what's up with the trans shifter linkage. If you recall we covered up one of the original mounting holes with the shackle bracket on that side. Flipped the bracket around until it lined up and bolted it to the upper existing mounting hole, and wala! Looks like it’ll work just fine right there but we’ll test it with the rest of the column in later to make sure. Front drive line from the K35 looks perfect.

[7dee2]

Started a hydroboost conversion, wasn’t really sure we were going to do this but after giving it some thought it made sense. GM went to this system with the brakes we now have and I don't want any pedal pressure issues later, the donor truck stopped on a dime! Jim (JJorgensen52) did this conversion on one of our main inspiration trucks and he made it look easy http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=631136 what a really great write up Jim, thanks! We’ve got the same core parts essentially as Jim did so our push rod length was the same (ours was marked 71217).

[JJorgensen52]

Originally Posted by 7dee2

Started a hydroboost conversion, wasn’t really sure we were going to do this but after giving it some thought it made sense. GM went to this system with the brakes we now have and I don't want any pedal pressure issues later, the donor truck stopped on a dime!

You won't regret it! With those big tires and wheels and a decent load, the hydroboost really gives you peace of mind.

Are you going to be using the stock big block remote reservoir steering pump? If so, you might want to look into a GM 26073040 or similar reservoir; they came in Astro/Safari/Express/Savanna vans with hydroboost and have dual return fittings, but they look pretty much identical to the stock unit, and they're made of welded steel so easy to add/modify a bracket to mount it where you want it.

[7dee2]

Yes that is the plan we'll use the stock big block remote reservoir steering pump with a tee in the return line. Our thinking is we'll go down the same road as you did with the steering box and plumbing easy peasy!


Here are some pics of our modified brake pedal prior to the final fitment. Going to wait until I've got the rebuilt HB in place to punch the hole and finish fitting this piece.

[DWilbur]

Do you think it would still work lengthening the rod and using the factor hole.