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Old 05-18-2009, 02:26 PM   #376
MacAttack
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

What's the next size smaller than a 1/8 in N.P.T?

Saturday we tried to clear the oil line to the gauge - by disconnecting it at the cluster, after disconnecting the speedo-cable. After taking the screws out gave up on trying to get the cluster out, as the plastic was very old and brittle, and came to find out (via a mirror and an LED) the very small line was soldered to the back of the gauge anyway.

Don't know if this is normal, but I was trying to get it off to blow through with high pressure air to clear some junk that was obviously clogging the line where it connects to the engine.

Ended up taking the tube cutter and hacking about 4" off the other end, with the weird little fitting - and sure enough - when we hit the short piece with air a hard little booger came flying out.

Now I've got to find a crimp type sleeve fitting that can grab that tube (about .100 outside diameter - with a tiny little hole) that has a 1/8 in N.P.T. end to go into the block, next to the distributor.

Ideas?
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Old 05-18-2009, 02:34 PM   #377
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

Those are compression fittings, Mac. Go to the hardware store...Im thinking 1/8''. You should have a combination union that goes into the block that is NPT on one end and Compression on the other. Also, performance stores have mechanical guage kits (Autometer) for re-doing gauges that mite have the correct parts....wont be cheap. But we know money is no object at this point, right?
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Old 05-18-2009, 03:12 PM   #378
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

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But we know money is no object at this point, right?
True Dat.

And I may just buy a cheapo set (water temp and oil pressure) of gauges to use strictly for the motor break-in, if I can't get past this very minor oil line plumbing annoyance.

Got the shifter set in and everything hooked up on Saturday too.

Got the itch to make fire this coming holiday!
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Old 05-18-2009, 05:23 PM   #379
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

I hope I was clear on that last reply. I went out and got a bunch of this stuff awhile back. I am going to add a mechanical oil pressure gauge in my 'burb and still run the factory dash guage. I bought copper tubing, compression fittings with ferrules (the little ring) and even found the combo NPT to compression adaptors. You mite find the stuff at Home Depot in the plumbing dept.

I picked up the copper line because the gauge kits nowadays come with some type of plastic line. I'd rather have the copper as Ive seen it pretty beat up and not leaking. Worth the hassle of trying to thread it thru the firewall IMO. .....hope you get it straight.
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Old 05-18-2009, 06:01 PM   #380
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

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I hope I was clear on that last reply......hope you get it straight.
Man, you hit the center of the target.

Home Depot and Lowe's does carry exactly what your speaking of - usually in conjunction with one of those tiny lines running off water heaters and such for their thermostat mechanisms.

Fortunately, when I was talking with one of the guys in the shop at second break - he thought he had one in a small tin in his tool box:

The fitting is hex stock, about 3/4" long - 1/8" NPT on one end and straight thread (compression) on the other - with about a .080 diameter hole down the center, and we were able to grub up ONE crimping sleeve.

I deburred the one end of the sample (4" long) piece and it just slides over the outside of the tube - as does the compression nut. With a short little riser pipe to come from the block hole, a coupler and this trick little fitting - I think my last start up excuse just evaporated.

Thank you.

Mac.
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Old 05-19-2009, 11:58 AM   #381
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

Myth Busters Question: As I’m about ready to fire off the ol’ Small Block here shortly (this weekend, maybe) - I’m taking all kinds of last minute input and heard a theory this morning that was new to me.

After break-in, immediately stuff clean shop rags into the bottom of the ram horns (I’ll be running initially without exhaust pipes/mufflers) after first shut off.

As the story goes - this keeps cold air from rushing back in and warping the valves (?)

Survey Says?

Mac.
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Old 05-19-2009, 12:18 PM   #382
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

Why no exhaust?
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Old 05-19-2009, 12:23 PM   #383
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

Put the pipes on...

Running it without pipes will damage the valves, but that's more common in colder weather.
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Old 05-19-2009, 12:34 PM   #384
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

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Why no exhaust?
The guy that stole my truck (when it had the straight six) put a cobbled together POS dual glass-pack routine behind the junk 283 he stuffed back in my truck. I obliterated his "system" with my Radiac wheel into 2-foot chunks and gave it all to the scrap man.

The FlowMasters I have from my Chevelle, after running them for about two weeks are what I'm going to put on my C-10.

Because my tail-shaft sticks too far out (about 1-1/2") from the TH350, I'm going to have to have the drive-shaft lengthened and re-ballanced anyway, so the tow truck will haul it first to the muffler shop - install my mufflers - dumping them out just in front of the rear wheels (just because I've always wanted them like that) and then I'll have the C10 hauled to the transmission / rear end shop, for new gears in the back, new shorter springs in the front, reworked drive-shaft and brake overhaul.

I don't do brakes (yet) and I don't do exhaust systems (ever).
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Old 05-19-2009, 12:46 PM   #385
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

I'd wait for pipes. You could burn a valve. Unless you just want to see fire come out the headers. I'd have a bud there to adj timing and watch for leaks and to top off coolant. The smoother breakin goes the better off you are.
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Old 05-19-2009, 01:14 PM   #386
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

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I'd wait for pipes. You could burn a valve. Unless you just want to see fire come out the headers. I'd have a bud there to adj timing and watch for leaks and to top off coolant. The smoother breakin goes the better off you are.

No sence in taken risk now after all your hard work Mac.
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Old 05-19-2009, 01:54 PM   #387
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

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Old 05-19-2009, 03:05 PM   #388
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

That dude must of had your truck for a while to start doing that kinda crap to it. What you could do is go to the exhaust shop and have two 3 foot of pipe made up and just clamp your mufflers to it till you can get it to the shop. You can measure out where the bends need to be then just tell them there for ole rams horns, they'll know. Then when you can get it there they can weld you mufflers to some fresh pipe and make it all nice and pretty.
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Old 05-19-2009, 03:28 PM   #389
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

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That dude must of had your truck for a while to start doing that kinda crap to it.
Yeah - February 9th, 2008 to the end of May, same year. My rig was the last in a line of 60-66 C-10's he and his crew were stealing, by which time the OC Sheriff was getting it all on tape.



Just got back from 'Plaza Muffler' at lunch - owners says just have the truck towed down on any Friday (but this one) and it'll be done for the tow back by Saturday noon - using my mufflers and tips.

I'm such a.......



Drama Queen!
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:33 PM   #390
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

Its a Chevy smallblock.....fire it up!!
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Old 05-19-2009, 07:48 PM   #391
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

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Its a Chevy smallblock.....fire it up!!
Fire in the hole......................
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Old 05-20-2009, 09:12 AM   #392
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

Quote:
Originally Posted by MacAttack View Post
Myth Busters Question: As I’m about ready to fire off the ol’ Small Block here shortly (this weekend, maybe) - I’m taking all kinds of last minute input and heard a theory this morning that was new to me.

After break-in, immediately stuff clean shop rags into the bottom of the ram horns (I’ll be running initially without exhaust pipes/mufflers) after first shut off.

As the story goes - this keeps cold air from rushing back in and warping the valves (?)

Survey Says?

Mac.
Hey Mac,

Yes , I have heard this , but its real "Ol School" now that engines have better quality parts this problem has gone away years ago,
I have Race engines (327's) that run wide open exhaust with ony 30" header tubes and get shut off after a 1/4 mile run at 7500 RPM , cold air rushes in on those valves , No problem even racing in 50 degree cool night air , My Motorcycle is the same way , short drag pipes with nothing to block the cold air rushing in. I drive it all winter. Hope this 2 cents worth of info sets your mind at rest . Now GO FOR IT! LOL

Desert
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Old 05-26-2009, 12:53 PM   #393
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

Did you get it started?
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Old 05-29-2009, 04:36 PM   #394
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

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Did you get it started?
No noise yet. Being towed on a flat bed to the muffler shop in the morning.
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Old 05-29-2009, 06:10 PM   #395
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

Quote:
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Its a Chevy smallblock.....fire it up!!
You can run without pipes, water or oil for at least 20,000 miles without doing any damage. Just to reiterate, "it's a chevy small block, fire it up"!
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Old 05-29-2009, 07:55 PM   #396
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

holy crap...talk about dragging something out......
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Old 05-30-2009, 09:53 PM   #397
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

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holy crap...talk about dragging something out......


What part of 'Drama Queen' don't you understand?



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Old 05-30-2009, 10:09 PM   #398
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins



is it running yet?!?!?!?!
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Old 05-31-2009, 12:04 PM   #399
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

If it's not fired off by the end of the day I'm not sure I believe this project even exists. Think about it. We haven't seen pictures since I don't know when--get on him Joe. I almost need a video of it running to verify that it's real.
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Old 05-31-2009, 12:22 PM   #400
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Re: The 283 Rebuild Begins

x2
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