What did you do to your truck today.The 3rd chapter

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

A little paint for my cylinder head after getting it back from the machine shop. Had larger valves installed & a little port work done.

That's an L6 Head. What size valves did you get?
Not going the full monty Lump Port route, I see. I'm on the fence about trying it on the next build.
[Thinking about '63 MY 292. The cranks of that year are highly featherable.]

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

That's an L6 Head. What size valves did you get?
Not going the full monty Lump Port route, I see. I'm on the fence about trying it on the next build.
[Thinking about '63 MY 292. The cranks of that year are highly featherable.]

I went with 1.84 and 1.6 valves. After reading Leo Santucci's book(2nd edition) quite a bit I came to the conclusion that for a street driven truck this is going to be the best solution. Just a couple quotes from the book. Pg 107 "the head-bolt boss in the middle of the intake ports should be shaped like a wing, but left in place." And Pg 117 "for pure street use and mileage, a 1.80 diameter intake valve is best. The exhaust is 1.60 diameter in either case."
I think you already have the book. If not buy it, read it several times over the next year, then make your decisions. Lol

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

I went with 1.84 and 1.6 valves. After reading Leo Santucci's book(2nd edition) quite a bit I came to the conclusion that for a street driven truck this is going to be the best solution. Just a couple quotes from the book. Pg 107 "the head-bolt boss in the middle of the intake ports should be shaped like a wing, but left in place." And Pg 117 "for pure street use and mileage, a 1.80 diameter intake valve is best. The exhaust is 1.60 diameter in either case."
I think you already have the book. If not buy it, read it several times over the next year, then make your decisions. Lol

Sweet. That's what I did on my 2005 292 build. I rebuilt the original L25 that came in the '68 Fremont Stepside when I bought it in 1973.
In 1977 I rebuilt a MY '67 block to .030-over,but all stock, or GM parts HD, if available. That engine fran 250,000 miles in 25 years.
OBTW, 1.84'' valves are stock for the SBC 307 iirc.

That's an interesting quote from Leo. I only have the first edition.
Lump Ports were the snazzy dog trick of the period.
About 20-something years ago, I was in Daytona talking with Twisted 6, who was promoting Lump Ports. But I must admit taking away those support columns, replacing them with countersunk flush bolts, epoxying airflow Lumps down, and getting machined set screws to fit the holes left on the top of the head, is a machinist's pipe dream [and your high bill.]

I will have to get the Second Edition.

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

Sweet. That's what I did on my 2005 292 build. I rebuilt the original L25 that came in the '68 Fremont Stepside when I bought it in 1973.
In 1977 I rebuilt a MY '67 block to .030-over,but all stock, or GM parts HD, if available. That engine fran 250,000 miles in 25 years.
OBTW, 1.84'' valves are stock for the SBC 307 iirc.

That's an interesting quote from Leo. I only have the first edition.
Lump Ports were the snazzy dog trick of the period.
About 20-something years ago, I was in Daytona talking with Twisted 6, who was promoting Lump Ports. But I must admit taking away those support columns, replacing them with countersunk flush bolts, epoxying airflow Lumps down, and getting machined set screws to fit the holes left on the top of the head, is a machinist's pipe dream [and your high bill.]

I will have to get the Second Edition.

Both of those quotes are in regards to a street driven truck. For street/strip or racing the lump ports are still the way to go. Unless of course you can afford to cut & weld two SBC heads together. But that takes deep pockets because everything has to change.

[novaX522]

Got the glass beading done today. It took quite a while, but I’m happy with how clean they came out.
I painted the backside of the wheels black. I’ll let that dry tonight, then tomorrow I will spray the front with self etching primer and Dulpli color silver wheel paint.

[novaX522]

Before and after

[novaX522]

I had painted the back of the wheels black, I was being cheap with the paint. I kept seeing dark shadows on the front side. May not be visible when on the truck, but I didn’t take chances. I sprayed the backside silver.

[novaX522]

Photos

[Extended Power]

New Ringbrothers glove box lid picked up, and installed today.

[hdrolling]

Put it on some rollers and pushed baby in the corner, too cold to drive without heat so I needed to make room so the kids don't drag their school bags across it while walking by. The HF wheel dollies work great for something like this.

[novaX522]

Tonight I measured and got my new hitch placed and marked where I want it. Started drilling the holes in the frame and found the final drill bit I needed was tweaked. So, I will get some new bits tomorrow and finish mounting the hitch.

[Extended Power]

Replaced the 60lb oil pressure gauge with an Autometer 0 to 100 electric.
Had yo modify the back of the instrument panel, but I think it turned out as good as it could trying to still look stock.

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by Extended Power

Replaced the 60lb oil pressure gauge with an Autometer 0 to 100 electric.
Had yo modify the back of the instrument panel, but I think it turned out as good as it could trying to still look stock.

Nice . What did you have to modify , any pictures?

[Extended Power]

Originally Posted by 3757chevy

Nice . What did you have to modify , any pictures?

I used a 2" holesaw to cut the hole, after careful measuring, as the Autometer is in fact only a 2" gauge.
Taking the back cover off the vacuum and oil pressure gauge, I removed the oil pressure gauge by just removing the nut on the back of the sender oil line.
The gauge I removed was brand new, and the oil pressure of the new engine destroyed it. (Yhe bourdon tube tried to straighten out with the pressure...the result is in the first picture...shows almost 40 psi with no pressure applied.
Anyways....
Once the hole was drilled, I filed it just enough to allow the gauge to be tight all the way around, so I didn't need anything to hold it in place.
The gauge sits right up against the instrument panel lens...no other modifications needed.
I cut down the brass studs, as they will not be used in this application.

[3757chevy]

Originally Posted by Extended Power

I used a 2" holesaw to cut the hole, after careful measuring, as the Autometer is in fact only a 2" gauge.
Taking the back cover off the vacuum and oil pressure gauge, I removed the oil pressure gauge by just removing the nut on the back of the sender oil line.
The gauge I removed was brand new, and the oil pressure of the new engine destroyed it. (Yhe bourdon tube tried to straighten out with the pressure...the result is in the first picture...shows almost 40 psi with no pressure applied.
Anyways....
Once the hole was drilled, I filed it just enough to allow the gauge to be tight all the way around, so I didn't need anything to hold it in place.
The gauge sits right up against the instrument panel lens...no other modifications needed.
I cut down the brass studs, as they will not be used in this application.

Cool, very nice . I did something similar in the '67 I used to have with all the gauges and tach. Vacuum gauge didn't have the same style face.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Extended Power

Replaced the 60lb oil pressure gauge with an Autometer 0 to 100 electric.
Had yo modify the back of the instrument panel, but I think it turned out as good as it could trying to still look stock.

Looks nice. How much oil pressure does that monster engine have? My truck's engine was rebuilt about 40 years and 100k miles back, and it pegs the stock gauge when cold, with 10/30 oil. I'm not sure I want to crawl into the beast and pull the instrument cluster out anytime soon, though. I'd have to do it all outside in the weather.

[Extended Power]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Looks nice. How much oil pressure does that monster engine have? My truck's engine was rebuilt about 40 years and 100k miles back, and it pegs the stock gauge when cold, with 10/30 oil. I'm not sure I want to crawl into the beast and pull the instrument cluster out anytime soon, though. I'd have to do it all outside in the weather.

At an idle, just over 70 psi. Higher with rpm. (Of course)
Since I had no idea what the pressure was, I really didn’t want the gauge to fail, and have oil all over the new carpet.
Just much cleaner...no oil in the cab.

[Steeveedee]

Thanks! I think about that oil line occasionally, but it hasn't leaked in all these years. The General has a good design, there.

[Extended Power]

Installed, and lights tried out inside the shop.

Gear indicator light is ridiculously bright.

[novaX522]

Got the brakes bled.
I had to remove the 2” ball in the bumper to clear the new hitch I installed. So I cut the shank to fit and reinstalled the ball.
Then found a good place to mount the brake controller.

['68OrangeSunshine]

I was told by a friend my '71 Jimmy's RH Brake light was burned out.
It sure was. The dual filament 1157 bulb was totally black inside. No Tail light, or Turn Signals either. Also it fought me tooth-and-nail coming out. I had to unbolt the Taillight fixture, after twisting the burnt glass bulb out, take off the clipped-on pigtail, and punch out the brass collar. I put new 1157 long life bulbs in both taillights, and washed the inside dust off the red lenses. Works good now.
Also the Headlight Brights Dimmer Switch was burned out. Only Dim lights worked. Stomp again, and it went dark.
It was an O'Reilly part, and had a ''Lifetime Warranty.'' I had just replaced it in March '23. I cannibalised the old one out of my fallow-lying '67 K/10 Suburban. Dormant for ~25 years it works great. Meanwhile, I got a fresh replacement Dimmer Switch from ORAP under warranty. Not sure if I will put that switch on the Jimmy and keep the good Vintage part in the glovebox.
O'Reilly's Chinese repops don't last long.

[pjmoreland]

Originally Posted by '68OrangeSunshine

I was told by a friend my '71 Jimmy's RH Brake light was burned out.
It sure was. The dual filament 1157 bulb was totally black inside. No Tail light, or Turn Signals either. Also it fought me tooth-and-nail coming out. I had to unbolt the Taillight fixture, after twisting the burnt glass bulb out, take off the clipped-on pigtail, and punch out the brass collar. I put new 1157 long life bulbs in both taillights, and washed the inside dust off the red lenses. Works good now.
Also the Headlight Brights Dimmer Switch was burned out. Only Dim lights worked. Stomp again, and it went dark.
It was an O'Reilly part, and had a ''Lifetime Warranty.'' I had just replaced it in March '23. I cannibalised the old one out of my fallow-lying '67 K/10 Suburban. Dormant for ~25 years it works great. Meanwhile, I got a fresh replacement Dimmer Switch from ORAP under warranty. Not sure if I will put that switch on the Jimmy and keep the good Vintage part in the glovebox.
O'Reilly's Chinese repops don't last long.

I wonder if they think the "Lifetime Warranty" is an adequate substitute for good quality. I'm glad you got your lights sorted out.

I followed this thread and installed an electric fan in my truck. Pulled it out of a 2002 Jeep Liberty. I didn't realize how noisy that clutch fan actually was. My main motivation was to fix an RPM-based fan vibration. Here's a video of the electric fan running. I have it set to turn on at 205° and turn back off at 195°. It's being controlled by the Sniper.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by pjmoreland

I wonder if they think the "Lifetime Warranty" is an adequate substitute for good quality. I'm glad you got your lights sorted out.

I followed this thread and installed an electric fan in my truck. Pulled it out of a 2002 Jeep Liberty. I didn't realize how noisy that clutch fan actually was. My main motivation was to fix an RPM-based fan vibration. Here's a video of the electric fan running. I have it set to turn on at 205° and turn back off at 195°. It's being controlled by the Sniper.

Either that, or some ''Marketing Genius'' decided repeat failures would get people into the store more often to buy other stuff.
Probably the same guy who figured if supermarkets change the layout of their store more often, the shopper will be presented with other purchasing options they wouldn't see if they just kept coming to the same aisle to get their regular stuff every time. Usually by the time you found what items you're looking for, you find the prices went up to cover the move. Collossal waste of time, IMO.

They are quite unpopular now, but I have Flex Fans on both my 292 L6 and 350 V8. No fan clutch at all. Keeping them. [Lifetime Warranty, too.] Very popular in the Late '70s.
Don't care for Internet Experts' opinions.

Cheers, Pat. Raining cats 'n' dogs here.

[novaX522]

It’s $12.50 a can. Like everything else, outrageous.
In spite of the cost, I do like the paint.

[MS66]

Originally Posted by novax522

it’s $12.50 a can. Like everything else, outrageous.
In spite of the cost, i do like the paint.

10-4.