Ackattack's Pro touring restoration thread

[VA72C10]

good progress.

[72 SHORTBED 7.0]

Good work not two much longer keep it up ....

[Ackattack]

Well I've been spinning my wheels (figurativly only )

So in trying to get the tach to work, I used a "pull-up" circuit as described on LS1tech. As far as I can tell, doing this burnt out the ECM, so now the truck won't start at all. I'll be ordering a new ECM here shortly as well as building a circuit board to get a clean (and safe) tach signal.

I started installing the shifter. I'm using a lokar column shifter that uses a cable. Well I ordered the wrong diameter setup, so a new one is coming for that.

Also, I was reading about a board member breaking a tie rod, when it was hitting his pitman arm. Turns out he had the centerlink turned around 180 degrees. Just out of curiosity I went and checked how mine was installed, and sure enough it's 180 degrees out also. So I'll be flipping that around too.

And then I got the water pump gaskets to change out, need to get a bucket to drain the radiator fluid into (we're having our basement finished, and the drywallers stole all of my buckets )

I have the week between christmas and new years off, so I'm hoping to have the truck able to move under its own power by the end of the break. Then I will have a few more things until it will be time to get it inspected by the Highway patrol (since it has 2 VINS), registered, and then aligned.

[Thealien]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

Well I've been spinning my wheels (figurativly only )

So in trying to get the tach to work, I used a "pull-up" circuit as described on LS1tech. As far as I can tell, doing this burnt out the ECM, so now the truck won't start at all. I'll be ordering a new ECM here shortly as well as building a circuit board to get a clean (and safe) tach signal.

.

Could you elaborate on this as a few of us are doing these swaps and you may save us from frying the PCM. Doesn't the PCM send out a tach signal?

[Sinister]

That motor sounds sweet, you'll be driving it in no time.

[VA72C10]

Sorry to hear about the issues with the ECM but I'm sure you'll have it up and running soon. Sounds like you have it all figured out. Do you have a picture or link of how the centerlink was installed wrong? Don't want to make the same mistake when re-installing mine. Thanks!

[Ackattack]

OK, I got the engine running.

So here is how I F*&#ed up.

The ECM I was using was from an '05 Yukon Denali with a 6.0L in it. My 5.3L engine is from an '05 Avalanche. I knew some of the engine parameters between the two would be different considering the displacement diffference. So...I took a look at the tune from my '05 Silverado also with a 5.3L. I figured "hey, I'll just copy all of the parameters over to the 68's tune, and for a stock application I should be good.

So using HPtuner I used the "compare" function and quickly and blindly changed all of the parameters to match my '05 silverado's tune.

Here's where I went wrong. There is a parameter in HPtuner called "Pedal Desired Area". I changed this to match my 05 silverado. So I fired it up with the new tune (not thinking anything of it) and hooked up my tach. Well it was the tune.

After going back and looking at my tune, the description of the "Pedal Desired Area" clearly says "WARNING!!! Modify this table at OWN RISK. Incompatibility of this calibration with the vehicle TAC module calibration may render PCM permanently inoperable" So really it's my own fault for going to fast, not paying attention.

So this little lesson in attention to detail has set me back $200....but I'm back up and running again!

More work to do!

[mcbassin]

Sorry to hear about the $200 mistake. Thanks for the detail description of how it happened. Hope you get it all worked out. What was the deal on the centerlink? It will mount in either direction? Kinda crazy.

[tk-mpl]

Can you give us alittle more info on the mods you had to do to the nuetral safety switch. I am also looking for what Lokar shifter cable kit to use, what did you do wrong there.. What is the difference between the two.
Thanx
Trevor

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by tk-mpl

Can you give us alittle more info on the mods you had to do to the nuetral safety switch. I am also looking for what Lokar shifter cable kit to use, what did you do wrong there.. What is the difference between the two.
Thanx
Trevor

Actually, I don't think I did anything wrong with the shifter

Basically there are two sizes available. One shifter is for a 2" diameter steering column and the other is for 2-1/4". I originally got the 2" one. When I tried to put it on, it wouldn't slide over the steering shaft, so I thought I just got the wrong size.

I ordered the larger one from Summit, and tried to install it today. Well the large one is too big. So back to the smaller one. Basically between the paint and the primer, it makes the steering column a little larger diameter, so the 2" one is a very light fit

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Sorry to hear about the $200 mistake. Thanks for the detail description of how it happened. Hope you get it all worked out. What was the deal on the centerlink? It will mount in either direction? Kinda crazy.

Yeah, it will fit either direction. I got some pictures, but I'll have to post them later.

[Puropedo]

Really, really sweet built...Im gonna have to make some time to go over the whole thing, are those sanderson headers you are using? Do they hang below the frame? Are you using the "truck" oil pan?

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by Puropedo

Really, really sweet built...Im gonna have to make some time to go over the whole thing, are those sanderson headers you are using? Do they hang below the frame? Are you using the "truck" oil pan?

The headers are stainless steel headers for a LS1 4th gen F-body. I got them off of ebay. They don't advertise a brand name on there. But you can find them by doing a search.

They don't hang below the frame (though my ball-flange collectors do ~1 in)

I'm using an F-body pan. The truck pan was too low.

[Ackattack]

-LT1 F-body calipers and "hat bracket" (not sure what it's called)
-12 bolt rear disk caliper brackets from board member that goes by glock something
-rear disk rotors from a 94-96 Impala SS (these ones are summit drilled and slotted)
-Hawk HPS pads

[GKsport67]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

-LT1 F-body calipers and "hat bracket" (not sure what it's called)
-12 bolt rear disk caliper brackets from board member that goes by glock something
-rear disk rotors from a 94-96 Impala SS (these ones are summit drilled and slotted)
-Hawk HPS pads

This rear disc from a 96 Impala SS would fit our truck? What would i have to do to swap fro a 6lug to this?

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by GKsport67

This rear disc from a 96 Impala SS would fit our truck? What would i have to do to swap fro a 6lug to this?

Aftermarket 5-lug rear axles the right width for your current rear end or a complete 5-lug rear end out of a square body 1/2-ton 2wd.

Depends upon the year of your truck and if you have trailing arms or leaf as to what is easier and less expensive.

It might be less expensive to just buy a broke square body 1/2-ton truck and pull the front suspension crossmember out of it to take care of the 5-lug front disc while you are at it. You could always put your old 6-lug stuff on the square body and sell it off to recover most of your investment.

[GKsport67]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Aftermarket 5-lug rear axles the right width for your current rear end or a complete 5-lug rear end out of a square body 1/2-ton 2wd.

Depends upon the year of your truck and if you have trailing arms or leaf as to what is easier and less expensive.

It might be less expensive to just buy a broke square body 1/2-ton truck and pull the front suspension crossmember out of it to take care of the 5-lug front disc while you are at it. You could always put your old 6-lug stuff on the square body and sell it off to recover most of your investment.

So from 73-87 i can swap my front disc brakes out & rear disc off a 96 impala disc if i wanted to keep it Chevy parts.

My truck has trailing arms.
The whole front crossmember & the rear end from the square body
Would i just need the Impala axles?

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by GKsport67

So from 73-87 i can swap my front disc brakes out & rear disc off a 96 impala disc if i wanted to keep it Chevy parts.

My truck has trailing arms.
The whole front crossmember & the rear end from the square body
Would i just need the Impala axles?

I don't think the Impala axles are the right width to use them.

I don't know if the Impala rotors require you to turn down the axle flange like the smaller rotors do but with the in hat drum parking brakes they probably will fit unmodified axles.

[lewisaric]

Wow!!! I just read all 17 pages of your build. Very nice. I`m about to start on my 68 short step. I found a 5.3/4l60e out of a wrecked 05 silverado with 28000 on it. I think reading your build will help me out alot. So I may have some questions. I want to do all of my own body work, which will be a first for me, but I`m going to take my time a pay attention to detail. My biggest concern is going to be shaving my drip rail. But enough with my rant. I really like what you have done here and hope it gets finishrd soon.

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by lewisaric

Wow!!! I just read all 17 pages of your build. Very nice. I`m about to start on my 68 short step. I found a 5.3/4l60e out of a wrecked 05 silverado with 28000 on it. I think reading your build will help me out alot. So I may have some questions. I want to do all of my own body work, which will be a first for me, but I`m going to take my time a pay attention to detail. My biggest concern is going to be shaving my drip rail. But enough with my rant. I really like what you have done here and hope it gets finishrd soon.

Thanks

things have been progressing very slowly

I got the steering column and shifter installed, a few other little things finished up, and got the brakes all plumbed. I'm haveing a problem with the brakes though.

I have the rearend up on jackstands, so it won't go anywhere. I start up the engine, put it in gear, and I can hardly get the back tires to stop....holding the brake pedal in with all of my might. I bleed the whole brake system, checked for leaks, fixed some leaks, blead it again. I bench blead the MC before I installed it. The only thing that I can see now is it looks like the stainless steel braided hose in the back that goes between the frame and axle looks to be pinched. (I believe caused by when it's lowered). So I'm going replace that and re-route it slightly so it doesn't pinch. Hopefully that will fix the brake issue.

I also need to get a few things. I'm missing the rubber o-ring on my power steering line (corvette power steering pump).

[lippsgarage]

Do you have a seperate proportioning valve, or is it built in to the mc? My 79 rears wouldn't work and it ended up being a bad valve. Great built...waiting to dig mine out of the snow and get started on it again

[Ackattack]

I have a seperate proportioning valve. It's a disk/disk setup from CPP. I considered that maybe that was the problem.....I'm gonna replace the kinked line and go from there.

[Ackattack]

It moves!!!!!! I "drove" my truck for the first time today!!!!

I finally got the brakes ironed out, so I moved it out of the garage so I could do some cleaning, turned the truck around, then put it back in the garage, but hey, it moved, stopped, and turned under its own power. Seems like no big deal, but after over 2-1/2 years of work it is a big deal to me.

[Puropedo]

Originally Posted by Ackattack

It moves!!!!!! I "drove" my truck for the first time today!!!!

Congrats!....Do you have to do anything when you reprogam your PCM for the PRN321 neutral transmission switch to work properly?

[Ackattack]

Originally Posted by Puropedo

Congrats!....Do you have to do anything when you reprogam your PCM for the PRN321 neutral transmission switch to work properly?

Nope

My neutral safety switch is on the steering column, and that goes to a stand alone relay, then to the starter.