Project: Recycle

[SCOTI]

I did notice one thing I'm not happy about & will consider it a 'lesson learned'.

I cleaned a bunch of areas on the frame w/a cut-off wheel on the angle grinder. The 60-grit sanding discs would 'load-up' w/the OE coating on the frame or from the coating on the new steel. The edge of the cut-off wheel sanded through it w/o issue so I used it for stripping the old stuff off. As mentioned in an earlier post, just before taking everything to the coaters, I went over everything again w/some 60-grit discs. The frame appeared very uniform.

I can clearly see where the cut-off disc (used @ an angle) gouged the steel during the stripping process. It's not the end of the world but I don't like that it's there.

I'd hope to get a few pics today but the painting process is deciding otherwise. I still had some misc brackets that needed attention & started working on them yesterday along w/the a-arms. I decided to use Rustoleum brand paints after seeing a couple of members use them.

I got the 'professional' series that indicates "quick drying" times but I'm not seeing it (can indicates 15-20mins between coats/dry to touch). Because of the recent weather, I'm painting in a boiler room @ work for consistency. The room temp varies between 90-100°F & it's dry..... Paint drying times for me?? 30-40 mins & the stuff is still tacky (I'm not putting down wet coats either).

Back to VHT for me.....

[watahyahknow]

hmmm the long drying times might be because the paint is too thick or aplied too thick , it could allso be that the paint is reacting to the new powdercoat , talk to the powdercoat man about that one maibe he knows
personally i would keep using the rustoleum

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

hmmm the long drying times might be because the paint is too thick or aplied too thick , it could allso be that the paint is reacting to the new powdercoat , talk to the powdercoat man about that one maibe he knows
personally i would keep using the rustoleum

These parts were bare steel; not over powder coat.

I've shot enough paint from a rattle can to know a dry coat to a medium or wet. I shot the parts dry to medium. There's enough orange peel to suggest I'm not laying it on wet enough but I can't imagine how long that would take to set up.

I shot one part Thursday night (a small spacer). It sat for approx 1-1.5hrs before I cleaned up for the night. It was dry to the touch so I moved it to another spot for overnight storage. When I went to install it Friday afternoon, it was stuck to the surface I placed it on (remember, it was dry to the touch).

I've used Rustoleum brand paint before & did not like the long drying times (I don't see how you can get good results shooting a part in your driveway or garage where conditions are never optimum w/such a long 'dry time').

This is why I tried this 'professional' series because it's supposed to dry much faster.

[Painter D]

Yeah, Rustoleum exaggerates their dry times quite a bit.

[LEEVON]

Hmmm, I just picked up a rattle can of the rustoleum pro today for the same use, a few spots on the frame that don't justify mixing and shooting a pot of epoxy. I'll let you know what my dry times are, it's about 60 degrees here too so that will be a test.

I like the rustoleum etch primer in a can for small parts, it sticks like real etch and i just topcoat it with whatever black I have laying around.

[SCOTI]

Well, not much of an update but my buddy Matt that was w/me to pick-up the parts & get the main x-members connected last Thursday sent me some pics he took that day.

I got the BJ's pressed out of the lower a-arms, got them taped off, degreased, & in some Rustoleum primer. The uppers got the bushings taped off & then degreased before I ran out of time on Sat night. I wanted to get the uppers in primer but there wasn't enough in the can to get even one partially done & a trip to the local hardware joint would have added @ least another 40mins to the drill so I held off.

I was sick Mon + Tues & spent today trying to get back up to speed. Maybe tomorrow I'll get the uppers primed & then some....

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by 69chevyshort

Yeah, Rustoleum exaggerates their dry times quite a bit.

There is a formula to correct the Rustoleum "advertised" dry time. I believe you multiply the hours suggested x days and it comes out about right. 3-4 hours dry time equates to 3-4 days if I'm not mistaken...

[Painter D]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

There is a formula to correct the Rustoleum "advertised" dry time. I believe you multiply the hours suggested x days and it comes out about right. 3-4 hours dry time equates to 3-4 days if I'm not mistaken...

Sounds about right

[72BlckButy]

Those rails look good SCOTI!

[67cheby]

looks Slick

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Looks great scoti I was debating on doing this to mine and it looks like you got me talked into it.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by lakeroadster

Scoti,

You planning on bolting everything back together via the rivet holes? What grade fasteners you planning to use? Loctite too?

Yes. Everything re-fastened w/bright yellow zinc plated GRADE-8 hardware w/lock washers (both sides) & nyloc nuts. The truck arm front mounts are actually GRADE-9 fasteners (fine thread, w/dual lock washers & nyloc nuts) sice they're spaced away from the x-member vs. being bolted directly against the x-member.

[SCOTI]

My buddy Matt showed up tonight so we were able to measure the frame for square. We measured from a small notch in each rail (located near the front x-member bolt) back to the last 2 OE punched holes on the top of the rails. Over a span of 13', we were .125 off.

So the front x-member & associated parts are officially tightend down. I was hoping to hang the a-arms & spindles but the backing plate bolt holes need to be tapped on the spindles & the upper a-arm BJ bolts were too long (couldn't get the exact size I wanted today). I'll correct those issues tomorrow.

Matt took the HD drums w/him & will get them turned for me @ his work. I still need to do more cleaning on the rear housing before parts can be attached or color can be applied. Gettin' closer . . .....

[67cheby]

worthless without pics

[SCOTI]

It would just be the same ol stuff ..... Regardless, I'll get some before the weekend is over.

Today I worked on tightening more of the various x-members (front splash pan, rear shock x-member, Panhard bar x-member), & I bolted up the front-bumper frame brackets. I figured I'm @ the point of installing the front a-arms, spindles, brakes, & rear suspension, so off the frame 'jig' it came. It's officially on jackstands.

[Jonboy]

Right on!

[67cheby]

great progress

[n2billet]

All this and still no pictures.....................

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by n2billet

All this and still no pictures.....................

Originally Posted by kev2809

^^^ lol

progress is progress man, your doin some nice detailed work!

......now post some pics

Crappy lighting, parts, steel, tools, & other various equipment in the way of decent pics. My hope was to roll it out for some pics in the sun....

Edit: I added these cell pics I took mid day to send to Matt. He also took a couple of pics from his phone which are typically very decent. I'm waiting for them to upload to my e-mail & I'll post them up once they do....

[kev2809]

^^^ lol

progress is progress man, your doin some nice detailed work!

......now post some pics

[N2TRUX]

Progress looks good Scot. Crappy pics, set backs, and all aside it still looks much better than a bare frame.

[67cheby]

looks sweet did you have the billet brake line clamps made or is it something you can buy, they look great !!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

looks sweet did you have the billet brake line clamps made or is it something you can buy, they look great !!

Had some made after ordering in something similar (but different size). **Edited w/the pics Matt took.

[SCOTI]

Truck arms tight w/pinion shims installed. Prob will swap the 3° shims for the 2.5° set.

Got the correct 'front' truck arm bolts & nylock nuts. The one's previously installed were coarse thread & barely long enough. I swapped them for some longer, fine thread bolts (I used fine thread on the TA mounts too).

I got new upper a-arm nuts & got them installed. I decided to just clean & paint the existing OE washers & run them. It's not 100% tight but snugged down (waiting to set it on the ground under weight before final tightening). I then went to snug up the lower a-arm hardware & realized the bushing 'sleeves' were too long. A quick text to Mr. Porter confirmed they're trim to fit so I took care of that.

I didn't have the correct upper shock bolts (too short) so I got longer ones & swapped them in place. Other than that, trips to Fastenall & Lowes to swap some 'un-used' hardware for different stuff I will use.

I've been moving the rear HD drum set-up in & out of the truck hoping to have enough time to get them in color & swapped into place but haven't had enough time yet. Need to get the front rotors in color as well so they can be installed . ....

[67cheby]

the new pics look super nice , very detailed nice work !!