My '67 Fleetside C10 renew

[Low Elco]

John, I'd go a tad more base. Two good rounds of the whole thing and the inner fenders and some misc was ALL of 2 gallons. Again, I was using an admittedly thin yellow base, but these trucks get big in a hurry! I think I used 2 1/2 gal of Nason clear on 3 full coats and one redo of the hood. Just my dos centavos, señor.
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[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Thats true, I wasnt thinking about what might be getting painted. on mine 4 gallons sprayable will be plenty, but I'm not doing inner fenders or underside of the hood. also the inside of the bed. thats alot of surface area.

[Low Elco]

Oh hell, I thought you were talking sprayable. That'll be more than enough. I'll take my dumb azz over here and hush up now. Are you gonna Al's the bed?
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[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Hey elco, I did put 1:1, maybe it was fine print though. lol ! Now I'm the idiot... I'm guessing Al is some kind of liner. for now thats what I'll be doin. Were takin over Sanborns thread. lol

[Low Elco]

Al's Liner. Good stuff but a bit of a pain. You can see it in yeller's thread. We're talkin technical painter type stuff, he's learning !
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[jlsanborn]

More great tips!
I knew I didn't need hi-build inside but I thought it'd cover some of the tiny scratch marks and imperfections and that I'd simply be able to scotchbrite the whole lot and be done. The orange peel is what screwed me and I should have stopped. There are a lot of compound inside radiuses in there!! Can't use a block to sand the bottom of a cereal bowl.
So.... beyond the obvious, I'm also shooting the door panels, firewall, backside of the fenders and under side of the hood all in Butternut. Bed wood will be finished with spar or similar. The top and back around the rear window will be white. I'm guessing a quart will be a $hit-ton of white (gotta do outside window frames on the doors too). How much butter ya think I'll need. The cross-fire is around $200ish for a gallon. If I gotta buy three straight away, that'll take me to the end of the second quarter in funds. The paint dude said that the cross-fire isn't accurate enough to exactly match an OEM color (blend) but will match itself very well. He also said that the colors are typically a tiny bit lighter than the good stuff and it won't cover quite as well. I'd sure like to just pick up a gallon at a time but don't want it to look like a quilt when I'm done!

Headed out to light the fire

P.S. "is that what you call it in WA?" That's funny right there, I don't care who you are.

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Wrap your sandpaper around a paint stick, cut it down some if you need too. then you can get into some tight spaces. you can just fold the paper and just hand sand the dips and curves. for the white a quart is what you want, you will have some left. why are you gonna paint the door window frames white?

[jlsanborn]

This is what I'm going for... I'd love to do the grill white too, but then I'm looking at MORE mouldings. Look at Cloud 9's grille. Thought about doing that too but dunno If I could tape that well

[jlsanborn]

Here you go...

[Low Elco]

Not hard to tape that at all, and I like the frames white. Me being me, I'd lay a silver stripe down and two tone the outside AND inside of the cab, just to screw with the citizens! It's not hard, especially with base. WOO WOO 800th post!

[jlsanborn]

I bought the rear cab / paint divider moulding and still have to install them little screw in studs before base coat. All that front moulding is another buck-twenty-five but I don't really like the hood edge piece. I was gonna just do body color up there til I saw Cloud 9's nose. It' ain't grown on me enough yet but it's sinking in.... I mentioned two-tone interior to the Boy about 30 minutes ago and boy did I got the STINK-EYE! Notice his absense at this stage!? THANKS FOR THE HELP WANKER! Once the wrenches come back out I'll be looking over his shoulder again!!!!

Got the interior and driver's door jamb flattened out and buffed. If I could kick myself in the balls for that mess I would. Maybe a blessing in disguise tho. It looks KILLER!!! Well back to the passenger side......

CONGRATS Elco on 800+!!

[gdavis]

Originally Posted by jlsanborn

This is what I'm going for... I'd love to do the grill white too, but then I'm looking at MORE mouldings. Look at Cloud 9's grille. Thought about doing that too but dunno If I could tape that well

It's only a time thing. Take your time and you too can master the taping.

[Low Elco]

Thank ya kindly! See now is your golden opportunity to show the kid that cool costs, and here's where you start payin'. In sweat.
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[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by XxCHEVYMANxX

Hey elco, I did put 1:1, maybe it was fine print though. lol ! Now I'm the idiot... I'm guessing Al is some kind of liner. for now thats what I'll be doin. Were takin over Sanborns thread. lol

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Al's Liner. Good stuff but a bit of a pain. You can see it in yeller's thread. We're talkin technical painter type stuff, he's learning !
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Got that right about me learning! I'm just barely in primer and people are asking if I've done this before. I'm like "Nope, thunk it on the eenernet".

[jlsanborn]

Did my second block at P150 tonight. Found just a few itty-bitty low spots that I think the third coat of hi-build I just layed down will fill. Tomorrow I'll lay into it with the P240 and see how it looks!
My plan is to entirely paint the cab, paint all the other panels separate then hang them. I know some folks do the interior and jambs and paint the exterior after assembly. Pros / cons????

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

Sound like things are coming along nicely, You can shoot it like you want, just make sure you put the same amount of coats on everything. The only reason I'm doing all the exterior at the same time is because of the metallic paint.

[Bomp]

I've always tried to shoot the whole enchilada at once cause I lay it on thick if I have extra paint left over in the gun on the last panel. Very bad habit. Very bad. Its the miser in me.
You've done great so far. Do it how you feel most comfortable. Can't wait to see it.

[jlsanborn]

UGH, that P240 is a drag man! I layed the "tan-in-a-can" guide coat on like dust thin. You get about ten swipes with the block and its stuck full of boogers. I have one of them donkey shlong sanding belt cleaners that is saving me. I can take a few wipes with the block then drag it across the corner of the dildo to clean the paper. Constantly wiping the dust off the surface too. I used a mile of paper and after an hour just got the roof done! It's not just the guide coat neitha. Even after I'm through that it's still just clogging bad. Am I missing something here?

[jlsanborn]

Things are going better for me here tonight! Just had to walk away and think! Keep the paper fresh, go SLOW and EASY! $hit's peelin right off and leaving a real nice finish.

Questions....
Even at the P240 I'm seein small spots of metal (fingernail at most) in a few places. Nothing in the big flat areas, just when I get to a hard corner or similar. Think one coat of G2 over that (I'll spot spray the thin spots before my full coat) then wetsand P400 is good?

After the wetsand P400, is it cool to wipe it down with the maroon scotchbrite? I've done that after the P240 just to clean the tan-in-a-can off the crevices and such. Is the maroon pad gonna leave scratches?

Thanks Elco for the Online Autobody Institute!

[Low Elco]

First, you're welcome! Glad to help, but if I'm your guide, you're in deep trouble! Ok, you need GUIDE COAT. SEM GUIDE COAT, if not the really good 3m rub on stuff. Anything else is ****e, especially in the finer grits. Seriously. It'll gum you up terrible, and if you're using spray bomb enamel, if you leave some on under your urethane, it can make it do impressively wacky things! You can use some spare base and thinner mix in your gun in a pinch. Yes, you can use red scotchbrite to scrub in your edges, especially with solid colors. You need green (finer) scotchbrite for metallics, especially if THEY'RE fine. Confused? Good! Open a beer, Bunkie, you're on the road! With solids, if your color is all mixed together, and your prime is all the same color, you can shoot in pieces, but you have to be very sure you run the same amount of coats on all pieces or your shades will vary. It's no biggie, just keep track. With metallics, you want the cut ins done and the truck loosely assembled, because all your metallic needs to lay the same way and in the same amount over the whole truck. Keep it up, and don't never, ever ever, ever eeeeeever, use spray bomb enamel for guide coat. Have fun slickin' it up! Wait till after 400, your primer will be shiny! Tip: soak a clean blue paper towel in a brand compatible wax and grease remover after you 400, and lay a nice wet sheet across the panel with it. Look at the wet surface, it'll show if you left any big scratches. Toodles!
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[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by Low Elco

First, you're welcome! Glad to help, but if I'm your guide, you're in deep trouble! Ok, you need GUIDE COAT. SEM GUIDE COAT, if not the really good 3m rub on stuff. Anything else is ****e, especially in the finer grits. Seriously. It'll gum you up terrible, and if you're using spray bomb enamel, if you leave some on under your urethane, it can make it do impressively wacky things! You can use some spare base and thinner mix in your gun in a pinch. Yes, you can use red scotchbrite to scrub in your edges, especially with solid colors. You need green (finer) scotchbrite for metallics, especially if THEY'RE fine. Confused? Good! Open a beer, Bunkie, you're on the road! With solids, if your color is all mixed together, and your prime is all the same color, you can shoot in pieces, but you have to be very sure you run the same amount of coats on all pieces or your shades will vary. It's no biggie, just keep track. With metallics, you want the cut ins done and the truck loosely assembled, because all your metallic needs to lay the same way and in the same amount over the whole truck. Keep it up, and don't never, ever ever, ever eeeeeever, use spray bomb enamel for guide coat. Have fun slickin' it up! Wait till after 400, your primer will be shiny! Tip: soak a clean blue paper towel in a brand compatible wax and grease remover after you 400, and lay a nice wet sheet across the panel with it. Look at the wet surface, it'll show if you left any big scratches. Toodles!
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Man I really appreciate the words, especially peckin em out on the mobile! I hope you have a cool phone or some voice to text app!! I don't know anyone personally that knows $hit about this. I've read THE BOOK online and every joe has his own method and materials. You're the one that is offering advice and I practically saw your last job with my own eyes. So no, I don't think I'm in trouble at all. I really feel like I'm on the right track and everything is coming out better than I'd hoped so far ('cept the seam sealer, I'm still not real happy with that).

I am using an actual guide coat (tan-in-a-can). It's Martin Senour 7233 (reads acetone and talc, plus a whole bunch of other nasty stuff). I'm thinking that in this cold weather it just needed more time to dry. Tonight the stuff wiped off clean with minimal clogging. After the last block I wiped it down with W/G remover and I know what you're sayin. When it's wet you can really see how nice it is (and the scratches that are left).

Now you scared me a bit with the "brand compatible" statement in regards to the wax and grease remover. There's a difference? I bought the stuff from the dude that's sold me all the other stuff so I hope I haven't done something bad here. It reads naptha and mineral spirits.....

I'll be all solid colors and will plan on spraying everything while its apart. If you think I should buy the whole lot of paint and mix it all into one batch that's what I'll do. Just wonder how much sprayable I'm gonna need??? I'm hopeful that I'll shoot some color this weekend!!!!

[XxCHEVYMANxX]

You would know already if your W/D is compatible, because your primer would wrinkle or get gummy when you wipe it on. so you should be ok there. seam sealer is designed to stay flexible, and will take a long time to cure at low temps. thicker takes even longer ( like drip rail opposed to rocker seams ). I would say dont get near it with block sanding. just do the scotch bright thing. Good talkin with you yesterday, keep movin forward, and listen to the elco !

[Low Elco]

x2 on the above, except to say that all these things are formulated to work together. It's the coats after the W/G that are the concern. Wax and grease remover shouldn't be a problem, (I used PPG before Nason on Yeller, 'cause that was what was at the shop) Lots of guys are paranoid about that, but whatever works for ya. Your guide sounds good, but yeah, you gotta let that stuff dry. Glad to hear you had an easier time. Don't be po'ed about the seam sealer, you want it to stay flexible. Like Cman said, just cut it a wide berth with the block. YOu did round off one edge of your Durablocks, right? They get a bit sharp on the small details. Important tip: especially from here on in, NEVER just use your fingers and paper. You can dig finger tracks faster than you can imagine. Take a used piece of scotchbrite and fold it in thirds, wrap your DA paper around it, works great. Keep it up, you're doing good. This is the edge of the cliff where it all starts to come together and be worth it. Kind of like being out in the woods, just keep walkin', you'll get there!

[jlsanborn]

Originally Posted by XxCHEVYMANxX

You would know already if your W/D is compatible, because your primer would wrinkle or get gummy when you wipe it on. so you should be ok there. seam sealer is designed to stay flexible, and will take a long time to cure at low temps. thicker takes even longer ( like drip rail opposed to rocker seams ). I would say dont get near it with block sanding. just do the scotch bright thing. Good talkin with you yesterday, keep movin forward, and listen to the elco !

Good talking to you too man! I did find some pics of OG '67 two tones and you're right about the window frames and the A pillars. I still think I'm going to white them tho. On one hand I'd like to stick to '67 only stuff, but on the other it's pretty custom already so I think I'll go with what I think looks cool, just like you said. The seam sealer is finally pretty hard now. The very bottom of the vertical drip rails is still kinda soft but it'll firm up. I wasn't trying to sand the primer on there but was trying to block down as close as I could. Here and there I got too close and doinked it with the corner of the block. I touched it up and am ok with it but overall I think I could have done a better job. It wasn't until I was almost done that I really figured out how to lay the crap down nice.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

x2 on the above, except to say that all these things are formulated to work together. It's the coats after the W/G that are the concern. Wax and grease remover shouldn't be a problem, (I used PPG before Nason on Yeller, 'cause that was what was at the shop) Lots of guys are paranoid about that, but whatever works for ya. Your guide sounds good, but yeah, you gotta let that stuff dry. Glad to hear you had an easier time. Don't be po'ed about the seam sealer, you want it to stay flexible. Like Cman said, just cut it a wide berth with the block. YOu did round off one edge of your Durablocks, right? They get a bit sharp on the small details. Important tip: especially from here on in, NEVER just use your fingers and paper. You can dig finger tracks faster than you can imagine. Take a used piece of scotchbrite and fold it in thirds, wrap your DA paper around it, works great. Keep it up, you're doing good. This is the edge of the cliff where it all starts to come together and be worth it. Kind of like being out in the woods, just keep walkin', you'll get there!

Picked up the P400 today. I pulled her out for another blow (no money shot tho!) and swept out the fun-dome again. Got everything settled back in and shot a real light coat of guide on there. Wetsand tomorrow!!! Great tip on the Scotchbrite sanding block! I really need a clue on how much yella to buy so I can mix it into one batch. You used a bucket to equalize then put it back into the gallon cans??

[jlsanborn]

On a side note.......

The Boy is a TARD! I locked one shop key inside and took off to work with the other on my set. Boy needed inside to get his S10 wheels to take to school so he could peel the baldies off. I get a text "you locked me outta the shop". Next text reads "hospital". He tried to jack a window to get inside and had a little "accident". Not sure how many stitches but he goes to see a f**kin surgeon on Monday to see if he lost any tendons or nerves.