Restoring Rusty

[D13]

POR-15 is a water cured urethane (not really a paint). It needs something rough to grab on. It will not stick unless the surface is contaminate free (clean) and rough. That's why it works good on rust (lots of little cracks and pores) and simply does not stick on clean smooth surfaces. It doesn't really chemically bond well, the attachment is more mechanical. It works by sealing the air away from the rust site, stopping firther oxidation.
Muriatic acid on the surface under it created a new layer of damage between what the POR was bonded to and the good metal. Now the POR is no longer 'attached' to the surface and just flakes off. BTDT.

[Gregski]

went out and bought more legos today, surely there's got to be a bypass hose solution somewhere among them

[Gregski]

so our mission should we choose to accept it, SIMPLE... replace that straight 3/4" hose fitting with a 45* degree one, connect the bypass hose and have a beer, how hard could it be?

alright, so we got the old fitting out, did a stare and compare for the audience, and screwed the new one in, using that white goop on the threads, which is absolutely fantastic, love that stuff

well, it all screwed in nice, and looked good, but it did not work, the hose was too kinked, and we did not have a pre molded one to use, so back to the drawing board we went

[Gregski]

I know, let's give that 90* fitting a try now with its little buddy the extension it should screw in just fine

ok, stare and compare - check

screw the base in - check

screw the 90 in - check

looks kinda hokey and too modular but it will pass the 50 feet rule, and still impress the ladies I'm sure

[Gregski]

OK, let's conectize that bypass hose and have that beer, lets go

again, someday we will find a molded 3/4" hose to take this one's job, but for now it will do... [say it with me now] IT'S A TRUCK !!!

[Gregski]

and for a test drive we went, we had to see if running a bypass hose would test any different than running the heater core, and it looks good, no difference a bit cooler actually at 184* F but that's because it was a bit cooler outside today during the test, 86* F instead of 88* F like yesterday

[Gregski]

FORUMnians let me take you to the College of NPT Knowlege, for those of you uninitiated NPT stands for National Pipe Thread, or as I like to call it Eh Close Enuff thread size, for instance believe it or not the sizes of the temperature sending units below are 1/8", 3/8" and 1/2" in NPT lingo, and not that at all in the real world, but that's par for the course, their accompanying adapters, reducers as they are sometimes called, or even shims I placed next to them so you can see how we can take the 1/8" thingmajig and make it fit into the 70's heads or the 90's heads

word on the street is that when you buy a universal gauge these days it comes with a sending unit in a size of 1/8" and places like Summit know that you need 3/8" so they throw in the 1/2" adapter for FREE, LOL, others like Autometer (pronounces: OVERPRICED) will give you a couple adapters like the 3/8" and 1/2", guilt I think, guilt makes them throw those in, ha ha

[Gregski]

gentlemen, clearly there is no shortage of work in The Greg's Garage, and what I should have been doing was bolting up the hinges so we could put the hood back on, or troubleshooting that annoying ticking sound, or dialing in the timing advance, but instead we did what any unreasonable Hot Roder would do, we tinkered with something totally else

I mean we can't have that water temp gauge sitting atop the dash like that, that's Amateur Hour people, - amateur hour, what are we Ford Owners or something...

[Gregski]

folks I don't know about you, but I have never been more underwhelmed with a tool than I am with the Dremel, it never ceases to unimpress me, it's such a toy, such a gimick tool

here we are trying to cut some measly plastic and all it does is what it always does, it just melts it

even when we went out and spent like $15 bucks on these tiny cut off wheels, all they do is melt the plastic, oh excuse me, melt it less, ha ha

I think they do such a lame job at cutting so they can sell you yet another attachment, like their lame sanding wheel, ha ha

so here we have it, 1, 2, 3, and 4 holes trimmed and sanded semi flat

[Gregski]

so time for a trial fit, fits pretty good, almost perfect, now the old gauges believe it or not where not really on center in those holes they are kind juxter posed so we could kill ourselves sanding and trying to get our perfectly centered but than the holes may end up too big, so we are just going to call it good enuff

with the provided back clip this is almost too easy, and how sexy is that, I mean have you seen anything sweeter

[Gregski]

as you can see we installed the oil gauge already above the water one, and also installed the oil pressure sending unit, but did not have a chance to run the wires yet, we will do that tomorrow

here is my old oil pressure sending unit on the left compared to the Summit brand one on the right

[Gregski]

I also returned the water temp sending unit to it's natural habitat in the left cylinder head between the #1 and the #3 cylinders and plugged the holes in the temporary water outlet, I will be putting my old one back on tomorrow, no need for all those scars and holes and clutter, so unpleasing to the eye, and the Pebble Peach judges are such sticklers for de-tail

can't wait to test drive the truck tomorrow and see how much hotter if any the water temp gauge reads now that the sending unit is in the cylinder head

Also Note: and I may have said this before, eventually I plan on running two water temp gauges, pulling signals from both cylinder heads, (now accepting donations, lol, jk)

I also must have set a Wold Indoor Record for the most times draining the coolant and refilling it freestyle in 72 consecutive hours, ha ha, no kidding and not a drop went a wasted, ok a few drops snuck by, sue me

and those hose clamps, or as I like to call 'em Weapons of Mass Destruction or WMDs, those will be replaced with T-Bolt style ones too, man I can't stand those slotted sharp as a knife ugly blades

[Gregski]

and I leave you with a little then and now, engine shots, oh how far we've come Rusty

... yes the wiring is still a mess

[phillip123hastings]

Rusty marks incredible improvement as I can see good job!

[enaberif]

Sorry Gregski but I am going to be a bit critical here and say that NPT actually stands for National Pipe Thread Taper. This is because if you look at the actual threading you'll notice it is "tapered.

The rest is looking good and that engine bay looks awesome. If you are wanting to NOT have a kinked hose you could look into either a internal or external spring like they put into the lower radiator hoses.

[daddyjeep]

Very nice Greg. I really like to alternator relocation. It adds symmetry to the engine. That green wire looped around the heater hose is a nice touch too, it adds a little more green accent to the green engine bay.

[rusty76]

How come you didn't just come off the very front of the intake and into the pump. That's where the bypass hose was on our work truck. Just curious. Looks great either way. The engine bay looks great

[Gregski]

Originally Posted by daddyjeep

... That green wire looped around the heater hose is a nice touch too, it adds a little more green accent to the green engine bay.

Thanks for making me laugh, that made my day!

[Gregski]

OK, so first thing today we checked that transplanted reverese switch from the Muncie to the New Process transmission and it works beautifully

[Gregski]

then we took the truck for a test drive to see what the coolant temperature sending unit would read now at it's new location in the driver side cylinder head and it reads about the same 183* F granted it was a bit cooler this morning

however note the almost 10* change ie increase to 192* F when the truck is turned off in the garage at the end of our 30 minute test drive, ever wonder why the electric fans keep running after you shut your car off for a while while you hit the liquor store? well they is a coolin your enjin, my German automobile even had two water pumps a mechanical and an electronic and it ran the electronic one after I shut off the car as well as the fan to keep the coolant circulating even after the car was off, food for thought

so now do you see why the Greg stepped down to a cooler thermostat of 180*, he don't want them Vortec heads a crackin' after he turns Rusty off one Hot August Night

~ I'm just sayin' folks, I'm just sayin'

[Gregski]

remember how the Greg deleted the High Beam / Low Beam switch off the floor, well now no headligths work at all, IMAGINE THAT?

so next we had to install a loopback wire to get the lowbeams to come on, no that's not a fuse in the wire, we had to use a butt connector on two wires with blade connectors already on them since we did not have any spare blade connectors to build a new wire, yes we are poor right now

hey it's a temporary permanent solution, you know what I'm sayin' Vern?

[Gregski]

then it was time to wire up that brand new made in the U.S.A. Summit brand oil pressure gauge, and so we did

here it is on for the very first time

00 and OIL how simple is that - sometimes less is more

apologies for the camera it don't like things shining lights back at it

[Gregski]

reading 48 PSI of OIL pressure and 140 degrees Far -n- High for the coolant temperature while the truck warms up

things are looking good...

[Gregski]

and with the truck warmed up 22 PSI OIL pressure while sitting at a red light idling with the truck nice and warmed up at a cool 185* F, ha ha

did I mention I absolutely LOVE these gauges ! love em!

[Gregski]

so a little recap on my hood hinges

in the beginning they were rusty, typical for 40 year old

so I used Muriatic acid to clean them up real good down to bare metal - that acid was a mistake

then I painted them black (no primer, the paint said primer was optional)