Lurker OrrieG Progress Pics

[Tri5Nerd]

I'm going to go with a 10" sub to reduce the space needed. Or they now have subs that don't require that much space, I forget what they call them. Doh! I just looked them up, they're called shallow sealed subs.
Where you going to put your amps?

Tri5

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Tri5 that is a good idea, would keep them from getting beat up by stuff down low on the floor and keep the storables more out of sight. Sub may or may not stay. I can always add it later. Thats the feedback I am hoping for by posting it.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by candyx

Nice sketch but forget the rod holders and make it for a rifle and shotgun, seeing how our world is so messed up!!!!!!!

I was trying to be PC and not perpetuate the Redneck Idaho image! There will be room for the 12 ga, 3.06 and Glock backup.

[1985-GMC]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

There will be room for the 12 ga, 3.06 and Glock backup.

Very nice!

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Tri5Nerd

I'm going to go with a 10" sub to reduce the space needed. Or they now have subs that don't require that much space, I forget what they call them. Doh! I just looked them up, they're called shallow sealed subs.
Where you going to put your amps?

Tri5

I have room under the seat the bottom of the metal frame is about 4" above the floor. I am going to mount the amp in the middle with slid out storage drawers on each side. The way I set up the seat they can tilt forward or be removed just like they were in the Yukon third row. The seats sit flush with the floor in the Yukon so nothing will hang below my frame. Here is the idea:

[candyx]

Thats good, just wanted to know if i was in the right forum.They used to make jokes about Rednecks but i think they will be the only group left to save the county.......

[bensimmons_05]

Is there anything on your seat rail to prevent the seats from sliding sideways on the rail back and forth? I just got to looking at it.

[OrrieG]

When both sit side by side the outside latches have about 1/4" clearance to the main 1x1 frame. After I get them installed and drive it a bit so they settle I will make some shims and bolt them into place. The stock brackets have about 1/2 clearance side to side on the front and more on the back. Here is a setup that used the stock brackets on a stock blazer or suburban floor with recesses added in the floor. You can see even the stock ones have some room to go side to side.

[Spackle100]

You have a PM sir...

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Spackle100

You have a PM sir...

replied

[bajabob]

Nice work Orrie.... watching how your sound system goes together... Still have a ton of work to do before I get there...

[Tri5Nerd]

The 4" height is enough for the biggest amps out there, you don't mind if I steal your idea for the amp?

Tri5

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Tri5Nerd

The 4" height is enough for the biggest amps out there, you don't mind if I steal your idea for the amp?

Tri5

Hey, it's not stealing in my mind, just passing on information, that's what this board is all about. It certainly is not a unique idea, I've seen them tucked under the seats in 60's cars too.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by Spackle100

You have a PM sir...

Spackle wanted a copy of my inside corner cab template so I made up a thread in the main section that covers it with the template, photos and narrative about my thinking. Feel free to use it. Patrick

[OrrieG]

My free Vintage Air AC kit (used partial) just cost me $100 in misc small parts, but I have enough to get the under dash stuff installed, hoses thru the firewall and heater hoses connected to the engine. three big pieces left are the compressor, condenser, and accumulator/dryer stuff. Taking tomorrow off, going to try and sneak out and work on my back cab interior infill. Does anyone have infinity 6x9 speakers installed, I need a size for the rough in hole?

[bartsim]

Your truck is coming together nicely. A quick question. Did you paint the outside of your cab...or just the inside for now? I am not ready for paint yet... just curious. Nice work, I cant wait for my build to get that far.

[OrrieG]

Just the inside, that was all I could afford for now. I wanted to get it done because most of the interior assembly work is no or low dollar and can be done over the "cooler" winter. Also just wanted to see how I would do with the new gun and paint system, last time I painted anythin, except for primer, was in 1977 with laquer! I have just about everything I need to put it back together and make it driveable. Not complete or finished just so I can start driving it again.

[OrrieG]

Stove got the shop to decent temp. Spent the morning doing honey-do cabinetry for the wife "since I had the woodworking stuff set up" as she put it. This afternoon did the corner mock ups. Made templates, trimmed, cut the pieces, trimmed, notched, etc. The cab corners are a pretty complicated 1/4 section of a oval shaped cone. Here is where I am. Had Ms. Joan hold up an old 6x9 for reference. Rethinking the size, not much room behind the inside corner. Have been trying to figure out what to use for the curve then it dawned on me I have all this blueprint protective cardstock at work I use for model making. Worked like a champ, nice smooth radius, should take the fiberglass well.

[bartsim]

It looks like the paint turned out great. I would like to get my cab back on the frame soon. I need the room. It seems like I spend a lot of time moving pieces from place to place...just to make room for the current project at hand.

[OrrieG]

Went to the big box fabric store. Wife had been there twice and the auto stuff they had way too light of grey. I went looking for alternative, while wandering around found a rack of odd end stuff. Found just the grey I needed, it the amount I needed. Expected to pay a lot for it when it was said and done with mill end discount, 50% off and another discount walked out with 48" x 54" for $3.84. Enough to do behind the cab and corners, front kick panels and maybe some for a transfer case shift boot. The "real" stuff to match my seats was $175 for a hide, this is close enough and will be hidden in the shadows so it will do. Got the frame started for the back panel then the band saw blade started jumping off the wheels. Was cold and hungery so called it a day, no pics, will post when the back is ready. Also found out that for some reason 1/4" x 2' x 4' oak panel was less and nicer than the fir plywood. So far I have less than $15 in my back panels.

[bajabob]

Orrie
Not sure how you do it up there in the really cold north west.... Raining and chilly here all day... wha wha... Looks like she is coming along nicely... like the color of the paint as well.

[OrrieG]

Wood stove gets the inside temp up to 45-50 which is manageable when it is below 25 outside. Obviously can't do any body work, fiberglas, painting, etc at that temp. I have space in a commercial building that I can use for short term stuff (like applying upholtery fabric) that does not have long term odors. Can't paint there, its an office, but am thinking I might even do some fiberglas work in one of the restrooms with a good fan. Also going to use it to layout and organize the wiring.

[1lo67]

Looking good...i think that color goes well with these old trucks.

[bjcaldwe]

I see some ideas I will have to borrow. Nice work.

[OrrieG]

More progress on the interior. The back frame is deceptively simple looking, but took hours to fab. The cab back curves inward and slopes slightly top to bottom. The bottom of the window frame has a slight tilt, it's not parallel with the floor. And there is the cab mount bracing to deal with. Here is photo of the back frame installed and a shot of the back side showing the fine tuning to fit. The blocking is for gun racks or storage bins I'm going to add later. Decided to just keep the back simple instead of trying to fab and fiberglas compartments.

Frame is screwed to floor and upper inside flange with #10 Tek screws. They have a built in drill so you do not have to predrill and try and find your holes. I have used them to hold wood studs to 1/4" steel columns (need a 1/2" drill motor to drive those!) I decided to hold off on finishing the speaker enclosures until I get the ones I want. Found there is too much variance among 6x9's in size and depth.

Also insulated the back of the cab and corners, feels like progress. Used 3M super77 to stick it in place. Insulation is the foil air pocket stuff from big box home store. Should help with sound dampening and keep the cab cooler. Make sure you mask off anything you do not want the adhesive on. I have used it for years at work and found it is next to impossible to get off of anything. Definately do not want to breath it.

[JML55]

Nice progress, looks good.