What did you do with your truck today, Part 3

[idbeast]

I just got home from a car show of almost 150 cars and trucks, and I actually won a trophy! I guess the time on the dash helped, It was for Distinguished Dash. Exciting feeling to see a "dot" on my headlight!

[jweb]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

so I tried another idea. Disconected the front line at the m/c & plugged that port. Left the rear line connected.
Pushed the pedal with the engine off. it went down 3" & was firm. started engine, pushed pedal & it went to the floor.
Now im wondering if the m/c doesn't have enough volume in the rear chamber to make the rear brakes work.
Any thoughts?

Did you check the pushrod length?
https://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf/916-31939.pdf

That could also be the problem

[nvrdone]

push rod length has been checked & is correct.
I did move the rear brake line to the front chamber port. pedal stays firm with engine off or running.
so today I ran across another idea while searching the internet.
Some one else had a similar problem and it turned out that his m/c didn't have enough fluid volume in the chamber to move the wheel cylinders. they didn't match the m/c.
so I checked mine. I have 1" wheel cylinders and the match to the m/c is 13/16"
that's not much but its worth changing them out. wish me luck.

[cyril]

Cruse in @ The Sonic in town. Major HOT only about 10 others showed

[jweb]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

push rod length has been checked & is correct.
I did move the rear brake line to the front chamber port. pedal stays firm with engine off or running.
so today I ran across another idea while searching the internet.
Some one else had a similar problem and it turned out that his m/c didn't have enough fluid volume in the chamber to move the wheel cylinders. they didn't match the m/c.
so I checked mine. I have 1" wheel cylinders and the match to the m/c is 13/16"
that's not much but its worth changing them out. wish me luck.

I might have missed it but what m/c do you have? Some of them from the 80’s/90’s the rear brake lines connect to the front of the master. Also if you didn’t bleed the air at the proportioning valve it can still have air trapped or the valve can be stuck.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qPLaPv8DITE

[oldman3]

idbeast, congrats...Jim

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by idbeast

I just got home from a car show of almost 150 cars and trucks, and I actually won a trophy! I guess the time on the dash helped, It was for Distinguished Dash. Exciting feeling to see a "dot" on my headlight!

Well-deserved!

[idbeast]

Thanks Jim and Bob!!!

[nvrdone]

jweb: the m/c was included in the kit from CPP. its a 79 mustang booster & m/c - disc / drum. the instructions say that the chamber closest to the booster ( larger one) is for the front brakes and the smaller chamber is for the rear brakes. to use drum brakes on the front, add a 10# check valve. with drum brakes, there is no proportioning valve.
if changing the rear wheel cylinders doesn't work, the next step would be to chance to a corvette style disc /disc m/c with 10# check valves in each side.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

jweb: the m/c was included in the kit from CPP. its a 79 mustang booster & m/c - disc / drum. the instructions say that the chamber closest to the booster ( larger one) is for the front brakes and the smaller chamber is for the rear brakes. to use drum brakes on the front, add a 10# check valve. with drum brakes, there is no proportioning valve.
if changing the rear wheel cylinders doesn't work, the next step would be to chance to a corvette style disc /disc m/c with 10# check valves in each side.

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you use 2# check valves with disc brakes, and 10# with drums.

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by DransportGarage

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you use 2# check valves with disc brakes, and 10# with drums.

correct

[nvrdone]

dansportgarage: you are correct. since ive still got the stock drums front & rear, I do have the 10# check valve in the front. The master cylinder is a disc / drum so that makes me think there is a check valve in the rear brake port in the m/c

[MiraclePieCo]

What did I do with my truck today? I entered it in the TOTM contest! YAY!

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

dansportgarage: you are correct. since ive still got the stock drums front & rear, I do have the 10# check valve in the front. The master cylinder is a disc / drum so that makes me think there is a check valve in the rear brake port in the m/c

As I recall someone not too long ago was having the same problem, turned out to be a bad M/C

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

What did I do with my truck today? I entered it in the TOTM contest! YAY!

Way to go!!!!

Jim W

[gigamanx]

Now that the truck is up and running, playing with small projects. Installed an F bomb under the hood.

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Now that the truck is up and running, playing with small projects. Installed an F bomb under the hood.

I like it!!!

Jim W

[MARTINSR]

So cool to see you guys getting stuff done, getting to shows, so cool. I am still on hold with even touching mine after the move, can't wait to get back to my 5 minutes a day plan!


Brian

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

So cool to see you guys getting stuff done, getting to shows, so cool. I am still on hold with even touching mine after the move, can't wait to get back to my 5 minutes a day plan!


Brian

Well, hey! At least you're in Idaho!

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

So cool to see you guys getting stuff done, getting to shows, so cool. I am still on hold with even touching mine after the move, can't wait to get back to my 5 minutes a day plan!


Brian

That's okay, I'll do 10 minutes a day to include you!!!

Temporarily installed the rear bumper to see how lose it would fit, not bad, but the repop bumper mounts need to go to work with me tomorrow so I can fix the bend in the 3/8 flat bar that is not at a 90 degree angle and trim the bottom of the mount where it attaches to the bumper as it will majorly tweak my chrome as it doesn't fit the crease in the bumper.

Jim W

[MARTINSR]

The most profound thing I have ever heard referring to reproduction parts. A friend of mine said it when he opened the box with some parts he got for his '65 Corvette years ago.

"If they wanted to be honest, instead of putting in the catalog Exactly as original, they would put, Similar to original, can be used if nothing else is available"

Yep

Brian

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

The most profound thing I have ever heard referring to reproduction parts. A friend of mine said it when he opened the box with some parts he got for his '65 Corvette years ago.

"If they wanted to be honest, instead of putting in the catalog Exactly as original, they would put, Similar to original, can be used if nothing else is available"

Yep

Brian

I've only seen one company do that, and it's a Pontiac parts source called Ames Performance Engineering.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by DransportGarage

I've only seen one company do that, and it's a Pontiac parts source called Ames Performance Engineering.

Good for them, they are honest!

Brian

[Tempest67]

If you have a Pontiac, Ames is the best in the business

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by mobileortho

Removed another leaf from the rear (the three main ones remain). Can’t go any lower with this rim/tire combo.

Gotta move on to plan B. The drive shaft hits the emergency brake cross bar when I foot "accidentally" push the accelerator to hard! Putting the 4th leaf back in and adding a c-notch.

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

If you have a Pontiac, Ames is the best in the business

Yes, they are...