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#1 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Thanks. I need the other parts of my life to settle down so I can get time to finish them up.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#2 | |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Quote:
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__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,352
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
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1967 C10 Suburban 454/TH400/3.07's An Average Joe and His 'Burb: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=775843 |
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#4 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
No new data at this time. I am looking to change distributors before doing any further tuning. It has been tough to find time lately for the truck and at this point my focus is on upgrading the defroster. Up to this fall I never had a problem with the windows fogging up. Now they seem to start fogging up the minute I close the door.
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__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#5 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Some follow up on the door panel wetness issue. I thought all was good but the 4th door panel started showing water after some particularly heavy rains as of late. So off it came and after examining the seal it was clear it was pretty deformed (see photo). So I cleaned it up and used some shower sealant to build the old seal back up so it will make full contact with the door panel. Once again I waiting for rain to prove my theory. Good thing that this time of year it won't be a long wait.
![]() I got time today to get my test defroster finished up and installed. (Photo #2) I'm using a 12 vdc computer fan. The air is drawn in the front rectangular hole and blows out of the rectangular opening in the back and out of the hole in the side. (Last photo) The idea being it should defog the back window and the driver's side window. During the quick test after I got it installed I could feel it blowing on the back of my neck while sitting in the driver's seat. I believe that's a good sign. I used some double side tape and some more shower sealant to glue in position. (Thus the ceiling jack in the picture) I didn't want to go drilling holes if it doesn't work as well as I want it to. The plan would be to have 2 units like this one with one on each side. I just can't wait for the rain to start! ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted to some vintage Steve Earle. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...nv1XtYt4dvy3H_
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#6 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Here is a link to a good overview of a Gear Vendors unit.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...evrolet-camaro
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#7 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
And on that note I took the nylon block I scored at the Rebuilding Center (I love that place.) and cut it to size and then flycut two pieces to the proper thicknesses (One .800 & one .700) to replace the spacers I had to put under the 2nd row seat bottoms to make up for the curvature of the floor. The two bolt set up and the spacers had a tendency to wobble. Next step is to get some material for doublers underneath the floorboard.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#8 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Two steps forward one step back. Spent the morning searching for the leak in the air supply to my air control valve. I used about a quart of leak check with no results (Well I did find a small leak on one of the rear bag lines. Went in at lunch to see the old lady off to work and she said "why don't you use my stethoscope and listen for the leak?". So I did and it was slow going as I had to take them off every time I shifted position to keep from blowing an ear drum, but they were the ticket to success as I found a pretty good leak on the desiccant cartridge. I'll see in the morning if the tank is empty again.
And as so often happens one thing leads to another. Since I decided to remove the front seat to get to the leaking cartridge i decided it would be a good time to swap in the drivers side of the new set seats I got from a 2015 GMC. I wanted to try out the driver's side first just to be sure it wasn't going to cause my back to act up. (The seats in the old ladies Lexus start to bother me after about 20 minutes and the longer I ride in it the worse it gets). The old bench seat in the WMB doesn't bother my back at all but I certainly would like to have a taller seat with a head rest. Anyway after mocking the seats in position it was apparent that they were slightly wider than the original seat but I'm pretty sure I could modify the inboard mounts to get things to narrow up about 1/2" and then the driver's seat would pretty well centered on the wheel and the passenger seat would not crowd the seat belt retractor too much. All was looking good until I thought to lay the rear seat down and see how much clearance I would have. Well it turns out that I don't have any clearance to fold the seat bottoms up and then flip the backs down. (See last photo) Even after trying several different placements the fact is I won't fit behind the steering wheel if the rear seat is down. There is too much material on the back of the seats compared to the factory seat. So the seat swap is a no go. ![]()
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 Last edited by HO455; 04-10-2020 at 01:22 AM. Reason: Clarification of seat bottom problem. Thanks Doc! |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,302
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Damn I love reading all the cool stuff you do to your burb. I spend my time putting on filler and sanding it all off!
Keep up the good work! Paul
__________________
"You know that little thing in your head that keeps you from saying things you shouldn't? Yeah well, I don't have one of those" 1969 Mercury Cougar Standard 4 speed 1969 Mercury Cougar XR7 convertible 1970 4WD Chevrolet Suburban 1997 4WD Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Bed (purchased new January 1997) |
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#10 |
BlahBlahBlah
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Wa.
Posts: 19,866
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
I totally agree with this. I have re-read his thread from start to wherever he has left off many times.
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… … … … … … … … ... … … … … … … … … … … … |
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#11 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Aww shucks guys. Thanks!
I guess I should go get busy now the weather has turned better.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,302
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Great detective work there!
__________________
"You know that little thing in your head that keeps you from saying things you shouldn't? Yeah well, I don't have one of those" 1969 Mercury Cougar Standard 4 speed 1969 Mercury Cougar XR7 convertible 1970 4WD Chevrolet Suburban 1997 4WD Chevrolet Silverado Extended Cab Short Bed (purchased new January 1997) |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,352
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Great info!
Thanks again for sharing. Thats too bad the late model front seats didnt work out. I have no doubt that you will find, build, or modify something that does though!
__________________
1967 C10 Suburban 454/TH400/3.07's An Average Joe and His 'Burb: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=775843 |
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#14 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Thank you gentlemen.
The hunt is on for one of the seats I posted earlier (#625). Well, by hunt I mean looking at craigslist. The old lady doesn't want me traipsing around the country yet.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#15 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Santa Paula, CA
Posts: 600
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
If you find that you have drilled to large an orifice in the choke pull off you can solder or braze it closed and try again. In fact it may be easier/faster to just drill it out completely then soldering it or brazing it closed as it's easier material to drill out than the metal housing material is.
I had the original factory quadrajet on my 72 c10 for years. I researched so much info about quadrajets it's crazy. I got really comfortable with taking it apart and cleaning it and rebuilding it. At first it was a nightmare because I had no idea how they worked or what was even inside. Anyways, long story short is I had to replace it. I learned that the main body casting of the carb had tiny hair line cracks in the venturi booster walls where the vacuum chambers are for the manifold vacuum signal port on the passenger side of the carb.(directly behind the choke pull off canister.) My truck ran great for about the first hour of driving. Then it would have a weird kind of hunting idle speed and it was leaking fuel into the vacuum chambers that it eventually leaked fuel into my distributor vacuum advance canister and rotted the diaphragm giving me both a vacuum leak and a malfunctioning vacuum advance. Oh man, it took me literally months to figure that whole mess out. It's to bad because I really liked my quadrajet. I actually miss it. ![]() Another thing to check is the power piston spring tension. There is a way to measure the spring rate based on inches of vacuum. It's similar to the step up springs in an edelbrock. You want a stiffer spring so that the metering rods lift up out of the jets sooner(higher vacuum signal) vs. Later(lower vacuum signal). of course you need to match your timing curve in the distributor to the fuel demand of the engine and the flow of your carb. Fun stuff once you get it all dialed in. ![]() You want 7/8 of a turn of preload on your secondary butterfly spring tensioner. That's as soon as the spring arm contacts the carb body 7/8 turn more and lock it in with the set screw. |
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#16 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
I know the feeling when you get a good carburetor you hate to lose it. Good job on figuring out the problem with your Qjet. It is unfortunate that it was one of those un-repairable problems.
Its interesting that you have found Qjets to be finicky where I have the opposite opinion of them. They are usually pretty easygoing compared to lots of other carburetors I've come across. Unless you try to bolt one off of a 230CI on a 454CI engine. Then you got your work cut out for you trying to getting it to idle We have had some folks at work get sick (NON COVID) this week so I've had to work straight through since my last post until today and I've had a bunch of catch up to do just to keep the home front happy. But will I have some more Qjet information to post when I get some more time to tune the WMB.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#17 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Santa Paula, CA
Posts: 600
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
The issues with my carb are the reason why I had a hard time getting it to hold a tune. My truck has been driven all over the u.s. for a number of years because it was a tow rig for a 5th wheel. The original owner bought it as a retirement gift to himself back in 72. Him and his wife drove all over the place. So by the time I got hold of it. The carb was on its last leg. Dont have a bad thing to say about the quadrajet. Other than it having a bad rep with people that dont understand them. Lol.
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1972 C/10 LWB - Mine 1964 C/10 LWB - My Dad's Instagram: Mike_The_Grad |
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#18 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Some more Qjet information. In the previous carburetor posting I said that I loosened the air flapper to the minimum tension. I knew this to be too loose for the motor in the WMB but I like to test and then make a change. So out to the freeway i went. Once things were warmed up I slow to about 45 mph and then punch the throttle. If the flapper is too loose it will bog. I then repeat the test several times to get a good idea of what is happening. Then pull off the highway and tighten up the tension on the flapper 1/4 turn and go for another test. I repeat this until I no hesitation. I will have to loosen the tension spring when I go to far. Which is always the case.
MiketheGrad said that 7/8th of a turn was where he set his. I don't know if that is where mine end up as I've never gone back and checked the setting that way. Next for me is tuning the choke pulloff bleed off rate. Earlier I had drilled the orifice on the pull off and warned about drilling it too far and making it too fast and ended up with the dreaded Quadrabog! I did end up with an over sized bleed off orifice once I was finished. Once again MiketheGrad told how he solves that problem. By soldering the orifice and then redrilling the hole. At one point years ago I had a plastic pulloff which is very difficult to solder and I had no luck using epoxy to get a long term repair. For whatever reason JB Weld never seemed to stay stuck inside the the pulloff. I ended up stumbling on some brass aquarium air valves and then light went off in my head. I installed one of them in the vacuum line and now I had an adjustable pull off. Which was very handy back when I was bracket racing. One setting for the street and another setting for at the track with the slicks on. These days brass aquarium valves are impossible to find so a friend made me one. See photo #1. Photo #2 shows how I install the valve. When tuning the pulloff I open it too far and close it in 1/4 turn increments. And again I will start with a bog and reduce it until it is gone. I test for this differently than the flapper, but once starting again with the engine warmed up. I punch the throttle from a dead stop and tune the bog out. Now with the WMB and the current engine excessive wheel spin isn't an issue. ![]() Now these adjustments do require the engine to have a good basic tune before starting. Changes in timing can cause these adjustments to need some tmore weaking. The more you do the more you learn and the easier it gets. On a separate project I forgot to post a photo of the nylon spacers I made for the rear seat mounts. (Back on post # 617)
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#19 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 1,302
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
I love nylon for spacers -- no squeaks, no rust, easy on paint, and durable. I used HDPE to level out my bed!
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1968 LWB C20 / AC / Wood Bed |
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#20 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Santa Paula, CA
Posts: 600
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Never seen one of those valves, that's pretty cool.
Another way to solve the over drilling on the plastic type of choke pull off is to get some delrin round stock or similar type material and cut it to fit inside a piece of vacuum tubing, then using a pin vise or jewelers drill set, drill the orifice you want in the round stock and insert it in the tubing that feeds the choke pull off. Cool thing about this is that you can have different pieces for different setups like at the track or the street.
__________________
1972 C/10 LWB - Mine 1964 C/10 LWB - My Dad's Instagram: Mike_The_Grad |
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#21 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Thank you sir. You used to be able to walk into a pet store and buy an nice little brass valve for a couple of bucks and be good to go. But now there all plastic and they aren't very happy under the hood.
Been busy working on the WMB. I though I would post a teaser photo. I will post more after I get the metal sliver out of the end of my finger.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#22 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
That's the TH400 out of the WMB. Looking at the ID tag on it reveals a bit of a mystery. It shows a a 1968 truck transmission. (Photo #1) . I would have not been surprised if it was no longer the original transmission after all these years.
The mileage on the truck indicated 95k which seemed correct. Although the rear gears had been swapped from 3.73's to 3.07 s but, the speedometer was not recalibrated so the speedometer said 45 when you were doing 55. So it the mileage would have been low but the rear end had been replaced relatively recently so my guess is that the error would be less than 10k miles. The mystery part is did it have to get a replacement transmission under warranty in 1968? Or did the transmission get swapped and for no real reason a 1968 get put in? As far as the actual work being done it has been straight forward. I pulled the passenger side header for clearance and the old one was on the ground in about 2 hours. Then it was time to remove the crossmember bolts and see if I could slide it back far enough to get the new TH350C and Gear Vendors overdrive up in place and then slide the crossmember forward into place. I might have made it happen but those hard lines I ran up through the floor for the air bags got in the way. Okay now the plan was unbolt the GV from the TH350C and install the transmission first. This went well and I had the transmission bolted to the engine and held up with a stand. Now the fun began. I had to really fight to try and get the crossmember forward enough to put the bolts in the frame. Once I realized that the truck being on the lift was the problem, I dropped the truck back on the ground. Then with the bags fully aired up I crawled underneath and the crossmember slide right into place. Once the bolts were torqued I put the truck back up in the air. Lifting the truck from the under the frame on a 2 post lift was causing the frame rails to twist and prevent me from getting the top holes on the crossmember to line up. Once the pressure was gone the twist disappeared and everything lined up. Then I tried to bolt the transmission mount on the transmission and once again found damaged threads. Uhggg! Not again! The first 1/2" or so of the threads in the driver's side hole looked as if someone had tried to Helicoil them and failed. I was able to get most of what I thought was the Helicoil out. Fortunately the holes in the case are about 1 1/2" deep so there is still a lot good threads but I had to do some serious searching through the bolt box to find the right length bolt so I would feel confident it would stay put. The passenger side hole wasn't as bad but none the less I was careful with my bolt selection. Once I am happy with everything the last thing I plan on doing is putting some blue Locktite on the 2 bolts and carefully torquing them down. Once that was figured out the GV slid right into place like it belonged there. (Photo #2 & 3) I knew that my exhaust pipes may not still work and boy was I right. Photo shows with the crossmember in position how far the pipes are off from lining up. More work for tomorrow that's for sure.
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#23 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 11,119
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Before I reinstalled the passenger side header I noticed that the insulation on the starter's jumper from the solenoid to the starter motor was cracked and falling off. (Photo #1 black wire next to red line.) So I took some time to put some heat shrink tubing over it. Not very good quality wire as the starter only got installed last July .
After the header was back in place I then threw myself into getting the exhaust connected back together. Basically I had to shorten the collector's about 5/8" and the corresponding tube about 1 1/2'. Unfortunately that only got me close. I had to put a pretty fair sized dent in each tube to get it to clear the crossmember. (Photo # 2) The tube is pulled back from the crossmember to show the dent. When in place it gives about 1/4" of clearance between the tube and crossmember. I hope it will be enough when the exhaust is hot. Of course the other end had to be extended. So I used a coupling that I welded on one end and clamped on the other end. (Photo # 3 & 4 blue arrows show where clamps goes)The idea being that if the dented areas end up hitting the crossmember and vibrating I will be able to unbolt things instead of cutting it apart with a Sawsall. As part of the making the tube clear the crossmember I also moved the where the O2 sensors are installed in the exhaust. I had originally installed the bungs in the exhaust pipes months before I had received the Innovate guage set. During the installation of the Air/Fuel guage I had to read the directions and that is when I learned I had put the bungs in the wrong location. ![]()
__________________
Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#24 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 1,352
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Quality work!
That OD is gonna be awesome. I just installed a poor mans OD in mine last week. 31/10.50's lol
__________________
1967 C10 Suburban 454/TH400/3.07's An Average Joe and His 'Burb: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=775843 |
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#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 592
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Re: Working Man's Burbon
Looks good. Those O2 sensors definitely need to be installed at least 10 degrees above level so that any moisture or condensation runs off the sensor.
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1972 C20 Suburban 1964 Corvette Coupe 1997 Lexus LX450 |
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