Attempting my first build 72 K5

[DeadheadNM]

Nice work on the AC box! Thanks for the tip on Classic Auto Air. I'll speak w them about refurbishing my compressor and redoing the hoses. Did you get a replacement evaporator and condenser?

[Tom Vogel]

BEUTiful! Isn't it amazing how much room those under dash AC hoses take up? I was always in awe when I thought of how the assembly line workers did that all day every day. Lol

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by UGAK5

WOW!

Everything is looking so awesome! Great work!

Where did you get that rear rubber floormat for the bed?

Thank you, Chris. The 2 piece rubber floor mats came from the factory. I don't know if there are any repos being made.

Chris

Originally Posted by IronCanine

What an update! Fantastic work Mike. Everything looks great. I was especially impressed with the A/C bits. You are so close. Fingers crossed for you that you get to turn her over this week. Can't wait to see her roll out. FINISHING KICK!!!

Thank you, Brad. I hope you didn't mind me going with the same look on the steering wheel

Originally Posted by Greenlee

Nice work!

Thanks, Greenlee

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Nice work on the AC box! Thanks for the tip on Classic Auto Air. I'll speak w them about refurbishing my compressor and redoing the hoses. Did you get a replacement evaporator and condenser?

I had my evaporator pressure tested and it checked out okay. I got a new condenser from GMC Pauls which I think comes from Old Air Products IIRC.

Classic Auto Air did a great job and their customer service is awesome to work with. Highly recommend them.

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

BEUTiful! Isn't it amazing how much room those under dash AC hoses take up? I was always in awe when I thought of how the assembly line workers did that all day every day. Lol

I know right! When I just had the wiring in there, I was like... "Wow look at all that empty space".

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Correction on the rear carpet strip hold down. The tail gate strip seats underneath and the chrome strip sits on top of the carpet.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

The parking brake cable housing is moving when I set the parking brake cable.

The pic on the left is when park brake is off and the pic on the right is when it is on. When I release the PB it barely comes back and I think this is bc the cable housing moves.

The clamps holding it to the frame and inner fender are tight and I even used a 1/4 clamp to squeeze down on it even more.

I don't know what I'm doing wrong. Unless the clamp that is on the parking brake itself needs to be clamped tightly? You can see a little bit of free play in there. I did have to pry it open to get this over the cable


I'd appreciate any help on this subject.

Thanks

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

The parking brake cable housing is moving when I set the parking brake cable.

I just installed mine this weekend as well. There may be other opinions, but here is what I did:

* I took the retainer clamp and pried it open wide enough to fit over the solid metal piece of the cable. I did this with one side in a vise and used a pry bar to open it open.

* Once I put it back in the Blazer and got it over that solid metal piece of the cable, I used channelock pliers to close it back down enough to get the retainer bolt started.

* Then, tightened it all up - no more slippage.

Keep in mind the cable slides inside that sheath, so you can position it around a little bit to get it where you want it.

Now, If I did it wrong, someone can correct me and help us both!

BTW - does anyone have a source for the return spring on the ebrake assembly? My PO must've thought those were optional - I don't have one.

[Tom Vogel]

Who redid your seat belts?

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by Tom Vogel

Who redid your seat belts?

Python Restoration out of Texas

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Starter theories can be kicked to the curb now.. She cranks over and disengages from the flywheel.. It was def the battery. Now, I can get back to figuring out if it's my fuel pump or if something is going on in gas tank

[Ol Blue K20]

It's gonna take a while to fill the fuel line. It will fill faster if you fill the carb bowl and it ran even short intervals (I would not use starting fluid ). I have also been replacing all my old school 3510 high torque starters with the newer gear reduction type.

[UGAK5]

Originally Posted by 72K5CSTDarkOlive

Starter theories can be kicked to the curb now.. She cranks over and disengages from the flywheel.. It was def the battery. Now, I can get back to figuring out if it's my fuel pump or if something is going on in gas tank

I'm a fan of SeventyOnes idea - put the fuel line from a gas can to the mechanical pump with a short hose. Eliminate tank issues at least and isolate it to see if you have engine issues first.

[DeadheadNM]

Prime the pump so to speak with starter fluid and fire it up?

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Prime the pump so to speak with starter fluid and fire it up?

I prefer to use carb cleaner (berrymans) over starting fluid because it doesn't raise the compression ratio. You don't want to pop a head gasket starting it.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Prime the pump so to speak with starter fluid and fire it up?

I prefer to use carb cleaner (berrymans) over starting fluid because it doesn't raise the compression ratio. You don't want to pop a head gasket starting it.

[SeventyOne]

Everyone's rooting for you, Mike!

[DeadheadNM]

Originally Posted by Ol Blue K20

I prefer to use carb cleaner (berrymans) over starting fluid because it doesn't raise the compression ratio. You don't want to pop a head gasket starting it.

Dang - I spray mine with starter fluid if sitting for a while to avoid a prolonged cranking.

Mike it's going to work itself out and you'll be the envy of the west coast in short order I'm sure with that driving work of art. I spent the past week in Santa Barbara and thought of you and your build.

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Dang - I spray mine with starter fluid if sitting for a while to avoid a prolonged cranking.

Mike it's going to work itself out and you'll be the envy of the west coast in short order I'm sure with that driving work of art. I spent the past week in Santa Barbara and thought of you and your build.

that would scare me....

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Thanks all for the support. I appreciate it the suggestions and everything.

So here's the latest.. Good news - I know what the problem is.. Bad News - In order for me to run mechanical pump I would have to change camshafts..

I removed the fuel pump and pressed the pushrod up against the cam and held it with pressure using my thumb while a buddy cranked the motor over for about 20 seconds.. There was NO pressure.. I called Motor Works, gave them my build number and told them what was happening. The cam that was built for my motor does not have fuel pump eccentric lobe so it will only work with an electric fuel pump..

Problem is.. I ordered this thing 3 years ago and even worst, I went through a middle man (west coast engines). When the order was placed it was originally for e-pump. I called Brady (west Coast Engines) and told him I wanted to run a M-Pump and he said no problem.. He must have not communicated that back to motor works.. I don't have this in writing (email) bc I called him on the phone to let him know I wanted to run a m-pump..

I have two options. 1. Use an electric pump 2. Put in a new CAM.

First one sounds like the easiest and quickest solution. However, bc I have pre-bent SS lines, I will have to remove this and create a custom line myself and place the e-pump somewhere down along the frame rail..

The second option only sounds enticing bc I would opt for a bigger lift and duration.. Might as well right since you're going to swap cams..

Decisions decisions decisions...

I could run an e-pump for now just so I can get this on the road much sooner. and if I really don't like it I could change out the cam some time down the road.. seems like a lot of work though

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by DeadheadNM

Dang - I spray mine with starter fluid if sitting for a while to avoid a prolonged cranking.

Mike it's going to work itself out and you'll be the envy of the west coast in short order I'm sure with that driving work of art. I spent the past week in Santa Barbara and thought of you and your build.

Love Santa Barbara. That's one place I'd have in mind for retirement, but that could change in the next 30 years lol

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

After looking into e-pumps, they all say to mount below and close to tank as possible.. Umm okay, I guess I'll just slap this pump onto the axle since this seems to be the only spot that's below tank

I thought I could just have it sit inside the frame rail, but that only gets me halfway to the bottom of the tank.. other options, I could drop 400-500 on a self priming e-pump, but I'm not really feeling that idea.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Looked into a few discussions on the good ol interweb... seems the consensus leans towards not needed a return fuel line, I think from what i read, if you have a regulator it's keep the fuel cooler which is what the return line in theory is supposed to do.

Regarding my previous note about it being mounted below fuel tank.. I called Summits tech line and the guy helped me find a pump that is self priming (pull/push) so it's ok to mount above tank. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sww-82091

None of the pumps listed online have no description if its self priming or not.. I think they refer to it as a "lift"

[SeventyOne]

I wonder if you can get creative with the mounting and not have to modify the SS fuel lines you already have in place.

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

I wonder if you can get creative with the mounting and not have to modify the SS fuel lines you already have in place.

I think I found a place I can mount it and it would be sort of hidden and out of the way and will only use about 6" or so or rubber hoses and I can still use the main fuel line without any mods.

In-between the main fuel line inside the rail of the frame and fuel tank, there is a spot I could mount it.. This would put it as close to the gas tank as possible.

I'm already preparing for Murphy's law, the fuel pump has to be mounted perfectly vertical and I would bet this pump is going to be too tall to place inside the channel of the frame.

Today, I'm going to pull the gas tank and start piecing together how I'll route everything. I'll probably end up having to fab up a u-shaped bracket that extends out just pass the frame rail so the fuel pump is able to be mounted vertically without any obstruction.

If I didn't want to go through all that work, I could mount it on the outside of the frame, but that's just going to look off and probably could get damaged.

[SeventyOne]

thats basically the spot i had in mind - good luck with it!

[72K5CSTDarkOlive]

Here's the solution I came up with for the e-pump. Picked up a bracket from OSH with a a 90 degree bend and cut it down to 4" in width.

I really didn't have a whole lot of options for the pumps mounting location. I found this area right in front of the bracket coming of the frame for the brake hose.



Drilled 5/16 hole here.I'm only using one bolt (5/16) to hold the bracket in place. It feels like it will hold up fine.



Had some left over braided hoses, so for the fuel coming into the pump from the tank I made up this line. I like the idea of using this style. If I ever need to remove the tank of pump, I can easily access the tube nut with a wrench from either end.