Project Orange Crush (57 3100)

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by II_Slow

What key switch are you using?
Do you have a picture of the backside (lugs)?

More than likely, one of the two IGN positions will be hot in start position, and the other off in start position. The distributor/ignition needs power on during the starter engagement - all other stuff needs to be off for full current to the starter).

No picture as of now and I can't find one identical to mine it has a lug on the ACC group for the distributor or atleast thats what I think it was can't recall what it was called I will snag a picture over my lunch hour I have it wired in so I have a fuse inline to the switch then power from the switch to the fuse block then ACC Power to my fuse block things get confusing because I have the neutral safety switch for my trans in there and I dont know what line needs to go where on the back of the switch I will draw a diagram up to hopefully start to make sense when I post up the switch back

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Alright here we go guys

Here is the back face

The key in what I am calling the off position

and what I am calling the accessory position it has no further clicks available left or right (did I put the cylinder in the housing wrong?)

And my "wiring diagram" not sure if I should use IGN2 instead of start or if it even matters


My other thought is if the key only has the two clicks then how does it start do I need a button? If so would it be inline from the start lug before the Trans NSS

[Valarius_Starchaser]

My colleague just walked over and said I did it all wrong wonderful....

Pulling my hair out now

[II_Slow]

I think the only way to know for sure how the switch works is to ohm it out. If you treat the BAT as common, you should be able to see what is on at each terminal at each position with a ohm meter, or apply 12 volts and measure the voltage out at the lugs. I'll bet the ACC is on in the "ON" but drops out when turned to the "START" position, IGN2 is on is both "ON" and "START" position, and obviously the START lug is only on in the "START" position. I just read something that said the 57 was different than the 55-56 and was not hot when cranking so you'll have to address that with a small wiring modification, or get a key switch that does have a lug that is energized when cranking to your points or HEI ignition.

If you are really wiring the neutral safety switch directly in line with the solenoid, make sure it is rated for the current that the starter solenoid will pull or use a relay.

Here's my e-mail if you want to use e-mail instead of this thread
m-mitchell6@ti.com

[Valarius_Starchaser]

I'll be honest I can build a motor a trans and paint a car all day long but you throw this electrical my way and I'm done I think I would be better off hiring this done but we all know I can't afford that better get full coverage on my truck before I plug the battery in and something lights up I suppose

As far as the NSS inline I have no idea what its rated to or how to find it or how to test the switch to see if it even works and as far as relays go I am to ill informed to even understand how they work... I followed the pin-outs just fine for my trans but now this mess is just to much to handle I'm near my breaking point here fellas 3 days and the city shows up to inspect and my truck is still no closer to starting we may need to say goodbye to the old girl soon if that's the case

[II_Slow]

Just come paint mine and I'll wire yours!

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by II_Slow

Just come paint mine and I'll wire yours!

I wish it was that easy

Other problem that manifested itself when I went to plug the oil pressure gauge in is that I have never seen this style fitting can it be used/adapted to work with a standard style crush sender and rubber line from my block?

[lower50's]

Well don't give up!! It will all work out in the end. You could just buy a pre-made wire kit for your truck then just run wires?

[Valarius_Starchaser]

My uncle did one of them and for the price said he wouldn't ever do one again he still had to cut solder crimp exe which is where I am now the only benefit I see from them is you get all the wire in the kit and I have 100's of feet worth of wire between new and 3-4 harnesses I have gotten in the past

I'm not saying I want to give up I'm saying I definitely can't get it running in 3 days and likely won't have it done for the wedding at the rate I have been going wiring and rewiring 3 times in the last 2 weeks and still not having it right

So we may need to just slap the other side door on and shove it out in my grandfathers groove to avoid a ticket from uncle Sam

Not having fun anymore guys not one bit

[ptc]

Sorry Val been away at MAN CAMP for a few days.... had to get away!

Anyway looks like you have gotten yourself into a bunch of...... stuff!


First - the Kendall ZDDP should be fine for any break in run. then change it and run another first 500 miles with it and change it again. Thats why using $3.99 qt oil is better than $15.00 qt oil for this!!!!

Second - That IGN SW is from a '57 with a 6 cyl that had the foot starter switch, I dont know if that helps you figure things out or not.... you may have to use a start switch in your dash. You should be able to hook it up to a 9 volt battery and use a VOM to check all the leads for voltage when you switch it from all positions. SEE whats HOT and whats NOT.

Third - That oil sender line is for a mechanical type gauge. it should be a 1/8" pipe fitting and the plastic line they use now doesnt go thru the fitting it connects on top of it. Just get a new one like this

[lower50's]

Oh I see. Crappy deal, good luck.

[Nut Case]

Val

I've been in similar spots like yours if you pain is like mine was, I know you're hurtin.
You can only do what you can do. Talk to dimples and figure how to not let this get in the middle of the big day.

Keep on keepin on.

Best wishes.

Nut Case

[Rude Dude]

The ignition switch from a G30 Van AC Delco D1406A or Wells LS411 fit nicely in the original hole also the factory chrome trim ring thread is the same

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by Rude Dude

The ignition switch from a G30 Van AC Delco D1406A or Wells LS411 fit nicely in the original hole also the factory chrome trim ring thread is the same

Will this work with my original cylinder as well it looks like it will but I don't want to assume anything I will see what local availability is like tomorrow

Tonight I got my intermediate shaft sorted the 96 jeep shaft is in fact 17mm DD shaft not 2in DD shaft so a little carbide bit work on a drill and we were in business I used an old part of the stock rage joint intermediate to make this adapter no money lost I will need to swap over my gear due to the gear spline changing somewhere around the late 80s I have a late GMT 400 gear laying around (not ideal) but its on the shelf and costs nothing for now it will do

I have been assuming my headers would fit up to this point and lucky me they sure did! I have some flange ends laying around to get my H pipe and old glass packs hooked up to (also not my ideal choice) but I can't find cheap good used mufflers so headache exhaust it is!

Got my rear rims in from summit today along with ball joint boots and a timing tab FINALLY they all said

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Here's a few of the intermediate shaft as well

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by ptc

Sorry Val been away at MAN CAMP for a few days.... had to get away!

Anyway looks like you have gotten yourself into a bunch of...... stuff!


First - the Kendall ZDDP should be fine for any break in run. then change it and run another first 500 miles with it and change it again. Thats why using $3.99 qt oil is better than $15.00 qt oil for this!!!!

Second - That IGN SW is from a '57 with a 6 cyl that had the foot starter switch, I dont know if that helps you figure things out or not.... you may have to use a start switch in your dash. You should be able to hook it up to a 9 volt battery and use a VOM to check all the leads for voltage when you switch it from all positions. SEE whats HOT and whats NOT.

Third - That oil sender line is for a mechanical type gauge. it should be a 1/8" pipe fitting and the plastic line they use now doesnt go thru the fitting it connects on top of it. Just get a new one like this

Thanks for the tip on the Kendall oil I will dump the comp cams break in lube as well for break in just for the ZDDP content boost then chang it out for a fresh batch of Kendall and a dab of additive likely then having that batch tested for ZDDP to make sure I'm where I need to be

I have one of those kits and found the fitting that came off the gauge back new at my local parts house for under a dollar it appears to crush onto the line like the newer style just without the separate crush fitting a little odd but I never have set up a new sender line so it may be normal

I pulled my motor one last time and installed a one piece oil pan gasket I wasn't confident in the cork one after the front cover job

Lastly I need to correct a few wiring issues in my ignition system along with finding the switch that Rude Dude posted and wire it up

That along with exhaust a makeshift cooling system/ trans cooler lines and some fluids I may just be able to cobble my way out of a "abandoned automobile" ticket isn't that something I abandoned my vehicle in my driveway weird isn't it

[Rude Dude]

The key tumbler is different square style GM key. The plug in connector comes wired and tumbler has two keys is nice when wiring and available on ebay or local parts house. Looks very close to 67-72 truck ignition switch. This switch is used by many when converting to LS style motors because additional leads on back of switch for GRND isolated connections for ECM

[Kim57]

Looking good.
Kim

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Thanks for the tip on the cylinder rude dude defanitly a good buy a little sad I couldn't use the original though

says the guy putting a 74 bbc 99 4L80e 98 ford 8.8 and a 76 nova subframe on his 57 chop top frankentruck

[lower50's]

Abandoned vehicle on your property should only apply if you have more than one and are clearly not working on them. Good luck.
Exhaust and steering look like they should work just fine.

[Advanced Design]

Making good progress Val. You mean they gave you a ticket for working on your vehicle?

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Yes Advanced Design when we spoke with the city representative he said if a vehicle isn't repaired in 14 days time and is operational (their definition is the motor runs) then we will be fined and the vehicle could be towed at a later date

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Got my ignition switch all wired up last night along with headers and gaskets done next step is getting my timing tab on (pull the balancer) and get the alternator sorted out next major hoop is the cooling system

Small bummer was that my starter tested bad so I ordered a new gear reduction off of Febay from SkipWhite not the time I wanted to do that

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by Valarius_Starchaser

Yes Advanced Design when we spoke with the city representative he said if a vehicle isn't repaired in 14 days time and is operational (their definition is the motor runs) then we will be fined and the vehicle could be towed at a later date

Thanks Val, wow....though I can understand their intent, it does mess up a car guy. You can beat their deadline...!

[Valarius_Starchaser]

Originally Posted by Advanced Design

Thanks Val, wow....though I can understand their intent, it does mess up a car guy. You can beat their deadline...!

Yah really annoyed it was a neighbor that called it in not sure which but the representative said that they called every day for a week straight they blatantly lied saying I am running an auto repair business and dump oil on my property as well as work well past 10pm almost ever night when I'm never out past 8pm

Some people need to get a life