No Limit's "K-10"

[robnolimit]

Yep, have to raise the rear openings too. I need to be able to pull a tire without to much work. I make the wheel opening lips in three pieces, well actually seven, but in three layers. The flat lip, and two for the radius edges.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

More updates **** I got to go get a beer...

[robnolimit]

here it is with the OE openings cut out, and the new shape in place.

[robnolimit]

this is the hard part to fit. I made a tape template first to get the shape, the trimmed the metal to fit.

[-Greg72]

Originally Posted by robnolimit

this is the hard part to fit. I made a tape template first to get the shape, the trimmed the metal to fit.

Hi Rob.....

I sure hope you are still subscribed to this thread (it's been 4 years!). I work slowly, so it took me a while to get to the point where I could ask you this question. I've been studying these photos for a while and trying to understand how you accomplished this:





There are two major components to this, the front vertical arch shape (Yellow Arrow) and the transition piece that connects that wider arch to the original bedside. (Red Arrow)


The first part (vertical arch) seems pretty straightforward. Just pick a new larger radius and cut a band that is between 1.25" and 1.5" wide (to match the factory lip dimensions)... then attach it to the lower bedsides with Clecos and start finessing the top of the arch to whatever amount of extra flare you like.

The filler section (red arch) is the one that I'm most confused about. How did you determine how wide to make that filler at the very top of the arch? It looks like maybe 3.5 - 4"?? Then tapers-down to perhaps 1.25" at the ends? I was curious if there was a specific trick to picking those dimensions or if it was purely based on aesthetics and a lot of trial-and-error?

I'm asking because I've got a similar problem to solve on my 1972 K5 Blazer. The additional challenge is that the tires stick out about 3" beyond the stock fenders, so I can't see any possible way to build a decent looking flare that will actually cover the tire. The best I can hope for is to follow the tire shape and leave maybe 1/2" of clearance all the way around it when the suspension is fully-bottomed out so that it won't touch.

I moved my rear axle back about 3".....so my wheel arch is nowhere near "centered" as a starting point.




This is basically how it looks with tape and paper to create a radius from the wheel center (suspension at full-compression). This allows me to draw the marks for the "yellow arrow" arch piece that goes on first.

I'm just using a long section of threaded rod and nuts to create a large "compass" that can hold my Sharpie markers and transfer the curves to paper.







My questions are:

1. How did you create that filler panel shape initially? Was that traced out on flat sheet and then rolled gently to give it the right "curve"?

2. Were you somehow able to determine the taper ahead of time (where it touches the bedside) or what that just a tedious process of trimming, test fitting and marking to eventually get a tight fitment?

3. Any other cautionary tales or lessons-learned you'd be willing to share about that process?




I'm going to struggle through this process and get it figured out no matter what, but I was hoping you might have a few words of advice or help to get me through it a little easier.


Thanks in advance.


-G

[robnolimit]

I'm not even done working and I just had a beer.

[duallyjams]

Sounds good I think I'll grab me a beer.

[67cheby]

Wow looking cool
Posted via Mobile Device

[oldman3]

Cool....Jim

[68 TT]

Very nice. I like how you make the flares blend into the stock body lines. It really helps the flares not look tacked on like many do. Great work.

[Dunenutt]

It just keeps getting better!

Hurry up, Goodguys Scottsdale is Mar 9! The schedule says autocross.

[robnolimit]

this is the finished pass side, only one left to do. The drivers side uncut. Drivers side opening with the lip on it.

[robnolimit]

Oops, another shot of the pass side rear. And with the tire in it at ride height. here is a shot of the goofy panhard rod set up, passing through the torque arm.

[robnolimit]

The axle mount for the panhard rod, this is my first real quichchange build, and it does add to the difficulty. The front mount of the torque arm has five positions to mount the link. When I assemble it for real, I'll put all the bearings and bushings in place, so that tuning will be easier.

[robnolimit]

This is the beggining of the fuel tank. Lots of baffles and traps. This is one of those parts that has to do many things. As well as the fuel tank, this has to act as an air deflector for the radiator, and allow access for the rear quickchange cover to swap gears.

[67cheby]

This thing is crazy cool
Posted via Mobile Device

[jasonhall]

very cool!

[dnd1978]

I can not wait to see this truck on the track!

[ferk_3131]

Any updates on the hood?
Posted via Mobile Device

[mcbassin]

Crazy metal fab skills! I'm loving all the cool designs. It would be cool to see what equipment you use to form and shape your metal. Tools I obviously don't have....

[5150.4.67]

Did you switch to Winters hubs?

[robnolimit]

the front hubs are Wilwood, the rears are Speedway Eng.

[robnolimit]

Hang on to your hats, new picts coming. Saturday we re-assembleb most of the big parts. This was the last fit up. With everything together it was time to start the finish work. Tabs for everything, holes for everthing, mounting spots for everything....... this stuff moves pretty quick, but after a few full days of it, it still looks the same. Finally, we pulled it off of the build rack and set it on the ground. All I can say is, WOW!!!!

[mooseknuckles]

can't wait....make it soon...

[chapster]

Nice........