Senior Project Build - Page 16 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

LuckyHenriksen · 01-20-2009, 12:03 AM

Decided that forced induction was out of the budget so I am just bumping the comp to get even more power.

LuckyHenriksen · 01-20-2009, 12:08 AM

Here are the valve covers I have been grinding on. I am trying to get them smooth as possible and then coat them in some aluminum paint to match the intake

And now a few questions-

What is this thing on the side of the oil pan? Some sort of sensor? What do I do with it?

And I assume the two smaller outlets are supposed to go to a heater? I am not running a heater, so how can I plug the hole?

And on the valve covers, what do these two things do? Do I need them? Can I remove or plug them?

67ChevyRedneck · 01-20-2009, 02:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LuckyHenriksen

That hole is for the PCV.

TwoFiftyShifter · 01-20-2009, 12:10 AM

Do you got to some sort professsional high school? Why is it that you get boxes of parts from Jegs, and I'm broke as a mofo?

Keep it up great build.....

67ChevyRedneck · 01-20-2009, 12:17 AM

I think it's an oil level monitor. When the oil dips below that sensor, it sets off the SES light.

LuckyHenriksen · 01-20-2009, 12:24 AM

Yep. Professional high school. So since I am not using EFI can I pull out the sensor and plug the hole? Or just leave it in there.

texanidiot25 · 01-20-2009, 12:32 AM

I'd imagnin epart of the PCV system

texanidiot25 · 01-20-2009, 12:33 AM

Andhow do you afford this crap?

LuckyHenriksen · 01-20-2009, 12:47 AM

So can I plug it?

67ChevyRedneck · 01-20-2009, 02:08 AM

I guess you could plug it... but how are you going to be wiring the engine... will you still be using the computer?

LuckyHenriksen · 01-20-2009, 02:29 AM

No wiring. Going carb with MSD box

texanidiot25 · 01-20-2009, 02:34 AM

As for the heater tubes, ones an outlt and ones an inlet i assume? I dunno if you can block it, but there's no problem with just running a loop from one into the other with some short piece of hose. Doesn't seem like you can just screw in a bolt or a plug like on an old school SBC

LuckyHenriksen · 01-20-2009, 02:42 AM

I was wishing I could just plug the holes, but they aren't threaded. It would look cleaner than a hose loop. I think I have to get them pressed out at a machine shop, which seems like a waste of time and money to me. I guess a loop is my answer.

67ChevyRedneck · 01-20-2009, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LuckyHenriksen

I was wishing I could just plug the holes, but they aren't threaded. It would look cleaner than a hose loop. I think I have to get them pressed out at a machine shop, which seems like a waste of time and money to me. I guess a loop is my answer.

The one in the oil pan isn't threaded? Seriously?

LuckyHenriksen · 01-20-2009, 08:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 67ChevyRedneck

The one in the oil pan isn't threaded? Seriously?

No the one in the pan is, I was talking about the heater outlets

texanidiot25 · 01-20-2009, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LuckyHenriksen

I was wishing I could just plug the holes, but they aren't threaded. It would look cleaner than a hose loop. I think I have to get them pressed out at a machine shop, which seems like a waste of time and money to me. I guess a loop is my answer.

See my wonder is that if you plug it will it affect coolant flow to some spots, or would that plug hold uner the water pressure? Unless you were to weld a plug in.

mike nutt · 01-20-2009, 07:10 AM

as far as your motor being an lq4 or lq9 , the lq4 has a slight dish in the piston and the lq9 is a flat top. mine is an lq9. i used the 317 heads which is the same as the ls6 head with a slighty larger combustion chamber (71.06cc vs 64.45cc). i had my head deck and changed to the ls6 valve springs . the later lq4 and all lq9's have the same cam as the ls1. according to the machine shop should yeald a 10.8 compression ratio,

LuckyHenriksen · 01-20-2009, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike nutt

as far as your motor being an lq4 or lq9 , the lq4 has a slight dish in the piston and the lq9 is a flat top. mine is an lq9. i used the 317 heads which is the same as the ls6 head with a slighty larger combustion chamber (71.06cc vs 64.45cc). i had my head deck and changed to the ls6 valve springs . the later lq4 and all lq9's have the same cam as the ls1. according to the machine shop should yeald a 10.8 compression ratio,

Mike, how did you mask the deck to keep the motor so clean while you painted?

mike nutt · 01-20-2009, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LuckyHenriksen

Mike, how did you mask the deck to keep the motor so clean while you painted?

Lucky
when i painted mine ,i bolted the heads down with a couple of bolts , then taped the heads up .
are you going to run a turbo or belt driven supercharger ? the engine i'm using had a supercharger with too much boost , it busted two pistons and spun the balancer on the crankshaft. if you gonna run a belt driven supercharger you need to have the crank and balancer keyed and forged pistons would be a big help for the motor to last .

LuckyHenriksen · 01-20-2009, 11:00 AM

Looks good Mike, I believe mine are flat tops. So I should have stronger rods eh

67ChevyRedneck · 01-20-2009, 11:46 AM

Also, this thing is a vacuum line that connects to the throttle body. Not sure what it does, probably has to do with idle/start up/advance. Now, on say a 350 with a carb, there would be a vaccum line to run the advance on an HEI from the carb to the HEI. This line probably serves the same purpose on a FI TB vehicle. I'm not sure how that works with no distributor? Will your set up keep the coil packs? And if so, what will "run" them.

I'm very interested in this swap, as computers scare the crap out of me, and eliminating the computer eliminates lots of wiring, and the huge expense of getting it reprogrammed and tuned.

You need to figure out how you're going to get a PCV set up and how your going to vent the motor. I could swear I recently saw a LS motor with an old school filter style vent where the oil fill is, that would take care of that, but you probably need to leave the PCV on the DS.

LuckyHenriksen · 01-20-2009, 09:00 PM

Damn. Oh well LQ4's are great too. I can't wait to see 15 PSI through yours SCIV! And 67redneck, I am using the MSD ignition controller that runs the stock coils. From what I have read, it does a marvelous job, and you can make custom timing curves using a lap top. And on the PCV, I will have the filter in the oil fill that you speak of. A few pages back I posted a picture of a carb 6.0 in an IROC camaro, it has the breather setup that I am going to run.

LuckyHenriksen · 01-20-2009, 09:57 PM

So I traded my 317 heads, truck intake, and some cash for a set of L92's, but one cylinder dropped a valve. The motor was out of a 2007 Escalade with 7k on it. The whole motor was pulled under warranty. The machine shop quote to fix it is $110. While they are in the machine shop, is there anything I can have done to help increase HP? I have been told that I can mill a little off to bump up the compression, is this a good idea? And is there any porting or polishing that can be done? Oh, and do the pushrods from the 317 heads fit the L92's?

LuckyHenriksen · 01-21-2009, 12:27 AM

Cool Mike, but my plans of forced induction have been placed aside due to budget concerns. I am just going to run NA. I will keep that in mind in the future though. That is a good idea, I was thinking about tracing my heads to make a couple of cardboard covers to keep paint out.

LuckyHenriksen · 01-21-2009, 03:34 AM

Got the valley cover off

And have some more questions.

When I use the MSD box do I reuse any of the stock harness from the coil packs?

And I have two flexplates, one from my motor and another from the 2007 caddy motor. They seem to be exactly the same, is one better?

And I have a couple coats of paint on the valve covers now, and also on the valley pan.

01-20-2009, 12:03 AM	#1
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Senior Project Build Decided that forced induction was out of the budget so I am just bumping the comp to get even more power. __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here

01-20-2009, 12:08 AM	#2
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Senior Project Build Here are the valve covers I have been grinding on. I am trying to get them smooth as possible and then coat them in some aluminum paint to match the intake And now a few questions- What is this thing on the side of the oil pan? Some sort of sensor? What do I do with it? And I assume the two smaller outlets are supposed to go to a heater? I am not running a heater, so how can I plug the hole? And on the valve covers, what do these two things do? Do I need them? Can I remove or plug them? __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here

01-20-2009, 12:10 AM	#4
TwoFiftyShifter Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Gwinnett GA Posts: 1,803	Re: Senior Project Build Do you got to some sort professsional high school? Why is it that you get boxes of parts from Jegs, and I'm broke as a mofo? Keep it up great build..... __________________ 1982 K10 SWB 1987 V20 - Sold - Doh!

01-20-2009, 12:17 AM	#5
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: Senior Project Build I think it's an oil level monitor. When the oil dips below that sensor, it sets off the SES light. __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!

01-20-2009, 12:24 AM	#6
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Senior Project Build Yep. Professional high school. So since I am not using EFI can I pull out the sensor and plug the hole? Or just leave it in there. __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here

01-20-2009, 12:32 AM	#7
texanidiot25 Eat My Rust Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cypress, Texas Posts: 3,362	Re: Senior Project Build I'd imagnin epart of the PCV system

01-20-2009, 12:33 AM	#8
texanidiot25 Eat My Rust Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cypress, Texas Posts: 3,362	Re: Senior Project Build Andhow do you afford this crap?

01-20-2009, 12:47 AM	#9
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Senior Project Build So can I plug it? __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here

01-20-2009, 02:08 AM	#10
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: Senior Project Build I guess you could plug it... but how are you going to be wiring the engine... will you still be using the computer? __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications!

01-20-2009, 02:29 AM	#11
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Senior Project Build No wiring. Going carb with MSD box __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here

01-20-2009, 02:34 AM	#12
texanidiot25 Eat My Rust Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Cypress, Texas Posts: 3,362	Re: Senior Project Build As for the heater tubes, ones an outlt and ones an inlet i assume? I dunno if you can block it, but there's no problem with just running a loop from one into the other with some short piece of hose. Doesn't seem like you can just screw in a bolt or a plug like on an old school SBC

01-20-2009, 02:42 AM	#13
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Senior Project Build I was wishing I could just plug the holes, but they aren't threaded. It would look cleaner than a hose loop. I think I have to get them pressed out at a machine shop, which seems like a waste of time and money to me. I guess a loop is my answer. __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here Last edited by LuckyHenriksen; 01-20-2009 at 02:49 AM.

01-20-2009, 07:10 AM	#17
mike nutt 69fatmotor Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: bama Posts: 660	Re: Senior Project Build as far as your motor being an lq4 or lq9 , the lq4 has a slight dish in the piston and the lq9 is a flat top. mine is an lq9. i used the 317 heads which is the same as the ls6 head with a slighty larger combustion chamber (71.06cc vs 64.45cc). i had my head deck and changed to the ls6 valve springs . the later lq4 and all lq9's have the same cam as the ls1. according to the machine shop should yeald a 10.8 compression ratio, Last edited by mike nutt; 02-22-2009 at 08:48 PM.

01-20-2009, 11:00 AM	#20
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Senior Project Build Looks good Mike, I believe mine are flat tops. So I should have stronger rods eh __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here

01-20-2009, 11:46 AM	#21
67ChevyRedneck Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 23,090	Re: Senior Project Build Also, this thing is a vacuum line that connects to the throttle body. Not sure what it does, probably has to do with idle/start up/advance. Now, on say a 350 with a carb, there would be a vaccum line to run the advance on an HEI from the carb to the HEI. This line probably serves the same purpose on a FI TB vehicle. I'm not sure how that works with no distributor? Will your set up keep the coil packs? And if so, what will "run" them. I'm very interested in this swap, as computers scare the crap out of me, and eliminating the computer eliminates lots of wiring, and the huge expense of getting it reprogrammed and tuned. You need to figure out how you're going to get a PCV set up and how your going to vent the motor. I could swear I recently saw a LS motor with an old school filter style vent where the oil fill is, that would take care of that, but you probably need to leave the PCV on the DS. __________________ Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride American Born, Country by the Grace of God 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications! Last edited by 67ChevyRedneck; 01-20-2009 at 11:51 AM.



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01-20-2009, 09:00 PM	#22
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Senior Project Build Damn. Oh well LQ4's are great too. I can't wait to see 15 PSI through yours SCIV! And 67redneck, I am using the MSD ignition controller that runs the stock coils. From what I have read, it does a marvelous job, and you can make custom timing curves using a lap top. And on the PCV, I will have the filter in the oil fill that you speak of. A few pages back I posted a picture of a carb 6.0 in an IROC camaro, it has the breather setup that I am going to run. __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here

01-20-2009, 09:57 PM	#23
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Senior Project Build So I traded my 317 heads, truck intake, and some cash for a set of L92's, but one cylinder dropped a valve. The motor was out of a 2007 Escalade with 7k on it. The whole motor was pulled under warranty. The machine shop quote to fix it is $110. While they are in the machine shop, is there anything I can have done to help increase HP? I have been told that I can mill a little off to bump up the compression, is this a good idea? And is there any porting or polishing that can be done? Oh, and do the pushrods from the 317 heads fit the L92's? __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here

01-21-2009, 12:27 AM	#24
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Senior Project Build Cool Mike, but my plans of forced induction have been placed aside due to budget concerns. I am just going to run NA. I will keep that in mind in the future though. That is a good idea, I was thinking about tracing my heads to make a couple of cardboard covers to keep paint out. __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here Last edited by LuckyHenriksen; 01-21-2009 at 03:39 AM.

01-21-2009, 03:34 AM	#25
LuckyHenriksen Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Sherwood Oregon Posts: 1,908	Re: Senior Project Build Got the valley cover off And have some more questions. When I use the MSD box do I reuse any of the stock harness from the coil packs? And I have two flexplates, one from my motor and another from the 2007 caddy motor. They seem to be exactly the same, is one better? And I have a couple coats of paint on the valve covers now, and also on the valley pan. __________________ 1968 Yenko Chevy LWB 6.0L/TH400 3/4 Drop Senior Project Build Thread Here

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