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#3826 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Bloomington Indiana
Posts: 1,041
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Follow-up:
The location of your up-and-over-and-down hose in the pic on p 154 of this thread is correct. Lots of nice pics of different pretty ways to do it are here: https://www.google.com/search?q=vort...h2CLUQ_AUIBygC You need to do it, because you do NOT want to be circulating coolant through your heater in the summer. I put a valve on mine so I could shut it off, because there is minimum amount of heat you get from the heater even when it is shut off. And when it gets hot here, any amount of heat is too much.
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Rich Weyand 1978 K10 RCSB DD. |
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#3827 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
OK, now we are on the same page, (of the same book) sorry, sometimes I am just a little slow to get things. Last edited by Gregski; 05-07-2016 at 08:44 PM. |
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#3828 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Bloomington Indiana
Posts: 1,041
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Re: Restoring Rusty
One other thing you could do. Run the bypass hose with a selector switch in it that can select the heater core OR the bypass. So one selector valve and a T. Then you can have the heater core for the winter, and bypass it in the summer. The one thing you can't do is just shut it off.
What you need is a 1/2" NPT 3-way valve. Search that on Amazon or google. Looks like 30 bucks for a competent one. Here's an example: ![]() Basically it hooks up between the heater hoses like an H-pipe in the exhaust, with the valve in-line on the smaller hose, and a hose across to a T in the other hose.
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Rich Weyand 1978 K10 RCSB DD. |
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#3829 | |
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Location: Sioux Falls, South Dakota
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
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#3830 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Bloomington Indiana
Posts: 1,041
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Yeah, you gotta turn it on and let it flow a bit once a month or so to keep that from happening, just like the guys with the garage queens should start their vehicle and let it run for a bit once a month during the winter.
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Rich Weyand 1978 K10 RCSB DD. |
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#3831 |
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Location: Bloomington Indiana
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Re: Restoring Rusty
One more thing. You can get those 3-way valves with electric actuators, so you could hook it up to run through the heater core when you selected Heat, and otherwise switch to bypass.
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Rich Weyand 1978 K10 RCSB DD. |
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#3832 |
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 711
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Try bumping your initial timing up to 14º-16º. You have a larger camshaft now and this is a good number.
Your vacuum reading at idle most likely will not be over 16-17 with that camshaft, and that's well tuned. |
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#3833 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
I feel like I need to explain my thinking process for using water. I was using water because it is much easier to clean off of the engine block if you have to remove the thermostat water outlet half a dozen times, as well as the garage floor. Also it is my understanding that Antifreeze lowers the freezing point of water as well as raises the boiling point, so I do not expect much change in my condition by running the green stuff, but we shall see. And finally I know many car racers that say they have to run straight water at the race truck so they don't spill antifreeze on the track, I know that is a fact, so if it is good enough to cool their engines which they push way harder (upwards of 100 MPH) than I am pushing Rusty (45 MPH, lol) water should cool my truck just dandily provided everything is in order (gaskets, bypass hoses, fan, radiator, etc.) again Not arguing, just sayin' |
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#3834 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
ok, so lets sum up the situation code name WATERGATE (you like that? I came up with it all by myself)
In the beginning with no bypass hose we were running hot as so... |
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#3835 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
then we added the bypass hose from the intake manifold to the water pump, or water pump to intake manifold which ever way you swing
... and that took us out of red line aka out of critical but still East of the middle on the gauge |
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#3836 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
next we added Antifreeze Coolant into the system, so now we are running 50/50 with water mix, and that did nothing, the reading is exactly precisely the same [pause to scratch head]
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#3837 |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 1,181
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Without knowing what those ticks reference in regards to numbers who knows what you are reading.
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#3838 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
maybe you all can share pics of your happy water temp needles with us, so I have something to compare mine to, please |
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#3839 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Now on this we can agree 1,000%, I hate gauges without numbers, do you know what you call a ruler without numbers? a stick, do you know what you call a gauge without numbers? NOT A STINKIN' GAUGE, that's what!!! ha ha
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#3840 |
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Beautiful BC, Canada, eh?!
Posts: 2,228
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Re: Restoring Rusty
I have a 195° thermostat in my truck, and the operating temp is a tick below the first line (1/4 of the gauge).
I have an electric fan, which is switched on at 212°, and off at 192°, and the needle never passes the first line. My truck is a '77, with original gauge and presumably sender.
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1961 Apache: "Grabber Orange" Shortboxed, pancake, step-notch, air-ride, boosted-LS 1977 Silverado: Shortboxed & dropped, potato-potato V8 Pontiac Firefly (Chevy Sprint): The ultimate engine swap: 5.7L in a 1.0L bag Lotus Super 7 Replica: Scratch-built street-legal rollerskate Last edited by SkinnyG; 05-04-2016 at 11:53 PM. |
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#3841 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
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#3842 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
... we now step away from WATERGATE momentarily and join Timing Adjustment already in progress...
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#3843 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
I don't think this will impact my engine running hot (notice I did not call it overheating) but only a test drive or two will tell, and for that we will have to wait until tomorrow |
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#3844 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Bloomington Indiana
Posts: 1,041
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Re: Restoring Rusty
On temperature, I have an original guage, and a reproduction sender to match the original. Note: not a substitution gauge, a reproduction gauge with the same resistance curve as the original. American Autowire did it for the Corvette restorers, whose gauges read in degrees. It drove them nuts not to have them read right. It turns out they use the same resistance sender as squares up through (I think) 79.
The full details on senders are in this thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=630399 My gauge now reads just shy of straight up when everything is operating normally.
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Rich Weyand 1978 K10 RCSB DD. |
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#3845 | |
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Location: Bloomington Indiana
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
I went looking around, because I thought stick shift idle was supposed to be lower than auto trans idle, but it looks like I misrecalled. You look good to go right there.
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Rich Weyand 1978 K10 RCSB DD. |
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#3846 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
I pulled the trigger on this gorgeous Summit brand digital water temp gauge SUM-G2984-1G for $35 and its accompanying sender SUM-G2984-1S for an additional $10, and knowing Summit they may arrive today. |
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#3847 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Bloomington Indiana
Posts: 1,041
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Re: Restoring Rusty
If your sender matches your gauge, yes. The problem is that a lot of senders were replaced with book substitutes after 1513321 was obsoleted, and the book substitutes don't have the same resistance curve. Getting the true reproduction (see pointer in thread I posted above) will guarantee the gauge reads correctly.
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Rich Weyand 1978 K10 RCSB DD. |
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#3848 |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
so took the truck for a standard 30 minute test drives now that I think I have the timing dialed in, gentlemen the truck sounds good to me, it sounds like a fine tuned Swiss Tractor, lol, no seriously it do sound good, but it still ranned hot
when I got home I felt the radiator cap and it didn't feel too hot, so I did what you aint supposed to do, unscrewed it, then I shoeved the wives favorite turkey thermometer in it, and it read 164* F now I know and you know that I know that, that's in the radiator and not in the cylinder head or not in the intake I get it, but heck we got some sort of a reference digit, know what I mean bro |
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#3849 | |
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Quote:
so we used our digital thermometer as a baseline control, we decided to boil some hot water and we stuck the 1974 water temp sending unit in the pot as well, we were making Vortec Soup, both were suspended in the water and not touching the bottom hot plate, the sending unit was connected to the gauge with its green wire and its housing grounded to the battery negative terminal to ensure proper and reliable ground (ignore the color red wire, an aligator clip is an aligator clip) brilliant if you ask me so with the truck off but the key in the on position (not start, just on) as the water begun boiling the digital control gauge started climbing, our truck gauge didn't for a while, it was a bit slower to react (a bit discouraging at first, but then...) then it started to move I recorded the first notch as 190(ish)* F I recorded the middle notch as 210(ish)* F since water boils at around 212 that was as hot as we could get and the wife caught me using her pot so I couldn't add no Antifreeze to it, ha ha but we might have some reference digits now |
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#3850 |
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Smethport, PA
Posts: 1,213
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Re: Restoring Rusty
Very nice test here. Don't trust anything. It kinda reminds me of my engineer days.
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85 K30 crew cab dually - Project http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=694939 87 Wrangler Rock Crawler - Reason for the project http://www.wranglerforum.com/f330/da...ld-122601.html 04 1500 crew cab http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=786514 |
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