![]() |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
in other news we replaced our 60 foot speedometer cable with an 80 foot one and now we have a working speedometer with the new overdrive transmission, this was yet another reason to go with the New Process 833 unit as it uses mechanical speedo drive, so you just screw on your speedo cable and off you go
Is it accurate? we don't know yet, we shall calibrate it soon enuff |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
also did our first oil change,
Wait What? You were running the break in oil all this time? whoa easy tiger, it's perfectly acceptable to drive around for about 50 miles or so got talked out of Rotella and talked into 20W-50 with the Lucas Zinc additive, so I went for that in hopes it would eliminate my ticking, which it has not Went with a BOSCH oil filter cause it was black. What? You don't pick your oil filters based on color? Silly Wabbit. What? You don't know about the trick of raising one side of your truck to get the last 1/2 quart of dirty oil out? I kid you not I started doing this on my '97 Tahoe cause the dope who designed the oil pan decided to put the drain plug 1/2 an inch above sea level, ha ha, our trucks have it a bit lower and a bit better, but still, more oil comes out as you lift that sucker |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Posts: 702
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
maybe I haven't been following along well enough but have you replaced your radiator cap? what psi is it rated at and would a different psi help and what is your actual coolant to water ratio have you measured it? Pretty soon here we may be looking into a new radiator
![]() I'm still betting the tick is a valve train issue... Maybe an exhaust leak at the header flange?
__________________
"Orange Crush" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 | ||
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
Quote:
not crazy at all I was window shopping on LMC Truck's website today for the 3 row radiator, actually I looked at Brothers and Classic Parts websites too, but i am a little short like $300 bucks short, ha ha |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
and I said hold on you young whipper snapper can you be more specific, and he leaned in and he listened to the back of the motor, and he listened to the front of the motor, and then he listened to the back again and said it's coming from the back, (as in closest to the firewall on the passenger side) and then he started to go in the house, and I said could you be more specific, and he said "Dad, I don't wanna get burned, or hurt, or cut, or dead, that enjin is hot" and so I let him go |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Posts: 702
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
![]()
__________________
"Orange Crush" |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
sure enough my old radiator cap leaks like a sieve, does not hold pressure at all
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Posts: 702
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
10 psi for every 1000rpm is what I was always told for a SBC
__________________
"Orange Crush" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Posts: 702
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
the general has been known to have problems with gauges being accurate and if that's the case yours may be off a percentage but who can really tell without tests and a second known accurate gauge
Someone else may have something else to chime in for a better number that's just some old trick I remember my uncle telling my stepdad one late night in the garage
__________________
"Orange Crush" |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 | |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Sioux Falls, South Dakota
Posts: 702
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
![]() ![]()
__________________
"Orange Crush" |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Time to start a WATERGATE commiseration post:
Dang found this one in our own back yard: Engine Overheating with Vortec Heads ...The temp gauge in the car is showing above 220... Still having overheating issues (vortec swap guys help!) ... Could it be a communication error between the 76 gauges and the newer temp sender unit I had to get, due to size differences?... Newly rebuilt 350 with Vortec heads - overheating ...The main issue I have is it runs for 10 minutes or so and then starts to get warm... Vortec heads running hot! Need HELP ASAP! I just put some 350 Vortec heads on my 94 block, and the problems are... VORTEC HEADS: BELIEVE THE HYPE?!? Just remember that the Vortech heads are not drilled and do not have internal water pump bypass passage like the older small blocks. This is the bottom hole in the block under the lower water pump bolt on the right hand side. Without that bypass, you can have overheat issues. You simply need to run an external bypass like a big block on any small block using Vortec heads from the front of the intake near the thermostat to the water pump. Without it, there is not enough circulation of hot water passed the thermostat to make it operate correctly and the heads will get hot and the thermostat won't open soon enough. Look at any stock Vortec engine and you will notice there is an external hose from the intake to the water pump. You need that external bypass on any engine you use Vortec heads and a thermostat. Last edited by Gregski; 05-06-2016 at 01:30 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Bloomington Indiana
Posts: 1,041
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Couple things:
Drilling the thermostat is NOT an acceptable alternative to the external bypass. Will it work? Yes, maybe, sorta. Will your heads still be at risk of overheating and cracking? Yes. Will it keep the thermostat from regulating engine temperature properly? Yes, in both directions. When the thermostat is closed, the heads will run hotter at the double exhaust valves than they should because not enough circulation within the block, AND the overall engine temp will not come up to proper operating temp because the radiator is partially in-circuit when it shouldn't be, costing you mileage, performance, and increased engine wear. This unit actually works. http://www.harborfreight.com/non-con...ing-61894.html You can use it to measure the temp of the thermostat housing to read engine temp. You can also use it to read the inlet nipple on the radiator, to see if your thermostat is opening at the proper temp. The thermostat nipple will run about 140* until the thermostat opens, and then jump to about 195*. That is, assuming you do the coolant bypass correctly and don't half-ass it by drilling the thermostat.
__________________
Rich Weyand 1978 K10 RCSB DD. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Atlanta, GA.
Posts: 737
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Just thinkin.
Have You looked at thermostat? I can't remember if you have tested its operation in the pot of water. Specifically does it open, at what temp and if does; all the way? even if it's new, it might be defective. Another thought, why not use a lower temp thermostat. Being that I live in HOTlanta, we regularly use a 160 thermostat since our summer days can be over 100 degrees for weeks in the summer. Our winters are usually mild and have not suffered from not enough heat. Again, just thinkin.
__________________
Jay Gesner Atlanta, GA 1985 C10 Long Bed 4X2 LS 5.3, 4L60E Father/Daughter Project |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
so we tossed him in our Walter White approved "beaker" and set up our control digital temp gauge. Honestly the electric tea kettle works great for this, it ain't going back in the kitchen that's fer sure. Old thermostat is rated at 195*F but being a cheap AutoZone Valuecraft (I'm sure) unit it works but it don't open till 205*F which I try to show you with pics but the darn camera lens keeps fogging up from the steam, ha ha, just trust me on this one I will test the new one later on today when I remove it from the truck. Thanks Jr. and thank you all for hanging in there with me and Rusty on this one, we will finger this out I promise, even if we have to drop a Ford 302 in there, hey just kidding but I did get your attention didn't I... |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Indianola, IA
Posts: 27
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
When I installed a crate motor with Vortec heads, I think I found all of those same sites that were linked above regarding the need for a bypass hose. I used a bypass hose and have not had any heat related issues at all.
Finding a hose that makes that bend without kinking proved to be a whole new issue. NAPA let me go into their back room and browse through all the hoses hanging on the wall to find one with with a bend that would appear to work in the correct size. I ended up finding a longer hose with the correct bend somewhere in the middle. I wish I had written down the part number. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
Furthermore drilling holes in a thermostat would only be a temporary troubleshooting solution as that is not how it was designed to operate, in other words it aint supposed to have holes in it. Again just making sure we are all on the same page. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Bloomington Indiana
Posts: 1,041
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
__________________
Rich Weyand 1978 K10 RCSB DD. |
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
so went out and "rented" a radiator pressure tester gauge from Autozone, this kit costs $75 bucks, so greatfull for their rent a tool program, essentially you buy it than you have 90 days to return it
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#21 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
so bought a new one, $5 bucks
tested it as we test all parts new or old here at Suburbs Garage Inc. and it tests good took the truck for a test drive with the new cap, and results: no change, truck runs just as hot remember all the cap does is increase the boiling point do to the added pressure, it does not effect how hot your engine runs, so the result was expected, but its still good to have a proper working cap |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#22 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
side by side for prosperity
the new cap was designed by someone who actually owned and operated a vehicle cause it has two edges for you to grasp whilst screwing or unscrewing it, unlike the original which was perfectly round and nothing to hold on to, win, win |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#23 | ||
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Clarksville, Tn.
Posts: 183
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
Quote:
Ok, so I'm really unenlightened when it comes to this stuff. I have a couple of questions - what is it that I'm trying to scratch and how do I know when the panels are ready to accept the paint? I took the panels off of my truck, cleaned at least one of them up really well with Simple Green because it was what I already had in the garage. In those areas where the panel, the one that I cleaned, is NOT chalky, my fingernail doesn't leave any sort of mark. But in the chalky areas, YUP! I do leave a mark. When I clean it a second or third time, there is no difference. What's up with this? Can you help? |
||
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#24 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 10,828
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Midway, NC
Posts: 3,275
|
Re: Restoring Rusty
I know in our race cars we only ran water. Then sometimes we'd run Water Wetter which did help especially on the fifty lap races of stop and go. Eventually we went to an electric fan from a Volvo and that cooled the engine nicely. As for the bypass hose if you can't find one start looking at 3500 trucks with the 454 engines in them. I had to replace that stinking hose on our work truck. Good luck and get to cracking.
__________________
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=581873 The low buck build threads. Check'em out! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=666022 My build thread Crossmembers CC |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|