57 Panel "FAKMLC" build

[dsraven]

Some mufflers have a dual and a single out. Maybe better flow than a Y. Y may be cheaper and easier depending on space limitations. Seen lots on big city delivery trucks with 2 in one out. Big block trucks so flow must not be too terrible.

[FAKKY]

Gauge cluster installed


Bracket for the fuse block off the side of the hydroboost/brake.



Wiring routed through firewall. Waiting on some 1/2" split loom.





Got to work out the column wiring.
Looks like in the book there is only provisioning for turn signals - lights No.
Soo assume that means lights to dash mounted controls.

A;so which of these connectors ..... I *think* the one connected .... but they both came in the EZ 21 circuit wiring kit with no instructions.

[joedoh]

the difference for the column is that some cars/trucks have separate bulbs for turn signals and brake lights, and some have the same bulb for brake and turn. you use the wiring that matches what your taillights are doing.

for example my old mazda B2200 had a turn signal at the top of the taillight and a brake light in the middle. one day I had a need to hook up a trailer wiring harness that had the same bulb for brake and turn and when hooked to my mazda when I turned on the turn signal both sides flashed, I had to get an adapter


that gauge cluster is gorgeous by the way.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

the difference for the column is that some cars/trucks have separate bulbs for turn signals and brake lights, and some have the same bulb for brake and turn. you use the wiring that matches what your taillights are doing.

for example my old mazda B2200 had a turn signal at the top of the taillight and a brake light in the middle. one day I had a need to hook up a trailer wiring harness that had the same bulb for brake and turn and when hooked to my mazda when I turned on the turn signal both sides flashed, I had to get an adapter


that gauge cluster is gorgeous by the way.

Oh didnt realize that - but that makes sense.
Waiting on the loom to arrive before I run wires down to the rear but Im going to have a lot of extra wires left over.

Fan, oil, fuel and all that is already done via the LS harness.
No power windows, doors. AC has its own standalone harness. Alternator exciter wire.

Thanks on the cluster - I went cheap on the AC unit and put the money there.... one day I may relocate the AC back behind the dash ....

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

and some have the same bulb for brake and turn. you use the wiring that matches what your taillights are doing.

So that looks like what I have given there is only a single bulb.
Pics.

Looks like drivers side had a 12v and 2 grounds
whereas pasenger skide just 2 grounds.
But I cant be sure as all cut.

So assuming these need to get signal from both the brake lights and turn signals ...... (flashers) ....... but not 100% sure how they should be wired.

[joedoh]

looks like 2 hots and a ground, which might be what you meant, just got mixed up.

either way, looks like a standard 1157 bulb with two filaments, the two wires that attach to the base are the hots, one wire for park light (the dim) and one wire for brake turn (the bright). that bulb grounds through the metal base, looks like a pot metal casting. that spade connector is an additional ground, usually just screwing that pot metal base to the sheetmetal is enough ground, which is why the other side doesnt have it, but if they give you the extra, might as well use it! take it right to the frame with a nice star washer.

so yes, you have (and really most all chevys have) the shared turn/brake bulb.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

looks like 2 hots and a ground, which might be what you meant, just got mixed up.

Ha - no I had no idea ..... the single wire was red so I assumed hot and the two wires together were black so assumed ground. Yes definitely two filament bulb.


So I assume then I would take the brake rear left brake park light wire from harness as well as the rear left indicator wire from harness and attach each to the power black wires.
Then ground the other (red wire).

Same one the other side (right).
What provides a signal for reverse lights in this setup ?

If I wanted to completely remove this setup for something new ..... do they have it ? Just mean A more complete single setup with new wiring and connectors. I searched but only found

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Park-Tai...IAAOSwvjtcugbj

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by FAKKY

Ha - no I had no idea ..... the single wire was red so I assumed hot and the two wires together were black so assumed ground. Yes definitely two filament bulb.


So I assume then I would take the brake rear left brake park light wire from harness as well as the rear left indicator wire from harness and attach each to the power black wires.
Then ground the other (red wire).

Same one the other side (right).
What provides a signal for reverse lights in this setup ?

If I wanted to completely remove this setup for something new ..... do they have it ? Just mean A more complete single setup with new wiring and connectors. I searched but only found

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Park-Tai...IAAOSwvjtcugbj

you would only use the indicator wires for each side and then wire the column as a single bulb setup, you only use the brake wire if you have the column wired that way and again, only if you have separate bulbs.


the reverse lights run through a reverse switch on the trans.

if you replaced the lights, you would still have the same wiring decision to make, it would be a lateral move. regarding the colors, for whatever reason, aftermarket lights seem to follow a different, non intuitive wire color scheme

[FAKKY]

I have been chasing down a lack of power to my new ididt column front left turn signal.

I think its a problem with the column - unless there is some trickery I don't understand.

Using a powerprobe.

With key on ign I have power to Purple (Turn Signal Feed) at connector L

When i select Right turn signal - I have power at back of wires of the ididit column plug (for right F and right read - Green[N] and Royal Blue [J])

When I select no turn signal there is no power.
When I select hazard my dash lights and rear lights up correctly.

But.
When I select left turn signal
I have power at back of ididit column plug connector M (yellow left rear) but have NO power at connector H (light blue left front turn).

seems to me like an issue with that circuit internally ....

[FAKKY]

Think I worked out/stumbled on power to front indicator issue. Bad groudn somewhere. I had to tak my rear left light out to fish the licence plate wire though and lost power on self grounding housing ..... but then got power to front Weird ..... well probably not weird just ...... now I know.

The wiring and bulb is toast for the licence plate, single wire self grounded.
Anyone got any recommendations on replacement bulb/socket for rear license plate ?
Has to fit in that small housing and also have "lip" on it to attach to stock plate bracket.

[FAKKY]

This is the light socket for real licence plate need to find a replacement for.



closest I have found so far is .....

https://tinyurl.com/w6dqzvg

[joedoh]

based on the lugs on your key switch I would say its probably 30A.

the wires you are showing look like 12ga, which can handle ~20a in short runs, maybe a little more. modern ignition wiring is almost 10ga, so probably 11?

wire gauge is like steel gauge, the lower the number the higher the capacity, so 12ga is the same as having 6 20ga.

its worth stating that fuses are there to protect the wire, not the equipment, so the max current of a wire is reflected in the fuse size.

you can rebuild that socket, a lot of companies make a bulb base repair kit, or you can use a replacement. search for 1156 which is the single filament bayonet mounting bulb type. here is one I found quickly

https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Wirin.../dp/B008DXRJN2

remember that your current socket grounds through the base in contact with the sheetmetal. newer sockets may have a separate ground.

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

based on the lugs on your key switch I would say its probably 30A.

the wires you are showing look like 12ga, which can handle ~20a in short runs, maybe a little more. modern ignition wiring is almost 10ga, so probably 11?

wire gauge is like steel gauge, the lower the number the higher the capacity, so 12ga is the same as having 6 20ga.

its worth stating that fuses are there to protect the wire, not the equipment, so the max current of a wire is reflected in the fuse size.

you can rebuild that socket, a lot of companies make a bulb base repair kit, or you can use a replacement. search for 1156 which is the single filament bayonet mounting bulb type. here is one I found quickly

https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Wirin.../dp/B008DXRJN2

remember that your current socket grounds through the base in contact with the sheetmetal. newer sockets may have a separate ground.

Thanks Joedoh.
I think off the ignition terminal I have two wires .... essentially 1 that powers half of the body fuse panel ..... and 1 that goes to my LS engine control panel (coils, fuel pump etc) ..... so just got me thinking wonder how that all works in terms of safety off the switch itself.

Got all of the wiring under the dash cleaned up last night night .... more work than I thought inverted on my back hiding wires
Should be ready to start hanging the front clip here soon and wiring the front lights.

[FAKKY]

Been in and out ..... got most of wiring done now ..... and front end assembled


Everything works --- just waiting on bluetooth speakers and a USB charger to arrive.

Need to tackle E-Brake. Wired the switch up so actuator works fine.
But need to splice into the ford 8.8 brake cable system .... pic attached.



What would the part be called to attach the end of a cable ...... to a pin hole on end of actuator.
Im guessing some sort of clevis ..... with a single wire hold ?

eg

Something like this - but only for 1 wire not 2 .....

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-s-8078

[joedoh]

ahhh brand new tires on a project is my favorite look

[FAKKY]

Got the radio installed.
Sounds great for $70. Turn your PC up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xFPlMd6oOnM

[FAKKY]

Got my electric parking brake wired and cabled up ......... all crimped.
Now need to mount and wire to 12v.

[slammed57]

I'll be working on this same thing next week, just got my actuator in the mail. lol

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by slammed57

I'll be working on this same thing next week, just got my actuator in the mail. lol

Right on ......... now I need to work out how to make my explorer rear end brakes work.
Came like this from junkyard.





If you pull on the main wire ---- it only pulls the spring on the drivers side (shorter) wire. Not sure how that larger grey metal and bracket mechanism is meant to work right there.

I *think* what I will need to do is remove all that and somehow bridge the two cables into teh main cable with a dual adapter. Like one of these ... that holds main cable aut one end .... and both other cables at other end (so 2).



Thoughts, ideas , suggestions ?

[FAKKY]

Almost like either

https://tinyurl.com/y9xffxeb

or

https://tinyurl.com/ydxk8p4q

or similar

[Rusti]

The original system is not perfect but it works. You have to bolt the plate where the cables are connected, shown in your picture, to the frame. Than just use an old brake cable and connect the little metal ball at the end to the original cable connector you show in picture number 3. The other end has to be connected to the park brake motor the same way you are showing in picture number 1 and 2.
Please correct me if I am work.
So long
Arnd

[FAKKY]

Originally Posted by Rusti

The original system is not perfect but it works. You have to bolt the plate where the cables are connected, shown in your picture, to the frame. Than just use an old brake cable and connect the little metal ball at the end to the original cable connector you show in picture number 3. The other end has to be connected to the park brake motor the same way you are showing in picture number 1 and 2.
Arnd

Not quite following ...... i've tried every combo I canthnk of ...... but it never puts tension on the passenger side.

Was thinking about seperating the cables ...... and joining like this and welding the two together.

Then the one main cable would pull both.
I would lose a bit of adjustment on each cable but I could use a pulley style to lengthen or loosen the wire as required.




thoughts ?

[FAKKY]

So getting around to tackle this .........
Whats everyones/anyones thoughts on routing ?

I made a little block jig thing to support the wires ...... and I think it will have to be routed sort of like im holding it with a big eye bolt or two holing in place on frame rail.

The drivers side goes right under the rear leafs ......
The passenger side goes around the diff to the other side.

The eye bolts would hold in place together and also allow me to move away from leafs a few inches.

thoughts ?




Block that supports the two rear lines and will be pulled from middle. Just mocked up ... it will have more support and be straight.



Where the plastic coupler tying the two is - I would put a heavy duty eye bolt or heim or similar to hold and keep away from leaf spring.

[FAKKY]

Sort of liek this guy (on the eye bolt deal)

[dsraven]

check post 2

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ble-route.html