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#376 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Purmerend, Netherlands
Posts: 1,657
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Re: My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
Truck is coming along great!
Sidewalk is a great upgrade to the garage ( sounds like I'm a bit jealous....)
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Cheers!! Kees. 1959 Chevy Fleetside Longbed My build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=643426 Kool Guyz CC Instagram: _King_Kustom_ |
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#377 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 505
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Re: My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
Looking good Dave. Hey, where did you get your column drop? I like the way is blends in with the column and dash. Jim
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#378 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 63
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Re: My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
Just spent the last hour going thru your build. Flat out incredible!! Really like what you did with the doors. I also removed my parking lights. Your fabrication skills are way above mine. Keep up the good work.
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#379 | ||
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 364
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My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
Quote:
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#380 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 364
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My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
Quote:
I bought the column drop from Summit Racing at www.summitracing.com. They are a great seller, ship lightening quick and have never let me down. Part #BRG-911202.
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#381 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 364
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My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
I repeated the door modification on the passenger side door. This time, I am showing a few more pics of the process.
When I cut the sheet metal corner of the door off, I lost the sheet metal where the door skin wrapped over the sheet metal in the back. To correct this, I added a strip of 18-gauge sheet metal on the back side of the door. I punched some holes in the center of the strip and plug welded them. I didn't weld the edge of this strip to the back side of the door. I think this gives the back side of the door more of a "from-the-factory" appearance. I then welded the edge. The extra layer of sheet metal in the rear added to the overall thickness of the door.
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#382 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 364
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My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
As with the driver's side, I then welded a strip of metal to form the new back of the cowl where the cowl meets the door. After spraying the inside with weld-thru primer to avoid future rust inside the cavity, I cut and welded a piece of 18-gauge sheet metal over the new "cowl extension". I grinded everything down smooth.
I think it ended up looking just as good as the driver's side!
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#383 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 364
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My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
I enlisted the help of a local speed shop to weld some of the joints of my polished stainless steel exhaust.
Their TIG welds came out much nicer than my MIG welds would have come out. The shop belongs to a friend of a friend. I dropped it off and they had it done in two days. I connected the mufflers and side-exhaust extensions back onto the x-pipe with stainless steel band clamps and reinstalled the whole assembly back under the truck.
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#384 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 364
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My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
My radiator came from US Radiator designed to sit between plates mounted to the top and bottom of the radiator core support with the expensive, fragile aluminum radiator and electric dual fans sandwiched in between the two plates. I prefer more secure nut-and bolt fasteners, so I had the same local speed shop TIG-weld aluminum angles to my aluminum radiator so that I could bolt through them into the radiator core support.
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#385 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 364
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My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
When I made the aluminum angles for the radiator, I also made matching steel mounting plates with receiving nuts welded into each of the plates that I could later weld to the radiator core support.
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#386 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 364
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My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
I then welded the mounting plates to my radiator core support. I plug-welded the plates from the front side and only welded the inside and bottom of each of the plates on the engine bay side.
I then bolted the radiator into it's new home. There are no bolts or nuts exposed through the grill on the front side of the core support and the welds are all hidden behind the radiator on the back side of the core support. Best of all, I know the radiator isn't moving from it's new home.
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#387 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 7,028
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Re: My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
Nice work! Really like the radiator mount fabrication. Good ideas.
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#388 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Plains, Missouri
Posts: 7,559
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Re: My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
Nice work...Jim
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my build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=459839 Jimbo's long bed step build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=464626<br /> |
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#389 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Purmerend, Netherlands
Posts: 1,657
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Re: My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
Nice work!!
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Cheers!! Kees. 1959 Chevy Fleetside Longbed My build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=643426 Kool Guyz CC Instagram: _King_Kustom_ |
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#390 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Corona, California
Posts: 7,998
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Re: My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
Real nice fab work.
Kim |
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#391 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Posts: 505
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Re: My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
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#392 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Sachse TX
Posts: 1
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Re: My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
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#393 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 6
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![]() Quote:
Hi I see you took photos of motor, I dont spose you got any close ups of either side ? The reason I ask is I had someone take the 235 out of my dads 1957 chev due to blown piston and rings so we decided to give the motor a full rebuild, now I have no one clued up enough to put the motor back in and attach all thats required. My dad died, which is why I now have it. Or are you able to advise me on which wires go to where ? Thanks in advance |
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#394 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Fallbrook California
Posts: 249
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Re: My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
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#395 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 364
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Re: My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
Quote:
BRAND: Sunpie ITEM DESCRIPTION: 2X Chrome 7" Round LED Headlight with White Amber Halo 1997~2015 Jeep Wrangler EBAY SELLER: auto-sports (all lower case letters) Keep in mind, I haven't wired these up yet and cannot confirm if they work properly. That's probably not too smart on my part!
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#396 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 364
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My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
Quote:
They do sell reprints of the original wiring diagram for the truck. That may be your best bet. Sorry I couldn't be more help! Best of luck to you on your project.
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#397 |
A320 Pilot/USAF Retired
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,622
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Re: My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
Very cool!
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JJ My 1957 build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=334552 http://www.trifive.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22037 Instagram - Chuckdriver57 |
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#398 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 364
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My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
Now that the holidays are over, it's definitely time to get back to work on the project.
After hunting high and low on the internet and looking through all of my catalogs, I was not able to find pedal plates for my truck, so I decided to make some. I bought some Lokar billet aluminum pedal pads from Summit Racing. I made the pedal plates to fit inside these pedal pads. It wasn't too difficult as they only have a slight bend to them. I drilled the mounting holes and then made mounting brackets and welded them to the back side of the plates. The pedal pads now screw to the plates. I still need to take the die grinder to those ugly welds!
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#399 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 364
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My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
I drilled mounting holes in the clutch and brake pedal arms and mounted the two pedal pad assemblies.
I was concerned that the pedals were going to be too close together, so I purposely offset the mounting brackets on the clutch pedal as far off center as I could without blocking any of the mounting holes. The brake pedal needs to be centered under the steering column, so I can't do anything with it. I am also concerned about how much room is leftover for the throttle pedal already. The clutch and brake pedals still aren't far apart enough for my taste. I plan to relocate the mounting brackets on the clutch pedal as far to the side and block one of the 4 mounting holes. The pedal pad instructions indicate that you don't need to use all 4 bolts anyway.
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#400 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Posts: 364
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My 1955 Chevy 3100 build
I want the front bumper much higher and tighter to the body than how it originally came from the factory.
I positioned the bumper in its new location and welded some scraps from the bumper to the body. I also added another temporary steel strap from the bottom of the bumper to the frame. I then took measurements from the mounting bolts of the bumper to the mounting bolts of the frame and fabricated new mounts from some scrap pieces of angle and plate welded together. I think they look better than the original bumper mounts! You can never have too much scrap metal laying around and it seems like no piece of scrap is too small to save!
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