Build that 71 402 already

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

What a twist man. I delivered my bumpers for re-chroming in Fresno. That's 500 miles RT though from Fresno I run three hours north to see my girlfriend. Anyway, I picked them up Friday. Rear is Grrrrreat, and after rechrome you can clearly see the two holes I punched into it. But I didn't see them on the front bumper, which supposedly had to be rechromed twice due a scratch. Took much longer to do too, by 3 months, yet it was in the best shape of the two by far.

So I figured well, maybe I made a mistake or the dimples filled in somehow, I'm tired, here's 1600 bucks, bye. Don't do that, it was almost a huge mistake. I didn't have all the material I needed and gave them the benefit of the doubt. But a mile down the road I weighed it, which was a match, so that eased my head, at least until I could break them out at home.

Full inspection yesterday, I have the before and after pictures on a desktop. They gave me a different bumper for too many reasons, pictured. There's even a part number stamped in 5-6 places. To my knowledge original bumpers are unstamped, they only had a decal. The interiors of the "rechromed" bumpers also look completely different. The front looks more like a new reproduction bumper, though the bumper exterior finishes look the same.

So I slepted just a wink last night, oh no, out $800 plus my bumper is Gooooooooooooooone. Collected info. last night and made a phone call this morning. The guy I've been dealing with was great. He put me in touch with the boss who spent part of his day looking for my bumper at his repairman's place, oh noooooo!

He just contacted me with LOTS of pictures, they found my bumper and said turnaround is ASAP instead of 5 months, and they offered to meet me half way or better.

That my friends is lucky, and shows good faith in Fresno. Yikes, you should see the place.

The finishes really do look the same. Though the front has a slight flaw I missed when I picked it up, dodged another bullet. Now look at the rear sides. Same shop? WTH? Makes me think the front is a new repro., though it's interior shows 20+ punch appearing dents in the back, about 1/4" each. Oh, and the part number on the replacement.

[pjmoreland]

Wow. That is not cool.

[zicc1835]

and I thought I was hitting bumps in the road with my build ... bad dinged up and scratched repop bumper was replaced by Jeff Cooperrestorations in less than a month great guy to deal with .....good luck on the rest of the story

[mr.mud1]

geez Tony,that's not performance.that front bumper sure does look like a repro.i have only ever handled a few repops but they always seemed to be lighter and lighter gauge material,making it easy to tell.that number stamped in the bumper isn't enough numbers to be a GM Part number,as you know.if i read this right,they have your correct bumper and will be doing that one ASAP?hope so.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by mr.mud1

geez Tony,that's not performance.that front bumper sure does look like a repro.i have only ever handled a few repops but they always seemed to be lighter and lighter gauge material,making it easy to tell.that number stamped in the bumper isn't enough numbers to be a GM Part number,as you know.if i read this right,they have your correct bumper and will be doing that one ASAP?hope so.

Yes they have my bumper and turn around "asap". It's already been five months. I agree, the replacement front bumper does strike me as a reproduction. Only thing I don't get is it has pock marks like these in places, like it's seen work. Why "rework" a repop. which the bumper is??? Couldn't tell you.

Picture of the replacement bumper. The original bumper is in the top LH corner for comparison. Same for the image showing the other side - the edges are clearly not the same. I punch pen marked the bumpers parallel the bottom license plate frame exterior.

My son agrees with Moreland. At best this was neglect on "the repairman's" side. At worst they tried to rip me off. I'm just ecstatic they located my front bumper, images proven. They hadn't touched it.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

and I thought I was hitting bumps in the road with my build ... bad dinged up and scratched repop bumper was replaced by Jeff Cooperrestorations in less than a month great guy to deal with .....good luck on the rest of the story

I've had a share. Among others,

Sent my A/C across country to Florida, three times. They did great work work, only to pack the parts wrong damaging the finish, twice. I was just a little angry with them the second time. I have a free extended warranty That was about a year in the making.

Sent my glass moldings out. Yeah the &%% polished everything, including the rears that needed work. They claimed the dents couldn't be tamed. Found a master in Tex. Great work, right up until he packed the lower rear. Imagine if you will a PVC pipe inside a tube for overkill my part, only so the Texan would recap the tube only, with a single piece of used tape. So I had to send it back again. Another year in the making, or close.

Over a year to receive the correct bench seat cover. Now my bench repair/upol./ floor guy is in no hurry, we figure by Dec. Sure, counting the time to receive the cover this has been an 18 month deal, so far.

Picked up what was supposed to be an A+ rechromed or show quality rear bumper. Wholly Toledo, the bumper's exterior was stamped with a part number. Got my money back. Geezus.

Cant forget radiators. Yeah the first failed, I hated it anyway. Second was installed just long enough to run new trans. lines, because it was junk as well. Picked up "the best" from US radiator. Yeah, that failed. Surprising really, they're generally a high quality build IMO, bad luck? So they sent me a new one, which dang, they missed on the filler assembly, the cap's wing edges the radiator bracket. They said so sorry and wow, we'll send a new one performed by the A-team. I didn't push it, four installs are already enough.

Can't forget the 400TH either. Yeah that was rebuilt. Years later it failed with not so much as a mile on it, $1600+ gone. Another $1700 got me a great shop and they even R/R, cleanly. It's nice to have connections. I was lucky, how's that for half full? Yeah, BS, but my bud felt sorry for me

Nearly two years to get hubcaps, though that didn't hold anything up really.

The tailgate had to be repainted, unfortunately the "painter" missed a tailgate handle hole, I take blame as well for not preventing/planning for it. We missed a couple molding holes in the rest of the body too, though on unpainted parts. I can say where to drill now I don't want to talk about my rebuilt steering box that leaks. Perhaps it sat dry too long, couldn't tell you. I can learn to live with it, that's what rags are for.

I don't know, seems COVID mentality is a reason for some mis-steps. But I've been blessed a lot. Mostly the paint/body/body build lead guy, we did it twice (dry run). I couldn't have done this without him.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Well at least I have a rear bumper to install. The license plate bracket is out with the guy who painted the truck, I optioned for argent silver and a clear coat.

By some measure I'd like to see it a pinch higher on the left, but all considered I'm sticking with this after a few attempts. Happy mediums, it's off by <20th, but would still be off <20th in places to raise it. We had to modify brackets for this rare doesn't mean desirable frame, they really came through.

I read some suggesting a washer placed between each bracket and bumper is desirable, to disperse some load. Well I nearly did that and promptly pulled them. No way, if the brackets are flat and flush to the bumper that's exactly the disbursement required. Washers might lead to a distorted bumper and plain isn't right, IMO. The assembly manual doesn't include them anyway. That said, I've seen replacement brackets, their bumper surfaces are anything but flat.

That's the second time this bumper was rechromed. First was by Stockton Plating, still had their sticker. The first time it came as a gift from my mom, early 90s. I proceeded to ruin it then, because the brackets were just plain wrong, I did it backwards too and bent the *(^)^^ out of it torquing it down. .....Ahhhhhh! The truck came with a step bumper.

GM's designs were real good, the bumpers top outer edges are plumb the lower side trim's top outer edge. I didn't check for sure, looks dead on.

[CAMAROBOY68SS]

Sweet truck and I feel your pain on the front bumper issue. Had a similar situation on a hood bar for a 56 Chevy sedan. The car is a custom with alot of nose work, the hood bar was still untouched in terms of mods but was the one fitted to the car prior to paint. Sent stuff off to chrome, everything else came back but the bar, was told it got missed when they did the plating and were working on it. 4 months go by and finally get the bar and its not even close to the one we sent. It was another piece off a wrecked car. The v bend was a different angle and you could not install it. Shop would never answer calls and then going in would not even talk. My guess someone in the shop needed a 56 bar and swiped it and they went and found the first one they could plate to hand back. Took another 6 months and a couple different pieces till we found one that worked again.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by CAMAROBOY68SS

Sweet truck and I feel your pain on the front bumper issue. Had a similar situation on a hood bar for a 56 Chevy sedan. The car is a custom with alot of nose work, the hood bar was still untouched in terms of mods but was the one fitted to the car prior to paint. Sent stuff off to chrome, everything else came back but the bar, was told it got missed when they did the plating and were working on it. 4 months go by and finally get the bar and its not even close to the one we sent. It was another piece off a wrecked car. The v bend was a different angle and you could not install it. Shop would never answer calls and then going in would not even talk. My guess someone in the shop needed a 56 bar and swiped it and they went and found the first one they could plate to hand back. Took another 6 months and a couple different pieces till we found one that worked again.

Big bummer, what a relief it must have been to relocate the right bar. Few things worse than thieves, it's such a poor trait, putting it mildly.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I finished developing a kit so to speak. It's a 69 page assembly guide, packed tightly with descriptions. That was the hard part. The easy part are over 700 images of assemblies, charts, illustrations and points of interest supporting the guide. There's also a parts document, which has a few additional details as well, such as for the 1971 trim levels.

The guide doesn't ramble on like I do, I'll swear to it. I retired writing computer specs., business processes, and such; did that far too long. I basically wrote the guide document along the same logic and flow. Streamlined full details, dumbed down where I can even understand it. I think of it like a engineering document written for the 4th grade level

Anyway, I spent more time on this than building the truck, how sad is that I've floated this past Liz pending response, I'd like to sell copies of all of it to those interested. Board price, and that comes cheap. If you're interested, send me a PM. I should add, with few exceptions this kit does not cover core assemblies, such as for rebuilding a steering box or transmission.

If you'd like to see an example on a subject, please ask. Just don't ask me about rear coil springs, 4x4, rebuilding an engine, and who knows. The guide is specifically for restoring all of my truck (per signature), but much of the info. pertains to 67-72, from the ground up.

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I finished developing a kit so to speak. It's a 69 page assembly guide, packed tightly with descriptions. That was the hard part. The easy part are over 700 images of assemblies, charts, illustrations and points of interest supporting the guide. There's also a parts document, which has a few additional items as well, trims levels, yadda yadda.

The guide doesn't ramble on like I do, I'll swear to it. I retired writing computer specs., business processes, and such; did that far too long. I more or less wrote the guide document along the same logic and such. Streamlined full details, dumbed down where I can even understand it. It's like a engineering document written for the 4th grade level

Anyway, I spent more time on this than building the truck, how sad is that I've floated this past Liz pending response, I'd like to sell copies of all of it to those interested. Board price, and that comes cheap. If you're interested, send me a PM.

If you'd like to see an example on a subject, ask. Just don't ask me about rear coil springs, 4x4, rebuilding cores, and who knows The guide is specifically for my truck, but much of the info. pertains to 67-72, from the ground up.

Tony
sent my USPS MO out this morning look forward to seeing the kit trying to finish up my second c-10 build and get to # 3 before im in my mid 70s. I am sure your kit will help when memory isn't as sharp as we like
thanks for putting this together and offering @ a very reasonable price
Jess

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by zicc1835

Tony
sent my USPS MO out this morning look forward to seeing the kit trying to finish up my second c-10 build and get to # 3 before im in my mid 70s. I am sure your kit will help when memory isn't as sharp as we like
thanks for putting this together and offering @ a very reasonable price
Jess

Thank you, I just loaded a drive up for you, and will mail it out tomorrow. Anxious to hear what you think, should you get to it.

I threw in another document that doesn't belong to me, public knowledge perhaps. I just put it on a Word document, for easy access and search. That makes three documents and 711 images, please let me know if you have any issues with these.

Just discovered something interesting today, it's in the guide For 71-72 front bumper - From what I've seen available on the internet, the dealers sell park lamp assm. rubber bumpers right? No, wrong........They're of poor design, and don’t work anyway. Use part # 4081765.

I read someplace originals weren't available. Well they are, or so close it makes no difference. Perhaps 4081765 has a slightly taller head than original? Can shave to your heart's content, but I don't know why you would.

[zicc1835]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Thank you, I just loaded a drive up for you, and will mail it out tomorrow. Anxious to hear what you think, should you get to it.

I threw in another document that doesn't belong to me, public knowledge perhaps. I just put it on a Word document, for easy access and search. That makes three documents and 711 images, please let me know if you have any issues with these.

Just discovered something interesting today, it's in the guide For 71-72 front bumper - From what I've seen available on the internet, the dealers sell park lamp assm. rubber bumpers right? No, wrong........They're of poor design, and don’t work anyway. Use part # 4081765.

I read someplace originals weren't available. Well they are, or so close it makes no difference. Perhaps 4081765 has a slightly taller head than original? Can shave to your heart's content, but I don't know why you would.

Tony
thumb drive arrived Monday im going to have a look tonight have been busy this first part of week anxious to see what it looks like
Thanks
Jess

[68bowtie]

You’re speaking my language…

I am definitely interested.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I hired a guy to repair my seat, install the new SMS seat covers, and install the ACC flooring and fuel tank cover. The seat covers are the original material. SMS did the sewing, and the fit is perfect.

Should have seen the upholsterer in action. 1K gets a foam cutter, I think the blade is 10" or so. An 85 year old, handy as heck fellow lives across form him, he welded a new spring where a piece had broken.

The driver's side was sunk badly. The upholster fixed that beginning with a 1" cut over say a 16" square section of the original foam's top. He glued a new 1" foam pad in place of the cut. Then he cut, cut, cut some more. Then he glued the original cut on top of that, cut, cut, cut some more to perfect. Anyway, new seat, I can finish the interior now, hallelujah. What a pleasure to finish my truck with the likes of door panels and that. But then again, can't say when my front bumper will be done ("any day now").

I messed up, we were in a hurry to install the seat to finish the job, so I forgot to take an image of the floor and fuel tank cover. That said, those went in so easily for him. He only spent two hours on it, the seat was 3.5. In a nutshell, he cut for the seat's bolts. Sliced for the fuel tank tube(s) and a pinch for one retractable belt, perhaps something for the belt buckles? His slices in the fuel tank cover allowed him to glue its bottom to the floor, folded forward, which is then covered by the floor carpet.

The ACC stuff fits nicely. They forgot the dimmer grommet. I called them, see what happens, but ordered another from elsewhere anyhow. Included an image or two with ACC's floor mats. I don't like them honestly, they look too sporty. Solid black would be an improvement. Oh yeah, this is me, the upholsterer wanted me to try the seat out, and took this.

[mr.mud1]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I hired a guy to repair my seat, install the new SMS seat covers, and install the ACC flooring and fuel tank cover. The seat covers are the original material. SMS did the sewing, and the fit is perfect.

Should have seen the upholsterer in action. 1K gets a foam cutter, I think the blade is 10" or so. An 85 year old, handy as heck fellow lives across form him, he welded a new spring where a piece had broken.

The driver's side was sunk badly. The upholster fixed that beginning with a 1" cut over say a 16" square section of the original foam's top. He glued a new 1" foam pad in place of the cut. Then he cut, cut, cut some more. Then he glued the original cut on top of that, cut, cut, cut some more to perfect. Anyway, new seat, I can finish the interior now, hallelujah. What a pleasure to finish my truck with the likes of door panels and that. But then again, can't say when my front bumper will be done ("any day now").

I messed up, we were in a hurry to install the seat to finish the job, so I forgot to take an image of the floor and fuel tank cover. That said, those went in so easily for him. He only spent two hours on it, the seat was 3.5. In a nutshell, he cut for the seat's bolts. Sliced for the fuel tank tube(s) and a pinch for one retractable belt, perhaps something for the belt buckles? His slices in the fuel tank cover allowed him to glue its bottom to the floor, folded forward, which is then covered by the floor carpet.

The ACC stuff fits nicely. They forgot the dimmer grommet. I called them, see what happens, but ordered another from elsewhere anyhow. Included an image or two with ACC's floor mats. I don't like them honestly, they look too sporty. Solid black would be an improvement. Oh yeah, this is me, the upholsterer wanted me to try the seat out, and took this.

very nice work,as usual.looking fantastic.i have heard of a few fellas' not getting the dimmer switch grommet?i suggested to one guy to call them and they straightened it right out?i used to sell ACC carpets and always had extra grommets around cause sometimes there'd be a handful in the box?personally i do like their mats.i have their dark olive green carpet in my truck with the matching mats.i always liked the mats as it was the same carpet and the prickly backing keeps them in place.looking good,all the best.Greg

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

8.5 years to install the door panels. Only item pending is my front bumper is being re-chromed, at least I think so That and I'm looking for a door panel screw, how'd I lose that? A sport mirror screw works for the meantime, they're so close. But you know how it is, that can haunt a guy for life

I don't like the logo on the floor mats. Doesn't fit, so ordered plain black.

[Getter-Done]

Is that the door panel screw under the floor mat? JK

Great job.

Hope your Bumper shows up in Pristine condition Soon.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Something about my kit's document. My excuse is I hadn't gotten to the license plates yet promised a guy I'd be done with the kit by Nov. Turns out the part number listed for the rear plates is baloney, I'd say GM's error. And what a dealer sells for attaching the lamp to the rear bumper bar bracket is baloney too, they even show the wrong screw.

Anyway, I can send a fresh copy of the guide by request; the last 1-2 orders reflect the changes. It's really not a big deal, otherwise I'd send via email automatically. This amends the parts on topic, blue font.

BTW, no reviews of the KIT yet? I'm going to get a complex

The rear license plate mounts to its bracket with two clear finished slot truss head screws with dog point tips, and nylon nuts. The screw threads are 1/4 x 5/8”.

The kit is available on EBAY through jcapartscom.

The lamp assembly installs onto the license plate bracket’s top with two 1/4” hex flange head tap screws and star lock washers inserted from below. The screw threads are #10 x 3/4”.

As for attaching the lamp assm., I was lucky to find the info., finally. Course there are other ways to mount it. I remembered I had a spare lamp that was on the bracket I'd picked up long ago, and there they were. Looks right to me. I thought the lamp installed with #8, which is an option as well. Also thought they'd be dog-pointed (or b-pointed?) like the len's screws, which a certain dealer advertises, but nope. They send pointed tips that you can buy anywhere. Perhaps some lamp assm. screws are dog or B pointed, similar the lens screws.

I've read that at times the lamps don't work due a bad ground at the bracket, some folk suggest removing some finish from the brackets. Didn't doubt it for a second, everything is powder coated, or primed & painted, and the plate's frame has a clear coat too. Only surfaces I roughed up are for ground strap terminals, and there's only one for the bed.

Until today I'd never seen a plate lamp on my truck. Inspired me to drive her, and play the same square and corny AM station I grew up with. They play the same music, it hasn't changed at all and >>>> most radio stations. What a pleasure, I have serious object-what-the term is, it's a sickness Has 300 miles and an oil change on her.

I needed to reword the following...Not that the prior info. was necessarily wrong, but it was surely unclear in regard to years and GMC. Now reads as...

1967-1971 Chevrolet trucks have a 12 character VIN. The first six characters designate the Chassis, Engine, GVW, Model, Year, and Factory. The last six characters designate the truck’s serial number. For example;

C = 2WD
E = V8
1 = 1/2 ton
4 = Pickup
1 = 1971
Z = Fremont
XXXXXX = Serial number

The SPIDS in Chevrolet trucks differ from GMC trucks, for the years 1967-1971. For one example, 70-71 GMC trucks have a 13 character VIN. One character is a designation of some type, or a dash if blank.

The SPIDS in 1972 Chevrolet and GMC trucks have the same data framework. The first of 13 VIN characters designates GMC (T) or Chevrolet (C).

The 1967-72 Chevrolet truck model ID provides the chassis, the engine, the GVW, the wheel base, and the body style. For example;
C = 2WD
E = V8
1 = 1/2 ton
07 = (SWB, 115")
34 = fleet side

The model ID for GMC trucks is different then that for Chevrolet trucks.

The RPO (regular production option) codes for a truck are displayed on SPIDS and build sheets. Reference images for the codes, or most of them.

Also worth noting, I'd sure hate to see someone sand a 69-71 door panel trim piece, because dummy wrote they're stainlessChromed steel.


Bookmarked. Yeah, my steering box was rebuilt by reputable. But leaks at the pitman. https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=619634

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I'm happy to say my insurance company increased the guaranteed value on my truck to 125K, which is what I asked for. Was 80k, I was real uncomfortable with that, but that's all they'd give, I suppose because the truck wasn''t quite done. Anyway, I gave them a 196 row punch list in Excel, broke down in various categories. And 15 images, that included pics of the spid, build sheet and vin plate. That did the trick, no questions asked.

I added some of my labor, which apparently they take into consideration. I figured 2184 hours at a measly $15 an hour. The punch list totaled 114K, but that doesn't account for parts that didn't have to be replaced or restored, never mind the truck only cost $2800 in the first place. Few images of my punch list, covering OEM and NOS purchases, moderately interesting.

Edit: Just for the heck of it, I spent:

NOS parts: $11,000. Wow, I really didn't expect that. That was when you could still buy stuff, almost reasonably.
OEM parts: $6,500. That includes a bed and front bumper I bought over a decade ago for $1200, I'm not complaining.
Replacement parts, and materials: $15,500.
Rebuilt parts and buying the truck in the first place: $11,250 combined (Truck portion $2800, in 1989).
Services: $37,000

[Louisvillekytruck]

Great details and very nice truck

[IronCanine]

I just received one of Tony's guides and it is fantastic. I haven't even had time to do a deep dive, but what a resource. Even though I'm building a 70 K20, there is a lot of overlap, and to be able to have a resource like this compiled of such an original and unmolested truck is invaluable. Unbelievable amount of effort and detail put into it. If you like em how they came from the factory like I do, this is awesome.

Great work Tony. Thanks for doing it and sharing it with the Board.

Brad

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by IronCanine

I just received one of Tony's guides and it is fantastic. I haven't even had time to do a deep dive, but what a resource. Even though I'm building a 70 K20, there is a lot of overlap, and to be able to have a resource like this compiled of such an original and unmolested truck is invaluable. Unbelievable amount of effort and detail put into it. If you like em how they came from the factory like I do, this is awesome.

Great work Tony. Thanks for doing it and sharing it with the Board.

Brad

I appreciate that a bunch Brad, wow, and glad you're happy with it.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Represents the last of the restoration, the bumper was left well over a year ago. The last part to fall under a covid mentality economy. Yeah sure, "6 weeks". I dropped the front and rear off 260 miles from me. 5-8 months in they tell me the rear is done, but not the front. Then, "front is done, but it's scratched."

Months later, "they're perfect, come and get em." So I did. I had a hunch the front was an imposter, confirmed by images when I arrived home. Plus I found the imposter had 5-6 part number stamps, not GM. Let me know if you ever find an OEM front bumper that's GM stamped. I believe they only had stickers. Anyway, I raised heck, and the boss found my bumper. 1-2 guys claimed that gee, the imposter was in better condition so we refinished that for you. BS. So the wait continued.

January 23rd. "Your bumper is done", call back in an hour and well report our inspection. Well, since I was in an ambulance I didn't make that call, which happens when you break a femur and damage the pelvic socket. I took a real hard fall, the hip took all of it, just as well have struck it with a sledge hammer, not good, full hip replacement.

Anyway, the shop said a guy could meet up 150 miles from me for the bumper swap, and since my girlfriend lives there perfect. So we agree on a date, which was 4.5 weeks after my accident.

Oh great, "storm of the century over the Sierras", exactly where I need to travel. I'll be dang if I miss the opportunity. I ended up traveling on perhaps the worst day of it, couldn't help it, but I found a window of "65-75% snow" for 2 hours instead of 100%, and headed out.

I've driven worse, but 5-6 times I had to immediately stop due to white outs, twice someone was behind me. Happy to say they were careful. Lucky there wasn't too much wind and gusts, 190 MPH recorded a prior day(s). Drive was fine, I was comfortable. After 3.5 hrs., and on the other the other side of the mt., I stopped for a pee and snack. Get out of the car; oooops, unexpected, I can't move without real pain, hmm, don't have a cane, baby steps across the parking lot. Eventually loosened up with a Tylenol and such, though not much improvement until morning. Other than that I've gone this pain killer free since after the first week, I suppose the trip called for something.

With that day being the exception, there's improvement everyday; nearly lost my limp, gym-time, PT. Pain is tolerable or nothing. You tend to think twice about falling again. Still can't tie a shoe, and have learned to like slip-ons. I'll get there, blessing I was in good shape from start. Just thin, no padding for the hip. No more jumpin' rope, did that 40+ years, I'll miss it. No more runs with my girlfriend, funny, I never ran before short of sports, but at 60 my girlfriend talked me into it for occasions, despite smokes I found it pretty easy. Well, that lasted two years....ha ha haaaaaa. What a coincidink, my first SS check too, hmm, hexed, "destiny, destiny, no escaping that for me" I'll learn to like and respect my new hip, and I like the bumper, time will tell. Will install it soon, and stamp the project done.

[68bowtie]

Crazy story! I can’t believe they tried to pull one over you with a reproduction bumper. Glad you caught em.

Almost there!!