post your 67-72 4x4

[silvertip67]

what a project you have...but when done , like you said...its all yours...and it will be something to be real proud of...I cant tell you how many friends and people I have met just because of riding my rig around!

looks like the chassis sets forward just a bit...at least on the front axle...which I think is very positive...more clearance for the front tires...I wish they came like that...the original CST's were never designed to be lifted at all...at least it seems that way,back then it was all utility...hot rods were the chevelles and camaros etc...trucks were all truck!

in some ways I wish mine was going to be painted...I really love the blue from '67...but its hard for me to justify painting what I have. thats pretty funny isnt it?...one thing, the interiors are easy to redo...all the aluminum trim is available pretty reasonable if you want from LMC or similar...

I repainted the entire interior of my '55 along with the exterior too...so when and if I have no projects on the board I will probably paint mine the "sky blue" that was original in '67...I cant afford two truck projects...I am building a boat now...and that is a whole nuther story!

good luck...would love to see the progress on yours...

note how far back the front axle is here on stock CST...and forward the rear is?? also the engine sits back farther than the C-20's did...supposeddly for front differential clearance...of course the 4X4 concept was brand new for Chevrolet back then...looks like your frame was set up with these things in mind??very creative for sure...and who cares about Frankenstein...I sure wouldnt...

the only thing on this truck(in pic) thats not stock is the lack of split rim wheels(no body will touch them where I live)the aluminum box and rail covers...and the spotlight...I put some chrome valve covers on until I can repaint the originals...also the oil bath air cleaner is being redone too...other than those items nothing else has been touched...

so moving the chassis locations was a pretty good idea...eventually Chev did it too...I think by '72 it was totally different...others here would know better...

[glimmertwin01]

i love the green
my 68 is gonna look just like that sans the white top and the addition of the side mouldings

[tx72k15]

This is the best side picture I have. It may show a little more of how the body lines up over the frame. I'll take some good side shots later and post them up.

[silvertip67]

you can definetely see how the axles are aligned more properly in the wheel wells...chassis and drive train were tweaked really well...

[glimmertwin01]

285's might work.... they are like a 33

[NEVERENOUGH]

I run a 255x85x16 on my dually it is a narrow 33 would look really good on a stock type wheel.

[1972RedNeck]

Here's mine.

[silvertip67]

like that elk proof bumper!

[RatRod68]

^^This truck is sex on wheels.


Here are a couple of my 71

[L8brake731]

Noticed you have after market head lights. How do you like them? Thinking of those and mods to HID....
Thanks

Originally Posted by RatRod68

^^This truck is sex on wheels.


Here are a couple of my 71

[RatRod68]

sorry. Double Post

[silvertip67]

nice truck...my wife wants me to get a pair of those stirrups so she can get in easier...what kind of shock is that going across the front end??

[RatRod68]

no clue. i bought it pretty much like this. i just added the grille and lights

[silvertip67]

I have two rubber mounts that are shot( the rear ones under the seat) I made up some solid rubber "hockey pucks" to put in the place of the sag...and ideas out there on removing the nut/bolt that holds them in place...

have dosed the spots up good w/ liquid wrench...anyone out there fixed this before...any have a heads up on any possible problems...thanks...t



ones side droops about 1 " the other maybe 3/4"...probably not a big deal...but it does drive me crazy...

[wiggins]

Yaeh back when I was in college (ie broke) I made some by cutiing up litttle squares out of an old tire and they worked good to level everything backout. I am from texas so I have never touched a Hockey puck but it sounds like a goood fix as long as its not to hard (stiff). As far as the botls you will have to have a back up inside the cab and you may have to remove your seat. May try an impact wrench 1st just to see if it would bust then off before taking you seat out but I doubt it will. Probably a good time to go ahead and replace the bolts and nuts as well. I always use grade 8 bolts for this.

[silvertip67]

thanks for the info...I was trying to avoid taking out the seat...will do as you suggested...am I to understand that the threads are not a stud? but goes through the lower cab? w/ a nut underneath...so a box wrench or similar has to be attached under the seat ( to hold bolt)to get it loose if an impact alone does not work on the lower nut?

I have looked at drawings in the LMC catalog and its not that clear how it is attached...

thanks again...t

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by silvertip67

thanks for the info...I was trying to avoid taking out the seat...will do as you suggested...am I to understand that the threads are not a stud? but goes through the lower cab? w/ a nut underneath...so a box wrench or similar has to be attached under the seat ( to hold bolt)to get it loose if an impact alone does not work on the lower nut?

I have looked at drawings in the LMC catalog and its not that clear how it is attached...

thanks again...t

The rear cab mount fasteners are just a 6" long bolt that comes in from the bottom on a 1/2-ton. A little longer on a 3/4-ton but still comes in from the bottom the same way. The nut is captive and up in the body and does not need to be accessed at all to get the rear cab mounts out.

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

The rear cab mount fasteners are just a 6" long bolt that comes in from the bottom on a 1/2-ton. A little longer on a 3/4-ton but still comes in from the bottom the same way. The nut is captive and up in the body and does not need to be accessed at all to get the rear cab mounts out.

Unless you live around here and have to cut the nut off to get the bolt out to get the cab off. Thank you rust.

[1985-GMC]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Unless you live around here and have to cut the nut off to get the bolt out to get the cab off. Thank you rust.

Even on my gmc (central texas truck) the bolt was froze in the nut witch spun around in the retainer. It was just a bad design.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Unless you live around here and have to cut the nut off to get the bolt out to get the cab off. Thank you rust.

Hadn't thought about that. None of the trucks I have had were rusty in that area. Guess I have been lucky.

It is definitely a poor design. I guess you could convert it to a thru bolt design like the front cab mount if it twists in place or breaks off.

[RatRod68]

That are amazing. I have them in both my C10s

[Dieselwrencher]

Well at least they aren't like the 73-87's. You have to cut the floor of the cab to access the nut whet it spins in the retainer.

[1985-GMC]

I just cut a little hole in the rear cab support right behind the nut with a cutoff tool then welded it solid.

[plummen]

Lets see if i can get this to work.
Bottem picture is from when i first got started,but you get the idea.im still sorting out the cab mounts so i can get it sitting square then i can get to work on new floors ,cab corners and rockers.........
Then i can pull the cab back off and have it stripped at the blaster.
the frame is raised under rear of cab on newer frame to clear gas tanks im thinking which complicates things a little,Icould have just put the springs under the 69 frame i guess but i was too lazy to cut off all of those real steel rivets between the 2 frames!
Once i get the body back off ill get started on my dana 60 front end and 14 bolt floater rearend swap,Im thinking it will look pretty cool with a set of eagle alloy bud wheels all the way around and a flatbed with body repainted origional colors.
any suggestions or complaints? yeah i know the yellow driveshaft came with the chassis,it will be gone soon! hahaha

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by plummen

Lets see if i can get this to work.
Bottem picture is from when i first got started,but you get the idea.im still sorting out the cab mounts so i can get it sitting square then i can get to work on new floors ,cab corners and rockers.........
Then i can pull the cab back off and have it stripped at the blaster.
the frame is raised under rear of cab on newer frame to clear gas tanks im thinking which complicates things a little,Icould have just put the springs under the 69 frame i guess but i was too lazy to cut off all of those real steel rivets between the 2 frames!
Once i get the body back off ill get started on my dana 60 front end and 14 bolt floater rearend swap,Im thinking it will look pretty cool with a set of eagle alloy bud wheels all the way around and a flatbed with body repainted origional colors.
any suggestions or complaints? yeah i know the yellow driveshaft came with the chassis,it will be gone soon! hahaha

Going with a flat bed you don't need to mess with the wheel base being 4" different but you can pull 16" from the frame behind the cab and relocate it under the cab to push the frame transition far enough back to clear the rear cab brace & sheet metal seam of the body without having to put a substantial body lift on it.

The cab mount issue is best fixed by grinding off the 20 rivets holding on a set of 67-72 mount brackets and fitting them to the 73-87 truck frame. With a new set of cab mounts you can bolt them to the 67-72 brackets, bolt the brackets & mounts to the cab and use the brackets to square the cab to the frame. The square body cab mount brackets don't line up well enough to use them.

The core support & front bumper are the fun part as they are in a different location and need some creativity. I am cutting the frame horns off some scrap 67-72 frame rails and will graft them into the square body frame as needed.