1951 Chevy / C4

[xpickup]

1972SuperCheyenne, I have a 220 volt hobart 210 MIG and a 220 volt hobart TIG. I would worry a little with the 110 volt. Maybe if you pre heat it, but I would do some test pieces and see if you break the weld or the material.


Shannon

[STOCKISH]

The HAZE is good and it seems ok. I did test some and the material bent before the weld moved but I will be riding my little boy around, not to mention all the innocent people on the road. I think I will just buy a 230 and sell the 110. Should have less to worry about then!

[xpickup]

1972SuperCheyenne, yes I think I would sell the 110 welder and buy a 220 one. Then you know you are safe. Just better piece of mind.


Shannon

[FarmerSid]

Any updates Shannon?

[xpickup]

Boy it has been a long time and I am still alive and kicking. It has been a difficult year, my parents are going through a divorce and my mother in law have passed too. But I have been still working on stuff. I finished what I had to do on Ken's 47 double duty box truck and that went home. Then made some panels for his 67 fastback Mustang. Then finally put the power windows, heat, radio, speakers, door openers w/ key fobs, and a bunch of other things in my panel truck. And now I am back to the pick up truck. I have a boat load of pictures. But it seems that I can only load 1 at at time because of there size even with photobucket. So get ready there is going to be a lot of uploads. I will start out with the battery box I made to mount on the side of the frame. It will be a drop down type that will have hatted pins that will be on the frame through holes that are slotted in the SST box. It was left over material from the box truck. So I bent it up and TIG welded it all together.

Shannon

[xpickup]

Next is the seat belt bar that fits tightly against the back of the cab. The seat is from a 1988 Chevy truck and the middle bar clears the lower section of the seat. I bent it in my roll cage bender and it is 1 5/8 for the main hoop and the center bar. Then I used 1 1/4 for the gusset tubes on the outside. It worked out really nice.


Shannon

[xpickup]

The exhaust was the next thing I worked on. I am using fender well headers. Which also have cut outs that exit through the front fenders. They are from pipes and are SST , the rest if the exhaust is 2 1/2 mandrel bent pieces from summit racing that I cut and TIG welded all together. It was fun getting them to go where I wanted. I like doing custom exhaust. The mufflers are Flowmasters. The exhaust comes together after the mufflers because of the c4 corvette rear and comes back out along the inside of the rear frame rails. The dump down right before the roll pan. I also recently did custom exhaust on money pit, my lowered dually that is my daily.

Shannon

[xpickup]

Here is the drivers side. I still have to do the cut out yet. I have to wait till I get it off the jack stands and outside to do it. I do this in a small 2 car garage. So it is very tight with all my tools in there too. I need to add on to the garage soon.


Shannon

[xpickup]

Here is a shot of the back of the exhaust from the front.


Shannon

[xpickup]

A shot from the rear of the exhaust. Everything tucked up nice a tight.


Shannon

[xpickup]

A top shot of the exhaust. I tried to use the factory sway bar that is not going to work. So I am going to make one instead. An engineer at work made front and rears for his race car and he has a spread sheet to figure the rates and lengths of the arms out. So I will figure one out like the upgraded corvettes have. So I will be able to shoe horn one in after all. I need to make one for up front too. Because that one fits just as well!

Shannon

[xpickup]

A picture of the fender exhaust cut out. I have to do the sheet metal return for around it to strengthen the fender back up. I will make SST caps at work for the ends.


Shannon

[xpickup]

Made the aluminum driveshafts for Ken's truck and my buddy Billy's truck that I did a bunch of work on too. They both have c4 rears in and I used the corvette driveshaft ends and just retubed them both. Thank god I work in a machine shop and they let me use there machines off hrs. I have done a bunch of them. Then brought them home and TIG welded them together.


Shannon

[xpickup]

Next is the fuel tank. It too is SST, it is a 25 gallon one and is baffled in the inside. I TIG welded it together and put the bungs in for the fuel outlet and return. I still have to put the fill and the sending unit in yet. I just got them and as soon as I cut them in I can mount the tank.

Shannon

[xpickup]

Top view of the tank with the top glued on.


Shannon

[xpickup]

It was great having the dash out to work behind the dash. I am using a rear hatch wiper motor from a Mercury mountaineer. I made up the rotating block for all the factory linkage. It is adjustable so the stroke and sweap can be made right. It bolts up to the factory dash mount. But I thought it moved around a little too much so I made an additional bracket to strengthen it up. Also mounted the AC and heat unit too. I installed a 1x1 tube across the firewall with short 1/2 long pieces weld on top every couple inches to run the wires through for the harness. My panel truck was a nightmare with keeping the wires up so I came up with that idea.

Shannon

[xpickup]

Next is what I have been working on for a few weeks. Ken wanted a 59-61 impala dash, of course there aren't very many of them around any more. He did find a gauge bezel. Which will be filled with auto meter gauges. So I ended up making the rest of the dash. I started with a piece of 1 1/4 conduit and mounted the gauge bezel up to it. Centered and placed it where I wanted it and tacked to the corners of the factory dash. I moved it out about an inch to get the bezel to fit the placement right. Then used 1/2 conduit for the recesses and tacked them to the other tube. Next started filling it in with sheet metal.

Shannon

[xpickup]

Next started filling it in with sheet metal. Boy do I love sheet metal work. First started at the top of the dash. Made it out of 3 separate pieces of sheet metal. The dash will be fully remove able which will be great. No more sore neck and back trying to work behind the dash. Then moved to the lower part of the dash. Had to break form the radius because it was too long for my slip roll and my buddies.


Shannon

[xpickup]

Made a plywood hammer form for the recess end corners and the outside ends. It worked out great. I did have to put some relief cut in them, then welded them up. I tacked the dash together with the MIG and finished welding everything with the TIG. Everything has a radius on it. The inside of the recesses is the inside part of a piece of conduit. As you can tell I have a few hours in it.


Shannon

[xpickup]

Here is where I am at right now. Finishing the drivers side end now. But naturally ran out of argon. But getting some tomorrow after work. Then mount the bezel to the sheet metal and the cut out the 1 1/4 tubing so the gauges will fit in. After that figure out a glove box door. Never a dull moment in my garage!


Shannon

[99 to Life]

the beast is back!!! hahah, I'v seen most your work off the site, but still some stuff I haven't seen. always impressive.

[xpickup]

99 to life, yes back at it! Only took over 2 hrs to load everything. Wish I could load more than 1 picture at a time. Photobucket didn't seem like it resized my pictures. But at least they are loaded.


Shannon

[99 to Life]

Shannon, email me your pics, I'll resize and send them back, see if that doesn't solve your problem.

[Advanced Design]

Impressive work!

[oldman3]

Shannon, glad to see you back posting. Missed seeing your great work. Sorry on the personal problems, life can kick us down sometimes...Jim